Tips and tricks for restoring like new condition
01-30-14 | 07:02 AM
#51
Cottered Crank
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,401
Likes: 15
From: Chicago
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
I could always use an old fork in the vise for this kind of wheel cleaning & polishing I suppose. Maybe I could bend up another junk fork for rear wheels too
01-30-14 | 07:35 AM
#52
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 36
From: Hurricane Alley , Florida
Bikes: Treks (USA), Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn letour,Raleigh Team Professional, Gazelle GoldLine Racing, 2 Super Mondias, Carlton Professional.
Before...
After
Just a good wash down, Scratch-X, Carnuba wax, and new decals.
After
Just a good wash down, Scratch-X, Carnuba wax, and new decals.
01-30-14 | 07:45 AM
#53
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 463
Likes: 1
Bikes: Bianchi Argentin (X-4) Colnago Super, +3 misc Bianchi Corsa Bikes
self serve car wash I just keep the spray up and down near the bottom brackets and hubs to keep the spray from getting inside plus it gives that bike a nice lemony smell
01-30-14 | 08:09 AM
#54
Mike J
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 9
From: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
All this polishing! But I do it too. Mothers brand aluminum polish. Also use the Turtle Wax chrome polish on chrome bits. And my ace in the hole for cleaning and degreasing, "Challenger" cleaner. Cuts thru crud faster than anything else including solvent based products.
One of the ways to identify a good bike back in the day, was if the components didnt shine. You knew a bike was of decent quality because it didn't have chromed steel parts. And Campy had the satin anodized finish. Shiny parts meant cheap bike!
One of the ways to identify a good bike back in the day, was if the components didnt shine. You knew a bike was of decent quality because it didn't have chromed steel parts. And Campy had the satin anodized finish. Shiny parts meant cheap bike!
So then it's scrape, file, sand course, sand fine, sand superfine, steelwool course, steelwool fine, steelwool superfine with wd-40, metal polish, then wadding cloth, then wipe down, you get to this:
01-30-14 | 08:53 AM
#55
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 463
Likes: 1
Bikes: Bianchi Argentin (X-4) Colnago Super, +3 misc Bianchi Corsa Bikes
easy off oven cleaner (with lye) will remove that anodized finish in 5 minutes then scrub with steel wool ................ but don't leave it on too long or the part will look like spongebobs skin
01-30-14 | 12:29 PM
#56
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 1,594
From: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
A couple of minor tips that have worked well for me:
a) non-metallic scrapers for nasty stuff: Small bits of formica (softer than steel, stiff and harder than fingernail). I have a few strips about 3/8 inch wide filed to different shapes on each end. I also keep a few bamboo chop sticks around, again ends shaped to different profiles to get into nooks and crannies but too soft to scratch paint or aluminum.
b) I use several of the solvents mentioned before but also keep a little alcohol around both rubbing alcohol and 'meths' - IOW denatured alcohol. The Kleenstrip 'natural' has a higher % of ethanol than most denatured alcohol and will dissolve or loosen things MS or Isopropyl will not. I never slobber this stuff on anything but will dampen a rag to see if it cleans something stubborn.
c) Almost forgot: eyelash brushes - the small round things. Real good for reaching into tight spots (ex RD cages) or for brushing crud out of wee threaded holes.
a) non-metallic scrapers for nasty stuff: Small bits of formica (softer than steel, stiff and harder than fingernail). I have a few strips about 3/8 inch wide filed to different shapes on each end. I also keep a few bamboo chop sticks around, again ends shaped to different profiles to get into nooks and crannies but too soft to scratch paint or aluminum.
b) I use several of the solvents mentioned before but also keep a little alcohol around both rubbing alcohol and 'meths' - IOW denatured alcohol. The Kleenstrip 'natural' has a higher % of ethanol than most denatured alcohol and will dissolve or loosen things MS or Isopropyl will not. I never slobber this stuff on anything but will dampen a rag to see if it cleans something stubborn.
c) Almost forgot: eyelash brushes - the small round things. Real good for reaching into tight spots (ex RD cages) or for brushing crud out of wee threaded holes.
