I have not used varnish-fix decals before but I have applied self-adhesive examples on several occasions. I have read up on how to apply varnish-fix decals and it sounds quite straightforward, but can anyone give me any tips or suggestions to make this easier than what appears to be a messy "sticky finger" operation.
Obviously you use varnish, it has been suggested artists' varnish or gold size varnish but I have no idea how long it is before these become "tacky" and if these are still available. Is modern brush-on gloss exterior varnish suitable [is it polyurethane or acrylic] ? Is it possible to use spray-can varnish or does this dry too quickly ?
Is there any valid reason why the varnish can't be applied to the frame, so that dry fingers can apply the decals ? The decals that I have are quite wide having the name twice on one decal; to wrap around the down tube and the seat tube. Or do I cut both down the centre and match them together somehow?
In the past I'm fairly certain that I read somewhere that if you use the traditional varnish the decal method, you can get away with dampening the frame with water, so that the decals can slide around until finally in position. That sounds a great idea but presumably it has drawbacks eg. does it tend to emulsify the varnish ? Or is my memory failing on this subject also.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I only have two original sets [lucky me] and I might not be able to find any more -CHIRICO, if I mess things up !

A VERY interesting thread, and I'm only responding because I find this fascinating. I'm afraid I don't know any answers for you, but it sounds as though you've done your homework and know more than most here. There may be some guys here who know how to do this. Probably. But if it were me I would also try asking this question over on the Classic Rendezvous list, where there are plenty of very knowledgable fellows who are well versed in old technologies and who are themselves as old as the varnish fix technique.
Just one suggestion, based on absolutely no direct experience; I think I would use artists varnish. A small bottle of Windsor & Newton from the art supply store should be enough and is more of a pure varnish, made from natural ingredients, as opposed to synthetics.
Good luck with your project and please show us the results.

I would use this;
https://www.winsornewton.com/products...pan-gold-size/

and finish the decal with this;
https://www.winsornewton.com/products...gloss-varnish/

Edit: Don't use water on the frame prior. Follow the instructions. Water and varnish don't go well together. Your challenge will be placing the decals accurately as once they touch the frame there is no moving them. I think I'd be tempted to carefully slice the down tube decal into two sections to make it easier to install, but this could certainly backfire on you, showing a seam down the middle.
Instead, I'd carefully lay out the centerline of the tube with pin striping tape, just above and below the decal's final location, and then get that big decal centered well and touch the frame first on the center line. Burnish down lightly each side as you lay it down. Sounds like four hands might be handy for this part of the operation.

I've only done this once and so long ago the memory is hazy...but IIRC the reason you apply varnish (or gold size) to the decal itself is that there's some kind of coating on the decal that becomes tacky (activated) by the varnish...more tack than just tacky varnish alone would provide. Which makes me think it may be a combination of the solvents and the resins that do this, so wouldn't want to get too experimental unless I had a lot of extra decals to waste. Gold size (used for gold leaf) is available but designed for tackiness and comes in "slow" and "fast" formulas, referring to how long it takes to set up. I'd avoid using size and stick with (no pun) a good quality brush-on varnish applied to the decal back, not to the bike tube. I've read that Copal was the varnish of choice back in ancient days, but since it's hard to find Damar is the usual substitute.
Best of luck, it's a one-time-only process to adhere these, so do plenty of prep (make guides with pen or tape) so you get it right where you want it.

This seems like good, clear advice, except the last sentence, which must be a typo...which I presume you've already seen; from some web site;

"The transfers are printed on duplex paper, i.e., one sheet as a guide to place the transfer in position, and the other as a support to the transfer. These two sheets must be separated before transferring. They can be divided by rubbing a corner of the transfer.

Before complete separation is made apply a very thin and even coat of adhesive varnish to the face of the transfer. Keep as closely as possible to the lines of the design so as not to overlap. Allow this varnish to set until it becomes very tacky and then place the transfer in the required position on the article.

Press the transfer down evenly and firmly, and drive out all air bubbles, by rubbing with a soft cloth rolled into a ball, commencing from the center and working towards the edges. Then with a damp (not wet) sponge or washleather press down again, taking care not to shift the transfer. It is absolutely essential that the transfer should be in direct contact with the surface in every part. When this is certain apply water freely by means of a wet sponge, and when the paper support is well soaked, lift it up by one corner and peel or slide it off. Then press the transfer down again to make sure it is fully in contact.

After doing this, sponge with clean water in order to remove the composition remaining on the surface of the transfer. This is an extremely important detail, as unless it is properly done the transfer will crack.

To remove traces of superfluous adhesive varnish around the transfer, use a wet sponge to which has been added a little paraffin. Then quickly wipe it off with a damp washleather, away from the center.

When the transfer is perfectly dry on the article, (usually about twenty-four hours), it can be varnished to add to it's lustre. It must NOT be varnished directly it is transferred."

it's British-speak: you have to allow the decal to fully dry before you over-coat it with (more) varnish. You do want to clear-coat the top of the decal with the same high quality varnish used to adhere it (and a good soft brush) for protection but don't do it immediately after you've adhered it or you'll ruin it.
I'd wait a couple days (not just 24 hours) to be extra cautious.

Good advice unworthy1. I'd love to try this some time.

This is definitely one technique you have to learn - Better give it a few test trys - Hey remember how nervous you were the first time you trued a wheel...

Can't wait to see the pics...

Thank you for the advice. I have been in touch with the frame builder's son and although my Italian translation is pretty bad, he tells me to leave the varnish on the decal for at least 30 minutes. Then place the decal on the frame, pressing down hard working from the length of the middle portion outwards in both directions. He then tells me to dampen the backing paper and peel it off, starting from one corner. After this has been removed press down hard all over again.
Then this is the bit I don't understand. He tells me then to use water to thoroughly moisten the thin backing paper and carefully remove that, at the same time pressing down on the decal to avoid it lifting.
It is then necessary to leave the frame for at least 48 hours to allow the varnish to dry thoroughly. Only then should you use "fuel" whatever that might be - but definitely not petrol, to remove any deposits, including base adhesive from the face of the decal. If you don't do that, eventually the decal will crack.
After this has dried, it is suggested that the decals and frame are clear coated gloss varnish.
Just to complete this excursion, he suggested / told me to paint the frame Ferrari red - no other red ! So, to comply, I found the Ferrari paint code FER300 for the period and Halfords have duly made this paint up for me, in spray cans. Strangely, the paint is made up from three different shades of red, purple and white ! Chirico red frames should have yellow paint in the engraved / cut-out letters / lettering I'm told. So now I seem to know the full story, unless you know differently !
PS. being a [doddery old] computer cretin I've no idea how to eventually include photographs, which I can just about manage to put in "My Pictures" !

if you can apply varnish-fix decals, you can learn to post pictures...we'll stand by patiently until you do so

The water is to disolve the backing paper and release it from the decal.

Have not done it myself but have watched it done. It seems timing is critical, and that may be something only learned by doing and possibly failing a few times to get it. But there's always 'beginners luck".

Here's a copy of Brian Baylis' instructions from the old CR archives:

OK, one more time for the team. It has been quite a while since I
explained this esoteric process.

Use ONLY Man-0-War "Marine Spar Varnish" or "gold size" made for afixing
gold leaf. Spread a medium thin layer evenly and consistent over the back
of the decal. First peel up one tiny part if a corner and seperate it
slightly from the backing, so it will be easy to remove when the varnish
is ready. Let sit until the varnish is tacky. If you lightly touch the
varnish and you can pick up the decal with your finger, it's ready.
Depending on the age of your varnish, temp and humidity, it may take from
15 to 30 or 40 mins. to get tacky. Remove paper backing.

Apply decal to clean dry surface ang gently rub down, starting from the
center and moving outwards, once you have the decal properly placed. You
can lightly tack the decal on in many cases so you can measure it for
centeredness and so on. Go back every fe minutes and re-rub from the
center until the decal has been on for at least five minutes. Then use a
soft sponge or folded paper towel soaked in clean warm water and gently
pat down the tissue paper until it will slide around and release
completely from the decal. Remove soaked tissue. Then use regular kerosene
as the solvent to remove the excess varnish around the decal. Just dip the
tip of your finger in the kerosene and gently wipe the varnish off and
dilute gently with water and sponge, dabbing not rubbing until the varnish
residue is rinsed and wiped away with warm water. Pat dry with soft cloth
or dry paper towel. There are other "tricks" too lengthy to explain; but
this is all this person needs.

Stay away from "clear lacquer". Expreiment first, apply clear finish with
an air brush. I only use clear Imron over decals. I don't know anything
beyond that. Every paint is different, you're on your own here.

Brian Baylis

Thank you for the latest information. This is where the confusion begins. The manufacturer, if my translation can be believed, told me to remove the paper backing after placing the decal in position and pressing it down. The backing paper should be dampened with water to assist this. Then proceed with the rest of the process.
I found a glass bottle of Rowney 800 picture varnish that I bought decades ago [it cost 16p !], when at the time I had an inspiration to do oil painting as a hobby. I never opened it and now, in the bottle it looks OK, clear not cloudy.
I tried a small amount of this varnish on the decal sheet border and it dried virtually immediately or just soaked in, so pretty useless for this situation.
I'll search on.

The best information on this subject that I have come across, is on GOOGLE :-
Varnish fix piano decals
www.pianoatlas.com/vt.html

Are you still confused as to the directions? The way I read the directions, your translation is correct. After the decal is stuck to the frame, the tissue paper backing is removed by softening it with water. And listen to Brian Baylis, above: use only new (fresh) good quality marine spar varnish or, as I suggested in my first post, gold leaf sizing varnish.

Well what I thought would be aneasy operation, given all the kind advice, has turned out to be a complete disaster and I've removed the remains from the frame of one complete set of decals; so only one set left !
It is probably the case that the varnish was not tacky enough and / or the stiff paper backing was too tough to bend and keep bent whilst I removed it. I spent a lot of time shopping for a suitable varnish, not the polyurethane or water soluable types but the good old-fashioned yacht varnish.
I wondered afterwards if it was only necessary to varnish the actual letters and not the complete decal. I telelphoned a decal manufacturer and was told that this was correct.
I then went back to Chirico who sold me the decals and he told me that the whole decal should be coated with a thin layer of varnish, not just the letters etc. ! He reiterated what he'd told me initially :-
Cut the decals out according to the guiding lines etc., then lift a corner of the outer paper to release a small section of the decal tissue backing.
Stage two is to lightly coat the whole of the decal with a thin layer of varnish and allow it time to almost dry, during which time dampen the outer paper so that it is more pliant.
When almost dry then line the decal up on the frame and press home very firmly all over. Then immediately peel off the outer paper and once more press home to make sure the decal has stuck to the frame.
Leave the decal for some time until the varnish has fully dried, then sponge off the tissue backing, at the same time sponge the whole area sparingly to remove the residue adhesive and finally dry.
All this sounds simple enough to me, in my experience it isn't, at least not at a first attempt !
Finally, the owner of Chirico told me to either be very careful with the second set [which is the only other set in existence that he is aware of] - or get a professional signwriter to do the job.
Another dilemna !

Ah. What a shame. It doesn't sound easy at all. Even for an experienced hand, i'll wager. I am wondering; does this Chirico not have a source of someone who is experienced in this process? Or is he only the newest owner of a bicycle marque with no experience in this old technique? A professional sign maker may be a good option, if you can find one with this sort of experience. How about a gold leaf artisan or custom picture frame maker? This sounds like a daunting task, and I wish you the best of luck with the next try.

I'm going to photograph the two main CHIRICO decals and measure the letters. Fortunately the yellow letters are edged with a thin black line so they show up clearly. At least then I'll have a record of the type face and size, so that I'll then be able to get these manufactured as self-adhesive decals, if I mess up again.
In reality if the decal was not so wide, it would be easier to remove the paper backing but when it is roughly half the circumference of the tube, it doesn't like staying bent around it !
I've been dealing with Luigi Chirico who has been so helpful and he's had the business since his father gave it up in 1987, so he should know all about the decals etc. Mine look as if they've been in a drawer for decades !

I'm a little unclear, but trying to understand this. Do the decals have a tissue paper covering their "exposed" side (facing out), AND a stiff paper covering over the tissue paper? It seems that way. If so, the way I read Brian Baylis' instructions, the stiff paper backing should be removed PRIOR to placing the decal on the bike, but after you've applied the varnish and let it sit. **********

This is the latest update on the varnish-fix saga, but before that I'll try and answer the points raised.
It is correct that there is a tissue-type paper between the decal letter etc. and the paper outer. The outer paper is somehow "lightly glued" to the tissue paper. The tissue paper has a brand name which I can't remember but apparently it is no longer manufactured; hence no more varnish-fix transfers [there are now more easily attached decal methods].
The tissue paper is attched to the decal letter etc. by a water-based gum. When you reach this stage, the tissue paper can be removed by completely soaking in water. Some folks advocate warm water but this is not critical. I add about one drop of washing-up liquid to approx. half a litre of water. This helps to break surface tension and allow the tissue paper to slide off the decal, which is preferable to lifting it off.
Back now to the outer paper. There is no need or advantage to remove this from the tissue paper before placing the decal in position on the frame. In fact the disadvantage is that the locating marks on the outer paper are discarded - and this is hopeless !
To go back, I put a band of masking tape around the frame top and bottom of where decal will be placed. I mark the centre of the frame by keeping my face close to the frame and with a ruler note that you can see "approx. 30mm width", visually lining the ruler up against the down / seat tube; obviously 15mm is marked off on the tape, being the centre. You draw in the centre line of the decal if it is a dual, if it is single, attach a small tab of drafting tape at the top and bottom of the decal and mark the centre line on these.
There are a few general tips. For bands which encircle a tube make certain that they are not going to overlap at the ends.
Now to laying the decal, when the varnish is tacky [I use Johnsons Yacht Varnish, it is thin and clear and dries to tacky in approx. 30 minutes minimum]. I pull the tissue layer away from the outer paper on all four corners and slightly chamfer each corner of the tissue paper before varnishing. This stops the tissue paper curling when varnished.
Line up the decal on the frame and press down along the centre line to make certain it is in position.
Now this is important; have a fully squeezed-out sponge [car wash type] so that it is just damp and put this on the decal and press the remainder of the decal around the tube. Discard the sponge now. The barely damp outer paper will still be attached to the tissue paper and to easily remove it, start at one top corner and gently roll it back along the long side to approx. mid-point, pressing the tissue paper whilst doing this. Repeat from the bottom corner to mid-point and then roll the whole length of the paper across the width of the decal, pressing down the exposed tissue paper until it is completely removed. Press down all over the decal; I use a finger nail and also a paper handkerchief.
Leave this now until it has dried completely, then apply water [as above] to release the tissue paper.
Finally, I will just add that apparently those that know, use a glue stick or thinned PVA glue instead of varnish, but not for me. I've learned the hard way !

I forgot to mention that I did manage to successfully attach all the decals the second time around. I also forgot to add that I "flatted" the painted areas involved with 800 grade wet and dry paper beforehand.
I do have two sets of blue decals which were used by the factory [1970's on] on white and yellow painted frames. The yellow decals that I have used were used on the black, blue and red frames. Previous to that period, the decals were much simpler and stated - E. Chirico with an eagle logo.
I have one set of these varnish fix decals, which will probably be used on an early frame; if I can find one.

The following day. A disaster, some of the letters have lifted and some have split. Probably due to the fact that the sheets were 30 years old.
I will have to strip that part of the frame, re-paint and look for some appropriate self-adhesive replacements. I won't be using varnish-fix decals again !

Well, since I have been following along with on this, all I can say is that I'm sorry it didn't work out. You must be very frustrated. I know I would be. Well, at least you gave it a try. better luck with the next project, and, after all that work, please do included some pics on the forum when you get it whipped into shape.

and finally, Luigi Chirico has told me that I should have "finished" the decal, [immediately after removing the tissue paper and dabbing dry] with a wipe all over with diesel fuel - not petrol / gasolene.
It has also been suggested that neat varnish straight from the tin should be thinned down with White Spirit, varnish 4 parts, White Spirit 1 part.
All this is academic because now I have placed an order for the decal lettering to be produced as a self-adhesive option, same colour and font style.