Yes. But first, MORE PICS of that fabulous bike…please.

I was simply sharing my experience that overtime, as one develops fitness, a lower and longer position becomes more comfortable. If this isn't your style of riding, sure an upright position makes sense for you.

+ a bazillion.

Nothing to add about riding position- just adding my admiration for the beauty and gracefulness of that bike!

That is a gorgeous classic bike and should stay exactly as it is. It would be terrible to use a riser stem to torture this classy vintage racer into a sit up and beg riding position. So your task, pedalwan, will be to build fitness until you are worthy of the bike.

Okay that is hyperbole, but I do think the answer is to become a stronger, more flexible rider, not to modify the bike to accomodate a weaker, less flexible rider.

Ride more, during those rides vary your position - a few minutes on the tops of the bars, a few on the hoods, a few in the drops - and over time you'll build core strength and flexibility. When you are in the drops, ride harder and in a bigger (harder) gear - the downward force on the pedals helps support your torso and takes some weight off your hands. When you are on the tops, relax in a smaller (easier) gear.

This all assumes the bike is the correct size for you. Which we don't know. If you don't feel better on the bike in another few hundred miles, maybe post selfies on the bike, in the "Fitting" forum, and get fit opinions.

Give me the pain, I'd gladly ride that thing as is

Very nice bike!!! Looks like the sizing is pretty close, so you should be able to tweak it.

Are you riding in the drops all the time? Most bikes (including the pros) are set up for riding on the hoods, which provide comfort for the long haul.

I understand. But my point was that there is a world of space between horizontal torso and "upright".

Dinzdale it sounds like the big issue for you is reach. You didn't say, but I'll assume you are talking about getting into the drops. First thing I would try is rotating the bars down until the bottom section is parallel to ground or nearly so. That will bring drops closer but lower too. Okay that's the quick and easy. IMO though the best answer is get fit at a reputable shop, particularly before buying any parts to fix things.

Last night raised the stem on my old Raleigh. It had been slammed down with the seat well above the bars. That was sort of OK for a ride one day, but the next days ride proved to be very painful for me. Pain in my neck and hands/wrists. I didn't see a minimum insertion line, but will look again to be sure. I raised the bars about 1.5" compared to fully slammed.

As you can see from the thread responses, some adjustments can be made. I hope subtle adjustments make all the difference.

After reading through all of these posts (and riding a little bit more), I realize now that I am probably just really weak. I had a couple of long stretches this winter where I didn't ride at all.

I rode the other night and it felt a little better now that I'm getting used to riding regularly. My hands are still really feeling some pressure in the crook between my thumb and my index finger. I ride in the hoods mostly, but on this bike I seem to have to change hand positions every minute to keep from hurting.

Tonight, I will prop it up in the trainer and get my wife to take a few pictures. I feel like I have to apologize in advance to all of the period-perfect droolers out there! The gum hoods for the original levers were dried out and cracked after sitting for so long without being used. I replaced the levers with a cheap Cane Creek pair and I wrapped the bars in red. I also threw some thick slicks tires on it, because I was in a pinch and they were the cheapest things I could get my hands on (am I disgusting you yet?). To be honest, the tires look like balloons now that I know a little bit more about road bikes in general. The pedals are now Keo Classics so I can use my shoes on it.

Never fear! I saved the levers and the original pedals. I want to preserve this thing, but I also want to ride it.

So, when I post pictures tonight or tomorrow, don't be alarmed. The changes are either temporary, or for my riding comfort.

I was going to recommend some new modern brake levers for the numbness and pain. Then I see you already addressed it.

I think your stem may be a bit too long. The bike is set up similarly to a Bianchi I have that's a bit smaller than I like. The seat height to bar height is not level. So, I'm bent over more and find my neck gets weak and sore on long rides. I prefer a French Fit on classic bikes. I don't see the point of riding uncomfortably. I am not racing.

Looking forward to seeing pics of your 'new' bike.

Actually, those bars are right for the period, when people rode the drops more. They look like 64's, and I really like them. Try coming up a bit on the stem, if you can do so without going below the minimum insertion mark. If you can start with the bars close to level with the saddle, then you can work them down as you get more flexible. I'd actually roll the bars forward a bit, to have the drops level with the ground (and closer to you). In this era, people rode the tops more often than the hoods.

Beautiful bike. Just tweak it a bit. Maybe go 1cm forward on the saddle, but I like a more open position. You'll get used to it.

By the way, you don't have to ship the bike to Ed. I'll come and get it.

Rotfl.

Okay, I just feel like an idiot now.

I had my wife take some pictures of me on the bike and I'll let you be the judge, but it looks like I'm almost too far over the handlebars. It also looks like I'm not in a very aggressive position at all.

Now I'm thinking that I might need to bring the seat back a bit. I might be overthinking it, except my hands still hurt.

Here are the pictures. Let the head bashing begin.



And for the people who just want to look at the bike:

It may be just the angle of the picture but it looks to me like the seat is a little too high. As you mentioned, legs slightly bent with pedal all the way down is a good place to start. But this assumes that the foot is level. It looks to me like your foot may not be level in those pictures: Heel is elevated a little.

Grandpa had great taste!

Brent

In pic 6 that seatpost looks waaaaay up in the air too, and the handlebar dropped much much lower than the saddle.

The overall riding position doesn't look so far out of whack. However you need to decide whether you'll be riding the drops or the hoods. "Most people" not competing (and by that I really mean just myself, and everyone else should do it my way too ) ride the hoods, and go for the drops only when facing a severe wind. If you're going to be on the hoods, rotate the bar so that the drops move away from you and hoods move higher and closer to you; I prefer the reach horizontal, in line with the stem, if for no other reason than for appearance. That will make the pic 6 position much more comfortable.

I'm sorry, it's clearly not the bike for you. I've a friend down in Texas who's most happy to come and box it up for me...

But, seriously, it doesn't look that far off to me. I think the stem is fine - my rule of thumb has been when up on the bars a straight line from eye to front hub would pass thru (or close to) the handlebars. The second seems to have you close to that.

Jealous, jealous, jealous...

Looks like I just need to strengthen up and man up a bit, then. I appreciate your (and everyone's) help.

If you or your friend wants bikes, I've got bikes... nothing near as pretty as this Cinelli, though. My '80 Raleigh Grand Prix and '82-ish Schwinn both need a nice home that'll fix them up and ride them. We're about to move, and I've been told we're not lugging all of my bikes with us.

I agree it looks a little high. Be careful not to rock your hips to "reach" for the pedal. Another decent place to start is sitting on the saddle with your leg straight (but hips level) your heel should just reach the pedal spindle. You may still need a minor adjustment from there.

What a gorgeous bike. Has anyone mentioned that?

Saddle should probably be a bit lower, I agree. When your heels are on the pedals, your legs should be fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but without any hip rocking caused by stretching for the pedals. Right now I bet your hips would have to rock, to keep heels touching pedals.

The reach to the bars looks good. The bars are at a nice level below the saddle for aggressive riding.

From what shows I too think the saddle is too high. I also think there is a good chance it is too far forward. After you get that set right I bet the stem will be too long. You are looking down in both shots, which leads me to think that it is not comfortable to look forward while in the hooks. While on the hoods your arms are not locked, that is good.
There is a bunch of things that I cannot comment on from here including if your cleats are set correctly fore/aft, do your legs take a straight trajectory as you pedal or do they swing out or in.
I would consider sliding up the aero levers a bit on the bars, hopefully the bars are 42 cm wide (ctc)
The nose down orientation of the saddle suggests something is not right there, bad saddle to arse match or height...

In sum, there is a lot that cannot be advised here. You do not look comfortable.
I think it is time to pay to have someone fit you on the bike.
How I would do this today would be to have a selection of bars and stems or an adjustable stem, bars untaped.
Bring all your riding shoes.

One additional comment, when a bike is on a trainer the bike is no longer level, we used to block up the front tire to get that back to road normal or use an old Vetta turbo trainer where the front wheel was removed and the "axle" was set to keep things correct.

The first photo shows you on top of the bottom bar section. Instead, rest you palms forward against the bend. That will make the elbows bend and the torso come down. It may seem uncomfortable at first but that is the correct position for riding in the drops. Your frame looks like a good fit for you and very pretty too. Congrats.

+1, I also suggest some numbers would be useful.

OP, can you measure your

> cycling inseam aka pubic bone height,
> the seat tube length in cm from BB center to center of seat lug OR top of top tube along the seat tube,
> top tube length center to center, and
> saddle height along seat tube, top of saddle down to the center of the BB.

Some assessments consistent with CONI can be made, and are usually good for seeing if you are in the ballpark.

I would not raise your stem or change it at this point - it looks like you are close to the limit of extension for a Cinelli stem of that type and any higher could be unsafe. I also would not lower it seeking comfort until trying to get the saddle right. I would not worry about standover height even if you have a little bit of touching. However if the saddle height you show is in the ballpark, this frame is not far from being ok for you. But more can be said about a conventional fit based on those numbers. You'll still have to optimize from there, but I think I could recommend if the frame is a decent fit for you.

But it it's not good for you and it's a 54 cm c-c, I would be interested in it!

Also in picture 6, it looks like your saddle is not level, the nose looks like it is pointed down. That will definitely place pressure on your hands. In addition to lowering the seat by a centimeter or 2, make sure the saddle is level.