Is this peugeot worth fixing?
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,643
Likes: 68
From: Portland OR
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
That should be pretty straightforward to put back in running order.
You may have to replace the derailleurs as the plastic bits tend to crack with age, especially the front derailleur. You can get period-appropriate Simplex derailleurs on eBay for $30-ish, or used parts from a bike co-op for $5-10-ish. If the plastic isn't cracked, then go ahead and use the existing derailleurs.
You will surely want to replace all the cables and housing, and the brake pads, which will cost $30 or so in parts. Also the tires, rim tape and tubes, another $50-ish. Bar tape, $12.
The half hoods on the Mafac levers are rotted, you can simply run the levers bare, or there was a thread here showing how to cut some $10 Cane Creek brake hoods to closely resemble the original half hoods. https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Cree...ke+hoods+black
The saddle is hideous and has to go.
Otherwise, it should just be a matter of disassemble - clean - re-grease - reassemble. Read the Sheldon Brown site to learn what to do. Be judicious, don't force a fastener until you are very sure you know why it is not turning, don't break or lose anything, you really want to re-use all the existing components. If you start replacing things, you'll get into the quirky world of old French sizes and threadings, and that will be frustrating. Be aware the non-drive-side pedal is reverse threaded.
You'll need a few bike specific tools (wrenches) which cost $10 each. Unless you have a co-op nearby that loans tools.
The bottom bracket will be a challenge because the cranks are cottered. If you have a LBS that will remove, overhaul, and reinstall the cranks and bottom bracket for a reasonable price, you might consider that. Otherwise, you can buy a cotter press or - people will get mad at me for saying this - if the bottom bracket turns smoothly, just drip oil into it (both sides) and ride. No, it isn't "right" but it will get you on the road and if you decide the bike is a keeper, you can do the BB later.
Some very fine sandpaper (like 600 grit wet/dry) will restore shine to oxidized alloy parts.
When (if) you get the frame completely stripped, call some local powder coaters. You can probably get the frame powder coated for $100-150, if you want to. At that point, I'd personally spend $50 for reproduction decals to do it right. It is your dad's bike after all.
You may have to replace the derailleurs as the plastic bits tend to crack with age, especially the front derailleur. You can get period-appropriate Simplex derailleurs on eBay for $30-ish, or used parts from a bike co-op for $5-10-ish. If the plastic isn't cracked, then go ahead and use the existing derailleurs.
You will surely want to replace all the cables and housing, and the brake pads, which will cost $30 or so in parts. Also the tires, rim tape and tubes, another $50-ish. Bar tape, $12.
The half hoods on the Mafac levers are rotted, you can simply run the levers bare, or there was a thread here showing how to cut some $10 Cane Creek brake hoods to closely resemble the original half hoods. https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Cree...ke+hoods+black
The saddle is hideous and has to go.
Otherwise, it should just be a matter of disassemble - clean - re-grease - reassemble. Read the Sheldon Brown site to learn what to do. Be judicious, don't force a fastener until you are very sure you know why it is not turning, don't break or lose anything, you really want to re-use all the existing components. If you start replacing things, you'll get into the quirky world of old French sizes and threadings, and that will be frustrating. Be aware the non-drive-side pedal is reverse threaded.
You'll need a few bike specific tools (wrenches) which cost $10 each. Unless you have a co-op nearby that loans tools.
The bottom bracket will be a challenge because the cranks are cottered. If you have a LBS that will remove, overhaul, and reinstall the cranks and bottom bracket for a reasonable price, you might consider that. Otherwise, you can buy a cotter press or - people will get mad at me for saying this - if the bottom bracket turns smoothly, just drip oil into it (both sides) and ride. No, it isn't "right" but it will get you on the road and if you decide the bike is a keeper, you can do the BB later.
Some very fine sandpaper (like 600 grit wet/dry) will restore shine to oxidized alloy parts.
When (if) you get the frame completely stripped, call some local powder coaters. You can probably get the frame powder coated for $100-150, if you want to. At that point, I'd personally spend $50 for reproduction decals to do it right. It is your dad's bike after all.
Last edited by jyl; 07-30-13 at 09:29 AM.
#27
Originally Posted by Joe9
Thanks for the advise. I'm a little concerned about the simplex derailer since I read they don't last. However I do know it is not the original. Like you said, I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. I'm kind of a diy guy so I'll enjoy learning and fixing it myself.
You said aluminum foil to clean the parts? I guess wire brush/steel wool is too harsh? Or should I use that for the steel parts?
You said aluminum foil to clean the parts? I guess wire brush/steel wool is too harsh? Or should I use that for the steel parts?
Aluminum foil is cheaper than wire brushes and I've found it to be easier on the chrome than a steel wire brush.
Last edited by clasher; 07-30-13 at 11:03 AM.
#28
Vello Kombi, baby

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 16
From: Je suis ici
Bikes: 1973 Eisentraut; 1970s Richard Sachs; 1978 Alfio Bonnano; 1967 Peugeot PX10
If fixing to flip, the answer is prolly no. Fixing to ride, I'd say yes. The money pit danger is that you like the ride enough you won't be able to resist upgrading the frame.

They make good fixed gears/singlespeeds. Or urban beaters:

(The above is an AO/UO euro variant). Both bikes have more $$$ in parts on them then they're actually worth.

They make good fixed gears/singlespeeds. Or urban beaters:

(The above is an AO/UO euro variant). Both bikes have more $$$ in parts on them then they're actually worth.
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Waste your money! Buy my comic book!
#29
wish i'd had a dad like yours. i was always pushed away (by both parents).
#30
Get off my lawn!


Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6,035
Likes: 118
From: The Garden State
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
#32
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 676
Likes: 111
From: Calgary
Bikes: Condor, Cinelli SC, MKM Metcalfe, Peugeot AE08, Bianchi, Cougar, Miyata, Harry Hall, Holdsworth Special, Raleigh Int'l, Le Croco, Bob Jackson, Zeus
Keep it. Fix it or don't. Think great thoughts of your Dad when you look at it or, if you've fixed it, when you ride it.
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