Saving Leather Saddle?
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,990
Likes: 36
From: Williston, VT
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-T, Soma Rush, Razesa Racer, ⅔ of a 1983 Holdsworth Professional, Nishiki Riviera Winter Bike
#27
Sturmey Archer Hub


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,680
Likes: 1,970
From: New England
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Ah- online it is then. I'm going to order some proofhide and give it a shot.
Is it worth getting the Brooks spanner too? Is anyone here getting use from them? Or are they somewhat of a dead end? I read somewhere (I think Sheldon Brown's site) that adjusting the nut is a bad idea for most people. Is this sort of thing hard to adjust properly to the point that I shouldn't try it?
How about online retailers- I see Wallbike, Harris, and Nashbar all have this stuff. Are any of them problematic to deal with, or faster and better service than the others?
Is it worth getting the Brooks spanner too? Is anyone here getting use from them? Or are they somewhat of a dead end? I read somewhere (I think Sheldon Brown's site) that adjusting the nut is a bad idea for most people. Is this sort of thing hard to adjust properly to the point that I shouldn't try it?
How about online retailers- I see Wallbike, Harris, and Nashbar all have this stuff. Are any of them problematic to deal with, or faster and better service than the others?
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Last edited by SirMike1983; 07-25-07 at 12:18 PM.
#28
Ah- online it is then. I'm going to order some proofhide and give it a shot.
Is it worth getting the Brooks spanner too? Is anyone here getting use from them? Or are they somewhat of a dead end? I read somewhere (I think Sheldon Brown's site) that adjusting the nut is a bad idea for most people. Is this sort of thing hard to adjust properly to the point that I shouldn't try it?
How about online retailers- I see Wallbike, Harris, and Nashbar all have this stuff. Are any of them problematic to deal with, or faster and better service than the others?
Is it worth getting the Brooks spanner too? Is anyone here getting use from them? Or are they somewhat of a dead end? I read somewhere (I think Sheldon Brown's site) that adjusting the nut is a bad idea for most people. Is this sort of thing hard to adjust properly to the point that I shouldn't try it?
How about online retailers- I see Wallbike, Harris, and Nashbar all have this stuff. Are any of them problematic to deal with, or faster and better service than the others?
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 0
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Classic, 1984 Schwinn LeTour, 1998 Gary Fisher Marlin, 1969 Hercules, 1977 Sekai 5000 Superlite, 1993 Koga-Myata TerraLiner, 2013 Trek Farley.
After turning a Brooks into evil cardboard through systematic abuse, I rescued it with ordinary dubbin. Generously covered it on both sides and put a plastic bag over it overnight, repeated the next night (the leather had "drunk" all the dubbin), and then buffed off the ast of the slime and finished with another overnight of Proofide. That did the job.
... contrary to what you might think is common sense, dried out leather needs to be re-hydrated before oiling. Wrap the saddle in a damp towel for half a day. Then, let it dry for about an hour without the towel until it is moist like a fresh piece of Wonderbread. Then, oil and heat the oil in by putting in the sunshine OR using a hair dryer.
Question for the experts: since the saddle has shrunk a little, it will get re-stretched when it goes back on its rails ... when in the process is the best time to stretch it? When wet? when oiled?
#30
Senior Member




Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21,793
Likes: 5,722
From: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Old post but a useful one. I like that there is no consensus on how to salvage a cracked leather saddle. . . . But at least there are some ideas to try out; I can't make it much worse than it already is,
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