So, bad idea to try and use a Nexus-based wheel on my MTB for singletrack riding? I'm more into cross-country-style riding and don't do many jumps and drops. Or how about for a non-racing cyclocross set-up?

I'm thinking right now about buying a singlespeed 29er frame or singlespeed cyclocross frame and having an extra rear wheel built with a Nexus hub for some versatility.

Also, are there any disc-compatible internal hubs out there besides the Rohloff (assuming Rohloff even makes one)?

I really don't know what would happen with a Nexus offroad. I know Sheldon used to ride his SA 3-speed hub offroad. You might fire off an email to him and he might be able to give you a better sense since he's such a big hub gear fan.

Anyone using the Schlumph BB out there?
I'd love to go internal on my xtra but want the wider gear range. It just seems like a big mechanical installation and i'm hesitant.

Have you mated it with an internal rear hub? I like the idea of progressive gearing without lots of crossover gears. It makes sense to have a high speed and a slow speed.

Side question... i've seen pics of gear boxes for mtb bikes, 7 speed shifters that sit in the triangle and eliminate the derailer. I wondered why the conventional approach to gearing with cogs instead of a closed system in the same area. Seems like an internal hub would be a perfect prebuilt solution but i hav'nt seen any other attempts other than the schlumpfh. And they're just too hard to spell.

I'm narrowing my choices down. I live in a fairly flat terrain. I like the idea of at least a 3 speed hub but would a single speed be my best choice?

There are some interesting comments, and good information, about hub gears.

I'll add that the 7- and 8-speed Shimano hubs are high quality. The low end on the 8-speed is pretty low, ~24", as I recall. They are serious possibilities for multi-speed bikes, even in hilly areas.

There is some friction loss in hub gears compared to deraillers, though. There's no getting around that. Some of the older English 3-speed hubs would lose ~10% of the power compared to ~1% for a properly maintained derailler drive. The Shimano hubs might be better than that, but they're not going to be worlds better.

That loss would be a deal breaker for me, but only because I sometimes want to make ~20-odd mile round trips for groceries and the like. (I live in a small town, and sometimes have to travel to get to places like Megalowmart.) If I were just making shorter trips, the hub gear penalty wouldn't bother me much. It might well be worth it to avoid all of the derailler maintenance. You can use a proper chainguard, too, which is no small consideration on a practical bicycle. (I curse many times for there being no proper chainguard in North America for a derailler bike.)

I'll mention too that the Breezer bikes are very attractive. The LBS has got a few in stock, and I'm impressed. They are not clunky machines. They are surprisingly light weight, well made bikes. The high end model has a Shimano generator hub in front, and a dedicated light. I would definitely consider one for a utility bike.

Well, I would consider it, except that I think that a touring bike is a better utility bike even than a Breezer. You can carry more stuff with full front and rear racks than with the smaller rack on a Breezer-type bike. A tourer will allow more efficient travel over longer distances, too. If you really want the hub gears, though, consider a Breezer.

I have been a big fan of internal gears for the past 6 years ever since I purchase a old British AW 3 speed as a back up for my road bike. I gave away the road bike when I start doing serious riding on the 3 speed and never looked back since. Since then, my new bike was modified with a three speed hub and another new bike coming soon will also have an internal gear drivetrain installed. And I live in an area surrounded by sharp steep hills!

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I'll mention too that the Breezer bikes are very attractive. The LBS has got a few in stock, and I'm impressed. They are not clunky machines. They are surprisingly light weight, well made bikes. The high end model has a Shimano generator hub in front, and a dedicated light. I would definitely consider one for a utility bike.

Well, I would consider it, except that I think that a touring bike is a better utility bike even than a Breezer. You can carry more stuff with full front and rear racks than with the smaller rack on a Breezer-type bike. A tourer will allow more efficient travel over longer distances, too. If you really want the hub gears, though, consider a Breezer.
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Only if you lucky folks who live in the country, Merriwether. If you live out in the wide open spaces, a good touring bike is your #1 choice. It would be hard to beat a Breezer internal hub bike, like the Villager, for short city hops. Lucky for you, Joe Breeze makes some nice country touring bikes as well. Check 'em out.

Burley's commuter bike seems to have impressive specs. It features an inernally geared hub and rear brake, while the front brake is disc. Looks like it's made with some quality components, all steel frame. Also comes as a 27 speed deraillieur model.

https://www.burley.com/products/commu...unabout-27&i=0

I was impressed enough with the burley's spec's to seek out a test ride. I was impressed with the bike's build quality. The internal hub was as fine as they get - you have to ride a few to know what I mean. But what put me off was the roller brake in the rear. Compared to the disc brake in the front it offered no appreciable stopping power. I could tell it would take me quite some time to get used to squeezing the right lever 10 times as hard as the left lever in order to use both brakes simultaniously - if ever.

I built my own internal hub commuter on a Surly Crosscheck frame, with a Sram 7 speed and both front and rear V-brakes. I eventually tired of the weight and low gear mechanical friction issues and converted the bike to single speed.

Anyone wanna buy a 700c Sram 7 speed wheel and shifter cheap?

DanO

Did the brake design change significantly between the 7- and 8-speed Nexus? The rear brake on my Milano works fine. Not super strong,but it does the job for a rear brake.

Of course,I'm used to riding motorcycles,so I use the front and rear brakes differently.

Rohloff has a quick release skewer. And bayonet clips on the shifter cables. To me there has been very little difference in time to change a tire,

Rohloff makes an OEM disk brake model, and a retrofit disk hub. I got the OEM since I built the frame and used thier dropouts which are two part and adjustable. They also have a winter oil and an all season oil. This will be my first winter commute with the rohloff. I did have my derailleur freeze last winter, and it would not shift until I knocked the ice off.
The rohloff's have a issue controlling torque and the soultion on the retrofit none disk is a bar that transfers the torque to the chain stay. The disk brake retrofit model uses a "speedbone" that attaches to the disc brake tab and is much nicer to look at.
The oem droputs eliminate all thos problems.
I would stongly suggest that if interested that you read the manuals that are on thier web site. Rohloff's that is.
I have not been riding the hub that long, just finished the bike in late June. But I will say this so far I love it.

For me, part of the attraction of internal gearing is the simplicity of operation. Adding external cogs or bb gearing just adds (to me) unnecessary complication.

The nexus 7 spd give me a wide enough gear range for hilly Knoxville (6% slopes common, 10% occasional). This is a commuter bike, and the gearing is not suitable for a long pull up a mountain pass, but okay for an unhurried longer cruise.

[QUOTE=bostontrevor]It's true, they are a bit less efficient but many people will never notice. Heavier? Are you carrying a set of clothes, tools, lights, maybe rack and pans. Some fenders? Lunch? Heavier seems to be relative. As for less gear range, modern 7 and 8 speed internals have about the same range as a classic 10 speed. It's not quite a triple, but then that's probably ok most of the time.

On the other hand, you don't have to deal with your rear cluster turning into an iceball in the winter, do ya?



Maybe the best argument for one of those shaft drive bikes is icing on the bike ? I wonder if they are very well sealed?

I don't really buy it.

Shaft drive requires an internally geared hub. Once you're there, a chain drive and shaft drive perform just as well in inclement conditions with the chain being marginally more efficient, lighter, and tons cheaper and more readily available.

[QUOTE=2manybikes
Maybe the best argument for one of those shaft drive bikes is icing on the bike ? I wonder if they are very well sealed?[/QUOTE]
One of the people on the Icebike list got one. On the one hand, he said that friction losses from the shaft drive were lower than expected. On the other hand, he also remarked that it was not particularly sealed against the elements.

Paul

The losses in the rohloff are way below 10 percent. And when I brought this issue up on another site, I was roundly savaged for my ignorance, there are at least some who believe these hubs are more efficient even with the titanic weight. It comes down to the fact that we readily accept the inefficiency of the derailleur, how dusty and dirty it gets, the angles, the longer chain, the weight in the cranks, and so forth. Then the issues of gear range come up, and the next thing you know someone is advocating a fixed drive, in San Francisco. I mean somewhere between that stage of your life, and the electric wheelchair, there might be a place for a few gears.

Anyway, I haven't used one, and the main advantages in durability really don't mean much to the real world of even my touring and MTBing to date. But it is certainly an interesting trend. The main thing the Nexus has going for it is that it has a full double range, and triples only really became the norm about 20 years ago, so we are at a reasonable place relative to gearing, and a reasonable price. I'm not plunking down what they want for a Rohloff until a few more decades have gone by. I have no interest in paying early adopter prices.

I also remember when bikes didn't have quick releases, in fact I'm getting them off my bikes. With the fenders all coming to the same point of attachment in the old days, we fixed almost all our tires in place, and kept them about 5-10 patches worth. With the new instant patches being so low profile a few patches seem reasonable. The way you find holes if it is noisy or whatever, is just use your eyes, and when you find something suspicious, put your finger over it with a little spit Don't worry your inertube is already wearing a rubber, you won't catch anything!

Does anyone know whether the Nexus has dish?

Internally geared wheels are dishless.

I've never had ice or anything give me chain problems in the snow. Do you get ice problems from riding or leaving the bike outside? I don't think I leave my bike outside as much as you do.


That pretty much removes any benefits of the shaft drive. I would think any moisture inside the drive unit would be a problem in the winter.

That's basically what I'm saying. I never have a problem with the chain, ring, or cog so I don't see the win with a shaft drive. My bikes overnight inside, so they see both indoors and out.