For Example...
 

Well With my Schmidt LED/Dynamo set and B&M double Torx fitting bolt on the light, I have no issue either.. but NB;

An example of a rather common DC power supply Inline plug can be clearly seen (?)

you could find them at aRadioShack Store...


Have now a couple 349 wheel bikes 1 I put the Nicer Schmidt new XS Brompton wheel in replacing the less reliable Shimano Brompton wheel
turned out (in addition to the plug on the hub coming loose, it can lose the ground, with axle nut loosening ..

fixed that , my Bike Friday Tikit is a candidate QR swap, put it in, stick the dynamo Blaze on the bar mount and boom! ready to go..







....

I've been using Radio Shack (R.I.P.) silicone grease on my dynohub connections for years. It's great for preventing corrosion, especially in a salty environment. It's only a minor nuisance when removing the plug from the dynohub.

Not long ago I changed the QR skewer on my bike, removing the lightweight and elegant aluminum-and-titanium one and installing an old school chromed steel one. Why? The axle (and wiring connector etc) all tended to rotate forward (direction of rotation) no matter how tight I made it. It rarely turned far enough to cause damage, but the potential was there.

On all the hubs we're discussing here, the wiring connections are oriented radially. The old Sturmey Archer Dyno-hub has connectors parallel to the axle, also not ideal.

Someone should design a wiring connector that is oriented tangentially to the axis, with one part attached to the hub, the other to the fork, so forward rotation on the wheel effectively pushes the parts together. This would make for an easy removal of the wheel....

There is the Schmidt SON SL hub and fork dropout that doesn't require any connectors at all.... well, at least not any connectors in the usual sense.
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-sl.php
It does require specific dropouts to be used, but is otherwise not too difficult to incorporate into the bike.

Steve in Peoria

you can get the SL contact retrofitted into a fork, but the tools are justifiably expensive.

I have never heard of that happening. Interesting. Which hub was that?

Sometimes I run a conventional quick release skewer. And sometimes I use a bolt on one that uses a 5mm Allen wrench instead of quick release for better theft resistance since you need a tool to steal the wheel. I have never had a problem with the axle rotating. I have a couple Shimano hubs and a couple SP hubs, all for rim brakes.

If I had such a problem, I probably would buy a couple toothed lock washers at the hardware store to put between the hub and dropouts.

I did find my Cord wrapped a bit around my axle , I assume it was a little magnetic drag from the dynamo ,
combined with my QR skewer not being tight enough..

So, From then on, I give the Skewer a little more tension , and that never happened again...







...

Schmidt SL is better added to the specifications of a new custom built bike.. fork tip is + face with a wire & insulated from rest of fork..


I let my QR be a bit loose, .. an elastic Titanium skewer would do that , stretching rather than tightening..

I gave my QR , steel, and that, a wrap of my cable slack, never happened again, with a bit more clamping tension, on the skewer ..

I have the SON SL you mentioned with the custom fork, since I had a custom bike built to my specs and the SL connection works very well. Taking the wheel out is a breeze without having to fiddle with the spade connectors.
I can only recommend it, if you go the route of getting a custom fork.

They used to link to some places that made forks with the SL connector fork tip, you could buy as a separate part, but their current site no longer does that

https://nabendynamo.de/en/products/sl/

I have the Son SL hub on my Co-Motion Pangea Rohloff. Co-Motion did not want to run the wire through the fork and I agreed with there reasoning on this. I just wanted the no hassle removal of the front wheel. I am setting up a Son 28 on my sons Fuji touring bike. I ordered the Edelux II with the coaxial plug already on it.

how did they run the wire?

Options here: https://nabendynamo.de/en/products/sl/

Rick said they didn't want to run the wire through the fork like Schmidt intended. Just curious how they did end up running the wire.

Son's coax adapter combined with its coax wires and connectors?
https://i.imgur.com/xgRBIbd.jpg

Or Supernova's gold connectors. Supernova gold connectors

I am waiting for the final parts so I can build a front wheel with everthing wired up nicely with a combination of Son, Supernova and B+M connectors. Probably going through the front rack.

the supernova connectors (or nearly identical RC motor connectors) will probably break the wire if forcibly separated. As one does occasionally. When I swapped out my lights using the supernova connectors, it was difficult to get the connectors apart. I'm not sure how many times you can pull the Schmidt coax connector apart without thinking, but I think the chances they will survive unharmed is pretty good.

I am not saying anything against the connectors described in this thread, just tossing out another option. I do not have a Son hub, I use Shimano and SP hubs and use their connectors at the hubs.

When I got my first dynohub and first dyno powered headlamp that had the 2.8mm spade connectors, I decided to standardize on the 2.8mm connectors everywhere that I was going to plug or unplug wires.

And for several years I had one dynohub that I used on three different forks. So, I zip tied wire and hub connectors to the fork blade on all three of those forks so it was easy to move the wheel from fork to fork, used the 2.8mm connectors near the fork crown on those wires on each fork.

As an example in the photo, I have those 2.8mm connectors in the wires between the light and the fork crown. Little bit of black electrical tape was used to insulate the metal on the connectors to prevent shorts. At the time the photo was taken, no dyno powered taillight was used, thus the wiring was immensely simple.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86beecb1d3.jpg

Since then I have accumulated a few more dynohubs and lights, also have some dyno powered taillights too, but still using the 2.8mm wire connectors everywhere that I need to plug a couple wires together.

Hi Steve in Peoria,

I like your quick release connections! how are the Amphenol pins and sockets connected to the dynamo wiring? is it soldered or crimped?

I am searching for a way to quickly remove head and tail lights for my new folding bike.

looking at-
supernova gold banana adapters- kind of expensive, some sites says need to solder connections other says crimp????
edelux coaxial adaptor- also expensive and need to solder- trying to avoid soldering as i have no experience
2.8 mm spade connectors- inexpensive, need crimper

the amphenol pins and sockets look like a more affordable supernova adaptors. I looked for images and some show an end to be crimped and others show a round cylinder?

how are your's connected?

thank you

I don't think the supernova banana connectors can be crimped. I am pretty sure they are meant to be soldered. I used a batch of them on my travel bike. A pair at the rear fender, a pair inside the down tube at the coupler, a pair so I could swap headlights, and 3 pairs so I could remove the front rack, which has the headlight on it.

I actually used a number of the Velo Lumino banana connectors as well as the supernova. Installation hardware The Velo Lumino are shorter, but they are pretty much the same size otherwise

I solder mine, but there is a crimp tool made for them. The tool is rather pricey.... I'm guessing about $100 or more?... which really only makes sense if you are using these pins quite a lot.
I also use the soldering iron to shrink the heat-shrink tubing over the wire and connector junction.

there are pro's and con's to both crimping and soldering. If I have access to the proper crimp tool, I usually prefer it. It's faster and produces a more consistent connection.
However... soldering is useful in so many areas of electrical work that it's not a bad idea to buy a cheap soldering iron and some rosin core solder and give it a try. It's best if someone can teach you how to do it, but perhaps youtube videos are good enough?? There is a minor learning curve before you figure out how much heat is enough, how and when to apply the solder, when the flux has properly cleaned the surfaces about to be soldered, etc.

Steve in Peoria

freckles I'm curious to know why you want your lights detachable. I don't have a folding bike, and I lock my bike outside in a high bike theft city. I thought having bolted on lights would be a problem, but I haven't had any trouble.

for soldering- would this one from harbor freight work? https://www.harborfreight.com/30-wat...ron-69060.html
along with the helping hand to hold while soldering? https://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html

hi noglider,

its for a folding bicycle that is taken apart to fit into a suitcase. i want to make the lights detachable while keeping the dynamo wiring intact when in the suitcase.

plus, i was going to buy a new head light for my Oma but realize if i add the banana or amphenol pins/sockets to her wiring too, i can use the edeluxII for both bikes!

i live in a high theft area too but don't leave my bike outside for very long

2.0 mm bullets
 

would these work for making quick connects? they are 2 mm, the supernova ones do not say what size it is.

would be for making connections to Son coaxial wiring and regular 2 wire ( on oma)

SoloGood Amass 2.0MM Gold Plated Male and Female Bullet Banana Connectors for DIY RC Battery ESC Motor (20 Pairs)

or these are 2.8mm crimping spade connectors https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Connec...1617011&sr=8-4
are these utter crap?

A basic soldering iron like that should be adequate. It is very similar to a 15W iron that I bought from Radio Shack and used for decades.

I've never used the "helping hands" type device, but it could be useful for holding the connector pins. I use a pair of forceps, but you can also wrap a rubber band around the grips of a pair of needle-nose pliers to get a similar function.

Steve in Peoria

The banana style connectors could be fine. ... or might not be?
Personally, I like to stick with manufacturers that I know and who have demonstrated good quality. That's one reason why I use the Amphenol pins and sockets.
One option might be to visit a hobby shop that deals with RC cars and see if they sell one like the SoloGood ones. The shop presumably wouldn't be selling stuff that wasn't reasonably decent quality.

The spade connectors aren't designed to be connected and disconnected more than a few times. I wouldn't use them for an application where you expected to make numerous connection cycles.

Steve in Peoria

I bought some RC connectors from HobbyKing that seem pretty nice. The ones I see in hobby shops look to be pretty good. If you can find a hobby shop. I imagine there are some that aren't quite as good, but probably will work okay. I had a supernova setup for 4 years and when I finally disconnected it, it was quite difficult.

I need to replenish my stock. Velo Lumino is a bit expensive, but they are nice pins.

did Velo Lumino change stock? their gold plated banana connectors are $2.00 per pair- a great deal if the same quality as the supernova ones ($15-19).

I'm comparing the cost of the Velo Lumino to rc connectors, not supernova. I got the supernova connectors with my light. They are pretty elaborate and quite large for what they are.