Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#5901
Senior Member
Update:
So I get a message from the wife of the seller asking if I'm still going to purchase the bike today. I respond yes as long as the paint and frame are in good condition. Soon after I receive these pics:
I ask her to call me and I explained very truthfully what my plans were for the bike. With the rust and possible cable guide issues I told her I would not be interested as it would cost much more than the bike is worth to make it right. She asked if I would make an offer and I told her I didn't want to offend her husband who had purchased the bike as a project that never happened. She said she was going to talk to her husband and get back to me with a rock bottom price - if he had one. So that's where we are at. Always amazes me how people won't just be up front and take the appropriate pictures to tell the whole story. markwesti send me $500 - I may need it
What is your take on the rust issues ? At this point it would be powder coat ($120) and new decals or nothing
Those downtube shifter cable stops are pretty cool - I've never seen them before. Anyone know anything about them ?
So I get a message from the wife of the seller asking if I'm still going to purchase the bike today. I respond yes as long as the paint and frame are in good condition. Soon after I receive these pics:
I ask her to call me and I explained very truthfully what my plans were for the bike. With the rust and possible cable guide issues I told her I would not be interested as it would cost much more than the bike is worth to make it right. She asked if I would make an offer and I told her I didn't want to offend her husband who had purchased the bike as a project that never happened. She said she was going to talk to her husband and get back to me with a rock bottom price - if he had one. So that's where we are at. Always amazes me how people won't just be up front and take the appropriate pictures to tell the whole story. markwesti send me $500 - I may need it
What is your take on the rust issues ? At this point it would be powder coat ($120) and new decals or nothing
Those downtube shifter cable stops are pretty cool - I've never seen them before. Anyone know anything about them ?
Last edited by sdn40; 01-14-19 at 02:41 PM.
#5902
Senior Member
Update:
So I get a message from the wife of the seller asking if I'm still going to purchase the bike today. I respond yes as long as the paint and frame are in good condition. Soon after I receive these pics:
I ask her to call me and I explained very truthfully what my plans were for the bike. With the rust and possible cable guide issues I told her I would not be interested as it would cost much more than the bike is worth to make it right. She asked if I would make an offer and I told her I didn't want to offend her husband who had purchased the bike as a project that never happened. She said she was going to talk to her husband and get back to me with a rock bottom price - if he had one. So that's where we are at. Always amazes me how people won't just be up front and take the appropriate pictures to tell the whole story. markwesti send me $500 - I may need it
What is your take on the rust issues ? At this point it would be powder coat ($120) and new decals or nothing
Those downtube shifter cable stops are pretty cool - I've never seen them before. Anyone know anything about them ?
So I get a message from the wife of the seller asking if I'm still going to purchase the bike today. I respond yes as long as the paint and frame are in good condition. Soon after I receive these pics:
I ask her to call me and I explained very truthfully what my plans were for the bike. With the rust and possible cable guide issues I told her I would not be interested as it would cost much more than the bike is worth to make it right. She asked if I would make an offer and I told her I didn't want to offend her husband who had purchased the bike as a project that never happened. She said she was going to talk to her husband and get back to me with a rock bottom price - if he had one. So that's where we are at. Always amazes me how people won't just be up front and take the appropriate pictures to tell the whole story. markwesti send me $500 - I may need it
What is your take on the rust issues ? At this point it would be powder coat ($120) and new decals or nothing
Those downtube shifter cable stops are pretty cool - I've never seen them before. Anyone know anything about them ?
#5903
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Yeah, I'd want detailed pix of the top tube before buying any steel bike set up for triathlons and time trials. Lotta sweat and salty electrolyte water is gonna hit that top tube and rust if the owner wasn't meticulous about wipe downs.
The tube integrity is probably fine. But it'll take some work to make it presentable. The price would need to be really low to tempt me, since I'm not sure I'd use the aero bars. Although I might swap the bar end shifters to the drop bar, or maybe even convert to a faux-path racer configuration with flipped albatross or North Roads bars (one of my maybe-someday wishlist projects).
And since I have in mind a faux-path racer, a frame with a little rust might not be too bad if it hasn't affected the integrity. I'd paint it black anyway, maybe with some subtle decals or lining of my own, rather than worry about keeping the Ironman originals.
Despite my nitpicking about Suntour GPX Accu***** indexing, the group is actually really good. Love the brakes, the aero profile and subtle steely blue just looks spiffy. I like the looks of the entire group. But it's really persnickety about chains, freewheels and setup to get reliable index shifting (which I would have known if I'd actually read the Suntour service manual that I downloaded a year or so ago -- it's very specific about how picky the Accushift stuff can be and what components it prefers). I finally got mine dialed in with a SunRace 13-25 freewheel (smoother shifting and quieter than the original Suntour Alpha 13-24), and KMC Z51 chain (Z72 was good too, although the mushroom head rivets seemed to loosen up a bit and get noisy with wear). Loosening the cable/housing loop around the rear derailleur helped. When I replaced the RD cable/housing I added about 1/2" or so over the original length and it seemed to help with index shifting.
The tube integrity is probably fine. But it'll take some work to make it presentable. The price would need to be really low to tempt me, since I'm not sure I'd use the aero bars. Although I might swap the bar end shifters to the drop bar, or maybe even convert to a faux-path racer configuration with flipped albatross or North Roads bars (one of my maybe-someday wishlist projects).
And since I have in mind a faux-path racer, a frame with a little rust might not be too bad if it hasn't affected the integrity. I'd paint it black anyway, maybe with some subtle decals or lining of my own, rather than worry about keeping the Ironman originals.
Despite my nitpicking about Suntour GPX Accu***** indexing, the group is actually really good. Love the brakes, the aero profile and subtle steely blue just looks spiffy. I like the looks of the entire group. But it's really persnickety about chains, freewheels and setup to get reliable index shifting (which I would have known if I'd actually read the Suntour service manual that I downloaded a year or so ago -- it's very specific about how picky the Accushift stuff can be and what components it prefers). I finally got mine dialed in with a SunRace 13-25 freewheel (smoother shifting and quieter than the original Suntour Alpha 13-24), and KMC Z51 chain (Z72 was good too, although the mushroom head rivets seemed to loosen up a bit and get noisy with wear). Loosening the cable/housing loop around the rear derailleur helped. When I replaced the RD cable/housing I added about 1/2" or so over the original length and it seemed to help with index shifting.
#5904
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Here is the issue with paint issues. If you ride it it will get scratches and wear marks. So you take this bike and have it repainted. Six months down the road, it will have some blemishes somewhere. This one looks like a good rider. Apply some rust stopping primer on the problem areas. Follow that with some clear protection like fingernail polish. Then, don't worry about until you decide to part with it. Repaint it if you are going to part with it.
#5905
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Less then a C note for that bike ? Well OK no more joking around from me , I can get a little irritating you can ask mswesti she just told me to get out of the house and it's raining . @sdn40 maybe this just isn't the right one , I take it it's your size 58 ? Really if you'r not into the tri stuff and the crank set is not doing it for you (not my first choice either) , I could see this bike getting a little expensive . But on the other hand the bike is in your area so no shipping and that top tube rust does not look to bad I would fix it as per [MENTION=365143]fleslider and @saypat method but first carefully sand the spots do the primer and then a few coats of gloss black with a artist brush , I think you would be pleased . Maybe you could learn to love the tri set up , and just get new cables fix , the paint ....???
Last edited by markwesti; 01-14-19 at 05:13 PM.
#5906
Senior Member
Appreciate all the input guys. It was a bit of a downer, even though I had an inkling or two. One of the issues at work here is geography. I've bought mint Trek 1400's for $125. Cannondales for the same. Vintage rust free Treks are currently at $100. I bought a CAAD 9 for my daughter for $200. So buying this for $100 and dealing with the rust issues along with the tri setup just doesn't work for me. Granted this is an Ironman, but I think you get the idea.
One thing we know in Wisconsin is that rust never sleeps, and you can tell from some of the pics there are rust trails under the paint (top tube and head lug) and clues that a scotchbrite pad may have found it's way to the paint. In some of the hotbeds of cycling, some would still consider this a bargain. It's just not in my experience. I'm at the stage in my life where I don't really want to ride a "beater" and part of the allure for me was to tear it down and build it back up. Unfortunately, that would now have to include a powdercoat and decals, which I am still mulling over. I know some think it's good to go with a few touch ups. That's just not me. I'll sleep on it. I don't think it's going anywhere. It's been listed for over a year.
One thing we know in Wisconsin is that rust never sleeps, and you can tell from some of the pics there are rust trails under the paint (top tube and head lug) and clues that a scotchbrite pad may have found it's way to the paint. In some of the hotbeds of cycling, some would still consider this a bargain. It's just not in my experience. I'm at the stage in my life where I don't really want to ride a "beater" and part of the allure for me was to tear it down and build it back up. Unfortunately, that would now have to include a powdercoat and decals, which I am still mulling over. I know some think it's good to go with a few touch ups. That's just not me. I'll sleep on it. I don't think it's going anywhere. It's been listed for over a year.
Last edited by sdn40; 01-14-19 at 10:16 PM.
#5908
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#5909
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I suspect someone cut the frame because they couldn't cut the lock...
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#5911
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Looks like @texaspandj has struck with his promise to find the inside diameter and wall thickness of the Expert . Maybe he didn't like findings and gave the top tube a karate chop .
#5912
Senior Member
Looks like @texaspandj has struck with his promise to find the inside diameter and wall thickness of the Expert . Maybe he didn't like findings and gave the top tube a karate chop .
#5915
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Yeah, the top tube looks like the result of someone trying and failing to twist off a U-lock by twisting the entire bike. Then they realized cutting the frame is easier than cutting a hardened U-lock.
Shame because there aren't enough appealing parts to salvage for a complete Suntour GPX group. Looks like that bike gradually devolved from a fine Ironman into a neglected beater commuter. The intact frame was probably the most valuable part.
Shame because there aren't enough appealing parts to salvage for a complete Suntour GPX group. Looks like that bike gradually devolved from a fine Ironman into a neglected beater commuter. The intact frame was probably the most valuable part.
#5916
Senior Member
That's a good one Mark. Too bad it's not my size. I need an '85 for a straight. I'm still kicking myself for the '85 54cm you once posted, but it was gone in a few days anyway.
#5918
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My Classic was recently upgraded curtesy of RT to 7 speed. 13-28 no problem. 28mm GP 4000s no problem. I don't think the 28s slow me down and they sure are comfortable, but when I look down and see them, they feel slow.
#5920
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#5921
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I forget @fleslider what is your size ? RT over the top ! OK now , see you can keep a secret . I didn't see that one coming .
#5923
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Well while we are on a roll , (pun intended) . Here is the RT sponsored 84' Comp TA with it's new Newbaum's bar tape and super gummy Rustines . Plus I scored a set of Shimano EX 600 levers .
IMG_0189 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_0190 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_0189 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_0190 by mark westi, on Flickr
Last edited by markwesti; 01-21-19 at 03:49 PM.