Why Sheldon's U-locking technique is the best
#26
genec
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27,072
Likes: 4,533
From: West Coast
Bikes: custom built, sannino, beachbike, giant trance x2
Yeah, but you're still destroying the wheel which is one of the most expensive components to the bike. But I still agree with your logic to a point. Regardless of that, putting a U-lock around the rear wheel like that causes it to rest on the chain which means you get grease on your lock and most likely all over your hands when you're messing around with it. Personally I don't like having to wash my hands frequently when I'm using my bike as a form of transportation. That's why I prefer to lock aroud the frame and away from the chain. But hey, that's just me.
Despite where you put the lock, I would hardly think Sheldon Brown would recommend locking your bike anywhere near the path of a bus. But again,I can see how an effed up wheel is a pretty good deterrent towards theft.
Despite where you put the lock, I would hardly think Sheldon Brown would recommend locking your bike anywhere near the path of a bus. But again,I can see how an effed up wheel is a pretty good deterrent towards theft.
#27
If I were the thief, and couldn't get my hands on a city bus
then I'd use a cordless recip saw. Having used recip saws to cut computer hard drives in half using Wood & Nails blades (!), I have no doubt they would handle this task easily too. It might require a longer-shackle lock, but I'll stick with locking the rear wheel and frame.
then I'd use a cordless recip saw. Having used recip saws to cut computer hard drives in half using Wood & Nails blades (!), I have no doubt they would handle this task easily too. It might require a longer-shackle lock, but I'll stick with locking the rear wheel and frame.
#29
If you're walking around with a recip saw, wouldn't it be easier to cut the lock instead of the wheel? That wheel is still under tremendous amounts of force. A recip saw's blade would still bind in it.
#30
Cutting through a rim and a tire while it is under tension is not a fun job with any kind of tool... a thief would have to be pretty motivated to go through that kind of trouble.
And they'd have an un-rideable bike that was missing one of it's key components.
And they'd have an un-rideable bike that was missing one of it's key components.
#31
#32
I did say it was stolen, it's just not there any more to be the hot bike to lock next to. What surprised me was that the owner never locked the front wheel and, as far as I know, it hasn't been stolen. This is all on a college campus.
#36
Giftless Amateur

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,319
Likes: 844
From: MD / metro DC
Bikes: Cross-Check/Nexus commuter. Several others for various forms of play.
As long as we're talking about some serious cutting, hacking through the pole, street sign, rack, whatever it is locked up to works too.
#37
#38
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
From: New Orleans, LA, USA
Bikes: '59 Raleigh Lenton, '86 Peugeot PSN-10 Triathalon, '84 Peugeot PGN-10, 8? Peugeot UE-18, Peugeot NS-540, '86 Giant Iguana (Xtracycle), Holdsworth Gemini tandem, Surly Cross Check fixie, '86 Centurion MV Ironman
Found an interesting overview of bike theft (methods, prevention, motivations, environment, etc...) from the Center For Problem-Oriented Policing: https://www.popcenter.org/problems/bicycle_theft/
#39
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 825
Likes: 3
i like this guys locking techique:
https://www.mechbgon.com/lock/index.html
what i like most is that he admit weakness. he know he doesn't have the best setup, and doesn't always lock his bike up the best way possible.
for me i use an old krypto ulok 2 series and an unguard bulldog lock. i lock up back wheel to object and front wheel+frame, if possible to an object too. recently i bought a saddle leash on bikeregiestery, locked up my rear rack+chain stay+saddle. a little bit of peice of mind(it was only 3bucks). i know i should upgrade my pirmary lock, and i have a krypto chain(just hard to carry even with a rack and basket). still i lock up my bike accepting it can get stolen, or parts can get ripped off. but i am happy for each day i can ride my bike.
i want to put a ball bearing in the headset axle nut and on the crankset with some locktight or something. lower the chances of those getting stolen.
https://www.mechbgon.com/lock/index.html
what i like most is that he admit weakness. he know he doesn't have the best setup, and doesn't always lock his bike up the best way possible.
for me i use an old krypto ulok 2 series and an unguard bulldog lock. i lock up back wheel to object and front wheel+frame, if possible to an object too. recently i bought a saddle leash on bikeregiestery, locked up my rear rack+chain stay+saddle. a little bit of peice of mind(it was only 3bucks). i know i should upgrade my pirmary lock, and i have a krypto chain(just hard to carry even with a rack and basket). still i lock up my bike accepting it can get stolen, or parts can get ripped off. but i am happy for each day i can ride my bike.
i want to put a ball bearing in the headset axle nut and on the crankset with some locktight or something. lower the chances of those getting stolen.
#40
Randomhead
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 25,930
Likes: 4,825
From: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
What does this have to do with locking your rear bike wheel through the rear triangle but not around a frame tube or stay? I was simply amazed at how few hacksaw strokes it took to get through the rim. So a thief with a common hacksaw could easily walk off with your whole bike in proabably a minute, albeit with a ruined rim, tire, and tube, but still a nice piece of pilfering.
But on a serious note, I've always worried that Sheldon's technique would attract a stupid destructive kind of thief that would only figure out it isn't any easier to steal a bike locked with it after he had done a lot of damage.
Last edited by unterhausen; 12-17-09 at 01:55 AM.







