Wheelset question
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 58
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From: Seattle, WA
Wheelset question
I know that most of the vintage road bikes have a rear spacing of 126mm to accomodate 6spd freewheel drivetrains. However, I was reading this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-an-older-bike
and it seems like I can squeeze in a 9 speed cassette? There are a lot more wheel choices and 700c wheelsets available in my area so I'm asking for future refence.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bik/3248049275.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-an-older-bike
and it seems like I can squeeze in a 9 speed cassette? There are a lot more wheel choices and 700c wheelsets available in my area so I'm asking for future refence.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bik/3248049275.html
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128
Likes: 39
Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
You can cold set a 126mm spaced frame to accommodate more speeds than 7, but I don't know if or how much the size of the frame might limit this, as the dropout face alignment might be more affected on a small frame as the stays are shorter.
Chombi
Chombi
#3
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Joined: Dec 2007
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I do it all the time, but Chombi is right; it often depends on the frame.
I tried it with a Schwinn Aluminum 564 and darn near lost a finger.
I've done it on one Cannondale, and if she gets a rear flat, she'll have to use a cell phone.
An aluminum Centurion was pretty difficult, also.
Most steel frames, especially the larger ones, accommodate the extra width with little more than some extra effort.
The hazards are: misalignment, chain rub on the smaller cogs, knuckle-busting when removing or installing the rear wheel, and sometimes the dish. I've never had the misalignment problem or the dish problem, only had chain rub on an older carbon frame, but have pinched a few fingertips. I'm serious in that you can easily nip off the end of a finger in one of those aluminum frames, or simply get it stuck in there, and you'll not get it out with the remaining unstuck hand.
I tried it with a Schwinn Aluminum 564 and darn near lost a finger.
I've done it on one Cannondale, and if she gets a rear flat, she'll have to use a cell phone.
An aluminum Centurion was pretty difficult, also.
Most steel frames, especially the larger ones, accommodate the extra width with little more than some extra effort.
The hazards are: misalignment, chain rub on the smaller cogs, knuckle-busting when removing or installing the rear wheel, and sometimes the dish. I've never had the misalignment problem or the dish problem, only had chain rub on an older carbon frame, but have pinched a few fingertips. I'm serious in that you can easily nip off the end of a finger in one of those aluminum frames, or simply get it stuck in there, and you'll not get it out with the remaining unstuck hand.
#4
carpe diem

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 678
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From: Fenton, MI
Bikes: CAAD 9 , Schwinn World, Prologue, Madison , Sports Tourer ; Ironman , Opus lll , Allez , Peugeot 753, Trek 531 (2) , Assenmacher ( custom)
I squeezed an 8 speed set into a 63cm steel frame (126mm) , not too bad getting the wheel in and out . Robbie is right about clearance for the small cog, as I can't even use it because the chain gets hung up on the frame. Still very much worth the effort .
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