Help me pick a controller for my ebike project.
07-22-13 | 09:08 AM
#1
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Help me pick a controller for my ebike project.
I'm putting together an ebike and with the help of posters from here, I have the hub motor and battery being shipped as I type this.
Hub motor thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-hub-questions
Battery thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ts-of-purchase
So now I need a controller to finish the project.
The hub is a MAC 500watt geared motor.
The battery is a 48v 20ah LiFePO4 using 32 of the 38120 batteries. It's BMS tops out at 60ah. There was no option for a higher setup. But this rig is only for getting me up some of the steep bike trail hills in my local parkway.
I don't know the first thing about this, so i'll be going by what I learn here.
Hub motor thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-hub-questions
Battery thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ts-of-purchase
So now I need a controller to finish the project.
The hub is a MAC 500watt geared motor.
The battery is a 48v 20ah LiFePO4 using 32 of the 38120 batteries. It's BMS tops out at 60ah. There was no option for a higher setup. But this rig is only for getting me up some of the steep bike trail hills in my local parkway.
I don't know the first thing about this, so i'll be going by what I learn here.
07-22-13 | 11:04 AM
#3
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So i'm hoping to get some info on the competition, even if it winds up that the Infineon controllers are the best bet.
Also, I just looked through the Infineon selections and now I remember why I didn't spend much time on there.
They have a lot of options that I don't understand, so I don't even know where to start.
Here's an example: https://em3ev.com/store/index.php?rou...&product_id=79
Last edited by Monsoon; 07-22-13 at 11:08 AM.
07-22-13 | 01:58 PM
#4
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From: Michigan
Bikes: too many of all kinds
I was thinking more along the line of what specifications did he recommend? Power, voltage, current...?
Personally, the only one's I know of are the inexpensive KU63, 93, and 123 which are 6, 9, and 12 mosfet (putting out something like 15, 22, and 30amps). Those will work, but I'm sure there are better alternatives out there if you want higher quality. If you want 30amps at 36/48volts (like in that link you provided) the KU123 might be a low cost option. Those do have a power drain (~4w) when not in use so you will have to disconnect them when not in use (unlike the EM3 controllers).
Personally, the only one's I know of are the inexpensive KU63, 93, and 123 which are 6, 9, and 12 mosfet (putting out something like 15, 22, and 30amps). Those will work, but I'm sure there are better alternatives out there if you want higher quality. If you want 30amps at 36/48volts (like in that link you provided) the KU123 might be a low cost option. Those do have a power drain (~4w) when not in use so you will have to disconnect them when not in use (unlike the EM3 controllers).
07-22-13 | 07:37 PM
#5
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I was thinking more along the line of what specifications did he recommend? Power, voltage, current...?
Personally, the only one's I know of are the inexpensive KU63, 93, and 123 which are 6, 9, and 12 mosfet (putting out something like 15, 22, and 30amps). Those will work, but I'm sure there are better alternatives out there if you want higher quality. If you want 30amps at 36/48volts (like in that link you provided) the KU123 might be a low cost option. Those do have a power drain (~4w) when not in use so you will have to disconnect them when not in use (unlike the EM3 controllers).
Personally, the only one's I know of are the inexpensive KU63, 93, and 123 which are 6, 9, and 12 mosfet (putting out something like 15, 22, and 30amps). Those will work, but I'm sure there are better alternatives out there if you want higher quality. If you want 30amps at 36/48volts (like in that link you provided) the KU123 might be a low cost option. Those do have a power drain (~4w) when not in use so you will have to disconnect them when not in use (unlike the EM3 controllers).
other than saying that a 6 FET controller is acceptable for a 10T hub.
but i've seen some kits that come with led screens for the controllers, where you can monitor what's going on.
I don't see that with the Infineions on their site, but i'm not sure if that's just an addon or what.
07-23-13 | 08:56 AM
#6
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From: Michigan
Bikes: too many of all kinds
It looks like the specs are 30 amps. Voltage and current are key parameters for your build. Too much power and your will melt or brake something, too little and you wont' get the performance you want.
The controler you linked to was 30 amps.
The LED screens are not particularly useful for lifepo4 batteries, as they tend to hold constant voltage and then drop fairly fast. I hear they make more sense with li-ion or maybe lipo. As my terrain is pretty consistant, I know I can go 25 miles, so I just use that to judge my range.
You could also wire an inexpensive watt meter to allow you to check how much power is left with your battery.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Digita...item2a28384842
The controler you linked to was 30 amps.
The LED screens are not particularly useful for lifepo4 batteries, as they tend to hold constant voltage and then drop fairly fast. I hear they make more sense with li-ion or maybe lipo. As my terrain is pretty consistant, I know I can go 25 miles, so I just use that to judge my range.
You could also wire an inexpensive watt meter to allow you to check how much power is left with your battery.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Digita...item2a28384842
07-24-13 | 10:08 PM
#7
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It looks like the specs are 30 amps. Voltage and current are key parameters for your build. Too much power and your will melt or brake something, too little and you wont' get the performance you want.
The controler you linked to was 30 amps.
The LED screens are not particularly useful for lifepo4 batteries, as they tend to hold constant voltage and then drop fairly fast. I hear they make more sense with li-ion or maybe lipo. As my terrain is pretty consistant, I know I can go 25 miles, so I just use that to judge my range.
You could also wire an inexpensive watt meter to allow you to check how much power is left with your battery.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Digita...item2a28384842
The controler you linked to was 30 amps.
The LED screens are not particularly useful for lifepo4 batteries, as they tend to hold constant voltage and then drop fairly fast. I hear they make more sense with li-ion or maybe lipo. As my terrain is pretty consistant, I know I can go 25 miles, so I just use that to judge my range.
You could also wire an inexpensive watt meter to allow you to check how much power is left with your battery.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Digita...item2a28384842
Depending on how well the setup goes, I might not bother with a display.
Although the fancy ones like the Cycle Analyst can meter and do quite a bit of cool stuff.
But I could always just put a multimeter on the terminals every couple of rides to see where the charge is.
07-25-13 | 09:17 AM
#8
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,862
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From: Michigan
Bikes: too many of all kinds
Manual methods:
I just rode until the battery was dead (and then pedaled manually to get home) and that gave me my range. Works best in flat areas where there is not much variation to the power needs of the motor.
That and I know it takes 5 hours to charge a dead battery, so knowing how long it takes to recharge (some fraction of that 5 hours) tells me how much power I used. If it takes me 2.5 hours to recharge, I know I have used half of the batteries capacity.
Also...
You will get best lifespan of the battery if you don’t use it at full charge or near empty, and don’t use the full power of the battery (based on AH * C-rate).
To do this, charge to 90% of the battery capacity (requires a charger with this option) and don’t discharge below 30% of capacity. That and make sure your battery’s C rate is a lot higher than what you need. Those Headway batteries at 10C will be fine, but a battery rated at 1C is going to be stressed.
Obviously you can use the full capacity of the battery, but if you consistently run it dry, and often ask it to run at full current, you will shorten its life.
That probably applies more to Li-Ion batteries that don’t last as long as lifepo4, but the same applies to both.
I just rode until the battery was dead (and then pedaled manually to get home) and that gave me my range. Works best in flat areas where there is not much variation to the power needs of the motor.
That and I know it takes 5 hours to charge a dead battery, so knowing how long it takes to recharge (some fraction of that 5 hours) tells me how much power I used. If it takes me 2.5 hours to recharge, I know I have used half of the batteries capacity.
Also...
You will get best lifespan of the battery if you don’t use it at full charge or near empty, and don’t use the full power of the battery (based on AH * C-rate).
To do this, charge to 90% of the battery capacity (requires a charger with this option) and don’t discharge below 30% of capacity. That and make sure your battery’s C rate is a lot higher than what you need. Those Headway batteries at 10C will be fine, but a battery rated at 1C is going to be stressed.
Obviously you can use the full capacity of the battery, but if you consistently run it dry, and often ask it to run at full current, you will shorten its life.
That probably applies more to Li-Ion batteries that don’t last as long as lifepo4, but the same applies to both.
08-02-13 | 11:25 AM
#9
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Manual methods:
I just rode until the battery was dead (and then pedaled manually to get home) and that gave me my range. Works best in flat areas where there is not much variation to the power needs of the motor.
That and I know it takes 5 hours to charge a dead battery, so knowing how long it takes to recharge (some fraction of that 5 hours) tells me how much power I used. If it takes me 2.5 hours to recharge, I know I have used half of the batteries capacity.
Also...
You will get best lifespan of the battery if you don’t use it at full charge or near empty, and don’t use the full power of the battery (based on AH * C-rate).
To do this, charge to 90% of the battery capacity (requires a charger with this option) and don’t discharge below 30% of capacity. That and make sure your battery’s C rate is a lot higher than what you need. Those Headway batteries at 10C will be fine, but a battery rated at 1C is going to be stressed.
Obviously you can use the full capacity of the battery, but if you consistently run it dry, and often ask it to run at full current, you will shorten its life.
That probably applies more to Li-Ion batteries that don’t last as long as lifepo4, but the same applies to both.
I just rode until the battery was dead (and then pedaled manually to get home) and that gave me my range. Works best in flat areas where there is not much variation to the power needs of the motor.
That and I know it takes 5 hours to charge a dead battery, so knowing how long it takes to recharge (some fraction of that 5 hours) tells me how much power I used. If it takes me 2.5 hours to recharge, I know I have used half of the batteries capacity.
Also...
You will get best lifespan of the battery if you don’t use it at full charge or near empty, and don’t use the full power of the battery (based on AH * C-rate).
To do this, charge to 90% of the battery capacity (requires a charger with this option) and don’t discharge below 30% of capacity. That and make sure your battery’s C rate is a lot higher than what you need. Those Headway batteries at 10C will be fine, but a battery rated at 1C is going to be stressed.
Obviously you can use the full capacity of the battery, but if you consistently run it dry, and often ask it to run at full current, you will shorten its life.
That probably applies more to Li-Ion batteries that don’t last as long as lifepo4, but the same applies to both.
Which btw, is a bit odd that it's taking longer for the controller and throttle set to ship than I expected, considering how light it is. And I selected air mail.
