HELP! This fixed bottom bracket cup is going nowhere!
#1
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Joined: Jun 2010
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HELP! This fixed bottom bracket cup is going nowhere!
I have read some of the other posts from people trying to remove the fixed bottom bracket cup and having it stuck. This one is stuck but it is completely rounded.
Doesn't have the two flat sides to lock a spanner onto. Just two peg holes quite close together.
I'm just worried after trying so many things, filing two flat sides, etc etc, that it is fixed to the frame? Is this possible? It is an old speedwell frame.
I just want to confirm before I keep persevering that this thing is going to eventually unscrew.
Can anyone offer some advice?
Doesn't have the two flat sides to lock a spanner onto. Just two peg holes quite close together.
I'm just worried after trying so many things, filing two flat sides, etc etc, that it is fixed to the frame? Is this possible? It is an old speedwell frame.
I just want to confirm before I keep persevering that this thing is going to eventually unscrew.
Can anyone offer some advice?
#2
#8
Ride heavy metal.
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Teenage Wasteland, USA
Bikes: '74 Raleigh LTD-3, '76 Motobecane Grand Jubile, '83 Fuji TSIII (customized commuter), '10 Mercier Kilo WT (fixed obsession), '83 Bianchi Alloro, '92 Bridgestone MB-1 (project), '83 Specialized Expedition (project), '79 Peugeot UO-8 (sold)
Depends on the make and model of the frame. There are differences between English and Italian threading directions, and some Japanese-made frames will be English, some Japanese. Look for any markings on the exterior of the BB cups, as well as the spindle. I have a Fuji bike that had a Shimano 36x24t fixed cup, which is an Italian threaded model...
So look closely, take some notes, do some research before you wear yourself out cranking in the wrong direction.
Also, sometimes the cup has been installed super tight because the threads have become super gunked up, and there's only one thing that will get the cup out - a torch. If you really HAVE to get it out, perhaps as part of a repaint/restore, then break out the torch (or go to your friend who has a welding torch) and head up the cup for a couple seconds. It will cause the threads to give a little bit, allowing you to hopefully get the cup out (Source: personal experience. Worked fine for me.).
So look closely, take some notes, do some research before you wear yourself out cranking in the wrong direction.
Also, sometimes the cup has been installed super tight because the threads have become super gunked up, and there's only one thing that will get the cup out - a torch. If you really HAVE to get it out, perhaps as part of a repaint/restore, then break out the torch (or go to your friend who has a welding torch) and head up the cup for a couple seconds. It will cause the threads to give a little bit, allowing you to hopefully get the cup out (Source: personal experience. Worked fine for me.).
#10
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
And the reason it must come out is what? I used to remove the fixed cup on every bike rehab. No more. Unless the bb is toast, there is no reason to remove the fixed cup. Assuming you have to remove it, the only time I have seen a bb with the two holes like you describe is on the adjustable cup.
Can you post some pictures? Also some pictures of the adjustable cup side as well?
I use the green Parks Tool pin spanner, but only on the adjustable cup. I can't see it working on the fixed cup. No way are you going to get enough leverage with a pin spanner (IMHO). It almost sounds like the PO put an adjustable cup on the wrong side.
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=25&item=SPA-1
Can you post some pictures? Also some pictures of the adjustable cup side as well?
I use the green Parks Tool pin spanner, but only on the adjustable cup. I can't see it working on the fixed cup. No way are you going to get enough leverage with a pin spanner (IMHO). It almost sounds like the PO put an adjustable cup on the wrong side.
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=25&item=SPA-1
Last edited by wrk101; 06-11-10 at 01:52 PM.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
#13
I use the home made tool above and an 18" breaker bar. I've never used penetrating oil or heat. I set the bike on its tires and stand on the end of the breaker bar. That's over 300 ft lbs of torque. More if I bounce. It never fails.
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