Quick release connections for dynamo hub
 

Originally, my first thought was the Shimano dynamo hub plug, but then I remembered that although it will slide over the prongs of the Schmidt, the plug is too fat/blades too thin for good contact.

What you can do is leave the spade connectors connected to the hub and then install some other connectors several inches down the line that are intended to be seperated/reconnected easily. If you had the proper crimper, Anderson Power Pole® would be my go-to since, my other hobby is HAM radio, I have drawers full of 'em. But any waterproof automotive electrical connector along those lines would work just as well.

I would take the time to solder and then shrink wrap whatever connection terminals you decide on for durability, in any case.

Diy..
 

With SON hubs you make the spade connectors easier to reach by how you orient them when you put the wheel in.. that's free..
How often to you have to pull the front wheel?

There are Inline power supply plugs you can solder in yourself Schmidt Co Ax cable makes that a bit more difficult...

with no Radio shack locally you can try this company Parts-express ..I use their services..






...

The Shimano and SP connectors are the same. I can't imagine you could damage anything on the SP hubs with one of those connectors. But I however once did accidentally pull the wires out of a Shimano or SP connector when I was wearing gloves (winter) and was not careful enough to get a good grip on the connector. From that I learned that I need to be more careful when I pull the plug off.

In the photo I have a SP hub and Shimano connector. If the photo is a bit confusing, I have a front Tubus Tara rack on the bike. I have never used a SON hub, have nothing to suggest on that hub.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...701681a37c.jpg

I haven't used this but it seems like it's what you're looking for?

https://www.harriscyclery.net/produc...ector-5448.htm
https://www.harriscyclery.net/mercha.../dyna-snap.jpg

I've always found that the Shimano connector, if oriented as Tourist illustrates, falls off the hub if I forget to remove it when I drop the wheel.

Perhaps gently loosening the SON connector (if that's what OP has) just a tiny bit with a small, flat blade screwdriver would suffice?

Littleford Dyna-Snap
 

Interesting find!
littlefordbicycles.com/dyna-snap-com/
dyna-snap.com

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...21c3b14182.png

You can get gold-plated banana plugs in the proper size for generators from the people that sell Sinewave, too. It's a good idea, whichever you do, to stagger the plugs by a centimeter, or so, so you can't accidentally plug it into the wrong wire (or simply reverse the connectors on each wire).

I was going to suggest before you did, though, that you relieve the spade connectors a bit. They need to be snug, but not so tight that they are nigh impossible to remove; stick a slightly small flatblade screwdriver in the female connector, and wallow a bit (hold the connector with a pair of needlenose pliers, if you have to), and test the fit periodically.

OK, but..
 

NB: (Been mentioned before) But they are single conductor, not coax, so you need to buy 2.. 1 for each wire..

planet bike dynamo headlight uses an inline coax plug .. it is used to remove the light when you park the bike , so it wont get stolen. while you are @ work ..

https://www.planetbike.com/store/med...head_light.jpg

The official Schmidt coax connector is pretty slick and comes apart really easily. I haven't used mine yet, but a friend says he has pulled it apart by taking the wheel out with no issues. It's expensive though. I went to Peter J. White's website first, looking for a picture, but he doesn't actually have a picture of the part. Compass does: https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...axial-adapter/

I was designing a shimano-style connector for schmidts when I found out about the coax, so I lost interest. Anyone wants the files can ask

I was going to make a comment about the crime-ridden area where you live and ride, then I noticed the quick-release light mount.

Haven't had that problem (yet?) with my bolted-on lights.

They are available as 1,2 and 3 connection version.

I thought I would face this concern so I built for it. I later discovered it wasn't necessary for me. But if it is for you, you can do this easily and cheaply enough. I used CCTV power connectors. The males are here, and oddly enough, the females are unavailable. I guess you have to do some searching but maybe this is enough to go on.

I have to remember to undo these connectors before removing my wheel. They're very strong, and on the few times I forgot, they held together, and the original plug came out of the hub.

for what it's worth, this is what I've been using with my first generation Schmidt dynamo for a very long time (18 years??)
I use some Amphenol pins and sockets. Nice reliable parts, available at Digi-key with p/n's #889-1233-ND and #889-1232-ND. No reason that any other quality pins and sockets wouldn't work too.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5779/2...95bfb3_c_d.jpg

I've got a 3rd generation Schmidt with a very similar arrangement, albeit with wires that blend in a bit better. :)

Steve in Peoria

Somewhat interestingly, B&M spades have ridges and a corresponding hole (like a zip tie mechanism) to help hold them together without being unreasonably difficult to get apart. I realize it doesn't help the larger spade size, since B&M only makes the smaller ones, but there you go.

How about a connector that is made for harsh environments? It might be heresy but a heavy duty vehicle connect would probably work, wouldn't be too expensive, would resist water & dirt ingress, and would be easy to separate even with gloves on. Something like a Deutsch DTM series should work well (go with the solid contacts, they have lower resistance.)(Batts Racing isn't the cheapest source, but they make it much easier than trying to figure it out from Deutsch's site.) Add a drop of NyoGel 760G on each contact and the connector should last forever and wouldn't vibrate apart. Just an opinion from someone who designs electronics for harsh environments.

I've worked with the Deutsch connectors quite a bit in the earth moving industry. Hugely less expensive than the mil-spec stuff I worked with when doing avionics (a.k.a. aircraft electronics), but still quite rugged and reliable. In fact, the pins I show in my recent post are used in the Deutsch connectors. My only issue with the connectors is that they are rather bulky for bike applications.
I've had pretty good luck with just the pins and sockets, and perhaps a bit of dielectric grease now and then. The nickle plating on the contacts are quite resistant to corrosion, though, even in lousy conditions such as shown below....

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8679/1...095a7d_c_d.jpg

Steve in Peoria (no snow right now)

Cheap and easy solution:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a350894309.jpg

Step by step, no solder instructions here.

Idea shamelessly stolen from [MENTION=137164]southpawboston[/MENTION], aka Velo Lumino

The DTM series is substantially smaller than the DT series, and shouldn't be too bulky on a bike.

FWIW NEVER use dielectric grease on the contacts. As it ages it create issues of its own, primarily fretting on the contacts, as well as becoming a sticky mess. NyoGel 760G lubricates the contacts and prevents fretting. And it doesn't dry out and create a sticky mess.

How do contacts fret? Doesn't fretting require small repetitive mechanical motions? Electrical contacts on my bike stay connected for months or years at a time.

that's a good point about the DTM connectors... my experience was primarily with the DT's.

Regarding dielectric grease... I've never used it in either the earth moving industry or aviation. It's only been bike wiring where I've used it, and even then I mostly forget that I even have it. :) Haven't seen any problems yet, but maybe that's just dumb luck?

Steve in Peoria

I have it on every contact on the bikes, staying there for ages. Without the grease the contacts that are not golden usually go south pretty quick, at least on my bikes.

I have used dielectric grease on car connectors, seems like a good idea. It's commonly used on cars and I always buy it at auto parts stores. It seems pretty inert, never seen a problem due to using it.

Sorry, I got unexpectedly called out of town on a work related issue. I just love it when a customer calls and tells us we have a problem, only to find a forklift speared the equipment and damaged it. Somehow that's our problem. And if you want to see the effects of the government shutdown try going thru TSA security. Talk about some testy people, and then you get the TSA agents...NOT a fun time for air travel.
The pin & socket designs on most electrical contacts DO move relative to each other when they are mated due to vibration, stress on the wires, temperature variation, etc. Depending on the contact's surface finish and lubrication fretting will eventually happen. Contacts like Anderson Power Poles that use spring force to hold two overlapping contacts together are actually much worse for fretting, but their contact design anticipates this and the finish of the contacts minimizes the effect. Lubrication still helps.
If by "golden" you mean an actual gold finish, yes, I would not expect to see any issues with fretting. Gold is one of the only contact materials that typically won't fret in electrical contacts due to its self lubricating properties.
On a bike I wouldn't expect too many issues with dielectric grease on electrical contacts, but on vehicles I have reservations. Dielectric grease is typically silicone oil in a soap base to thicken it. The silicone oil will soften the silicone seals used on most electrical connectors, reducing the effectiveness of the seals. I've seen dielectric grease soften the nylon connector body, allowing the electrical contacts to get pushed out of the connector body and cause issues. When used on contacts the silicone will migrate out from the oil and/or evaporate, leaving behind the soap base. The soap base becomes sticky, and in many of the cheap dielectric greases can actually become abrasive to the finish of the electrical contacts, causing them to fail in use. I'd actually use petroleum jelly on contacts before I'd use dielectric grease.

The grease is really just making the contact gas-tight. It fills the gaps between the mating surfaces and prevents any gases like water vapor from getting in. ANYTHING that is soft enough but will allow the contacts to make surface to surface contact will work and, if the material will not migrate or wash out, will prevent deterioration of the contacts due to moisture. If that same material can also lubricate the contacts it will help prevent fretting damage. In my experience (30+ years engineering connection systems) NyoGel 760G is the best product out for electrical connections. Dielectric grease is pretty much near the bottom of the list (just above butter,) but is the most commonly specified due to its availability. It falls into the category of "it's better than nothing" but often nothing is better.

I've used these quick connectors without any problems :

https://www.amazon.com/LanHong-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B01F54PFLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547958569&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=electrical+quick+connectors&dpPl=1&dpID=51meSzMW88L&ref=plS rch&dpPl=1&dpID=51meSzMW88L&ref=plSrch

The wires are about 20 gauge. There are other q/r styles that you may prefer, but check the wire gauge before ordering.