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ebike not working

Old 01-12-15, 09:18 AM
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ebike not working

Okay so i've been collecting parts for the last year (reading up & buying parts) but my ebike is still refusing to go, as this is my 1st ebike ever i dunno what could be broke or wrong, do i need a cyclist analyst before the bike will go as i have no LED panel of any-sort, i was hoping i could plug my lipos straight into the skeleton to see if it works before i spend any extra cash on a broken e-bike so if anybody could help out or point me out into the correct direction i'd be grateful.

at first i thought nothing was happening due to the PAS so decided to buy a twist throttle instead of using the thumb throttle to hopefully bypass but still nothing happening.



e-bike 48V rear wheel nine continent
2 lipo 5000Mah 22.2V i broke one in the process of beer drinking, crossed the wires doing a solder to Xt60's
basic controller with a continent hub motor from ebay 1000W
twist throttle changed from thumb throttle to bypass PAS



i'm kinda broke so having a failed experiment would really suck



Last edited by Looncan; 01-12-15 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 01-12-15, 02:22 PM
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Am I seeing that correctly? You're trying to run a 1000W 48v motor off a single 22v LiPo? If so, there's your problem.
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Old 01-12-15, 08:24 PM
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In an attempt to be slightly more helpful, from those pics and your statement you blew one of the batteries, it looks like you're supplying neither enough amps nor enough voltage to the controller to run the motor.

I have a 36v motor that I overvolt to 48v. I have 4 6s 5000mAh batteries. As you can see in the pics, two sets of the batteries are first wired in series to create 2 nominal 48v 5Ah batteries. These are then wired in parallel to create a single 10Ah 48v battery. That powers a 36v 350W hub motor. The balance leads are wired together so I can balance charge the two banks independently, rather than having to pull the whole thing apart and charge each battery separately. Also, I used Andersen connectors to simplify the connections and make pull-apart (should I need to) really easy.

You don't need a cycle analyst to make it work. Essentially if you have a battery, a controller, a motor, and a throttle, you're good to go. The cycle analyst will help you fine-tune any pedal assist, monitor battery usage, and provide cutoff if you run the battery down too low, but again, it's an enhancement, not a requirement.

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Old 01-13-15, 07:36 PM
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oh okay so that's why it wasn't working, i soldered some Xt60's to my damaged Lipo and put them into parallel an the ebike turned on so i have two brand new LIPOs but one is damaged and a cell won't balance all other cells seem fine though.


My two main questions at current
1).If a lipo goes under 3V does that means it's dead? all other cells remain over 3V apart from 1 cell
2).My solder station is metal and i never use LIPOS, so the LIPO went BZZZZZZzzzzz so i thought it was dead, should i trust it, or is it the Omen waiting to kill me in my sleep
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Old 01-14-15, 01:12 PM
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If a LiPo cell discharges below 3.0v, it's very likely damaged. Recharging that cell presents a serious risk of fire. LiPo's no joke and you shouldn't fool around with it if you don't know what you're doing.

I found these two resources particularly helpful bringing myself up to speed:

All You Need To Know About - LiPo's
Endless-sphere.com ? View topic - RC Lipo series charging tutorial

The boards at endless-sphere have more info and are more active than the electric bike board here on bikeforums. I read everything I could find before building my battery and I still made a mistake buying a charger that couldn't handle the 5Ah 6s LiPos. When all was said and done, my batteries cost about $275 to set up and build and then I spent that again on a charger and power supply.
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