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Choosing a hub set (of two)

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Old 06-18-14 | 06:21 PM
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Choosing a hub set (of two)

I have very few freehub wheels. My bikes mostly run freewheels. BUT I have several NOS hubsets, and I would like some subjective opinions on which are better hubs:

Set aside the issue of cassettes. I have cogs for each.

Yes, one is early Dura-Ace specific Uniglide. It is the EX series 72xx. NOS. Photos attached. I have a back-up set of new axle and cones, to boot.




The other hubsets are 105SC. I have a 32h set and a 36h set. Both sets NOS and 126mm. These are both Uniglide and Hyperglide compatible. Photos attached.




Again, set aside the question of “ease of finding cogs.” I know the difference, and I have sets in hand. The Question is about which hubset is better?

Which is a better hub in terms of construction, race tolerances, and robust performance (engine quality notwithstanding)?

My ambition is to build one of these into a set of riding wheels. I would appreciate comments, suggestions and opinions. Subjective here is good.

Thanks!
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* rebuilt as upright cruiser
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1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
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Old 06-18-14 | 06:40 PM
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dura-ahchae: infinity more cool.
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Old 06-18-14 | 06:49 PM
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Both great, but the DA is worth a whole lot more, Shimano's premium line.
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Old 06-18-14 | 07:13 PM
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The Dura-Ace set will likely have better polished cups and cones, chromed spacers and nuts. And likely a little lighter. And appears to be pearl anodized as compared to the powdercoated 105 shells.

But performance wise, you're splitting hairs with those 105 hubs. I've 1050 105 and these 1055 105 sets. The cups are buttery smooth and polished, and the 1055 does away with the inherent weakness of the plastic dust cap of the 1050.
The 105 sets hold the edge functionality wise. HG cogs, and 7 speed.

I'd build up the Dura Ace set if you don't mind 36H, and try to swap out the freehub body with a 105 freehub. Making the Dura Ace 7 speed and HG compatible.
But bear in mind....one can't really remove the freehub body without the hub laced and built up as a wheel.
The hub shell needs the spokes to secure it in order to torque off the retainer bolt.

If 6 speed isn't a problem, just build up the Dura Ace and ride.
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Old 06-18-14 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by WNG

I'd build up the Dura Ace set if you don't mind 36H, and try to swap out the freehub body with a 105 freehub. Making the Dura Ace 7 speed and HG compatible.
But bear in mind....one can't really remove the freehub body without the hub laced and built up as a wheel.
The hub shell needs the spokes to secure it in order to torque off the retainer bolt.
Mind 36h? I'm old enough that I think 32h is new-fangled...

But swapping the freehub bodies!??!?! I didn't know this was an option! I understand it would be tough to get off, and thus lacing it up first makes sense. Are you certain it would fit / be interchangeable? A true 7-speed DA hub would be a bit nicer than 6-speed. Thank you!
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
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Old 06-18-14 | 08:02 PM
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Most Uniglide hubs will come off easily with a 10 mm allen wrench with a leather lined wood vice. 1st generation Uniglide may require a really odd wrench (11mm?) and may not be upgradable...losing my memory.
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Old 06-18-14 | 08:05 PM
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^An exploded view of the 7200 freehub would verify it. But given the appearance of the hubshell, and the 6 speed body, this DA freehub uses the standardized Shimano freehub design and not the earlier externally splined hubshell. The 7400 series DA used a proprietary freehub body.
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Old 06-19-14 | 08:11 AM
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I have gone back to look at my other 105SC hubset, and it would appear that this set is an earlier example, with a backwardly compatible HG/UG freehub body. If I’m gonna raid one for the Dura-Ace, then I’m guessing this would be more likely to be compatible, yes?

Not only 7 speed, but mix & match cog options, yes?





I don’t have much evidence of exactly what model the Dura-Ace freehub is. Few markings on the shell, either. But I do remember that it is not that early/earliest DA version.



I thought this was an either/or choice, rather than a possible cross-over mating! This would make a fabulous wheel set, me thinks. (Unless someone says they really aren't compatible. . .?)

Thank you, again.
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
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Old 06-19-14 | 08:22 AM
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I'd sell the DA hubs and lace up one of the 105 sets.
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Old 06-19-14 | 09:32 AM
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I'd sell the 105 hubs and lace up the Dura-Ace.
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Old 06-19-14 | 10:23 AM
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Yes, with the freehub body swap, you can mix and match cogs to your desire (6/7, UG, HG)

Here's a quick check if it can be swapped.....
Remove the axles of both hubs by removing NDS nuts and cones.
Pry off the freehub body dust caps (6 speed should be plastic, 7 speed should be the standard stamped steel PITA recessed cap.)
Visually verify both bodies are secured with the same 10mm hollow retainer bolt.
If so, you should be good to go for a swap.
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Old 06-19-14 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by WNG
^An exploded view of the 7200 freehub would verify it. But given the appearance of the hubshell, and the 6 speed body, this DA freehub uses the standardized Shimano freehub design and not the earlier externally splined hubshell. The 7400 series DA used a proprietary freehub body.

I've been hunting for the tech support documents for the 72xx hubs -- with no luck. The Shimano tech library seems to not have them.

Does anybody know a link for these docs? It isn't crucial, but I need all the learning aids I can get!

Thanks.
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
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Old 06-20-14 | 08:31 AM
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I have some info: from a Shimano service manual ©1991 and mainly covers the 7400/7402 DA hubs.
They have one page devoted to early UG body removal, and they show that "for Dura-Ace only", it's a different body to "all other Free Hubs" and requires the special tool (TL-FH10, which looks like a standard bolt) and a vise (you twist the entire laced wheel) to remove. The "other hubs" all use that 10mm Allen key.
Even in the HG section they show the DA 7400 and 7402 hubs (which do NOT seem HG-compatible) as being this same "special tool" body type.
So I'm betting your early DA will NOT swap with a "10mm Allen bolt" style body.
(I really should scan this manual, but it's too big a job: huge binder!)
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Old 06-20-14 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd
I'd sell the DA hubs and lace up one of the 105 sets.
Originally Posted by Zaphod Beeblebrox
I'd sell the 105 hubs and lace up the Dura-Ace.
I'd sell both and buy something better.
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Old 06-20-14 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by unworthy1
I have some info: from a Shimano service manual ©1991 and mainly covers the 7400/7402 DA hubs.
They have one page devoted to early UG body removal, and they show that "for Dura-Ace only", it's a different body to "all other Free Hubs" and requires the special tool (TL-FH10, which looks like a standard bolt) and a vise (you twist the entire laced wheel) to remove. The "other hubs" all use that 10mm Allen key.
Even in the HG section they show the DA 7400 and 7402 hubs (which do NOT seem HG-compatible) as being this same "special tool" body type.
So I'm betting your early DA will NOT swap with a "10mm Allen bolt" style body.
(I really should scan this manual, but it's too big a job: huge binder!)

IIRC, but I may not, the EX FH-7250 & FH-7260 were not the same as the 7400 series that were targeted at the emergent MTB crowd. SO, it seems that I'll get this apart within the next day or two to look see.

But I'd sure love to find a tech document for the 72xx hubs to help. . .
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
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Old 06-20-14 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
I'd sell both and buy something better.
Okay, I'll bite. For 126mm rear (most of my bikes are 120mm or 126mm), what would you suggest?
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
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Old 06-20-14 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by LeicaLad
Okay, I'll bite. For 126mm rear (most of my bikes are 120mm or 126mm), what would you suggest?
I'm probably not the best person to listen to but I wouldn't let any 130mm hub stop you (for the 126mm bikes, not sure about spreading the 120mm that far). And at that point the possibilities really open up.
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Old 06-20-14 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LeicaLad
Okay, I'll bite. For 126mm rear (most of my bikes are 120mm or 126mm), what would you suggest?
That's the main reason for keeping them..it's getting rare to find NOS mid/high level 7 speed 126mm freehubs. They make excellent upgrades to old vintage bikes with conventional rear hubs.

BTW, if you have a small bright flashlight and your eyesight is good...you can probably skip removing the body dust caps and simply look down into the body for the 10mm bolt.

Last edited by WNG; 06-20-14 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 06-20-14 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by WNG
That's the main reason for keeping them..it's getting rare to find NOS mid/high level 7 speed 126mm freehubs. They make excellent upgrades to old vintage bikes with conventional rear hubs.

BTW, if you have a small bright flashlight and your eyesight is good...you can probably skip removing the body dust caps and simply look down into the body for the 10mm bolt.
Precisely the point. I like my 126mm bikes. If I wanted another bike, it'd probably be either 120mm or 126mm to begin with.

My alternatives at hand include:

1) Phil Hi-Low set


or

2) Suzue Hi flanged



But one wheel set is gonna be built with the Dura-Ace @ 7 speed. I didn't get time last night (the wife has lists. . .), but will start by peering down inside.

Thanks.
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
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