What do you think about this locking style???
#1
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Joined: Mar 2010
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What do you think about this locking style???
So I just got my OnGaurd Putbill Mini U-Lock (with cable) from amazon to go with my new Trek 7.1 FX.
I've been looking at different ways to lock my bike up, and it appears that the Sheldon Brown method seems to get a lot of attention. My only question is, if I lock my bike like this (not my bike):

Can't any thief simply cut a hole through the back tire, cut the wire, slide the bike out of the u-lock (since the frame is not attached to it) and leave with the bike (u-lock still attached to the poll)?
I know my bike isn't worth that much, but I'd still hate to get it stolen. I got the Pitbill mini for $24 on Amazon (compared to $50 at a store)... would it be better and safe if I were to purchase a second u-lock, lock the back wheel to the frame with U-Lock #1, lock the frame to the poll with U-Lock #2 and then the front wheel and seat with the cable connected to U-Lock #2. What are your thought's on this procedure?
I've been looking at different ways to lock my bike up, and it appears that the Sheldon Brown method seems to get a lot of attention. My only question is, if I lock my bike like this (not my bike):

Can't any thief simply cut a hole through the back tire, cut the wire, slide the bike out of the u-lock (since the frame is not attached to it) and leave with the bike (u-lock still attached to the poll)?
I know my bike isn't worth that much, but I'd still hate to get it stolen. I got the Pitbill mini for $24 on Amazon (compared to $50 at a store)... would it be better and safe if I were to purchase a second u-lock, lock the back wheel to the frame with U-Lock #1, lock the frame to the poll with U-Lock #2 and then the front wheel and seat with the cable connected to U-Lock #2. What are your thought's on this procedure?
#2
A bike without a rear wheel is useless to most thieves. If someone wants your bike, they can get it. No lock will prevent that.
Unless you live in a particularly bad area or ride a ridiculously expensive saddle, locking the saddle and other bits is kind of overkill.
Unless you live in a particularly bad area or ride a ridiculously expensive saddle, locking the saddle and other bits is kind of overkill.
#3
That looks like a pretty good deterrent for an average thief, although I'd put the U-lock around the wheel AND the seatstay, through the frame, and run the cable around the bike rack too: that would mean two things to cut to release the bike, that should turn off most thieves.
#4
Do you think it would buy you any extra security to do this? If you set it up as pictured, then the thief will either cut the U-lock (in which case it adds no security to run the lock around the seatstay), or cut through the wheel (which, as S. Brown cogently argued, is danged difficult to do).
#5
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Do you think it would buy you any extra security to do this? If you set it up as pictured, then the thief will either cut the U-lock (in which case it adds no security to run the lock around the seatstay), or cut through the wheel (which, as S. Brown cogently argued, is danged difficult to do).
#6
The U-lock should've been around the seat tube as well as through the spokes of the rear wheel. You always want to get the frame involved with the U-lock, so that if anyone wanted to steal it, they'd have to ruin the frame to do so.
#7
I don't understand this. Wouldn't a thief aim to cut the lock, and not the frame? If so, then nothing is gained by involving the seat tube.
#8
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 2010 Kona Dr. Dew, Moose Bicycle XXL (fat bike), Yuba Mundo V3
That's exactly the point. By locking around a portion of the frame (be it the seat tube or seat stay or whatever) it forces the thief to cut the lock or ruin the bike. Locking just around a wheel means they can leave the (replaceable) wheel behind or, at worst, cut the (again, replaceable) wheel.
#9
That's exactly the point. By locking around a portion of the frame (be it the seat tube or seat stay or whatever) it forces the thief to cut the lock or ruin the bike. Locking just around a wheel means they can leave the (replaceable) wheel behind or, at worst, cut the (again, replaceable) wheel.
#10
Tawp Dawg
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,221
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From: Anchorage, AK
Bikes: '06 Surly Pugsley, '14 Surly Straggler, '88 Kuwahara Xtracycle, '10 Motobecane Outcast 29er, '?? Surly Cross Check (wife's), '00 Trek 4500 (wife's), '12 Windsor Oxford 3-speed (dogs')
Can't any thief simply cut a hole through the back tire, cut the wire, slide the bike out of the u-lock (since the frame is not attached to it) and leave with the bike (u-lock still attached to the poll)?
I know my bike isn't worth that much, but I'd still hate to get it stolen. I got the Pitbill mini for $24 on Amazon (compared to $50 at a store)... would it be better and safe if I were to purchase a second u-lock, lock the back wheel to the frame with U-Lock #1, lock the frame to the poll with U-Lock #2 and then the front wheel and seat with the cable connected to U-Lock #2. What are your thought's on this procedure?
I know my bike isn't worth that much, but I'd still hate to get it stolen. I got the Pitbill mini for $24 on Amazon (compared to $50 at a store)... would it be better and safe if I were to purchase a second u-lock, lock the back wheel to the frame with U-Lock #1, lock the frame to the poll with U-Lock #2 and then the front wheel and seat with the cable connected to U-Lock #2. What are your thought's on this procedure?
#11
That's exactly the point. By locking around a portion of the frame (be it the seat tube or seat stay or whatever) it forces the thief to cut the lock or ruin the bike. Locking just around a wheel means they can leave the (replaceable) wheel behind or, at worst, cut the (again, replaceable) wheel.
I think annc above had it right. If there is a reason to involve the frame, it is for a display of deterrence: i.e., to deter a would-be thief who doesn't understand all this and who might try yanking the bike around after he's disengaged the rear wheel.
Last edited by ortcutt; 03-12-10 at 04:09 PM. Reason: typo correction
#12
This is an excellent locking method as it secures the rear wheel and frame and the cable protects the front wheel to some degree... putting the lock around the wheel and frame only provides a stronger visual deterrent and can expose a bike to more damage durig a theft or attempted theft.
Cutting through a rim and wire bead tyre is not an easy task.
Cutting through a rim and wire bead tyre is not an easy task.
#13
That's exactly the point. By locking around a portion of the frame (be it the seat tube or seat stay or whatever) it forces the thief to cut the lock or ruin the bike. Locking just around a wheel means they can leave the (replaceable) wheel behind or, at worst, cut the (again, replaceable) wheel.
#15
#17
#18
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Joined: Jul 2008
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if you live in a low crime area and its not locked up like this for days on end then its a pretty good job. however, like others said, i would put ulock threw seat tube+rear wheel or chainstays+rear wheel.
second thing i would sugest would be locking up the seat and rear rack. you can get a saddle leash from bike regersity or use an old chain/cable lock and lash it threw rear rack, seat stay and the rails for the saddle.
https://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/p...f52f40603b8325
if you live in a moderate to high crime area i would upgrade your locks. either get a krypto chain lock or two ulocks, one being the new york model or the fuggedaboutit. make sure both locks are locked threw a wheel+frame+immovable object. you have a newish bike that looks pretty nice and a real thief seeing a cheap older ulock and cable lock might think its worth stealing. you can get an battery operated angle grinder at any hardware store under 100bucks and take the bike under 5mins. i like the rack you lock your bike too, and it would take probably 20mins to hacksaw the rack.
btw clean and lube your bike chain.
second thing i would sugest would be locking up the seat and rear rack. you can get a saddle leash from bike regersity or use an old chain/cable lock and lash it threw rear rack, seat stay and the rails for the saddle.
https://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/p...f52f40603b8325
if you live in a moderate to high crime area i would upgrade your locks. either get a krypto chain lock or two ulocks, one being the new york model or the fuggedaboutit. make sure both locks are locked threw a wheel+frame+immovable object. you have a newish bike that looks pretty nice and a real thief seeing a cheap older ulock and cable lock might think its worth stealing. you can get an battery operated angle grinder at any hardware store under 100bucks and take the bike under 5mins. i like the rack you lock your bike too, and it would take probably 20mins to hacksaw the rack.
btw clean and lube your bike chain.
#20
Tawp Dawg
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,221
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From: Anchorage, AK
Bikes: '06 Surly Pugsley, '14 Surly Straggler, '88 Kuwahara Xtracycle, '10 Motobecane Outcast 29er, '?? Surly Cross Check (wife's), '00 Trek 4500 (wife's), '12 Windsor Oxford 3-speed (dogs')
#22
Tawp Dawg
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,221
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From: Anchorage, AK
Bikes: '06 Surly Pugsley, '14 Surly Straggler, '88 Kuwahara Xtracycle, '10 Motobecane Outcast 29er, '?? Surly Cross Check (wife's), '00 Trek 4500 (wife's), '12 Windsor Oxford 3-speed (dogs')
#23

You can only do so much to prevent theft or stripping of parts and a bike like this is far more attractive in that it has some pretty outstanding parts... getting the bars, stem, carbon fork, and wheel would only take me a few minutes.
You just can't protect everything and locking is only one part of a good security strategy... parking in well traveled areas, not parking in the same place every day, and locking up with messengers are excellent ideas.
It is not that messengers do a great job of locking their bikes but it is because local thieves know that the odds of being caught in these areas is very high and that there will be more eyes watching.
#24
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From: Greenbelt, MD
#25
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: MD / metro DC
Bikes: Cross-Check/Nexus commuter. Several others for various forms of play.
Can't any thief simply cut a hole through the back tire, cut the wire, slide the bike out of the u-lock (since the frame is not attached to it) and leave with the bike (u-lock still attached to the poll)?
I know my bike isn't worth that much, but I'd still hate to get it stolen. I got the Pitbill mini for $24 on Amazon (compared to $50 at a store)... would it be better and safe if I were to purchase a second u-lock, lock the back wheel to the frame with U-Lock #1, lock the frame to the poll with U-Lock #2 and then the front wheel and seat with the cable connected to U-Lock #2. What are your thought's on this procedure?
I know my bike isn't worth that much, but I'd still hate to get it stolen. I got the Pitbill mini for $24 on Amazon (compared to $50 at a store)... would it be better and safe if I were to purchase a second u-lock, lock the back wheel to the frame with U-Lock #1, lock the frame to the poll with U-Lock #2 and then the front wheel and seat with the cable connected to U-Lock #2. What are your thought's on this procedure?
The whole point of the mini u-locks is to make it difficult to jam tools in there. Going with two of them (daisy chained?) sort of defeats that. Your idea sounds a little obtuse, why not just get a larger u-lock..






