no economic incentive to bike
#51
Well I can Spend 30 min driving each way to work in my truck and ride 90 minutes in the evening for exercise or I can ride to work 55 minutes each way. I find myself to be more relaxed. Although I have to eat an extra 1200 - 1500 calories a day which bumps the Costco bill up a bit but I was doing that before anyways.
#52
beer drinker
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: california
Bikes: trek 950
Originally Posted by Dahon.Steve
I find this statement interesting because the poor are driving cars. It's easy to own a car and even those making under the poverty level will qualify for a car loan easliy if their credit is good. In fact, bankruptcy and poor credit will qualify you for a new car if you can put a couple of thousand down.
The original poster thinks the poor are not cycling becuase motor transport is inexpenive. Yet, I see many "poor" individuals driving new cars and these folks are working as retail clerks! Go figure.
The original poster thinks the poor are not cycling becuase motor transport is inexpenive. Yet, I see many "poor" individuals driving new cars and these folks are working as retail clerks! Go figure.
of course. buying/leasing/maintaining a nice car is one way to make sure you stay poor.
#53
Zinophile
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 1
From: Vienna, Virginia
Bikes: Spectrum Ti, Spectrum Track and Lemond Propad
I love the myopic view of people, as not everyone has a cheap alternative to commute to work.
If I were to take the subway/metro roundtrip and park at the metro station my cost structure would look like:
Cost Day 50 Weeks
Metro $7.50 $1,875.00
Parking $3.75 $937.50
Cost $11.25 $2,812.50
I bought a new Lemond Propad and accessories which cost approximately $1,500. Therefore to recoup the costs of my new bike is 133 days. I usually ride 4 days a week, therefore I will break even after 33 weeks. Not to mention that I have lost a considerable amount of weight, lowered my blood pressure and bad cholesterol.
Let's look at the time and motion aspect:
Time to drive to the metro station, take the metro to downtown DC and walk to work is between 1 hour and 1:20.
Time to ride to work 1:15, with Nokian tires add 20 minutes.
There is a tremendous economic benefit and a piece of mind benefit. Additionally, I do not have to take time away from the wife and kids to train. The value of this is priceless!!!!
If I were to take the subway/metro roundtrip and park at the metro station my cost structure would look like:
Cost Day 50 Weeks
Metro $7.50 $1,875.00
Parking $3.75 $937.50
Cost $11.25 $2,812.50
I bought a new Lemond Propad and accessories which cost approximately $1,500. Therefore to recoup the costs of my new bike is 133 days. I usually ride 4 days a week, therefore I will break even after 33 weeks. Not to mention that I have lost a considerable amount of weight, lowered my blood pressure and bad cholesterol.
Let's look at the time and motion aspect:
Time to drive to the metro station, take the metro to downtown DC and walk to work is between 1 hour and 1:20.
Time to ride to work 1:15, with Nokian tires add 20 minutes.
There is a tremendous economic benefit and a piece of mind benefit. Additionally, I do not have to take time away from the wife and kids to train. The value of this is priceless!!!!
#54
Geosynchronous Falconeer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,311
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Bikes: 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour, Campy Habanero Team Ti, Soma Double Cross
Well, you should also account for the cost of bike maintenance and accessories and clothing. Your point still stands, but those probably add a significant percentage to the cost.
__________________
Bring the pain.
Bring the pain.
#55
52-week commuter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,929
Likes: 1
From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
Originally Posted by recursive
Well, you should also account for the cost of bike maintenance and accessories and clothing. Your point still stands, but those probably add a significant percentage to the cost.
I'm sure I would spend a lot less if I only rode in fair weather. Rain, snow, and sub-freezing temperatures do a number on parts. Ice builds up on the chain and acts like an abrasive. Lubricants solidify in the cold and bearings seize up. I once did $300 worth of damage to my bike in 70 miles of winter riding. However, the fact of the matter is I do ride in all weather, so I have to count all costs.
I'm not counting labor, as I essentially do all my own work. Of course, I probably spend an hour a week tinkering with the bike, cleaning stuff, oiling stuff, truing the wheels, adjusting the brakes. If I put even a modest value on my time the cost per mile goes way up.
Also, I have many hundreds of dollars worth of specialized clothes that I use for commuting -- three jackets, four pants, seven pairs of shorts, two pairs of gloves, three pairs of shoes, and I'm probably forgetting stuff. These wear out pretty quickly when they're used every day and in foul weather, and have to be replaced periodically. The same goes for accessories like lights and panniers. I'd estimate another dime a mile for clothes and accessories.
The thing about these costs are that they are entirely incremental -- each mile travelled by bike incurs costs in worn parts. This makes it hard to compare the cost of cycling with the cost of driving, because typically cars have high fixed costs but low incremental costs. In fact, that's the seductive power of cars -- once you take the plunge, it's cheap to drive the extra mile. I have a car that sits in the driveway most of the time, and I probably drive it fewer miles per year than my bike. It costs me a fortune in depreciation and insurance every year. However, since I drive it so little the incremental cost of driving an extra mile is really just the gas -- about $.10 per mile at current prices.
So for a quick trip to the corner market it is probably cheaper, in economic terms, for me to drive my car than to take my bike. Of course, life is too short to let the cost of things make your decisions for you, so I bike when I can. Commuting is a slightly different story as parking would be $250/month where I work, but still the decision is driven more by quality of life than by economics, and any money saved is just a nice side benefit.
Last edited by DCCommuter; 03-23-05 at 08:45 PM.
#56
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 0
From: Out there, on my bike
Originally Posted by recursive
Well, you should also account for the cost of bike maintenance and accessories and clothing. Your point still stands, but those probably add a significant percentage to the cost.
You can cycle in any clothes. Helmet costs $35-$100 depending on style, but they all have to meet the same crash standards. If you want to spend $100 on shorts, you can, but you don't have to. I have 3 pairs of cycling shorts and 2 longsleeve jerseys and 2 shortsleeve jerseys. I have one pair of tights and one pair of wind pants for winter. I get them on sale only. You don't need a whole new wardrobe every year.
gloves you can get for $20 or less. Shoes depends on what you like. I have a pair of Shimano shoes that I've had for 10 years. The were $40 when I bought them 10 years ago. That's not much.
The previous poster compared his costs for commuting by Metro/car and by bike. He did not add the cost of actually buying his car, insurance, gas, depreciation, etc. to the car equation but he did add the cost of buying the bike to the bike side of the equation.
The difference is huge no matter how you look at it. You can choose to spend alot on a bike and accroutrements. You have no choice on how much you pay to operate a car, even an old car. A gallon of gas is the same no matter what you drive. It's $0 if you ride a bike.
#57
Chairman of the Bored

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,825
Likes: 2
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2004 Raleigh Talus, 2001 Motobecane Vent Noir (Custom build for heavy riders)
Originally Posted by recursive
Well, you should also account for the cost of bike maintenance and accessories and clothing. Your point still stands, but those probably add a significant percentage to the cost.
True, but some of use don't wear cycling clothes..I ride in street clothes, even when riding with others for fun on the weekends...so no cost there other than accelrated wear ont eh groin of my pants....but that's not more than maybe $50-100 a year in new pants/jeans/shorts as a result.
Maintenance...a few rolls of paper towels, a few shop rags, a bucket, dish soap, and lube...not much at all for a year. Add in a few tubes and a pair of tires and it's about $100-150.
Accessories....depends on the person...I just have a large Timbuk2 bag, and a nice light assortment....my helmet and lights were covered on my price to begin post in this thread.
It is true though that it adds about 50% to the cost of a beginner's commuter setup. But as you go to bigger and cooler bikes, the cost is still about the same unless you go weight weenie...but that is the total opposite of a daily driver...that would be like driving a McLaren F1 to work everyday.
#58
Zinophile
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 1
From: Vienna, Virginia
Bikes: Spectrum Ti, Spectrum Track and Lemond Propad
You all are right that I should have included bike maintenance in my calculations. I felt that the cost of gas driving to and from the metro station would offset the amount of money spent on bike maintenance. 700 miles commuting since January 1, the only maintenance items that I have performed were changing the seat ($70, the Bonranger seat hurt my sit bones) on my new Propad and a bottle of Rock and Roll Gold ($17.00).
I usually burned about 5 gallons of premium gas per week to commute to the metro station. Average price $2.20 a gallon. Since I ride four days a week to work, I still burn about 1 gallon of gas per week driving to the metro station. Save 4 gallons of gas per week, or $2.20 * 4 * 12weeks = $105.60.
Therefore, over 12 weeks I saved an additional $18.60.
I usually burned about 5 gallons of premium gas per week to commute to the metro station. Average price $2.20 a gallon. Since I ride four days a week to work, I still burn about 1 gallon of gas per week driving to the metro station. Save 4 gallons of gas per week, or $2.20 * 4 * 12weeks = $105.60.
Therefore, over 12 weeks I saved an additional $18.60.
#59
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 4
From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
I recently did a detailed estimate of the operating costs for a typical bike, when well maintained, and serviced by the owner, not a bike shop. Did it using Swedish prices, of course, so it would be slightly less in the US. Cost is in US$ for convenience.
Initial cost of a mid-priced commuter bike is also figured into this.
Per km = 0.08 - 0.09
Per mile = 0.12 - 0.15
Initial cost of a mid-priced commuter bike is also figured into this.
Per km = 0.08 - 0.09
Per mile = 0.12 - 0.15
#60
Vello Kombi, baby

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 16
From: Je suis ici
Bikes: 1973 Eisentraut; 1970s Richard Sachs; 1978 Alfio Bonnano; 1967 Peugeot PX10
Since most of my bikes cost sub 35$ and I do all my own maintanence, my maintanence costs on my bikes runs to about 200$ a year (I have multiple bikes and I keep them up). Cycle specific clothing is cheap, I bought all mine at local thrifts. I can buy a decent bike for the price of a tank of gas for my little Subaru wagon and get the bike running for about the cost of another tank. That means about 400 miles and the bike is paid for.
__________________
"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"
Waste your money! Buy my comic book!
"It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"
Waste your money! Buy my comic book!
#61
Immoderator
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,630
Likes: 5
From: POS Tennessee
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
I hardly ever think about the relative cost of cycling to car ownership, but everytime I do, I smile.
__________________
Originally Posted by Bikeforums
Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.
#62
Zinophile
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 1
From: Vienna, Virginia
Bikes: Spectrum Ti, Spectrum Track and Lemond Propad
CdCf:
Your calculations got me thinking about my bikes and how much was the cost per mile. I have approximately 135,000 miles on my late 80s Spectrum Ti. Total cost of bike and upgrades through the years is approximately $9K or 6.67 cents per mile. I can say that Ti does last a long time and is worth every penny or other local currency. Additionally, this bike will be used when I do my next PacTour in 2006.
For anyone who does not know what PacTour is:
www.pactour.com
My Propad is currently at $2.12 per mile, but will rapidly drop to about 22 cents per mile by the end of 2005.
Your calculations got me thinking about my bikes and how much was the cost per mile. I have approximately 135,000 miles on my late 80s Spectrum Ti. Total cost of bike and upgrades through the years is approximately $9K or 6.67 cents per mile. I can say that Ti does last a long time and is worth every penny or other local currency. Additionally, this bike will be used when I do my next PacTour in 2006.
For anyone who does not know what PacTour is:
www.pactour.com
My Propad is currently at $2.12 per mile, but will rapidly drop to about 22 cents per mile by the end of 2005.
Last edited by tibikefor2; 03-24-05 at 07:38 AM.
#63
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 4
From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
My estimates were for a daily commute of maybe 10-20 km (one way), in all weather and road conditions (salt, sand, rain, ice and snow). I used rather frequent (by some standards) chain and tyre replacement rates.
I also limited frame "life" to 6-7 years and factored in cleaning costs, and tool costs.
I also limited frame "life" to 6-7 years and factored in cleaning costs, and tool costs.
#64
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX 77095
Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite, Schwinn Frontier FS MTB, Centurion LeMans (1986)
poor people are lousy money managers and can't figure out basic economics
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
__________________
Peter Wang, LCI
Houston, TX USA
Peter Wang, LCI
Houston, TX USA
#66
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu
Bikes: Dahon Presto, Trek MTB, Randonee
When evaluating the savings from biking I feel the most compelling case is going from a 2 car family to 1 car family. I did this a few years ago and have enjoyed the benefits of cycle commuting and car ownership while saving a substantial amount on car expenses.
The main savings I realized were the fixed costs like insurance, repairs, registration, and safety check. Not to mention the depreciation costs on a second car. I figure I save about $200 to $250 per month, plus I rent out my residential parking stall to a neighbor for $50/mo. I already had a bike for my personal enjoyment; I just had to buy a set of fenders for commuting. I guess there is some additional wear and tear on the bike, but it is minimal compared to the other, “pleasure” use of the bike for training and touring.
The main savings I realized were the fixed costs like insurance, repairs, registration, and safety check. Not to mention the depreciation costs on a second car. I figure I save about $200 to $250 per month, plus I rent out my residential parking stall to a neighbor for $50/mo. I already had a bike for my personal enjoyment; I just had to buy a set of fenders for commuting. I guess there is some additional wear and tear on the bike, but it is minimal compared to the other, “pleasure” use of the bike for training and touring.
#68
Originally Posted by kf5nd
poor people are lousy money managers and can't figure out basic economics
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
#69
Zinophile
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 1
From: Vienna, Virginia
Bikes: Spectrum Ti, Spectrum Track and Lemond Propad
Originally Posted by kf5nd
poor people are lousy money managers and can't figure out basic economics
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
You are quite myopic. What you are saying is that if a hypothetical person dropped out of high school to support younger family members, that this person would be a lousy money manager. This person would probably be only to get a job that paid close to minimum wage, unless it was a high risk job. If this hypothetical person was able to support their younger siblings and support them through high school, then this person would be a lousy money manager?
Let's look at another person, but in real life. A new teacher in Fairfax County Virginia would make $38K per year. The average salary in Fairfax County is in excess of $80K. This person would be considered poor, as the person would be hard pressed to live in Fairfax County. Would this person be necessarily a lousy money manager.
Guess all of the people in this world do not have the insight of a true Texan.
#70
beer drinker
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: california
Bikes: trek 950
Originally Posted by DCCommuter
...
I In fact, that's the seductive power of cars -- once you take the plunge, it's cheap to drive the extra mile. I have a car that sits in the driveway most of the time, and I probably drive it fewer miles per year than my bike. It costs me a fortune in depreciation and insurance every year. However, since I drive it so little the incremental cost of driving an extra mile is really just the gas -- about $.10 per mile at current prices.
So for a quick trip to the corner market it is probably cheaper, in economic terms, for me to drive my car than to take my bike. Of course, life is too short to let the cost of things make your decisions for you, so I bike when I can. Commuting is a slightly different story as parking would be $250/month where I work, but still the decision is driven more by quality of life than by economics, and any money saved is just a nice side benefit.
I In fact, that's the seductive power of cars -- once you take the plunge, it's cheap to drive the extra mile. I have a car that sits in the driveway most of the time, and I probably drive it fewer miles per year than my bike. It costs me a fortune in depreciation and insurance every year. However, since I drive it so little the incremental cost of driving an extra mile is really just the gas -- about $.10 per mile at current prices.
So for a quick trip to the corner market it is probably cheaper, in economic terms, for me to drive my car than to take my bike. Of course, life is too short to let the cost of things make your decisions for you, so I bike when I can. Commuting is a slightly different story as parking would be $250/month where I work, but still the decision is driven more by quality of life than by economics, and any money saved is just a nice side benefit.
pennies < fortune
glad you choose not to base your decisions on economics.
#71
Immoderator
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,630
Likes: 5
From: POS Tennessee
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
Originally Posted by kf5nd
poor people are lousy money managers and can't figure out basic economics
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
that's why they're poor
so don't take cues from them
UNCTUATION.
__________________
Originally Posted by Bikeforums
Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.
#72
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
I was waiting for someone to mention that. Everyone so far seems to have bikes that are maintenance-free. I commute every day of the year, and my bike eats parts.
EBay is your friend, too. The number one consumable bike item for me is brake pads. I just scored a lot of old kool stop pads for $10 shipped. 8 pair.
#73
Originally Posted by acorn54
well
i work about 3 miles from my house and only use my car for t he travel to work and back and i only put about $20 (10 gallons) of gas in my car. if my car gets 20mpg and i drive only 180 m iles a month you can see why i only use $240 year in gas. yes my insurance is 600 year since i dont have collision and my car is a 1988 cutlass cierra. so that is $840/yr. my maintenance and repair and inspection costs were $600 for the past year so that's a total of $1440 in cost for my car. a bus every day 7 days a week costs me $1500 for the year if i used it to get to work and to do errands.
acorn
i work about 3 miles from my house and only use my car for t he travel to work and back and i only put about $20 (10 gallons) of gas in my car. if my car gets 20mpg and i drive only 180 m iles a month you can see why i only use $240 year in gas. yes my insurance is 600 year since i dont have collision and my car is a 1988 cutlass cierra. so that is $840/yr. my maintenance and repair and inspection costs were $600 for the past year so that's a total of $1440 in cost for my car. a bus every day 7 days a week costs me $1500 for the year if i used it to get to work and to do errands.
acorn
#74
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 4
From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Even walking 3 miles takes fairly little time.
40-45 minutes at a reasonable walking pace.
40-45 minutes at a reasonable walking pace.





