Aero levers brake cable replacement
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Aero levers brake cable replacement
Hi all, I'm thinking of replacing the brake cables on my late 80s road bike equipped with aero levers. I'm wondering if it is possible to route the new cable in without removing the bar tape, cable housing and/or the brake levers themselves? I've searched the net and this forum but couldn't find anything that addresses my question. Any input is appreciated! Thanks.
Last edited by spymaster; 06-21-10 at 09:00 AM.
#2
Bianchi Goddess


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,907
Likes: 4,151
From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
OMG never ever blog before coffee!! *blushing*
I totally misread this. I though he was replacing the levers OMG I feel soo blonde.
I totally misread this. I though he was replacing the levers OMG I feel soo blonde.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Last edited by Bianchigirll; 06-21-10 at 06:14 AM. Reason: totally bogous information was given.
#4
I've had the best luck as follows:
1. Remove old cable.
2. Unscrew the lever from the handlebar band clamp. Usually this is by means of an allen bolt.
3. Thread the new cable through the lever, then through the cable housing. Don't attach to the brake caliper yet.
4. Carefully re-attach the lever.
5. Attach cable to caliper, adjust, clip, finish cable end.
1. Remove old cable.
2. Unscrew the lever from the handlebar band clamp. Usually this is by means of an allen bolt.
3. Thread the new cable through the lever, then through the cable housing. Don't attach to the brake caliper yet.
4. Carefully re-attach the lever.
5. Attach cable to caliper, adjust, clip, finish cable end.
#7
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Thanks all for your response. I'll give it a try and hope for the best.
Sorry for the confusion guys. Now that I read my original sentence again it really was badly worded. Suggestion taken and post edited.
Sorry for the confusion guys. Now that I read my original sentence again it really was badly worded. Suggestion taken and post edited.
Yes, in fact I've never had any problems doing this. Use jb's tips if required, but I usually don't have to.
(And FYI, your initial sentence will be much easier to understand if you add a word like "equipped" between bike and with. The improper reference confuses your intent. I had to re-read it a couple of times.)
(And FYI, your initial sentence will be much easier to understand if you add a word like "equipped" between bike and with. The improper reference confuses your intent. I had to re-read it a couple of times.)
#8
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
I've had the best luck as follows:
1. Remove old cable.
2. Unscrew the lever from the handlebar band clamp. Usually this is by means of an allen bolt.
3. Thread the new cable through the lever, then through the cable housing. Don't attach to the brake caliper yet.
4. Carefully re-attach the lever.
5. Attach cable to caliper, adjust, clip, finish cable end.
1. Remove old cable.
2. Unscrew the lever from the handlebar band clamp. Usually this is by means of an allen bolt.
3. Thread the new cable through the lever, then through the cable housing. Don't attach to the brake caliper yet.
4. Carefully re-attach the lever.
5. Attach cable to caliper, adjust, clip, finish cable end.
#10
Bianchi Goddess


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,907
Likes: 4,151
From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
now that I am awake and recovered from my embarassment, I normally had good luck just putting new cables in. most newer levers should't give you much trouble. the oddball early DiaCompe or Modolo may be tricky.
just being nosey here why change them?
just being nosey here why change them?
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#11
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,717
Likes: 4,122
From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
I recently replaced some brake cables as you are describing without any difficulty. I recommend applying a bit of lube to the new brake cable before you insert it into the housing. And good lighting helps, too, as you should be able to see the hole in the housing through the brake lever.
__________________
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#14
www.theheadbadge.com



Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 29,015
Likes: 5,512
From: Southern Florida
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
#16
Banned.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Likes: 1,463
I don't aim well enough to route the new cable right into the housing, through the attached lever body.
However....
I simply roll the hood back from the bar, unbolt the lever body, and pull it off. I route the cable through the body, then into the cable housing, and on to the end of the rainbow to the caliper. Then I pull it and reattach the lever body, roll back the hood, and then tighten and adjust the cable.
5 minutes.
However....
I simply roll the hood back from the bar, unbolt the lever body, and pull it off. I route the cable through the body, then into the cable housing, and on to the end of the rainbow to the caliper. Then I pull it and reattach the lever body, roll back the hood, and then tighten and adjust the cable.
5 minutes.
#17
Buh'wah?!

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 2
From: Charlottesville VA
Bikes: 2014 Giant Trance
It's actually not a bad idea to unwrap your bars and install the cables that way. Doesn't take too long, and as long as your tape doesn't have adhesive on the back it's effortless. Besides, you can get it nice and tight around the bars again and have good strong brakes and a nicer aesthetic to your bars which likely had sagging bar tape you weren't aware of.
-Gene-
-Gene-
#18
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Thanks again everyone for more input. Last night I did it successfully without removing the tape or lever. With a flash light, I was able to see the 'hole' into which the cables go. It was uneventful with the back cable . The front cable however was already cut short (in hindsight dumb move) and there was one spot in the housing where I had to use a bit of force to push the cable through. It came out with two strands slightly 'pushed back' at the end that they bulged out a bit in the braiding pattern for about 3 inches back. Good thing steel strands hold their shape well and I was actually able to lift and unwind the strands a few inches back and wind them on again so they fall back in nice and smooth.
The old cables were probably as old as the bike and although they were not rusted, I figured they were cheap and simple enough to be replaced as part of my rehab work. The housings and Benotto-like bar tape are still clean and in perfect shape so I want to get at least another season out of them with my light riding.
#19
The thing is, that unless there was a mishap, chances are that when you need new cables, you need new bar tape (and tires and some other things.) I routinely do maintainance on my bikes on certain mileage intervals and change everything at once. I find it more simple this way rather than doing it piece by piece (and the bike gets off circulation only for part of a single day)
#20
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
The thing is, that unless there was a mishap, chances are that when you need new cables, you need new bar tape (and tires and some other things.) I routinely do maintainance on my bikes on certain mileage intervals and change everything at once. I find it more simple this way rather than doing it piece by piece (and the bike gets off circulation only for part of a single day)
Last edited by spymaster; 06-22-10 at 12:14 PM.
#21
Spin Forest! Spin!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,956
Likes: 19
From: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
Bianchigirl beat me to it for the caveat regarding some Dia Compe aero levers. These used a hemispherical ferrule for a cable housing stop in the back of the lever. If you're not precise in pushing the cable end through the hole, you can dislodge the ferrule and it drops into the lever. And thus unwrapping the tape and body removal follows. @$#$^@#$.
Congrats on your success. Next time, if you're pushing the cable through unlined housing (which sounds like what happened), dab the end with a little crazy glue. Keeps the strands tight while negotiating tight bends.
Congrats on your success. Next time, if you're pushing the cable through unlined housing (which sounds like what happened), dab the end with a little crazy glue. Keeps the strands tight while negotiating tight bends.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dabbling Runner
Bicycle Mechanics
10
01-26-13 09:24 AM
jl7676
Bicycle Mechanics
4
12-11-10 03:27 PM









