Crank related questions...
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Crank related questions...
Hey all, I been commuting by my MTB for a while and I love it. One issue though the gearing is not optimal for the terrain I ride or how I like to ride it. My current crank is stock (FSA Alpha Drive 42/32/22) my problem is that I never use the smallest ring and the tallest is not tall enough for me. What are my options? Any suggestions? I would like my tallest to be my mid ring my mid to become my lowest and something taller for downhill’s. I am sorry I am new to working on my own bike so I am not sure what I can do and if it's even worth it. I have plenty tools at home as I work on my own cars most of the time, I don't mind buying bike specific tools as I am gear head and more toys to play the better
. Any advice?
Specs for my bike you can find it hear:
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr...4/category/86/
I know this is not perfect commuter bike, I bought it with intention of replacing my old MTB and XC riding but I found that commuting is more fun, healthier, to some extend safer, and very rewarding. So any help would be appreciated.
. Any advice? Specs for my bike you can find it hear:
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr...4/category/86/
I know this is not perfect commuter bike, I bought it with intention of replacing my old MTB and XC riding but I found that commuting is more fun, healthier, to some extend safer, and very rewarding. So any help would be appreciated.
#2
On a Mission from God
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 5
From: Thibodaux, LA
Bikes: '10 Surly LHT, Rat-rod Klunker, '82 Peugeot PH12 Centennial
You can probably replace just the chainrings if they have bolts instead of rivets. If they're riveted, you'll have to replace the whole crank.
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
#10
Another option besides changing the chain rings (or in addition) would be a different cassette skewed more towards smaller cogs, but if you've already got an 11 tooth cog it's not going to matter.
If you go with significantly larger chainrings, it may impact how well the front derailleur shifts assuming it's designed for the chainrings you have.
#11
Are you sure about that? Very often anything bigger than a 48T big ring will hit the chainstays on a mountain bike. Ideally, you'd also get a new derailleur if you went bigger than 48T, but you might be able to get away with not doing that.
You could just swap chainrings, but a new crankset can be nearly as cheap as a new set of rings. OTOH, it looks like you've got a square-taper bottom bracket, so you may have to replace that also if you get a new crank, as square taper spindle lengths vary from crank to crank. You could get a set of rings for $60-$70, but for $100 you could get a Deore M590 crank with external bottom bracket.
Also, I think these are the rings you'd need: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...p?category=648
You could just swap chainrings, but a new crankset can be nearly as cheap as a new set of rings. OTOH, it looks like you've got a square-taper bottom bracket, so you may have to replace that also if you get a new crank, as square taper spindle lengths vary from crank to crank. You could get a set of rings for $60-$70, but for $100 you could get a Deore M590 crank with external bottom bracket.
Also, I think these are the rings you'd need: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...p?category=648
#12
On a Mission from God
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 5
From: Thibodaux, LA
Bikes: '10 Surly LHT, Rat-rod Klunker, '82 Peugeot PH12 Centennial
From the pics, it looks like the cranks are 4-arm cranks, which should be 104/64mm set. After you read Sheldon's article on them, measure the bolt pattern and make sure. You can get chainring sets from tons of online retailers, including Amazon. I'd stick with a 28/38/48 set, so you can keep the same front derailer. If you go bigger than a 48 front ring, you may need to change other parts around, and I'm guessing you don't want to spend the money to do that right now.
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Going by the link to their website you posted, it's a 34-11 cassette 8-speed. A 34 big cog is huge, much lower than you'd need unless you were hauling 100 pounds of stuff up a steep incline. You could get a standard 11-28 cassette pretty easily, but that only gives you 1 higher gear.
From the pics, it looks like the cranks are 4-arm cranks, which should be 104/64mm set. After you read Sheldon's article on them, measure the bolt pattern and make sure. You can get chainring sets from tons of online retailers, including Amazon. I'd stick with a 28/38/48 set, so you can keep the same front derailer. If you go bigger than a 48 front ring, you may need to change other parts around, and I'm guessing you don't want to spend the money to do that right now.
From the pics, it looks like the cranks are 4-arm cranks, which should be 104/64mm set. After you read Sheldon's article on them, measure the bolt pattern and make sure. You can get chainring sets from tons of online retailers, including Amazon. I'd stick with a 28/38/48 set, so you can keep the same front derailer. If you go bigger than a 48 front ring, you may need to change other parts around, and I'm guessing you don't want to spend the money to do that right now.
Than going with new crank and casset might be a smarter move.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jambon
Bicycle Mechanics
13
05-17-19 11:15 PM
durrrell
Bicycle Mechanics
1
02-01-12 01:11 PM
Germanicus
Mountain Biking
7
03-25-11 07:13 PM







