Mid '50s Campagnolo
#1
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Chattanooga
Bikes: '93 Bridgestone RB-1, '91 Specialized Allez Epic, '85 Raleigh Team Pro, '78 Andre Bertin, early '90s F. Moser Leader AX , '85 Centurion Equipe, '98 Litespeed Tuscany, '89 Klein Quantum, '80 Nishiki Superbe, '83 Peckham, '84 Fuji Opus III
Mid '50s Campagnolo
I've just acquired a 1955-56 Ideor Asso frame/fork w/ assorted original, mostly Campy, parts.
Present is a first generation Record headset, first generation Gran Sport pedals, an early iteration of Gran Sport front and rear derailleur, DT GS shifters, a Magistroni BB
and a Stronglight Competition 57 double crank set w/correct 49/46 chain rings. A few bits more ........
Low miles on all. Little wear. The passage of time has been the chief agent of change. Negligible corrosion/rust, no abuse or damage, generally excellent cosmetic, mechanical
and operating condition.
My question has to do with cleaning these parts.
I wonder if there's any reason to be concerned about how the value of any or all of these might be affected by how I handle the cleaning of them.
For instance, I have probably would have no qualms about thoroughly cleaning and polishing the headset or the pedals. Or, the crank. The derailleurs are another matter. I've seen
some examples for sale at hefty prices where cleaning was controlled, managed it seemed. Dust, dirt and grease evidence remained. No polishing, of course.
How does one determine how thoroughly to clean, in effect sanitizing part of a component's "biography" .
So, clean to the bone on everything? Polish? On selected parts? Which ones? Why?
Pics soon.
Thanks.
Julian
Present is a first generation Record headset, first generation Gran Sport pedals, an early iteration of Gran Sport front and rear derailleur, DT GS shifters, a Magistroni BB
and a Stronglight Competition 57 double crank set w/correct 49/46 chain rings. A few bits more ........
Low miles on all. Little wear. The passage of time has been the chief agent of change. Negligible corrosion/rust, no abuse or damage, generally excellent cosmetic, mechanical
and operating condition.
My question has to do with cleaning these parts.
I wonder if there's any reason to be concerned about how the value of any or all of these might be affected by how I handle the cleaning of them.
For instance, I have probably would have no qualms about thoroughly cleaning and polishing the headset or the pedals. Or, the crank. The derailleurs are another matter. I've seen
some examples for sale at hefty prices where cleaning was controlled, managed it seemed. Dust, dirt and grease evidence remained. No polishing, of course.
How does one determine how thoroughly to clean, in effect sanitizing part of a component's "biography" .
So, clean to the bone on everything? Polish? On selected parts? Which ones? Why?
Pics soon.
Thanks.
Julian
Last edited by afilado; 02-07-12 at 01:07 AM.
#2
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Sacramento, CA
Bikes: '64 Bianchi CDM, '62ish Altenburger Cinelli Mod B, '63-64 Cinelli SC, 69 Rene Herse Competition, '71 Gitane SC, '73 Cinelli SC, '73-74 Colnago Super,, '73-74 Cinelli SC, '78ish counterfeit Confente, '82 Medici Gran Turismo, '67ish Mondia Speciale
I think that soaking in oil and then gently cleaning with either a brass or plastic bristled brush is pretty harmless.
Photos, please!
Photos, please!
#3
I use a light oil/solvent like WD-40 and copper wool and small brass wire brush (chore boy, not the fake import stuff) DO NOT USE steel wool or any type of sand/grit/grind/polish that will cause scratching. I also have a few shaped wooden dowels for picking up dirt in recesses.
We need photos man..
We need photos man..
#4
I usually start with a toothbrush and a mild degreaser like Simple Green. No soaking. Wipe on. Wipe off.
You are correct in that many sellers do not clean the parts because many collectors prefer to do it themselves. The worry is exactly what you describe, over-cleaning or over restoration. But it really depends on how much grime there is and is it covering any physical damage. Photos would be a great help.
You are correct in that many sellers do not clean the parts because many collectors prefer to do it themselves. The worry is exactly what you describe, over-cleaning or over restoration. But it really depends on how much grime there is and is it covering any physical damage. Photos would be a great help.
#6
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
I too would go light on the cleaning. My opinion about polishing is that I recall very few 50's 60s 70s parts that were polished as new. That means to me that polishing can be damaging. Smoothing is not.
These parts are not permanently lubed. They need it to go on a few more decades and just to work right. WD-40 is not oil. It's a fast-evaporating solvent that displaces water (WD = water displacer) and then evaporates. You need oil, and real oil, afterwards. It needs to be clean before you oil it so the oil does not carry dirt into the pivots and joints. Oil or not dirt will cause wear. This is one reason I don't want used parts to be just thrown in the ultrasonic. Users are not just looking for beauty, but for usability.
These parts are not permanently lubed. They need it to go on a few more decades and just to work right. WD-40 is not oil. It's a fast-evaporating solvent that displaces water (WD = water displacer) and then evaporates. You need oil, and real oil, afterwards. It needs to be clean before you oil it so the oil does not carry dirt into the pivots and joints. Oil or not dirt will cause wear. This is one reason I don't want used parts to be just thrown in the ultrasonic. Users are not just looking for beauty, but for usability.
#7
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Chattanooga
Bikes: '93 Bridgestone RB-1, '91 Specialized Allez Epic, '85 Raleigh Team Pro, '78 Andre Bertin, early '90s F. Moser Leader AX , '85 Centurion Equipe, '98 Litespeed Tuscany, '89 Klein Quantum, '80 Nishiki Superbe, '83 Peckham, '84 Fuji Opus III
#10
Can't wait to see this one J. !!!
Scott
Scott
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#11
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While certainly not the best lubricant I suggest you spray some in a tub and let the propellants evaporate for a few days to see what's left.
I typically throw my parts in a bucket of mineral spirits, clean with a toothbrush, spray my cleaned parts with WD40, oil pivots and then wipe them down before installing.
I typically throw my parts in a bucket of mineral spirits, clean with a toothbrush, spray my cleaned parts with WD40, oil pivots and then wipe them down before installing.
#12
While certainly not the best lubricant I suggest you spray some in a tub and let the propellants evaporate for a few days to see what's left.
I typically throw my parts in a bucket of mineral spirits, clean with a toothbrush, spray my cleaned parts with WD40, oil pivots and then wipe them down before installing.
I typically throw my parts in a bucket of mineral spirits, clean with a toothbrush, spray my cleaned parts with WD40, oil pivots and then wipe them down before installing.
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 15
From: Chattanooga
Bikes: '93 Bridgestone RB-1, '91 Specialized Allez Epic, '85 Raleigh Team Pro, '78 Andre Bertin, early '90s F. Moser Leader AX , '85 Centurion Equipe, '98 Litespeed Tuscany, '89 Klein Quantum, '80 Nishiki Superbe, '83 Peckham, '84 Fuji Opus III
Again, thanks all.
Put me in front of some '70s/80s parts and I am confident and experienced in the cleaning of parts to optimize function and appearance. It's just with these older parts I want to think more as a preservationist than a hygenist.
I'm going to proceed with a bit of clean up work and then show some pics.
Best,
J
Put me in front of some '70s/80s parts and I am confident and experienced in the cleaning of parts to optimize function and appearance. It's just with these older parts I want to think more as a preservationist than a hygenist.
I'm going to proceed with a bit of clean up work and then show some pics.
Best,
J
#14
please don't part it out
We'd love to see some pics, indeed. IMHO the price is not determined by the amount of cleaning. If a seller knows what he has and knows how to bring it to the marketplace, the bids can go sky high. I've bid against dirt encrusted matchbox deraillers in the triple digits, yet picked out beautifully cleaned cranks (campy, modern ergopower) for beer money. Some people just like to clean everything they put on the web, regardless if they know what it's worth.
We'd love to see some pics, indeed. IMHO the price is not determined by the amount of cleaning. If a seller knows what he has and knows how to bring it to the marketplace, the bids can go sky high. I've bid against dirt encrusted matchbox deraillers in the triple digits, yet picked out beautifully cleaned cranks (campy, modern ergopower) for beer money. Some people just like to clean everything they put on the web, regardless if they know what it's worth.
#15
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 15
From: Chattanooga
Bikes: '93 Bridgestone RB-1, '91 Specialized Allez Epic, '85 Raleigh Team Pro, '78 Andre Bertin, early '90s F. Moser Leader AX , '85 Centurion Equipe, '98 Litespeed Tuscany, '89 Klein Quantum, '80 Nishiki Superbe, '83 Peckham, '84 Fuji Opus III
While certainly not the best lubricant I suggest you spray some in a tub and let the propellants evaporate for a few days to see what's left.
I typically throw my parts in a bucket of mineral spirits, clean with a toothbrush, spray my cleaned parts with WD40, oil pivots and then wipe them down before installing.
I typically throw my parts in a bucket of mineral spirits, clean with a toothbrush, spray my cleaned parts with WD40, oil pivots and then wipe them down before installing.
Yeah, this is what I usually do as well. And as it turned out it's what has worked quite nicely on the Gran Sport. I've disassembled and cleaned the FD/RD, the headset and the crank. I'll show the result tomorrow.
Thanks,
Julian
Last edited by afilado; 02-07-12 at 07:09 PM.
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