Broke down and ordered a dynamo light system
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Broke down and ordered a dynamo light system
I've been a proponent and user of rechargeable LED lights for many years, but finally broke down and ordered a dynamo wheel and light system recently. It doesn't really make sense financially but I am just ready to try out some new gadgets. Rechargeable LED lights have worked well for me because they are inexpensive and easy to switch among bikes, and I commute on 5 different bikes. However, I have been commuting more and more frequently on a single bike, my Bob Jackson World Tour, because it is set up best for that purpose, with a rear rack, fenders and triple drive train.
What prompted the switch was a spare rear wheel that I've had hanging in the garage for a while, and my initial plan to buy a front wheel to match it, so I would have a backup wheel set for commuting. That got me thinking: Why not get a dynamo front wheel for an extra $100 or so? Of course, by the time I added a dynamo headlight, taillight, etc., it ended up costing me much more.
My spare wheel was built for touring/commuting with a strong Velocity Dyad rim, Ultegra hub and 36 spokes. The new dynamo front wheel will have a Dyad rim, Shutter Precision SP-8 hub and 32 spokes. Initially I was going to order a relatively inexpensive headlight but ultimately decided to get a B&M Luxos U headlight because it has a USB port for charging electronic gear such as smart phones. This set up will allow me to use my iPhone for navigation and tracking rides without using up the battery, a feature that I would like for touring. I also ordered a B&M taillight that will mount to my rear rack. The Luxos costs twice as much as the light that I was initially going to get, but actually costs less than buying a less expensive light along with a separate USB charging unit.
One of the reasons why I have hesitated buying a dynamo system was the additional weight from the front hub. However, I will be removing the Nitto front rack from my bike when I install the new dynamo wheel, so it actually might be a little bit lighter weight. I've also been concerned about the dynamo wheel slowing me down, but the SP hub is supposed to be very low drag.
I'll post some photos and a review once I get the new system installed and operated.
What prompted the switch was a spare rear wheel that I've had hanging in the garage for a while, and my initial plan to buy a front wheel to match it, so I would have a backup wheel set for commuting. That got me thinking: Why not get a dynamo front wheel for an extra $100 or so? Of course, by the time I added a dynamo headlight, taillight, etc., it ended up costing me much more.
My spare wheel was built for touring/commuting with a strong Velocity Dyad rim, Ultegra hub and 36 spokes. The new dynamo front wheel will have a Dyad rim, Shutter Precision SP-8 hub and 32 spokes. Initially I was going to order a relatively inexpensive headlight but ultimately decided to get a B&M Luxos U headlight because it has a USB port for charging electronic gear such as smart phones. This set up will allow me to use my iPhone for navigation and tracking rides without using up the battery, a feature that I would like for touring. I also ordered a B&M taillight that will mount to my rear rack. The Luxos costs twice as much as the light that I was initially going to get, but actually costs less than buying a less expensive light along with a separate USB charging unit.
One of the reasons why I have hesitated buying a dynamo system was the additional weight from the front hub. However, I will be removing the Nitto front rack from my bike when I install the new dynamo wheel, so it actually might be a little bit lighter weight. I've also been concerned about the dynamo wheel slowing me down, but the SP hub is supposed to be very low drag.
I'll post some photos and a review once I get the new system installed and operated.
#6
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Welcome to the "light side".
Drag is a non-issue. My Schmidt eDelux has an ambient light sensor that turns it on and off. There is no noticeable difference simply because I've gone under a bridge and the light turned itself on, or when I come out and it turns itself off. My Luxos-U has a bar-mounted remote switch. I feel no change when I flick that light on manually either.
Weight, well I know NC is hillier than the ancient lake bed where I live, so it may impact you differently. But still, it's no more than a second water bottle. (And if I had a dollar for everything on my commuters that weighs no more than a second bottle, I could afford a coffee at Starbucks.)
Be advised, the Luxos-U is not completely waterproof. If water gets into the jack where the bar-mount thumb switch/USB port plugs in, it effectively becomes a disco light show until it drains its battery and the jack dries out. It helps to run the wire down under the light, then back up, forming a drip loop under the light. Unplugging the remote switch and using the rubber plug is not an effective countermeasure, since it doesn't fit tight enough to prevent wicking water in. What I've found it that leaving the jack open--nothing plugged in at all--works best in the rain.
Drag is a non-issue. My Schmidt eDelux has an ambient light sensor that turns it on and off. There is no noticeable difference simply because I've gone under a bridge and the light turned itself on, or when I come out and it turns itself off. My Luxos-U has a bar-mounted remote switch. I feel no change when I flick that light on manually either.
Weight, well I know NC is hillier than the ancient lake bed where I live, so it may impact you differently. But still, it's no more than a second water bottle. (And if I had a dollar for everything on my commuters that weighs no more than a second bottle, I could afford a coffee at Starbucks.)
Be advised, the Luxos-U is not completely waterproof. If water gets into the jack where the bar-mount thumb switch/USB port plugs in, it effectively becomes a disco light show until it drains its battery and the jack dries out. It helps to run the wire down under the light, then back up, forming a drip loop under the light. Unplugging the remote switch and using the rubber plug is not an effective countermeasure, since it doesn't fit tight enough to prevent wicking water in. What I've found it that leaving the jack open--nothing plugged in at all--works best in the rain.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,977
Likes: 5
From: Columbia, SC
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4 Rival; 2014 Cannondale Trail 7 29; 1972 Schwinn Suburban, 1996 Proflex 756, 1987(?) Peugeot, Dahon Speed P8; 1979 Raleigh Competition GS; 1995 Stumpjumper M2 FS, 1978 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Prologue
Cool! I'm sticking with rechargables. I just don't seem to ride in the dark all that much. I think I want to add a helmet mounted light this year, as I discovered last year riding on certain roads it is a little disconcerting not being able to see into the trees
#8
GATC

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,840
Likes: 186
From: south Puget Sound
Congrats! I love my dynamo lights. Neither a fancy schmidt hub nor a bottom dollar shimano hub give any noticeable drag at all on the bikes they are on. I don't bother turning the lights off.
I am thinking about a dynamo wheel for a 3rd bike, my relatively sprightly Traitor (in the picture), which I am considering turning into a year-rounder with fenders and lights. Fork crown is about the only place to put a light on it, and if I'm doing that, why not a dynamo hub...
I am thinking about a dynamo wheel for a 3rd bike, my relatively sprightly Traitor (in the picture), which I am considering turning into a year-rounder with fenders and lights. Fork crown is about the only place to put a light on it, and if I'm doing that, why not a dynamo hub...
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Thanks for the suggestions, tsl. I try not to ride in the rain, but it is unavoidable at times, so I will heed your recommendations when installing the light.
I run my headlights and taillights while commuting in daylight as well as dark, which is one reason my the dynamo appeals to me. I'm looking forward to using it, but it might be a few weeks until I receive the light and wheel and get everything installed. The wheel is a custom build.
I run my headlights and taillights while commuting in daylight as well as dark, which is one reason my the dynamo appeals to me. I'm looking forward to using it, but it might be a few weeks until I receive the light and wheel and get everything installed. The wheel is a custom build.
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 9,685
Likes: 2,603
From: northern Deep South
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
I think you'll enjoy it, and even more when winter comes. I've been trying to decide if it's worth it to upgrade my Cyo to either a Luxos or Edelux II. Neat gadget, visibly brighter on brevets, and around $100 if I order from Europe...
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
From: Waterloo, ON
Bikes: Surly Krampus
When I first got my Edelux II, I regretted not getting a Luxos U for the usb port. But now that I've switched to a Galaxy S6, my original choice is just as well.
While most phones take a 5V charge, the S6 takes 9V. I don't even think there's a regulator out there I can use.
I also took to turning off the light when I lock up. It's amazing how many people will really inconvenience themselves to let me know I left my light on.
While most phones take a 5V charge, the S6 takes 9V. I don't even think there's a regulator out there I can use.
I also took to turning off the light when I lock up. It's amazing how many people will really inconvenience themselves to let me know I left my light on.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
Be advised, the Luxos-U is not completely waterproof. If water gets into the jack where the bar-mount thumb switch/USB port plugs in, it effectively becomes a disco light show until it drains its battery and the jack dries out. It helps to run the wire down under the light, then back up, forming a drip loop under the light. Unplugging the remote switch and using the rubber plug is not an effective countermeasure, since it doesn't fit tight enough to prevent wicking water in. What I've found it that leaving the jack open--nothing plugged in at all--works best in the rain.
#14
?
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,775
Likes: 0
You're going to be disappointed with the brightness of the Luxos versus your battery lights, but the convenience of dynamo lighting cannot be matched.
Here's my dynamo wheel collection.

2 Shimano Deore XT T785, Shimano Deore LX T665, SP Dynamo PD-8, and Shimano Capreo F703.
Battery lights go on the mountain bike.
Here's my dynamo wheel collection.
2 Shimano Deore XT T785, Shimano Deore LX T665, SP Dynamo PD-8, and Shimano Capreo F703.
Battery lights go on the mountain bike.
#15
Not quite there yet
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 999
Likes: 2
From: Monkey Bottom, NC
Bikes: A bunch of old steel bikes + an ICE trike
Thanks for the suggestions, tsl. I try not to ride in the rain, but it is unavoidable at times, so I will heed your recommendations when installing the light.
I run my headlights and taillights while commuting in daylight as well as dark, which is one reason my the dynamo appeals to me. I'm looking forward to using it, but it might be a few weeks until I receive the light and wheel and get everything installed. The wheel is a custom build.
I run my headlights and taillights while commuting in daylight as well as dark, which is one reason my the dynamo appeals to me. I'm looking forward to using it, but it might be a few weeks until I receive the light and wheel and get everything installed. The wheel is a custom build.
#16
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 70
From: Kansas
Bikes: This list got too long: several ‘bents, an urban utility e-bike, and a dahon D7 that my daughter has absconded with.
I am also no proponent of dynamo lights. At the same time I have one on my primary commuter. Like many others here I leave it on all the time. It might help others see me in the daytime as well as at night. With the hub I currently have, I am not noticing the drag.
Like someone else has suggested, you might want to use your battery light when it starts getting dark on the way home; but the dynamo light is a good addition and backup.
Post a follow up letting us know how it compares.
Like someone else has suggested, you might want to use your battery light when it starts getting dark on the way home; but the dynamo light is a good addition and backup.
Post a follow up letting us know how it compares.
#17
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
#18
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Thanks for the suggestions, tsl. I try not to ride in the rain, but it is unavoidable at times, so I will heed your recommendations when installing the light.
I run my headlights and taillights while commuting in daylight as well as dark, which is one reason my the dynamo appeals to me.
I run my headlights and taillights while commuting in daylight as well as dark, which is one reason my the dynamo appeals to me.
Either way, the Luxos-U is a decent daytime running light. So is the B&M Toplight Line Plus Brake at the back. Is that the taillight you ordered?
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
#20
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Good news on the improvements in wiring. I have good night-vision, so I am not one of those cyclists who need 1000 lumens to see the road. My main LED light is rated at 850 lumens max, but I rarely ever run it on high, generally on medium or low, which I think are 500 and 300 lumens respectively. So, I am hoping that I will not experience in degradation in lighting. Also, I plan to continue using my helmet light, which adds another 100-150 lumens. The taillight that I ordered is the B&M Toplight Line Plus, without the brake light feature.
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
Good news on the improvements in wiring. I have good night-vision, so I am not one of those cyclists who need 1000 lumens to see the road. My main LED light is rated at 850 lumens max, but I rarely ever run it on high, generally on medium or low, which I think are 500 and 300 lumens respectively. So, I am hoping that I will not experience in degradation in lighting. Also, I plan to continue using my helmet light, which adds another 100-150 lumens. The taillight that I ordered is the B&M Toplight Line Plus, without the brake light feature.
#22
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Good news on the improvements in wiring. I have good night-vision, so I am not one of those cyclists who need 1000 lumens to see the road. My main LED light is rated at 850 lumens max, but I rarely ever run it on high, generally on medium or low, which I think are 500 and 300 lumens respectively. So, I am hoping that I will not experience in degradation in lighting. Also, I plan to continue using my helmet light, which adds another 100-150 lumens. The taillight that I ordered is the B&M Toplight Line Plus, without the brake light feature.
As a long-term owner of both the original Schmidt Edelux and the original non-waterproof Luxos-U, I can say that whatever the rated output is of these lights, it is perfectly adequate for me at speeds of up to 20 or so. The Edelux has a little better "throw", so I'd put that one at about 25 MPH. But the wider beam of the Luxos is nice in the city.
By using the optics to put the light on the road instead of in the trees above and the front porches of passing houses, they need less total output.
Neither light will zot the eyes out of peds on the bike path, let alone oncoming traffic in the street. Yet, both lights get me respected by motorists on conflicting courses, especially those who would otherwise pull out in front of me.
For the record, I keep mine aimed so that the cut-off hits the road three to five seconds in front of me at my typical cruising speed of 18-20. That's my minimum comfortable distance, and it's farther than you might think, in the range of 100-150 feet. My typical cadence is 90, so I've timed it by counting seven to 10 pedal strokes (one side only), thus these are only estimates.
In any event, despite aging eyes, both lights let me see an adequate distance down the road in everything from brightly lit urban streets, to starlight alone out on the MUP.
#23
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN
While my Edelux II is good enough for most situations, it hasn't been ideal for everything.
For the 10-20% of my riding with really bad lighting (a mix of curvy trail with bright streetlights and completely dark areas), the best light I've found so far is the Light and Motion Taz. It's bright enough to light up the road like daylight and the color of light it puts out is really excellent on the eyes - but it doesn't have as much throw as I would ideally like.
The best like I've found for throw is the Phillips Saferide. It's also very good for the color and light out put it puts out. It's not as good on corners though.
Neither light has the runtime I would prefer - 1.5 hours on high for both.
I haven't been able to find anything that has good color output, a lot of throw down the road, as bright on the road as daylight, and doesn't blind people (by blind I don't mean annoy, I mean so bright people clear out in front of me and curse at me and look like they want to throw something at me - the result of a wide beam mountain bike light). The Phillips Saferide is the best compromise I've found so far for the worst lighting conditions. What have you found that works well for you?
#24
?
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,775
Likes: 0
I haven't been able to find anything that has good color output, a lot of throw down the road, as bright on the road as daylight, and doesn't blind people (by blind I don't mean annoy, I mean so bright people clear out in front of me and curse at me and look like they want to throw something at me - the result of a wide beam mountain bike light). The Phillips Saferide is the best compromise I've found so far for the worst lighting conditions. What have you found that works well for you?
Having lights as bright as off-roading lights and not having to charge them is really really superb.
For people talking about blinding others on bike paths, how about.... stop riding your bike on MUPs?
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN




