Schwinn 24" Super Sports frames ride "small". The seat tube to top tube angle is I am pretty sure slacker than the Trek. Cut a pc. of cardboard to fit one and I bet it will not be the same as the other frame. I also think as mentioned earlier that the top tube center of the head tube to center of the seat tube on the Schwinn is shorter but I think more than stated. As both bikes do not most likely have the same saddle you will need a second person to assist in measuring while you are on the bike. I would get the saddle position set first, assuming the Schwinn is good. (It is at least what you are used to) Cranks at 3-9 o'clock position, plumb bob off the front face of the knee and past the foot on the pedal, take note and set the other bike up by saddle height and fore aft by your knee over the pedal relationship. with that set the same, then measure your upper pelvis bone, even placing a pc. of tape on you with a sharpie X at that point and measure the distance to the bars on both. This will get you basically to a point of understanding where the bikes differ with you set up in relation to the cranks the same. There may be variations, such as in crank length, but this is used bike territory.

If you cannot get the saddle on the Trek set up the same then it may not be for you. Or, your position on the Schwinn is "wrong" but you have adapted to it. I have seen this often. If that's the case it may not be worth moving it, tell tale signs for me that a position is "wrong" can go to riding style, big gear mashing will push a position one way often, or a tilted seat, anything beyond a few degrees off level indicates a solution to discomfort problem that should be addressed by other means.

What diameter is the handlebar? I have a 70mm Cinelli stem that is 26.0, I believe, surplus to my needs. If you need it, I'll pass it along for what I paid, which was pretty cheap (clamp bolt is not original).

[QUOTE=Bianchigirll;13242520]if your trying to make the bike fit, don't get hung up on a fancy stem to match. buy something that is reasonably priced and fits, then wrap the DA stem in a towel and same it for when and if you sell this great looking trek.

BG, thanks that seems to be the growing consensus.

If I may suggest this, stop going to your LBS for simple brake adjustments. there must be dozens of C&V guys and gals near you and perhaps you can get a lesson for the price of a sixer of Ale.

Yes understood, I've been leaving my signature off, . Conversely they did supply me with some interesting insights about this bike. It has a unique crank set. In that the Shimano engineers were attempting to gain greater efficient transfer of power from legs to the drive train? Anyway regular pedals do not fit these arms. Then there's the stem. Which mainstreetexile points out is awesome, but awesome comes at a premium, so it seems. LOL


beautiful bike but (yes I am being snarky) why the Craigslist pic? LOL
A. You don't miss a trick, yes those were the sellers pics, how did you know?
B. Reread my plea agreement, if it requires an amendment for 'wingnut' I'll plead to that too.
C. BG your snark is whole heartily welcomed. As it is of all the C&V posters.

if the tape is for the brake caliper it may be a tad high
Yes there is tape on the downtube in the pic but not present when purchased.

a DA seat post too? somebody loved this baby
Yes, yes someone did love this one. Hence my really trying to be a good steward, (I don't know of a better way to express it). Fit or no fit I won't be the guy parting this one out. Per the CL seller, who BTW didn't look like this bike fit at all. The original owner was an employee of Trek.

That is very generous, thanks! The Cinelli bars require a 26.0 clamp on the the stem. Thanks again.

The seat tube to top tube angle is I am pretty sure slacker than the Trek.
Per buldogge, the STA on the Trek is 73.5 deg. A very rough measurement of the SS comes in at 73 deg STA.

I also think as mentioned earlier that the top tube center of the head tube to center of the seat tube on the Schwinn is shorter but I think more than stated.
You're correct, the Trek is 57.5cm, the SS is 56.5cm.

Or, your position on the Schwinn is "wrong" but you have adapted to it.

This could very well be true, hence the trip to the LBS too. The stem on the SS is raised quite a bit. The drop (very bottom) of the bars is even with the top tube. I'll get pics of both bikes like chuckk recommended.

tell tale signs for me that a position is "wrong" can go to riding style, big gear mashing will push a position one way often, or a tilted seat, anything beyond a few degrees off level indicates a solution to discomfort problem that should be addressed by other means.

The SS is a daily commuter. I'm in the habit of starting up @ 61 GI, while standing. Once my butt hits the saddle, its shift to 67 GI. Get that spun up, shift to 74 GI then 83 GI. Hands most comfortable in the drops. A pic'll be worth 1k of me trying to splain it.

jeepr: Thank you, your insight is spot on. Longer rides do cause numbness in my hands (over fifty miles) on the SS. The Trek was specifically purchased for the over 30 mile rides. With all information gleaned from this, the Trek will get every consideration before sending it on it's way. Thanks again!

Maybe this works...

I would get a zero offset post (say Thomson) and center/level the saddle. Play with the setback from there. Check your position in relation to the bars and try rail position and saddle height (from BB center) until you get the best results. Mess with the bar-saddle position on the flat (easy in ChiTown) and the bb-saddle on incline efforts.

Good luck...

A few things can be seen from the images. Your Super Sport is set up more like a Rivendell than a typical road bike. I would not be able to tolerate that saddle tilt, some of it's adjustment may come from the high handlebar position. I find it interesting that you comment that on the Schwinn your hands can go numb, at least for how the bike is set up in the photographs.

I missed that the Trek has Dyna-Drive pedals. I have one bike with that crank/pedal set. It made setting up the position a bit of a trick, compared to measure-copy of my other bikes. To get the advantage out of those pedals you need cleated cycling shoes with as thin/stiff a sole and cleat as possible. The whole concept was to get the ball of your foot close to the pedal rotation center. For reference Alexi Grewal used that type of crank to win the '84 Olympic road race. You need straps for these pedals. They cause you to pedal a bit differently, not bad or good, just different. The ball of your foot has to be right at the pedal rotation center in plan view, the toe clips adjust so that can happen as long as you have typical sized feet. Finding alternate sized toe clips for these pedals is a lucky or hopeless search, they were made.

Shimano, way back by the way suggested one use a frame 2 cm smaller than what they would normally ride with these pedals at work. They lower your center of gravity just a bit too. And "raise" the top tube the same amount, when compared to how you have the Schwinn set up, a good thing.

From the diversity of the two bikes, I would consider searching for a shop that has a competent guy who can fit you to the Trek, and comment on the Schwinn.
An "off-bike" set of eyes I think is needed here.

Should you not like the Dyna Drive pedals, Shimano did make an adapter to insert and have typical 9/16" pedal holes.

I'd agree that you need to learn some basic mechanics - a big part of cycling, IMO, is understanding how it works. If you are "pounding asphalt" and don't understand something simple like brake adjustment you might end up pounding your head on the asphalt waiting for your ride. You don't need to adjust the BB or anything, but basic mechanical skills will serve you well.

Nice grab on the Trek though. I secOnd figuring out your fit before you spend money on bling. You can make it fit and then invest your pennies in cool pieces when you know what you need. I'd also sell the crankset and get something else.

The two bikes are clearly different sizes. I have owned both, in the same sizes. The Schwinn is a 24" in name only. The extended seat lug is what makes it a 24" frame. Schwinn measured center to top. It is really on par w/ a 56cm. The Trek is a true 24" and will feel bigger because it is bigger. The Schwinn has a top tube length of 56cm (IIRC) and I know the Trek has a top tube length of 58cm.

Looking at how the Schwinn is set-up, it is more than likely on the small side for you. BTW, how tall are you? I am 6'1" and ride 60cm frames, FWIW. My advice is to start riding the Trek as is. Making minor adjustments as you ride it. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, adjusting stem height, handlebar rotation and saddle height all involve loosening & tightening one bolt per item. You can do that without any help.

In addition, the Schwinn has randoneurring handle bars on it which sweep up & back towards the rider. The Trek has traditional drop bars. They will always feel farther away than the Rando bars, because the reach is different.

If the Trek is truly the right size (kinda looks like it fromt the pics) it is where you should focus your attention going forward. No disrespect intended but it is a better bike in most every aspect and will do almost everything better than the SS. I know folks here love the fillet brazed Schwinn's but if you are actually going to ride it, the Trek is a better bike.

Yes Bianchigirll came to the same conclusion. Thanks custermustache I will begin moving in that direction.


[/QUOTE]I'd also sell the crankset and get something else.[/QUOTE]

A decision about the Dyna Drive crankset could be made once it's 'keeper' status is determined, right? Or does it play substantially into initial fit? As repenchage states it compounds setup, so take it out of the equation early?

Snorkel has been purchased, short periscope is on back order!

Thanks fender1:

The Schwinn is a 24" in name only. The Trek is a true 24" and will feel bigger because it is bigger.
True and succinctly stated, honestly that's what it feels like too.

how tall are you?
I'm probably height challenged for a 60cm bike, 5' 11" and change.
That's the nut right there, this bikes to big for me?

To get it to go it will require the following and then some:
Zero offset seat post, (stashing the DA it comes with).
Taller stem with appropriate extension, (stashing the DA it comes with).
Possibly swap conventional handlebars for Rando bars.
Possibly swap out Dyna-Drive crank/pedal set,(stashing the DA it comes with).


if you are actually going to ride it, the Trek is a better bike.
Yes, wholly agree with you. It wouldn't become the commuter.

As Biancigirll noted someone loved this Trek. I want to express my gratitude to all who've contributed to my education.