I have a problem - after a messy OA bath left residue on my Voyageur frame, I cleaned it off with WD-40 and some scotchbrite, only to find much of the paint had dulled. Rubbing compound and Scratch-X both didn't seem to do anything. So, I decided I'd clear coat it, and while I was at it, I figured I'd replace two of the decals that were messed up. So now, I have decals and a rough exposed paint job....

Problem: I leave for a bike camping trip in Death Valley in exactly 1 week. I was hoping to enamel clear-coat, then assemble my bike in the next 5 days, but from what I hear, enamel clear coats take weeks to cure, and lacquer seems to lift other paints and flake off more easily.

Should I just assemble the bike without clear-coat and take it with me, then break it down when I get back, or is there a way to clear coat it so I don't have to tear the thing apart again when I return?

(This whole DIY paint business is a mess. I think if I ever do another paint job, I'm getting the thing done professionally or powdercoated.)

I'm not sure clear coating the bike is really a solution at all. How about some pictures? I wouldn't have used a scotch-brite pad on the paint at all.

Ignorance, combined with haste, is a sure fire way to screw up a paint job. Put the bike together, go for your ride and plan you paint job. Though you might laugh, I paint many of my bicycles with a can of Rustoleum and a paint brush. The results are not bad and this procedure is documented on MY "TEN SPEEDS". I am not suggesting that you follow the Hand Painting Bicycle Procedure, but it might give you a better idea of what to do.



Hope this is a help.

As long as bare steel isn't showing I don't see the issue. Even if it is, all you'd have is a few areas with surface rust dust. If you're really planning on a paint job then you'll be stripping it all down and going through a several week process of prep, paint and build. Go on your trip and do the paint the right way later.
If you're really worried then hit any bare spots with nail polish.

Have you applied the decals already? If not, I'd do as Randy suggested and postpone finishing the paint job. I'm actually glad my Voyaguer had a few bad rust spots. It made my decision to powder coat it and easy one and I'm very happy with the results.

This Legnano is one of my favorite builds I've seen on this forum. I absolutely love the color, the matching fenders and the handlebars. Top notch, Randy!

Are those Nitto Promenade bars with no rise?

If the original paint it is still there.... go to the car paint shop and get yourself 2 cans of U-POL #1 clear coat. That's like car clear coat in a can, will take less than a day to dry. It is ready for you to touch after 15 to 30 minutes. Obviously if the weather is bad just put it under some UV light or heat (70 degrees will do).

Advice, rattle the can like for 10 minutes and put it in a glass with hot water so the can heat a little bit, (the paint will flow better this way specially in the winter) then rattle it again, then put it the hot water again like 10 minutes... then go and paint. (follow the instructions because it is easy to get orange peel ok?, do a test 1st so you could figure it out ok?), 1 light coat.. let it seat... then a wet coat... done.

This thing is super toxic and super sticky so get a mask or something and be careful with your fingers or you will ruin the job. When all is done you will have a super shiny clear coat.

Good luck.

I just took a pic, and the difference isn't as visible as I had thought. It shows a bit more in person, but isn't very clear in the pic.

I think this might be the way to go. I'm not planning to repaint the bike at all; the original paint is still there. I just wanted to hit it with a can of clear coat to protect decals and the original paint.

And Randy, did you paint that Legnano yourself? That's a very serious tutorial - thanks.

This is interesting - so I could forseeably spray the bike one night, then build it the next? Does it need time to cure?

I doubt he will get much rust from a trip to Death Valley :-)

I stumble onto these alloy handlebars now and again. I put them aside every time I do. The bars are original issue to some Canadian made Sekine bikes and I get lots of Sekines where I live.

Have a peek at the same bars on a Single Speed Sekine I built up a year, or so, ago. I should add that the alloy fenders, about the best I have run across, are also mid seventies Sekine issue components. I have a few sets of those guys also. And, guess what..?

The fenders on the Legnano are Sekines, panited up with a bit of pin striping.

Almost all clearcoats require cure time, usually somewhere from 2 weeks to a month to fully cure. If you build up the bike too soon after clearcoating and have several clamp-on components (front derailleur, downtube shifters/cable stop, etc), you can cause the finish to crack and flake.

That said, if you're going to Death Valley you probably aren't going to need to worry about your bike's finish too much. ...Well, at least as far as it pertains to rain or moisture. I'd just as soon build it up and ride it for the Death Valley tour, then clear coat it when you're done and have the time.

Thanks all for the wise advice. I've decided to just wax the frame for now, then clear coat it with some serious stuff when I get back.

Strengthwise, can 4 coats of Duplicolor enamel compare to U-Pol #1 (or any other two part clear)?