Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#4126
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I am working on a bit of a puzzle. I am converting a MTB with canti brakes, and I want to keep them. The hub I am planning on using has a Shimano 7 speed cassette. I had the bike set with an upright configuration with friction thumbies. I don't want to use the thumbies in the new configuration, and I don't want to use a stem or downtube shifter. Here is the puzzle part.
Are there any brifters that would work with this configuration, or am I looking at having to use bar end shifters?
Are there any brifters that would work with this configuration, or am I looking at having to use bar end shifters?
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#4127
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I am working on a bit of a puzzle. I am converting a MTB with canti brakes, and I want to keep them. The hub I am planning on using has a Shimano 7 speed cassette. I had the bike set with an upright configuration with friction thumbies. I don't want to use the thumbies in the new configuration, and I don't want to use a stem or downtube shifter. Here is the puzzle part.
Are there any brifters that would work with this configuration, or am I looking at having to use bar end shifters?
Are there any brifters that would work with this configuration, or am I looking at having to use bar end shifters?
Of course, you can probably get an 8 or 9-speed cassette on that hub, too, so more options open up.
#4128
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You'll need a new front derailleur, but it's doable. I like the ird alpina.
#4129
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Pardon my ignorance, but what is this RSX? Is it a bar end unit, or MTB brifters, or something else?
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#4130
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RSX is Shimano group
From velobase:
RSX was introduced in 1995 and was positioned below the 105SC and the RX100 group sets. The original RSX series was 7 speed & later modified in 1999 as an 8 speed group. This only lasted until the end of 1999 when the RSX name was withdrawn & replaced directly with Sora.
VeloBase.com - Component Listing
From velobase:
RSX was introduced in 1995 and was positioned below the 105SC and the RX100 group sets. The original RSX series was 7 speed & later modified in 1999 as an 8 speed group. This only lasted until the end of 1999 when the RSX name was withdrawn & replaced directly with Sora.
VeloBase.com - Component Listing
#4131
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Oh, they went 8-speed in 1999. Interesting. I had a 1999 bike with 3x7, guess they used some previous year components.
Looks like the only reasonable bid ones right now are 8-sp, gonna have to wait for some reasonable 7s to drop.
Looks like the only reasonable bid ones right now are 8-sp, gonna have to wait for some reasonable 7s to drop.
#4132
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This project seems to get a little bigger each time I think about it. Part of the beauty of it I suppose. lol Think I located a good donor bike on CL - at least for rims and possibly brake calipers. $40.00 out of pocket up front to solve a rim problem, with a couple further options to recoup funds seems a much better deal than laying out $100.00+ on new rims.
On a side note, I think I have found a go-to LBS here. Velocity is a cool place (albeit with a very small portion of the floor space dedicated to products). It's half bike shop, half coffee shop, with about 60 or so used bikes for sale. I took my project frame in when I went to pick up nice bar tape. Getting the pressed on parts of the headset removed and a stubborn BB removed for an estimated $10.00 - with one day turn-around.
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#4133
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There are probably some 2200 shifters floating around too, right?
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#4134
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Everytime I visit this thread I start pricing what I need to convert my Rockhopper lol. I just worry about the reach, I may try to buy some super cheap drop bars and nothing else just to test it.
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It's easy now if you use a quill stem adaptor, then you can try one clamp-on stem after another with the same bar setup until you find the one with the right reach. Sure beats having to swap quills.
#4136
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#4137
Thrifty Bill
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If you have to pay for all the parts, its easy to spend $150 on a conversion.
When you compare it to a full on touring bike, it still can be a bargain. And hey, its fun, right?
Certainly if you have a nearby co-op, some of the parts can be super cheap (drop handlebars and brake levers for example). In addition, you can buy generic aero levers on eBay for under $7 a set, cheaper than replacement lever hoods.
Last edited by wrk101; 06-24-15 at 08:58 AM.
#4138
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This is what it looks like now (except I have lowered the stem since this picture). I also plan to change tires. I know this isn't a classic or vintage so I apologize if I hijacked this thread. I just really dig these conversions.
Last edited by Coop500; 06-24-15 at 09:05 AM.
#4139
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#4140
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I hope some of you may be able to help with a suggestion for a drop bar MTB for me. I`m a tall rider & will generally be on a standard `old` road bike between 24 1/2 to 25 1/4. I even had a 26" Bob Jackson once.
The older off road frame seem to stop at a max of 23" c to top seat-tube - am I going to get a reasonable saddle position & reach if:
1. I use a seatpost with some layback
2. I mess around with a cheap ergo stem until I find what reach I want?
Any advice from similar shaped riders would be very welcome. Thanks, Julian
The older off road frame seem to stop at a max of 23" c to top seat-tube - am I going to get a reasonable saddle position & reach if:
1. I use a seatpost with some layback
2. I mess around with a cheap ergo stem until I find what reach I want?
Any advice from similar shaped riders would be very welcome. Thanks, Julian
I have had much better luck converting a hybrid to drop bars. The stand over is higher and the head tube is a bit higher so it is not so far down to get to the drops. I have been riding a 23" (25"ctt) Mongoose conversion for 4 years now and still love it. It will only take a 40c tire but that is plenty for the trails I ride. A larger steel hybrid should be easy to find and very cheap. I think most hybrid\flat bar road bike crowd has switched to aluminum.
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#4141
Jedi Master
It really depends on whether you have a pile of parts or not. With a pile of parts, it can be done for $20 or less (kind of extreme thrift case), and the sale of the stock parts can more than offset the expense (thumb shifters and mtb brake levers). Just sold a set of Suntour thumbies and I have sold multiple sets of the Dia Compe 980 levers, found on a lot of vintage mtbs.
If you have to pay for all the parts, its easy to spend $150 on a conversion.
When you compare it to a full on touring bike, it still can be a bargain. And hey, its fun, right?
Certainly if you have a nearby co-op, some of the parts can be super cheap (drop handlebars and brake levers for example). In addition, you can buy generic aero levers on eBay for under $7 a set, cheaper than replacement lever hoods.
If you have to pay for all the parts, its easy to spend $150 on a conversion.
When you compare it to a full on touring bike, it still can be a bargain. And hey, its fun, right?
Certainly if you have a nearby co-op, some of the parts can be super cheap (drop handlebars and brake levers for example). In addition, you can buy generic aero levers on eBay for under $7 a set, cheaper than replacement lever hoods.
I ended up right around $800 all in, but I didn't cut too many corners, and yes it was fun.
#4142
Thrifty Bill
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+ Hybrid conversions work well too.
And old steel frame hybrids can be quite affordable. This one came out of a local flipper's scrap metal pile (just the frames). In this case, the goal was to make an XS conversion, so I started with a really small frame. This one has Tourney trigger shifters, mounted on the handlebar flats, to match the shifters I have used on flat bar MTBs. Wanted to make something for the wife to try out.
[IMG]1992 Schwinn Crosscut 16 inch by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
Started with this out of the scrap pile. Obviously, the bigger your stash, the less $$ it takes to complete. But complete vintage hybrids are pretty affordable (but not free like this one).
[IMG]1992 Schwinn Crosscut by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
And old steel frame hybrids can be quite affordable. This one came out of a local flipper's scrap metal pile (just the frames). In this case, the goal was to make an XS conversion, so I started with a really small frame. This one has Tourney trigger shifters, mounted on the handlebar flats, to match the shifters I have used on flat bar MTBs. Wanted to make something for the wife to try out.
[IMG]1992 Schwinn Crosscut 16 inch by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
Started with this out of the scrap pile. Obviously, the bigger your stash, the less $$ it takes to complete. But complete vintage hybrids are pretty affordable (but not free like this one).
[IMG]1992 Schwinn Crosscut by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Last edited by wrk101; 06-24-15 at 10:23 AM.
#4144
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I find that Rockhoppers make especially nice drop bar conversions, if it works with your geometry. You can't beat the versitility for the cost. Ultimate value, at least to me.
Note: I do usually buy used parts. I'm cheap and hard on bikes, plus the LBS has a pretty sturdy stock of quality lightly used bits for cheap.
#4145
High Plains Luddite
Speaking of 3x7 Shimano RSX "brifters", I have a set on my 1996 road bike and they work very well. I really like them, and catch myself wondering why anyone would need more than seven rear gears. My MTB has eight, and that's just ridiculous.
I have spent more than that, but I don't mind. That's pretty cheap as far as hobbies go. I don't play golf and I don't own a boat, so I figure a few bucks spent on fun stuff once in a while is okay.
And the parts are usable on other bikes, so it's not like buying something for one bike only. I believe there is a lifetime supply of '80s and '90s rigid mountain bikes and hybrids on craigslist, and if I find a bike I like better than the one I have now, I can just swap over most of the parts.
I finally have all the parts together and will attempt my first conversion this weekend. I've never even changed cables before, so this should be a good learning experience and, hopefully, a lot of fun, too.
Originally Posted by wrk101
If you have to pay for all the parts, its easy to spend $150 on a conversion.
When you compare it to a full on touring bike, it still can be a bargain. And hey, its fun, right?
When you compare it to a full on touring bike, it still can be a bargain. And hey, its fun, right?
And the parts are usable on other bikes, so it's not like buying something for one bike only. I believe there is a lifetime supply of '80s and '90s rigid mountain bikes and hybrids on craigslist, and if I find a bike I like better than the one I have now, I can just swap over most of the parts.
I finally have all the parts together and will attempt my first conversion this weekend. I've never even changed cables before, so this should be a good learning experience and, hopefully, a lot of fun, too.
#4146
Mike
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Thanks for the post and info on the Rockhoppers. I have no issue with used parts either. I hoping to find some old road bars cheap so I can try it and see if I will like it will enough to continue forward.
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Hello & thanks very much for the info on drop-barring an old MTB for a taller rider - I`ve got some cheap components & a 23" c-t Raleigh 531 `All Terrain` tubed frame & forks to play with. It`s been very helpful to have your advice & will eventually get some pics up when I`ve got close to completion! I like that Mongoose Kobe! Thanks again, Julian
#4148
Thrifty Bill
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I have spent more than that, but I don't mind. That's pretty cheap as far as hobbies go. I don't play golf and I don't own a boat, so I figure a few bucks spent on fun stuff once in a while is okay.
And the parts are usable on other bikes, so it's not like buying something for one bike only.
1. My father was an avid golfer, and he did spend a ton of money (and time) on it. Myself, I didn't get the golf gene, so it was mostly frustrating, and not much fun.
2. Most of the drop bar conversion parts: bar end shifters, drop bars, dirt drop stem, are very rugged, should last a very long time, and right now, are increasing in value. So if you don't like it, you can recoup a lot of the spend when you resell the parts. Buy right, and you could make a little coin for your efforts.
+100 Check your LBS. I have found a lot of vintage parts at low prices, like a nice Deerhead RD for $6, a nice set of Suntour barcons for $5, and so on. Build a relationship with your LBS, and who knows, they might toss you an old bike or two. Mine gave me an incomplete late 1980s Trek 830 last week. It had a decent Deore triple crankset and nice Deore thumb shifters. Earn your keep by buying a few items from them, and recommending their shop to others. I'll be dropping the fork, frame, and headset off at the co-op.
The strange thing I am seeing right now is vintage mtbs get little to no market response, but the PARTS off these bikes can do very well: long cage RDs, triple cranksets, thumb shifters, etc.
#4149
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You can use an 8s brifter on a 7s cassette. Spacing is close enough not to have issues. I am currently running a '97 8s 105 brifter with a 7s cassette and it is lovely.