Hi all:

I started a tune-up of my old Fuji TS IV last night, and discovered the stem is really stuck in the fork steerer tube. I got the wedge nut loose easily enough. But no amount of force has dislodged the stem. I tried some PB blaster, but so far, no luck.

Now to be honest, I don't NEED to remove the stem. So, I'll likely just leave it. The bike's been mine since new (30 years), and it fits me fine. And I can get to the headset bearings with the stem in place. But let's say, for the sake of argument that I wanted to remove it.

The bike is in really good shape, so my preference would be a non-destructive method. I see several references to soaking in ammonia. Would this damage the paint on the frame? If so, are there any other chemical methods I might try?

Similarly, heating the steerer tube is out of the question, as I don't want to repaint it.

I guess my last option would be to cut the stem off, and drill it out of the steerer tube. I can probably buy another stem just like it if I look hard enough. It's an original Nitto, if that matters. But again, I'll likely never need to remove it that badly.

Take it over to [MENTION=109949]wrk101[/MENTION], he is an expert at anything stuck!

Patience, PB Blaster for 3-5 days overnight. You might try tapping it down into the tube too to get it moving.

Well how long can you be without your bike???

I would start by simply plugging the hole where the stem bolt goes in and turning the bike upside down and pouring some non-Solvent based light weight poser oil (WD-40) down the hole between the forks - Now you just Forget About It (this is the hard part)...

If that fails after a few days or weeks then I would try something else down the tube always being careful about what can effect the paint...

The list is long: PB-Blaster, Diesel, Vinegar, CLR....

Don't worry man, unless its been abused its going to come out OK...

I'm with Oddjob.

Time can really help. I've had stuck parts not budge after a quick blast of PB, then I'd give it another blast, gently tap on the part with a hammer, then come back a few days later, more PB, more tapping, etc. And as Zandoval suggests, there's no reason you can't apply the stuff from both ends of the steerer tube.

In the case of one seemingly intractable stem, I think I gave it a week total of this treatment, then set a chunk of 2x4 on the top of the stem to act as a protective pad and banged it down with a 4 lb hammer. Once it goes down a bit, it's free and comes right out.

I'm not sure if this is an April Fool's thread or ??? Have you tried giving the top of the stem a whack with something like a rubber mallet (loosen up the wedge bolt first, of course)? I've read about this and tried it on a bike or two and it worked. Anything beyond that and I defer to the others.

Everything can work, SOMETIMES. Cutting it out works all of the time. 99% of the time, I do not have to cut it out, but I have cut out a handful.

If you are careful, time, a good solvent (think Kroil) and a sturdy bench and vise can work wonders. Securing a fork in a vise can be somewhat tricky (to avoid damaging fork).

It would bother the heck out of me to leave a stuck stem or seatpost without putting up at least a "respectable" fight to try and get it off.. I'd feel like the stem is controlling me instead of me controlling it!
And the longer it stays stuck the more impossible to get it out ever without killing it as you give the stem more time to grip deeper with it's continuously growing corrosive claws into the steering or seat tube.....

EXACTLY!!!

I forgot to mention, I did try whacking the top to dislodge the stem. But it didn't budge. To be fair, I didn't want to brinell the headset bearings (the bike was on the work stand), so didn't hit too hard. I suppose I could support the fork directly beneath the bridge and try again.

I'll keep you posted.

I've had very good luck 'unsticking' stuff with Kroil. Penetrating-Lubricating Oils . Once out, needless to say, a topical application of lithium (white) grease will likely prevent a reoccurrence. Patience is good.

Is this correct?

I have used the white lithium grease on stems and seatposts- but I've also used the bearing grease. What is the best to use in this application?

Here is what you will need to free the stem.

Automatic Transmission Fluid
Acetone
old bicycle tube or other smooth rubber scrap
2x4 pieces, 4" and 24"
old cookie sheet or similar
Hammer

Place the cookie sheet on a concrete floor
Place a 4" piece of 2x4 in the center of the sheet
Place the rubber separator on top of the 2x4
Very lightly snug down the stem bolt
Invert the bike and place the head of the stem bolt on the rubber separator, support the bike so it is stable and the steerer tube is vertical.
Make a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF and mix well
Put approximately 1 shot glass worth of the mix in the bottom of the steerer tube


If the mix can in any way reach the handlebars you may need to remove/unwrap them first or the Wrap may get damaged.

Give this several days before you stand the 24" piece of 2x4 to on a piece of rubber over base of the steerer tube and try to drive the tube down over the stem.

The Cookie sheet protects the floor from the mix, the rubber protects the finish on the stem from the 2x4 pieces.
Time is your friend here, if the mix runs out add more and give it a thump every now and then. You're not trying to sledgehammer it loose just a sharp blow to jar things.

That's my advice and it's worth what you've paid

I don't think there is a 'best'. Even Vaseline will probably work just fine. All you need to do is put something between the dissimilar metals (AL and steel), which, left on their own, with a bit of moisture, develop an unholy relationship.

I have not tried this, but have heard from reliable sources that this is an excellent technique.

I've experienced it. I wish to do my part in preventing it.

Very good description. I'll try that at my next overhaul. Thanks for posting.