Steel or carbon? Rivendell philosophy or??
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Ritchey Road Logic frameset that I built up myself.
I built it with a full 6800 Ultegra groupset, Ritchey WCS Alloy stem/handlebars + Thomson Elite seatpost. Wheelset is 36h Velocity Deep-V with Ultegra 6800 hubs. I could save another pound easily by replacing the wheelset with something light.
Cost to me was ~ $2300, but this was sourcing all the parts as cheaply as I could and doing the full build myself.
EDIT: He's a recent photo of said bike:
I built it with a full 6800 Ultegra groupset, Ritchey WCS Alloy stem/handlebars + Thomson Elite seatpost. Wheelset is 36h Velocity Deep-V with Ultegra 6800 hubs. I could save another pound easily by replacing the wheelset with something light.
Cost to me was ~ $2300, but this was sourcing all the parts as cheaply as I could and doing the full build myself.
EDIT: He's a recent photo of said bike:
That looks to be my size, you should send it to me.
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#29
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I have a Gunnar Sport, and love it. I've ridden it across Italy, from the Adriatic to the Med.
Yes, it's expensive, and I don't regret a penny of it. If I made a list of the top 5 best things I ever bought, the Sport would be high on the list.
https://gunnarbikes.com/site/bikes/sport/
https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/fr...5_2493crx.aspx
Yes, it's expensive, and I don't regret a penny of it. If I made a list of the top 5 best things I ever bought, the Sport would be high on the list.
https://gunnarbikes.com/site/bikes/sport/
https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/fr...5_2493crx.aspx
Last edited by late; 05-24-16 at 12:41 PM.
#30
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Personally, I ride carbon and aluminum frames and love them. I'm not a fan of steel; too heavy and too flexible in my experience. Aluminum frames work well with carbon fiber forks and slightly wider tires. My aluminum touring bike wears 700x32 tires and rides like a dream! Since it sounds like you don't have a whole lot of experience with bikes, I'd encourage you to ride a number of different models including those with different components and frame materials. I always tell my friends that they should ride at least one bike that's way out of their price range. You'll get a feel for what more expensive components and exotic frame materials are like and whether spending more money would provide any benefits you can discern. Since your budget sounds like it's $1200-1500 see if you can get a ride on a $2500-3000 bike. If you can't feel a difference, don't spend the money!
FYI, when you go shopping tell the salesman that you're interested in an "endurance geometry" bike (as opposed to a "race geometry" bike). That will likely make a lot more difference to your comfort than which frame material you choose. In the Specialized line-up, the Roubaix is their endurance geometry carbon fiber bike. The Secteur used to be the aluminum equivalent of the Roubaix, but it looks like it's been dropped. The Diverge is an aluminum frame that accepts wide tires, but the geometry looks a bit racey to me. For Fuji, you want the Gran Fondo (carbon) or Sportif (aluminum).
FYI, when you go shopping tell the salesman that you're interested in an "endurance geometry" bike (as opposed to a "race geometry" bike). That will likely make a lot more difference to your comfort than which frame material you choose. In the Specialized line-up, the Roubaix is their endurance geometry carbon fiber bike. The Secteur used to be the aluminum equivalent of the Roubaix, but it looks like it's been dropped. The Diverge is an aluminum frame that accepts wide tires, but the geometry looks a bit racey to me. For Fuji, you want the Gran Fondo (carbon) or Sportif (aluminum).
My perspective: I rode pro-level steel bikes from 1965 to 2005. Now all I ride are aluminum bikes. There's nothing wrong with the ride of a well-designed steel bike, but the same is true of well-designed aluminum and carbon bikes.
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I'm a fan of carbon, well engineered carbon is great. Stick with the big companies as they do the engineering work and also offer a lifetime warranty if ever needed.
Plus its 4-5 pounds lighter than steel w/ same grouppo and wheels
Plus its 4-5 pounds lighter than steel w/ same grouppo and wheels
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I even tour on aluminum and have for the last 13 years.
Looking for some helpful guidance and tips... here's my situation...
A) I'm 56, 6'-2" and 255, in pretty good shape w/no limitations physically.
B) I've been riding a '83 Trek 400 for the past few years. I ride alone generally, once or twice a week as far as 35 miles. I want a bike that's lighter and has better, more modern components.
C) I've read and like a lot of the Rivendell philosophy, yet my 12 year younger brother rides a Felt carbon bike in group settings and LOVES it, so I'm torn... I've ruled an aluminum bike out. I'm gonna either get a carbon or a steel frame bike.
The Rivendell Roadeo weighs around 20 lbs. I don't wanna pay $3,700 for one, though!
Are there any other "light" steel bike alternatives that are less money?
Or should I say the heck with steel and go for a carbon instead? I'm okay with spending $1,200 for the right bike... maybe $1,500 or $2,000 if I was really impressed.
Oh, here's the last part... I live in Albany, GA, not exactly a hotbed of bike activity. We have 2 shops here, both very small... one is a Fuji dealer, the other is a Specialized dealer.
A lot of the bikes I'm looking at are on Craigslist and are anywhere from 90 miles to 200 miles away.
Thanks for your tips and thoughts,
Gary
A) I'm 56, 6'-2" and 255, in pretty good shape w/no limitations physically.
B) I've been riding a '83 Trek 400 for the past few years. I ride alone generally, once or twice a week as far as 35 miles. I want a bike that's lighter and has better, more modern components.
C) I've read and like a lot of the Rivendell philosophy, yet my 12 year younger brother rides a Felt carbon bike in group settings and LOVES it, so I'm torn... I've ruled an aluminum bike out. I'm gonna either get a carbon or a steel frame bike.
The Rivendell Roadeo weighs around 20 lbs. I don't wanna pay $3,700 for one, though!
Are there any other "light" steel bike alternatives that are less money?
Or should I say the heck with steel and go for a carbon instead? I'm okay with spending $1,200 for the right bike... maybe $1,500 or $2,000 if I was really impressed.
Oh, here's the last part... I live in Albany, GA, not exactly a hotbed of bike activity. We have 2 shops here, both very small... one is a Fuji dealer, the other is a Specialized dealer.
A lot of the bikes I'm looking at are on Craigslist and are anywhere from 90 miles to 200 miles away.
Thanks for your tips and thoughts,
Gary
Don't sell aluminum short. People get all wiggy about aluminum and spread all kinds of untruths about the material. It isn't brittle. It isn't prone to breaking. It won't "shatter like a piece of glass". It's a good material if you can't afford titanium or carbon. I have a Cannondale Synapse that is relatively light for a bike with Sora components (22 lbs) and it rides like a dream. It doesn't have a harsh ride either.
More importantly, a Synapse 7 alloy is in (or below) the $1200 price range you are looking at...$950 at REI. A Synapse Carbon with similar components is $1800 retail.
And if you are really worried about the durability of aluminum, what parts are you willing to give up to avoid using it? Handlebars, seatpost, wheels, hubs, crank...i.e. just about everything you bolt to the bike.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#33
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That's not true. Maybe it once was, but not with modern steel. Not to mention, a 250 lb rider doesn't need to be on a ultra light carbon bike anyway. They weren't made for them.
OP, careful here. This poster is known for giving bad advice around here.
There's nothing wrong with aluminum durability, it just rides crappy compared to a good steel bike.
Titanium is also a good option as mentioned earlier, but I vote steel over that personally. I don't think you would go wrong with either.
I don't think you can go wrong with any of it. If you haven't ridden anything but aluminum, it will seem perfect. Then you ride carbon and you don't want to ride aluminum anymore. Same with titanium, same with steel. Lots of folks haven't ridden a nice modern steel bike to know the difference.
Here's a good excerpt from Black Mountain Cycles that sums it up nicely:
Why steel frames?
Every time someone jumps on a steel bike after spending years on an aluminum beast or waif-like carbon bike, the rider comment of “wow, that rides really nice” is heard. Steel has been around forever as a frame material. Its properties are incredibly well documented. The life-span of steel is well known. It’s a frame that doesn’t necessarily have to be handled with kid gloves. So, while every big bike manufacturer is spending countless dollars developing the next big thing, steel quietly rolls under the many bicycle aficionados as the material of choice that never went out of style.
OP, careful here. This poster is known for giving bad advice around here.
There's nothing wrong with aluminum durability, it just rides crappy compared to a good steel bike.
Titanium is also a good option as mentioned earlier, but I vote steel over that personally. I don't think you would go wrong with either.
I don't think you can go wrong with any of it. If you haven't ridden anything but aluminum, it will seem perfect. Then you ride carbon and you don't want to ride aluminum anymore. Same with titanium, same with steel. Lots of folks haven't ridden a nice modern steel bike to know the difference.
Here's a good excerpt from Black Mountain Cycles that sums it up nicely:
Why steel frames?
Every time someone jumps on a steel bike after spending years on an aluminum beast or waif-like carbon bike, the rider comment of “wow, that rides really nice” is heard. Steel has been around forever as a frame material. Its properties are incredibly well documented. The life-span of steel is well known. It’s a frame that doesn’t necessarily have to be handled with kid gloves. So, while every big bike manufacturer is spending countless dollars developing the next big thing, steel quietly rolls under the many bicycle aficionados as the material of choice that never went out of style.
#34
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Jarrett, thanks for all of your input! My biking brother has read this thread and he liked your input a lot.
I appreciate everyone's thoughts here, also. LOTS of good stuff to think about and consider.
Where does a Sully Cross Check fit in the general scheme? My brother found one tonight - a 2015 model - that the owner is selling for $700 OBO... decent components and the right size. He's gonna go check it out on Thursday (he talked to the owner on the phone tonight) and said he might buy it for himself if I don't want it (we ride the same size).
Gary
I appreciate everyone's thoughts here, also. LOTS of good stuff to think about and consider.
Where does a Sully Cross Check fit in the general scheme? My brother found one tonight - a 2015 model - that the owner is selling for $700 OBO... decent components and the right size. He's gonna go check it out on Thursday (he talked to the owner on the phone tonight) and said he might buy it for himself if I don't want it (we ride the same size).
Gary
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Surly Cross Check is a nice steel bike:
Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes
It's going to be a little heavier than the other ones that have been mentioned. The tires that come on it stock are made more for gravel grinding, but a swap to a smaller road tire would change the feel of the bike significantly. You could take it off road some as well as on road. That's a plus if you want one do all kind of bike.
Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes
It's going to be a little heavier than the other ones that have been mentioned. The tires that come on it stock are made more for gravel grinding, but a swap to a smaller road tire would change the feel of the bike significantly. You could take it off road some as well as on road. That's a plus if you want one do all kind of bike.
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Steel may be real to some, but it's heavy as **** and flexes where I don't want it too. Not in a road bike. Maybe a MTB bike but still heavy as $hit and taxes you on the steeper dirt climbs. Been there, done that, won't do again..ever
Most of what a rider "feels" is from the bike fit, wheel build, tires and pressure used. The wallet can feel the rest
Most of what a rider "feels" is from the bike fit, wheel build, tires and pressure used. The wallet can feel the rest
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Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
#38
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#39
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OP, purchase a quality bike and don't worry about the material it's made of too much. It really makes little difference when other factors are just as important if not more so. Wheels, tires and more are what you should look into more than steel or not steel.
Additionally, many of the shills for steel here own steel bikes and have no choice than to tell you how great they are, if only to justify their own purchase.
Additionally, many of the shills for steel here own steel bikes and have no choice than to tell you how great they are, if only to justify their own purchase.
#40
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There's nothing wrong with aluminum durability, it just rides crappy compared to a good steel bike.
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With all the considerations in a bike purchase IMHO frame material is just one. As for steel bike shopping Iv explored most of Ohio, Michigan, and Indiana test riding all kinds of bikes from $600 at first to $2500 recently and steel was not even in the picture.
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Some people say flex, but I can only assume they haven't ridden a modern steel bike lately. I'm a 280 lb rider with 327 FTP (last time I checked) and I can't detect flex on my steel bikes, even on the 13-14% climbs down the street from my house. If that flex was an issue, I wouldn't be able to power up those hills with out rubbing or shifting problems and they simply don't exist on my steel bikes.
The other downside is perception. As you see here, people who like steel bikes tend to be considered Kool Aid drinkers or Luddites and don't get to participate in the ego massaging that comes along with buying and showing off the latest and greatest carbon fiber design. You don't show up to a group ride with a new steel bike and get the ooh's and aah's like you do if you show up with this year's fancy carbon shape. The upside to that is your steel bike won't look obsolete next year when the new carbon fiber designs hit the shelves and the marketing drive begins.
Another positive for steel is more in the peace of mind department. Knowing that Specialized has a weight limit of 240 lbs on their bikes and riding one when you weigh more than that, there is a thought in the back of you mind that you are going to crack the carbon fiber. And people do. I know several folks that have chips and cracks in their carbon frames. Some that have had them replaced due to cracking and they are a lot lighter than me.
Every time my Roubiax would creak or bump into something, I felt like I had to go over it with a magnifying glass to make sure no cracking issues had started. If you search these forums you find a lot of posts where people post a chip in their carbon fiber frames and ask, "Is this bad?!" With steel, I don't worry about that at all. I just ride and enjoy the ride. If the bike accidentally falls over, so what? It might chip the paint at best.
The weight is a non issue as a 250+ lb rider doesn't need to be on a ultra light frame of any material. When you can easily build a 18 lb steel bike, that's really as light as a 250+ lb rider needs, in my opinion.
In fact, you go back to 2014, you will find me posting on here talking about how great carbon fiber bikes are compared to aluminum. I couldn't believe how much better that my Roubaix rode than my Secteur on chipseal roads. If you are familiar with them, the Roubaix and Secteur have the exact same geometry, but the Roubaix is carbon fiber and the Secteur is aluminum. People say frame material doesn't matter, but owning and riding those two bikes made it clear to me that frame material does matter.
One thing to point out here is if you only ride on smooth roads, none of this will make a huge difference. Once you get off the bike trail and start riding out of the city streets and onto rougher country roads, these differences really start to manifest.
While I was happy with my carbon fiber discovery, I goofed up and rode a modern steel bike back to back with my carbon fiber over a long weekend trip. Similar to going from aluminum to carbon fiber, riding steel was an improvement in the way the bike felt and I was hooked.
Here are a couple of pics about the weight thing:
This is a cutting edge, latest and greatest, $5600, size 56 Specialized Roubaix that has a max weight limit of 240 lbs and will likely be an outdated design in a couple of years. This is the type of road bike a dealer will put a 250 lb rider on if they walked into their store:
This is my considerably less expensive, size 58 steel bike with a heavier groupset on it:
Does that look like 4-5 lbs difference? I've ridden both frames and my steel rides better, imo.
#44
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OP, purchase a quality bike and don't worry about the material it's made of too much. It really makes little difference when other factors are just as important if not more so. Wheels, tires and more are what you should look into more than steel or not steel.
Additionally, many of the shills for steel here own steel bikes and have no choice than to tell you how great they are, if only to justify their own purchase.
Additionally, many of the shills for steel here own steel bikes and have no choice than to tell you how great they are, if only to justify their own purchase.
For the record, I've never owned a CF bike, so you'll see that I never, ever, bad mouth or comment on the quality of CF bikes on BF. I only speak about my own personal experience.
#45
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I know, its hard to justify, but there are numbers and they don't lie.
Don't forget the price difference as well. At least half if not more for a bike that weighs roughly the same.
But hey, for $5600, you get a nice pencil holder built right into the side of the down tube on the Roubiax
#46
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Here's a good excerpt from Black Mountain Cycles that sums it up nicely:
Why steel frames?
Every time someone jumps on a steel bike after spending years on an aluminum beast or waif-like carbon bike, the rider comment of “wow, that rides really nice” is heard. Steel has been around forever as a frame material. Its properties are incredibly well documented. The life-span of steel is well known. It’s a frame that doesn’t necessarily have to be handled with kid gloves. So, while every big bike manufacturer is spending countless dollars developing the next big thing, steel quietly rolls under the many bicycle aficionados as the material of choice that never went out of style.
Why steel frames?
Every time someone jumps on a steel bike after spending years on an aluminum beast or waif-like carbon bike, the rider comment of “wow, that rides really nice” is heard. Steel has been around forever as a frame material. Its properties are incredibly well documented. The life-span of steel is well known. It’s a frame that doesn’t necessarily have to be handled with kid gloves. So, while every big bike manufacturer is spending countless dollars developing the next big thing, steel quietly rolls under the many bicycle aficionados as the material of choice that never went out of style.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#47
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#48
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I apologize, it was a little over the top. Suffice to say we disagree on a lot of things related to cycling.
We agree there. Titanium feels like aluminum to me too.
We agree there. Titanium feels like aluminum to me too.
#49
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Frankly, I don't mind disagreements. If we all agreed on everything, there'd be nothing to learn.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#50
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Total Bike Forums newbie here (this is my 2nd post!) but I'd say maybe take a look at the Jamis Quest Elite. The 56cm I tried weighed 21lbs including test ride pedals. About $1800 with a Reynolds 631 steel frame and a Shimano 105 groupset. The brakes are out of group, but I think that's mainly for wider tire clearance. Overall I found it to be an awesome bike with a smooth ride.