I am still interested in belt drive.... i m looking to get a SE tripel.... i think i may see if i can't get that hooked up with a gates centertrack belt drive at some point.

- Andy

The real pain in the hindquarters with IGH hubs and tire repair are those with a coaster brake reaction arm that mounts to the chainstay...

I've only had to change the tire on mine (Shimano 7-speed), never had to repair a flat in the 9 months that I have had it. I really wish this old, second-hand bike didn't have the coaster brake but a hand brake instead, but this setup is common here in Scandinavia.

No grease is a major advantage for people like me who bike everywhere in their normal clothes.

+1.

It is sad, if not shameful, how few cyclists patch their tubes. To patch a tube takes little more time than replacing the tube, and the properly patched tube is every bit as good as a new one. In terms of money, new tubes cost ten or twenty times as much as patches. In environmental terms... oh, I will spare you the lecture, but really I was just getting started.

You know, if it was a big problem it seems to me that you could have the spare tube already looped inside the triangle, bag it up or something and strapped to a stay down by the axle. That way you could change your tube also without having to take the wheel off, or even having to loosen it. Heck maybe you could keep 2 or 3 tubes that way just in case.

Have you seen the Gaadi Bicycle Tube by Rubena.


The design is to remove the tube without removing the wheel.

Nice, but what I really want to know is how she was carrying it and those tools so discretely.

I ride a Rohloff equipped Gates Carbon drive bike. Taking the rear wheel out is no different than a derailleur equipped bike.
1. Remove external gear mech from hub
2. Open Locknut or quick release
3. Move snubber to outside position
4. Lift wheel out of frame without getting hands dirty since belt is not oiled and full with grime
5. Fix flat
6. Reverse steps

I have an old Raleigh 3 speed. I really don't want to get a flat on that thing....so I have thorn proof tubes and tires with puncture resistance. It will ahve to be something pretty major to get through both tire and tube. 

Step 2 is often easier said then done, especially in the dark, or under noisy conditions by the side of a busy road or windy conditions when listening for air escaping from a leak is not as easy as saying just do it.

Step 5 may be impossible under freezing or wet weather conditions. Ever try getting rubber cement from a frozen container or applying a patch to a wet tube? The only carrying on will be the unfortunate fellow carrying his sorry self and flatted bike to shelter.

heh this is also why I keep the helmet mount for my front light attached to my helmet. If I have a flat in the dark I can pop my light off the handlebars and onto the helmet so I can see what I'm doing! I've never had to use it yet, though.

I carry a tube so that I can just pop in a new tube and worry about patching later. I did just replace my commuter bike's rear tube last week because it already had at least 4 patches on it, and it was leaking air faster than normal somewhere. I had it up over 100 PSI that morning, and by the time I got home that evening it had about 30 PSI in it.

Someone in the forum suggested using a cotton ball to wipe the inside of the tire. If anything is sticking through the casing it should snag a few strands of the cotton so you can make sure to remove it before putting in the backup tube. My most common flat is from radial tire wires that are very small and hard to find. I also carry a small pair of tweezers to pull the glass or wire out before installing the tube.

That sounds like a great idea for those with longer rides & those that ride in any weather!

- Andy

I ordered several of those from Holland recently, should have them in the next few days. They are available on Amazon, but I wanted them with Dunlop valves.

Why did you choose dunlop valves?

I think the modern style Dunlop valve works better, and is more convenient than Schrader or Presta valves.

Using eccentric BB +/or vertical sliding dropouts you should be able to re tension the belt, as you put the wheel back in.

As I recall past posts he got a Dutch Bike with what is a common utilitarian type Inner tube in Europe , and was flummoxed initially.

But has now learned why that 3rd valve type is still sold, and likes it.

If you want to see some really well thought out belt drive bikes, go to the TiCycles website. They have the dropout issues solved very nicely. They have also built bikes with just one set of stays, no left side, so you can just lay the bike down and pull the tire and tube right off with the wheel in place, never messing with the belt tension.

If you are considering a belt drive, it is worth looking at their stuff just to see what can be done. (Re-fitting bikes is also something they do a lot of: for belts, for S&S couplers, etc.)

Ben

I had good luck with the Dunlop valves on the bike tubes on my German bikes, but never found them "more convenient" than Schrader valves which can be refilled without an adapter at any gas station or garage air pump worldwide.

On a trip in the Florida Keys last week I got a flat per day on my rear wheel from tiny bits of wire. I think the front wheel kicked up the wire and the rear wheel picked it up. These were all slow leaks that took a couple minutes to lose the air. Took off the rear wheel to change the tube for the first flat, but once I realized all I needed to do was find the wire and pinhole, the next three flats were patched leaving the wheel on. Saves a bit of time, and repairing on the bike is no more difficult than removing the wheel and repairing off the bike.

While I do have a Dutch bike, you may have me confused with someone else as Dunlop valves aren't new to me. I first encountered them when I was stationed in Germany in the early 80s.

More convenient as they're easier to remove the valve and deflate, don't loose air when disconnecting pump or checking pressure, useses the same pump fitting as a presta, and seems to be less susceptible to moisture and corrosion.
Nothing big, but I do like them better, can order them directly from Schwalbe, and get them the next day as their world DC is here in Washington.

I only hear the air from the Pump hose escaping so I Dont understand your problem, maybe technique?

I have 1 valve cap with the removal tool on my Schrader tube bikes un screwing the valve core is no challenge.

Yea Schwalbe sells tubes with all 3 stems .. I have A/V 4 in my Brompton.

I guess I'm a total klutz, whenever I check the pressure, or top off any tire using a Schrader valve, I let a bit of air escape, sometimes a lot. Doesn't matter if I'm using my Park floor pump, Park frame pump, compressor, or various other pumps, it's always the same.

I keep a valve core tool cap on my bikes, and motorcycle, but I sure do like being able to remove a Dunlop valve core as easily as removing a Schrader cap without any tool.

I'm intrigued by the universal valve core that Alligator sells that works with all 3 types of valves. The real bonus is it converts a Schrader to a Presta/Dunlop.
A universal valve core and cap is $1, so next time I order something from Holland I'll get enough to convert my other bikes with some spares.