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Originally Posted by 91MF
(Post 11877447)
no offence, but this sounds dangerous.
its probably because when i was a young and stupid skater punk hanging out behind the supermarket i saw a friend of mine get pushed in a shopping cart off the curb at high speed and it tipped over with his fingers through the mesh and shaved off most of the meat on his right hand fingers down to the bones - which were also broken. they used skin grafts to fix it but it was painful and he never had proper use of his hand and we called him 'ass-hand' for years. Should my toddler not be allowed in the child seat of a shopping cart when I go grocery shopping? Seriously! how is comparing a bunch of idiot kids that were by your description auditioning for the Darwin award even remotely comparable to an adult taking his child to school other then a shopping cart was used in both instances? Its stupid reactions like this that lead to stupid laws. Live by accepting "personal responsibility". |
No offense taken! Take note: shopping carts in their natural form have small, hard rubber, swiveling wheels. This is the boxy part of a shopping cart mounted on leaf springs and twenty-inch bicycle wheels. Also, you can't see it, but the cart has seatbelts for kids in it. So I don't think it's appreciably more dangerous than having a kid on a rear, rack-mounted seat, in a towed kid trailer, or in a modern bakfiets. More ghetto? Definitely. Slower? For sure. But more dangerous? I don't think so.
Originally Posted by 91MF
(Post 11877436)
no offence, but this sounds dangerous.
its probably because when i was a young and stupid skater punk hanging out behind the supermarket i saw a friend of mine get pushed in a shopping cart off the curb at high speed and it tipped over with his fingers through the mesh and shaved off most of the meat on his right hand fingers down to the bones - which were also broken. they used skin grafts to fix it but it was painful and he never had proper use of his hand and we called him 'ass-hand' for years. |
I think that shopping karted trike is rad, very unique
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The extra-bike will probably share duties with the U.A.V. for the winter... the IGH on the U.A.V. will be particularly welcome if I have to ride in sub -30C temps when free hubs can get a little cranky.
http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...erstretch2.JPG http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...tershasta1.JPG And for those really nice days when the roads are de-iced and the temperatures are not insanely cold my studless Trek 7500 is a great winter ride. |
Originally Posted by QuakerProf
(Post 11854468)
I'm still loving your bike, IRClean. We were looking at the same time, and I ended up with the Kona Dr. Fine (Kona is a joint US-Canada venture, so they have dealers in my area, while Norco doesn't).
How is that belt drive holding up? Any squeaking? We're finally getting some sub-freezing temps here and so far I have had zero issues with the cold as it pertains to the drivetrain. I hope you're happy with your Kona. The Dr. Fine made my short list while shopping for my bike, but one ride on the Norco and I was hooked. |
The Motobecane in it's current commuter form.
http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/u...g?t=1291406876 It was just about a year ago when I converted it to fixed and since then it has seen a lot of small changes, even to the point that for a few weeks it was seeing duty as a SS cross bike. But now she's back to doing what she does best, being a reliable commuter and not looking too flashy. |
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Here's mine, possibly in the thread already somewhere, but in this picture it has super shiney new Schwalbe Snow Studs. No more bruises for me hopefully. |
Here's is my new dry weather commuter in addition to my Dahon Helios. It is a Softride Classic.
http://i52.tinypic.com/2872fs5.jpg http://i54.tinypic.com/2112mtg.jpg I have a feeling the Dahon might start getting jealous now... http://i36.tinypic.com/qp1ezn.jpg |
Marc Nepo's Dodge Chopper
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/...84c82a1636.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/...7db079a130.jpg |
Originally Posted by puppypilgrim
(Post 11886735)
here's is my new dry weather commuter in addition to my dahon helios. It is a softride classic.
http://i52.tinypic.com/2872fs5.jpg Best of luck with that. |
The steerer tube doesn't fit conventional diamond frame expectations Deshi.
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By the looks of it, I would say that much extra steerer tube is down right dangerous. What fork are you using on there?
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^^^
Questioning from complete ignorance here, but how is too much steerer tube dangerous? |
Newly Bought Giant FCR3100
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Hi Guys,
New member here, recently just move to china and been lurking here for quite sometimes to gather info on a first "bike" for commuting. I settled with Giant FCR3100 (still fresh out of box, not yet finish tightening all the screw :love:) The micro floor pump is kinda cool..it's a floor pump but micro..duh :o I have read several thread about portable pump and this one will do the job just fine without killing the biceps. Attachment 181029 The rest of the component I have no idea...I'm 175cm in height...the frame stated "M" Size for 170cm above. Earlier, I was thinking to get a cheaper one, Forever C series..couldn't find anywhere here. Attachment 181030 |
Originally Posted by puppypilgrim
(Post 11886735)
Here's is my new dry weather commuter in addition to my Dahon Helios. It is a Softride Classic.
http://i52.tinypic.com/2872fs5.jpg http://i54.tinypic.com/2112mtg.jpg
Originally Posted by Deshi
(Post 11887275)
Holy steer tube batman!!!
Best of luck with that.
Originally Posted by Deshi
(Post 11887989)
By the looks of it, I would say that much extra steerer tube is down right dangerous. What fork are you using on there?
I'm just not seeing that warning in the instructions of my Steel steer tube carbon fork I just installed. Now a carbon steer tube I do know there is issues with putting spacers above the stem because they use an expanding plug in the tube and the stem is suppose to be lined up with that so the tube doesn't crush. A mountain bike it may be a problem because of extra stress for that style of riding. I just don't see it being an issue on that bike because the spacers become structural when using a top clamping headset that preloads the head set bearings. I suspect a LARGE part of that spacer is solid and it is not a stack of 10mm spacers but one spacer of about 120mm. The effective wall thickness is the thickenss of the spacer and the steer tube. The only down side I see is weight. If you look at the design of those bikes it is a necessity to have a large spacer because of their floating beam design. You do know that beam that the seat is on is spring loaded don't you? |
I asked the OP what fork he is using so that I may check manufactures specs. Most forks have a max height they recommend and deem safe. I am trying to figure out what that number is from the manufacture.
Also, you guys telling me that I am against that many spacers due to aesthetics is crap. I think that bike looks really nice actually. I am against that many spacers due to safety concerns. Again, I am waiting on the OP now so I way due a little more research to see the manufactures recommendations. Who know's, that particular manufacture of that particular fork may deem that tall of a steerer tube safe. |
Originally Posted by Grim
(Post 11888293)
If you look at the design of those bikes it is a necessity to have a large spacer because of their floating beam design. You do know that beam that the seat is on is spring loaded don't you?
http://www.google.com/images?client=...w=1187&bih=764 |
That's the only Softride bike I've ever seen that has more than a couple centimeters of spacers. http://www.google.com/images?client=...w=1187&bih=764 Your link does more to prove my point then disprove it as well as show what a weird bird softrides are If you look you will see that most of the soft rides with threadless that are actually pictures from the owners either have a long head tube that is above the upper tube of the main frame or they are a different style frame then the Solo. There is a same model as his posted on what shows as the second page and it has an equally tall steer tube and spacer stack leading me to think it may have come factory like that. More study of the softride pictures most of the ones set up for general riding with drop bars (not Crit or tri) have the quill stems extended as far as will go, some have dirt drop stems and almost all of the thread-less have the stem flipped for rise. Another observation: A high percentage of the ones with little to no stacked spacers have bull horns not traditional drop bars and set were the bar height would be comparable to being in the drops. Example http://www.kiwibikes.co.nz/road-bikes/jeffson-softride/ note how tall the head tube is. Here is the Solo, like the posters, that has a long steer tube that they owner put and extension on and flipped the stem up. The bike already had a taller head tube making me believe that the steer tube is just as long as our posters. http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...7&postcount=19 Fact is that bike is too small if he needed to do that (add an extension) much to make it ridable. Another with a lot of steer tube and bull horns. http://www.running-down.com/2009/09/...-bike-800.html Look funny...yep, Dangerous as was claimed...I don't see it. |
I would also agree that your steer tube looks a bit too long. As a technician in a bike shop, I've seen several failures occur due to too long of steer tubes. My recommendation would be to find out what the manufacturer's recommendation on length is and go from there.
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Originally Posted by Grim
(Post 11889255)
Fact is that bike is too small if he needed to do that (add an extension) much to make it ridable.
Direct from Thomson. http://bikethomson.com/category/blog/ Stem Installation August 13th, 2010 | Author: admin Given some of the recent discussions about steerer tube failures and stem compatibility we thought we would clarify what we see as proper stem installation. These are changes that will be incorporated in our instructions soon. First, the steerer tube should go all the way through the stem such that it requires a 5mm spacer between the top cap and stem. The steerer tube must be cut square and you need to be sure that after the stem cap is tightened to preload the stem that it is not touching the steerer tube. It is very important to follow the fork/bike manufacturers guidelines about maximum spacers under the stem, 30mm is a practical maximum. Second, the start nut on a metal steerer, or compression plug on a carbon steerer must be in the steerer tube where the stem is clamping. Do not clamp an unsupported portion of steerer tube. As parts get lighter it is key to use a torque wrench for tightening fasteners. If you have questions about this do feel free to email or call. Posted in Blog | No Comments » Still waiting on the OP to chime in with the model of fork so that I may check with the manufacture as to the safe amount of stack on their steerer tubes. |
30mm of carbon steertube is the limit.
I'm not sure about steel. either way... i wouldn't ride it. |
Yes I did read that and thats a common recommendation for carbon steer tubes. Steel, as I suspect that bike has, with a long one piece spacer I think is not a problem but I will tell you this. If you image search the "Solo" model...his is unusual to have that short head tube.
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Wow such a hornet's nest of a discussion. I guess armchair quarterbacking must be fun.
- The steerer tube is steel. Where the stem clamps onto is an additional shim or collar. - The frame size is XS resulting in the short headtube. - A more informative comparison with DF bikes would be the saddle to tube drop. Comparing geometries with a conventional diamond frame design is fruitless. Might as well compare it with recumbents... - If you look at the seat to saddle drop, it is setup similar to a touring bike. Mine is setup to commute 40 km a day. Therefore the setup is for comfort and not all out speed. I like touring setup for visibility as I ride in traffic. - Deshi, I am somewhat irritated at your attitude which I think could have come across more helpful. Regardless of your intent, you come off as a component-safety enforcement officer instead of a friendly forum member. ;) I think Grim and Griddlecakes understand the Softride's design well. |
Originally Posted by puppypilgrim
(Post 11891494)
- Deshi, I am somewhat irritated at your attitude which I think could have come across more helpful. Regardless of your intent, you come off as a component-safety enforcement officer instead of a friendly forum member. ;)
The bike looks good with the bars that high. It looks natural. It still seems sketchy to me personally. . I would still like to know the manufacture of the fork if you would be so kind. Edit: You say there is a shim where the stem bolts onto the steerer. Does that mean this is a 1" steerer tube? |
bicycles are things we build
when we create things with our hands, we have literally made something so we take comments personally heck... the other day i was talking to a guy who rode a bike without brakes |
My comment was no where near personal or a hit towards him. As I have stated multiple times already, The bike looks good. There is no doubt about that.
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a couple of my commuters
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Asana, Love the cargo bike. Another bike in my stable is a Brodie Force built with an Xtracycle. Seems I can't have a "normal" bicycle. LOL.
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a bolt-on convert is not a solid one piece frame.
Surly did its homework on this one. |
Yeah the Big Dummy is an excellent cargo bike. People don't believe how intuitive it is to ride a long tail cargo until they actually try it. I'm glad to see the proliferation of all kinds of cargo bikes from Bilenky to Madsen. Its good for the biking world to have more cargo bikes.
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