These brakes would be so much easier to work on if I could clamp them together while I pull the cable and tighten the anchor nut.

I have a couple of problems with my current way of doing it:

- I have to put cloth between the wheel and pads so that the pads don't rub. How else would I space them out?
- My clamp is a piece of **** from Harbor Freight. It slips all over and off the pads.

Maybe I don't do it the usual way, but I just use a cable puller while I squeeze the caliper with my hand, if needed. The cable puller can be set at the appropriate tension while you tighten the pinch bolt. And I just eyeball the rim to pad clearance.

If you do not have a "third hand" tool use an old toe strap.

There are "3rd Hand" tools to hold the shoes tight against the rims, and "4th Hand" tools to tighten the cable. The 3rd Hand tools have a hole or loop fitting over the shoe anchor bolts, so they don't usually slip off. I usually just use my hands, works well once you get the hang of it, but I'll use a 3rd Hand if the caliper springs are really strong or with cantilevers.

No need to shim the shoes for adjustment, just pull the cable tight then ease off a tiny bit to let a little slack in before you tighten the anchor bolt. Trial/error will teach you how much slack is right.

If there is a cable tension adjusting barrel you can pull the cable tight after turning the adjusting barrel a few turns, then return the barrel to neutral to spread the shoes.

+1.

Hozan third hand.

At home I use an Irwin Quick Clamp. It works well enough that I haven't bought a third hand tool.

This.

For proper spacing between rim and brake pad:

Fold a business card double and slip one on each side between pad and rim. Then use 3rd hand or toestrap.
Pull/tigthen cable.
Done!

This.

1. Screw out the barrel adjuster so you can relieve tension later if necessary.
2. I may have the same POS HF bar clamp as you do, #46805. Got it on a whim while trying to find a 3rd hand tool. It was necessary to glue the pads in place, but other than that, it works OK.
3. I recently got a Park BT-2 cable stretcher. This tool is a Godsend. It makes it very easy to clamp a cable exactly where you want it. I use it in addition to the bar clamp.

That Irwin looks to be of much higher quality than the HF one I have. It looks to have longer arms which would make it easier to use. Which size works best as a 3rd hand?

Yep. Me three.

^ I use the one with an overall length of about , uh ....12 inches or so.

Four

Five- See the other current thread on this topic,
"How the Hell Do I Adjust These Old Sidepulls " ,
for pictures of the tools

Sometimes an Irwin clamp. Sometimes a fourth hand tool. Sometimes my bare hands.

Combination of quick release and barrel adjuster. I can get the cable reasonably tight with the caliper in the open position. Close the quick release and adjust with barrel. Works every time for brakes with those features.

Don't make me salivate!

Sidepull brakes? The easiest brakes in the world to adjust with two hands!

I have a third hand as well, but a nice trick for pad clearance and being able to get the angle to the pads so the front contacts first is to wrap a paper clip around the pad 2/3 of the way back from the front, then squeeze and tighten works great for almost all brake pad installations.

You have three hands!!!??!?!?

Funny.

https://kk.org/cooltools/archives/001216

I bought a Park Third Hand Tool about 30 years ago, have used it many many many many times since.

I have tried Old School and New Third Hands, but I keep coming back to my universal sliding clamp, which works in any number of situations, from setting up brakes, to preparing shipping containers, to taping handlebars - opportunities for use are endless, sort of...

I have 4-5 different versions of a third hand brake tool, but for the last year or so, I usually just use my hand. I leave the cable long, wrap the excess around my index finger so I can squeeze and pull at the asme time, and tighten the sinch bolt with theother hand. For centerpulls, I do the same.