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Am I searching for the impossible stem?

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Am I searching for the impossible stem?

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Old 11-19-13 | 04:44 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by shoota
So I'd like to find a 1" stem to try with the quill adapter. Why are these so hard to find? ...
That is a good question, and I've noticed the same thing - I've picked up a couple of 1" stems at swap meets usually because they didn't know what it was or why it was incompatible with everything else they had.

I think the answer might be that when non-threaded headsets first started to become popular they didn't get used on road bikes. Then when road finally made the transition in bulk, everything went to 1 1/8 right away - so road stem manufacturing quickly went from quill to 1 1/8. I only have 1 non-quill 1" stem that doesn't look like a beefed up MTB stem.
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Old 11-19-13 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ldmataya
That is a good question, and I've noticed the same thing - I've picked up a couple of 1" stems at swap meets usually because they didn't know what it was or why it was incompatible with everything else they had.

I think the answer might be that when non-threaded headsets first started to become popular they didn't get used on road bikes. Then when road finally made the transition in bulk, everything went to 1 1/8 right away - so road stem manufacturing quickly went from quill to 1 1/8. I only have 1 non-quill 1" stem that doesn't look like a beefed up MTB stem.
Really the only nice ones I have seen are the silver Ritcheys. That might be an option too.
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Old 11-19-13 | 08:18 PM
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Oh no !!!!!...I just tossed out 4 of those salsa stems last week. They all need to be cleaned up a bit, but they were just getting in the way. You live and learn.....
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Old 11-19-13 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by shoota
I'm game to listen to any offers and I realize there are a ton out there but everything I've seen so far has something off with it. Like you said a lot of them are for mtb so the bar clamp diameter is wrong and so is the degree rise.

All I want is: a black 1" stem with 26.0 bar clamp, 17 degree, 90-95mm. Why is that so hard??
Because you want it threadless and 1"....
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Old 11-19-13 | 08:42 PM
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I have a 90mm salsa SUL stem... But have been putting off checking if it has the hash mark or not... If it doesn't, I won't sell it, and if it does, I can't sell it
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Old 11-19-13 | 09:03 PM
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Like this?


How about this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zenith-GRAN-...-/380347025346
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Old 11-19-13 | 09:10 PM
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Stop playin'...
https://paulcarsonbicycles.com/collec...andlebar-stems

I'd spend the extra $15 for the fillet-brazed option
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Old 11-19-13 | 09:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by whatwolf
I have a 90mm salsa SUL stem... But have been putting off checking if it has the hash mark or not... If it doesn't, I won't sell it, and if it does, I can't sell it
Whelp thx for nuthin' then :/
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Old 11-19-13 | 10:43 PM
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Maybe a Specialized branded Nitto? Pretty easy to find

Here's a pic of a 90 x 26.0



Or maybe an ITM eclypse (threadless version available)

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Old 11-20-13 | 07:19 AM
  #35  
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The recalled stems have the hash mark//. So if you stem does not have the hash mark, it should be OK.
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Old 11-20-13 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by thinktubes
Maybe a Specialized branded Nitto? Pretty easy to find

Here's a pic of a 90 x 26.0



Or maybe an ITM eclypse (threadless version available)

i like that ITM.

Originally Posted by tarwheel
The recalled stems have the hash mark//. So if you stem does not have the hash mark, it should be OK.
Ok cool so I can sell this one if I ever find a replacement.
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Old 11-20-13 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
Thanks for the info and link! I'll take a look at mine when I get home.

Back on track now, anyone ever painted a quill stem with good results?

I haven't read the entire thread yet but wanted to reply to this question while I remember as I am on my first cup of joe lol.

I have painted a lot of different stems both steel and aluminum and found a few things that work good. For aluminum stems I got good results by first polishing it a bit, it doesn't have to be a mirror finish but close, clean it with soap and warm to hot water when done, I use gloves after this to avoid oil from your hands getting on it & just to be safe I rub it down with lacquer thinner. I then use Dupli Color Adhesion Promoter as primer, then color & clear of the same brand & type. This has proven to be durable & looks the best, the longer it gets to cure the better & I always tape the lower section to just below the max line as it will just get tore up going into the head tube anyway.

This also works with good cro mo stems as well as they can be polished up pretty nice ( I use a buffing wheel for these but do it by hand for the aluminum stems).

I only use this method with stems that have had not so nice of a finish left on them, I use my Glass Bead blasting cabinet with very fine glass bead, I clean the stems as good as I can before blasting them & once blasted I also handle them with gloves & give them the same treatment as above. You can just use a satin clear over the promoter & it will give a nice dull grayish color or use any satin paint as a finish. I prefer to use satins if I have blasted the stems ( or any aluminum part that is to be painted after ) & gloss over polished bits. Hope this gives you some other options in making a stem fit your needs.


Glenn
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Old 11-20-13 | 08:55 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Glennfordx4
I haven't read the entire thread yet but wanted to reply to this question while I remember as I am on my first cup of joe lol.

I have painted a lot of different stems both steel and aluminum and found a few things that work good. For aluminum stems I got good results by first polishing it a bit, it doesn't have to be a mirror finish but close, clean it with soap and warm to hot water when done, I use gloves after this to avoid oil from your hands getting on it & just to be safe I rub it down with lacquer thinner. I then use Dupli Color Adhesion Promoter as primer, then color & clear of the same brand & type. This has proven to be durable & looks the best, the longer it gets to cure the better & I always tape the lower section to just below the max line as it will just get tore up going into the head tube anyway.

This also works with good cro mo stems as well as they can be polished up pretty nice ( I use a buffing wheel for these but do it by hand for the aluminum stems).

I only use this method with stems that have had not so nice of a finish left on them, I use my Glass Bead blasting cabinet with very fine glass bead, I clean the stems as good as I can before blasting them & once blasted I also handle them with gloves & give them the same treatment as above. You can just use a satin clear over the promoter & it will give a nice dull grayish color or use any satin paint as a finish. I prefer to use satins if I have blasted the stems ( or any aluminum part that is to be painted after ) & gloss over polished bits. Hope this gives you some other options in making a stem fit your needs.


Glenn
Thanks Glenn!
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Old 11-20-13 | 10:18 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TimmyT
These are nice. In service here:


Ron Cooper by djk762, on Flickr
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