Head Tube Headlight Mounting
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Vermontopia
Bikes: 2005 LeMond, 2008 Kona
Head Tube Headlight Mounting
Has anyone ever encountered a way to mount a single or pair of headlights to the head tube? I have handlebar battery lights that are good enough for making others aware of my presence, but they are useless for helping me see the road/path/trail, so I'm going to make the switch to a dynamo power system. That's the easy bit.
Deciding how/where to mount is the hard bit that I'm ruminating over. What I want (or think I want) is my light(s) mounted to the frame instead of the handlebars/fork crown. Theoretically, I will end up with a more steady beam of light that wont constantly shift with every little twitch of the handlebars. To look from side to side I have a helmet light that will work.
I have about 1 1/4 inch of clean head tube space between the top tube and the down tube that I have to work with. My initial thought is that what I want is basically a long stem designed for a super-thick handlebar mounted backwards and upside down.
Any ideas, solutions, or words of advice for this first-time poster?
Thanks
Deciding how/where to mount is the hard bit that I'm ruminating over. What I want (or think I want) is my light(s) mounted to the frame instead of the handlebars/fork crown. Theoretically, I will end up with a more steady beam of light that wont constantly shift with every little twitch of the handlebars. To look from side to side I have a helmet light that will work.
I have about 1 1/4 inch of clean head tube space between the top tube and the down tube that I have to work with. My initial thought is that what I want is basically a long stem designed for a super-thick handlebar mounted backwards and upside down.
Any ideas, solutions, or words of advice for this first-time poster?
Thanks
#3
It's true, man.
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: North Texas
Bikes: Cannondale T1000, Inbred SS 29er, Supercaliber 29er, Crescent Mark XX, Burley Rumba Tandem
It sounds like you're fixing a problem that doesn't really exist, but you could mock up what you think you want with some plastic zipties or a hose clamp and see if it's worth pursuing to a permanent and more aesthetic solution.
Myself, I find that having the light mounted to the fork crown is preferable to a fixed beam. Night-riding on singletrack, a light on the bar and one on the helmet is even better.
Myself, I find that having the light mounted to the fork crown is preferable to a fixed beam. Night-riding on singletrack, a light on the bar and one on the helmet is even better.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 09 Jamis Aurora, 4 Giant ATX 870, 64 Schwin Traveler
why wouldn't you want the light to move when you move the bars? If it's on the frame then when you turn the light won't be pointed at where you are about to go, they'd be always trailing behind a bit.
#5
https://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
These pipe hangers are perfect for mounting lights to bikes. many sizes available and cheap!
You should rap the tube with some electrical tube first to avoid scratches
These pipe hangers are perfect for mounting lights to bikes. many sizes available and cheap!
You should rap the tube with some electrical tube first to avoid scratches
#6
I used to do this with my "high beam" super-thrower flashlight (the one at the bottom of the pic):

What you're seeing there is a DiNotte 600L bar mount with the top removed, and a cam-strap from an ancient Cateye 2-C-cell taillight in its place. Unfortunately it won't fit the head tube on my new road-commuter bike.
This was beneficial because I was mainly travelling on highways. I wanted that light's narrow, focused beam to aim where the bike was aimed, not the bars or fork. When the light reaches 150 meters out, even small steering movements send the beam alllll over the place. If I want to aim a light into a turn on a highway, that's what my helmet light is for. If it suits your needs, go for it. You can always change back otherwise.

What you're seeing there is a DiNotte 600L bar mount with the top removed, and a cam-strap from an ancient Cateye 2-C-cell taillight in its place. Unfortunately it won't fit the head tube on my new road-commuter bike.
This was beneficial because I was mainly travelling on highways. I wanted that light's narrow, focused beam to aim where the bike was aimed, not the bars or fork. When the light reaches 150 meters out, even small steering movements send the beam alllll over the place. If I want to aim a light into a turn on a highway, that's what my helmet light is for. If it suits your needs, go for it. You can always change back otherwise.
#7
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Newbie
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Vermontopia
Bikes: 2005 LeMond, 2008 Kona
Timothy,
This looks like it could work very in combination with a fork crown mount (perhaps modified to fit on a case by case basis). Assuming the light(s) are lightweight then vibration should be minimal. Thanks!
This looks like it could work very in combination with a fork crown mount (perhaps modified to fit on a case by case basis). Assuming the light(s) are lightweight then vibration should be minimal. Thanks!
Last edited by Trocar; 11-11-10 at 12:34 PM.
#8
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Vermontopia
Bikes: 2005 LeMond, 2008 Kona
mechBgon,
Your previous riding situaiton is exactly what I'm trying to gear for. I don't want wild swings in the beam 50 meters ahead, I want consistency in the beam based on where my frame is moving, not my handlebars. This setup might just work for me! Thanks!
Your previous riding situaiton is exactly what I'm trying to gear for. I don't want wild swings in the beam 50 meters ahead, I want consistency in the beam based on where my frame is moving, not my handlebars. This setup might just work for me! Thanks!
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 903
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 2010 Kona Dr. Dew, Moose Bicycle XXL (fat bike), Yuba Mundo V3
I'm going to echo the notion that you should at least try a crown mount before you go crazy with a homebrew head tube mount. There are good odds you'll find it perfectly functional.
#10
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,863
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
If your bars are waving around that much, you need to learn to ride more smoothly (unless you're doing some crazy offroading in your commute, anyway).
#11
Gear Hub fan
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Reno, NV
Bikes: Civia Hyland Rohloff, Swobo Dixon, Colnago, Univega
Once moving over a couple of miles per hour the bars and fork turn minimally. Most of the steering is done via weight shift with minimal fork and bars movement per my experience with both bicycle and motorcycle riding. Motorcycles with frame mount fairings typically have lighting set up like the OP wants to for his bicycle but I never noted much difference functionally between fork and frame mounted lights once actually moving.
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Gear Hubs Owned: Rohloff disc brake, SRAM iM9 disc brake, SRAM P5 freewheel, Sachs Torpedo 3 speed freewheel, NuVinci CVT, Shimano Alfine SG S-501, Sturmey Archer S5-2 Alloy. Other: 83 Colnago Super Record, Univega Via De Oro
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#12
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
#13
It's not easy to do justice to bike lights with a digital camera, but this is the Dereelight DBS V2 on a secondary highway. No exaggeration to say it had an effective range of over 100 meters in a dark environment, if it could be kept on-target.
Last edited by mechBgon; 11-12-10 at 12:23 AM.
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