Crank shifting while commuting
#26
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
You can tap into some Cyclo Cross parts say a 110 42~44 as a middle *, and a Chainguard disc instead of the Outer .
Modern FD's need a 10t difference between Middle and outers..
the toothless disc will help keep your trouser leg out of thje chain.
* may lack the Shift pins and ramps , but Surly Stainless steel ones are Long Wearing.
then you have the 26~28t for hills. 16t drop to 3rd ring seems to work good.
Modern FD's need a 10t difference between Middle and outers..
the toothless disc will help keep your trouser leg out of thje chain.
* may lack the Shift pins and ramps , but Surly Stainless steel ones are Long Wearing.
then you have the 26~28t for hills. 16t drop to 3rd ring seems to work good.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-28-12 at 12:39 PM.
#27
You can tap into some Cyclo Cross parts say a 110 42~44 as a middle *, and a Chainguard disc instead of the Outer .
Modern FD's need a 10t difference between Middle and outers..
the toothless disc will help keep your trouser leg out of thje chain.
* may lack the Shift pins and ramps , but Surly Stainless steel ones are Long Wearing.
then you have the 26~28t for hills. 16t drop to 3rd ring seems to work good.
Modern FD's need a 10t difference between Middle and outers..
the toothless disc will help keep your trouser leg out of thje chain.
* may lack the Shift pins and ramps , but Surly Stainless steel ones are Long Wearing.
then you have the 26~28t for hills. 16t drop to 3rd ring seems to work good.
My FD was going between 42 and 52. I know the 10 tooth spec. It sure likes to go between 42 and 45 smoothly. I guess I could look around for a front plate closer to the 45t size but where its pushing on the chain is way back and it doesn’t know it only has to jump 3 tooth jump.
#28
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I run half step as follows:
46-43 to 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32
My twice daily ride has a large hill at each end with an undulating flat between and head wind.
With a closer ratio cassette I find myself doing a lot of double shifting.
Down hill it's best to keep up with 40-50km/hr traffic.
There are some steep parts that need the lowest ratio to save my knees.
Close spacing in the middle ratios around 30km/hr is good for the flatter section & winds.
I'm heavy, ride as fast as I can and it's my experience that smaller chainrings result in more rapid chain wear.
So the above setup works well for me, ignoring the extreme cross ratios I get:
Gear inches 35-40-43-47-51-54-58-63-67-71-76-81-87-95-101-110
% change 14-7-9-7-7-7-9-7-5-7-7-7-9-7-9
46-43 to 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32
My twice daily ride has a large hill at each end with an undulating flat between and head wind.
With a closer ratio cassette I find myself doing a lot of double shifting.
Down hill it's best to keep up with 40-50km/hr traffic.
There are some steep parts that need the lowest ratio to save my knees.
Close spacing in the middle ratios around 30km/hr is good for the flatter section & winds.
I'm heavy, ride as fast as I can and it's my experience that smaller chainrings result in more rapid chain wear.
So the above setup works well for me, ignoring the extreme cross ratios I get:
Gear inches 35-40-43-47-51-54-58-63-67-71-76-81-87-95-101-110
% change 14-7-9-7-7-7-9-7-5-7-7-7-9-7-9





