Need quick Miyata identification.
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 29
From: Madison, WI
Need quick Miyata identification.
https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/2421762266.html
Guy emailed me back. It's mine tomorrow morning if I want it, but I don't know what it is. I just know I keep reading all the time how great Miyatas are so I emailed the guy.
Guy emailed me back. It's mine tomorrow morning if I want it, but I don't know what it is. I just know I keep reading all the time how great Miyatas are so I emailed the guy.
#3
You can browse the catalogs to find the exact model. its a little time consuming but well worth the effort as you can get geometry and exact specs.
https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/2007/1...alog-1982.html
Might also be a quick cross or something but i suspect that suburban grind is correct.
https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/2007/1...alog-1982.html
Might also be a quick cross or something but i suspect that suburban grind is correct.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,954
Likes: 388
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
I'm guessing but I would say either a 210 or a 310 and I'm leaning towards a 84 210. It won't be a higher model then a 310. Both the 210 and the 310 use a real thin sized black on the 310 and white on the 210 decal and those didn't last as long as the higher end that used a wider more pronounced gold with black decal. Also the 210 crank looks just like the crank on yours. And the freewheel had the plastic "guard" between first gear and the spokes. So is $75 worth it, it seems high to me, this was a entry level bike back in the day and thus is substantially heavier then their higher end models, the weight for the 210 was around 27 pounds while their Team bikes were around 21 pounds-their lightest and most expensive. Also the bike looks rough, but pics can't show what I need to see so I may not be seeing it correctly, it may look worse! If it is as rough as it looks and probably rougher I would pass.
There are tons of bikes out there that sit in people attics, basements and garage's that got rode for maybe 500 miles then put in storage. Then one day in a fit of cleaning they decide to sell it. I've gotten all my used bikes in almost new condition, one was in new condition, for very low cost and they were all mid to upper mid level bikes. My upper end bikes I purchased new, those high end older bikes are all but impossible to find cheap. Just be patient and wait. Keep checking Craigs list frequently because when a good bike comes up it's usually gone within an hour of posting. Also check garage sales, but there too their the first thing to get bought; and check GoodWill type of stores frequently. There are people that shop the stores, garage sales and Craigslist for the sole purpose of buying a good bike cheap and reselling for a lot more money after cleaning and waxing it on E-bay.
There are tons of bikes out there that sit in people attics, basements and garage's that got rode for maybe 500 miles then put in storage. Then one day in a fit of cleaning they decide to sell it. I've gotten all my used bikes in almost new condition, one was in new condition, for very low cost and they were all mid to upper mid level bikes. My upper end bikes I purchased new, those high end older bikes are all but impossible to find cheap. Just be patient and wait. Keep checking Craigs list frequently because when a good bike comes up it's usually gone within an hour of posting. Also check garage sales, but there too their the first thing to get bought; and check GoodWill type of stores frequently. There are people that shop the stores, garage sales and Craigslist for the sole purpose of buying a good bike cheap and reselling for a lot more money after cleaning and waxing it on E-bay.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,047
Likes: 2,122
From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-1977 Univega Grand Rally, S LTD, 1973 Sears Free Spirit 531, 197? FW Evans
With cantilever brakes, it isn't a 310. For 1984, the 210 also had side pull brakes, cantilevers came later. It also looks like it could be a 1986 210, which has specs similar to the 1984 610. 27 pounds for a touring bike isn't bad, the frame is thicker to support the extra weight of the bags. I'd say it's worth $75, unless it looks really bad in person. You could build it into a pretty nice bike.
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img061.jpg
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img105.jpg
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img061.jpg
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img105.jpg
#8
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
With canti brakes, assuming the frame does not have any significant damage, its a reasonable deal. Note, it is only a good deal if you have the time/tools/aptitude/interest/parts to rehab this bike. If you don't, PASS. It will cost more to rehab than the finished product is worth.
Probably the only reason it is still around is that it needs a lot of work. Nothing too crazy, but most scoopers want a bike that is ready to ride (or at least appears ready to ride), that they can wash off and sell for 2X. For buyers with the expertise and interest, project bikes can make good deals due to a lot less competition.
+1 27 pounds is not bad for a touring bike. Look at what the top end touring bikes weighed, like the Miyata 1000. I've got a 1987 Miyata 215 touring bike, weighs in at 26.8 pounds. The next step up, 615, weighs 26.6 pounds, and the top of the line 1000 also weighs 26.6 pounds. So you are talking a measly 0.2 pounds difference in weight (3 ounces). If you can tell the difference, my hat is off to you.
+1 If you are surfing C/L looking for a deal, you have to move fast, lightning fast. There are too many others out there watching, ready and able to pounce on deals. And forget posting "Is this a great deal?" on those bikes. They will be gone before you get an answer. I got scooped on two last week, I called within 15 minutes of the postings, both were gone. That's how C/L works.
Educate yourself on how to spot a good deal, and then "Grab first, study later."
+1 Hard to find the higher end vintage stuff, in your size, unless you are very aggressively looking. Most bikes sold back then were the lower end models. Supply and demand rules.
+1 To below: Specs changed every year. Early 1980s 210s were really low end, by the late 1980s they were pretty good. And its all about the condition of the frame and your abilities.
Be careful with a bike that has been on a trainer for two years. I often find significant rust on such bikes.
Probably the only reason it is still around is that it needs a lot of work. Nothing too crazy, but most scoopers want a bike that is ready to ride (or at least appears ready to ride), that they can wash off and sell for 2X. For buyers with the expertise and interest, project bikes can make good deals due to a lot less competition.
+1 27 pounds is not bad for a touring bike. Look at what the top end touring bikes weighed, like the Miyata 1000. I've got a 1987 Miyata 215 touring bike, weighs in at 26.8 pounds. The next step up, 615, weighs 26.6 pounds, and the top of the line 1000 also weighs 26.6 pounds. So you are talking a measly 0.2 pounds difference in weight (3 ounces). If you can tell the difference, my hat is off to you.
+1 If you are surfing C/L looking for a deal, you have to move fast, lightning fast. There are too many others out there watching, ready and able to pounce on deals. And forget posting "Is this a great deal?" on those bikes. They will be gone before you get an answer. I got scooped on two last week, I called within 15 minutes of the postings, both were gone. That's how C/L works.
Educate yourself on how to spot a good deal, and then "Grab first, study later."
+1 Hard to find the higher end vintage stuff, in your size, unless you are very aggressively looking. Most bikes sold back then were the lower end models. Supply and demand rules.
+1 To below: Specs changed every year. Early 1980s 210s were really low end, by the late 1980s they were pretty good. And its all about the condition of the frame and your abilities.
Be careful with a bike that has been on a trainer for two years. I often find significant rust on such bikes.
Last edited by wrk101; 06-05-11 at 06:36 AM.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,954
Likes: 388
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
I'm changing the year to an 85 210 because I could not see the canti's in the picture on my monitor. The bike then supposedly weighed 30 pounds and it was their low end touring bike. I still think it's too high because in the pics I'm looking at it looks rough. It would cost more then the bike is worth to fix it and the paint would still look bad. That's just my opinion based on kind of medium dark photos on my monitor. It I saw it in person I could change my mind...or maybe not.
By the way, take a look at these catalogs: https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/
By the way, take a look at these catalogs: https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TheWiseFool
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
8
06-16-14 07:52 PM
KogaMiyata
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
6
07-03-13 03:28 AM






