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Bitten by the flat thing again...

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Old 08-02-11 | 04:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Wogster
It looks like a lot of steps, until you realise that a 2¢ patch can be used to fix a $10 tube...
I buy tubes on sale for $3 or $4. I usually toss them rather than run the risk of a patch going bad. I know how to patch and patches usually hold up but occassionally they don't and it's not worth the effort.
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Old 08-02-11 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 10 Wheels

Hey, good posture! I tend to hunch over too much when working on the ground:



-----------------

I used to keep tubes until they had about five patches, but I recently got a lot of Nashbar tubes for only $2.50 each, so I usually only patch once or not at all.
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Old 08-02-11 | 05:09 PM
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I had my first flat in long time, I'm pretty lucky with not getting to many flats. Of course I was on my new 29'er, for which I have no spare tubes. I also had the co2 that is presta specific,my tubes are schrader. And my hubs aren't QR, and I didn't have a wrench. I had to call the tow truck. I was two un-walk-able miles from home. Good to ride anyway.
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Old 08-02-11 | 06:11 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Wogster

1) Using a bucket of water, find the hole and mark the hole
2) dry off the tube
3) use the scrapper tool or sand paper to make the patch area smooth
4) apply the glue
5) wait for the glue to dry, give it 10 minutes, do not try to hurry this, it has to dry on it's own. I usually work on another one, while waiting.
6) remove the foil patch cover and apply patch
7) add a weight
8) let sit overnight
9) pump up
10) repeat water test
11) remove air and fold up.

It looks like a lot of steps, until you realise that a 2¢ patch can be used to fix a $10 tube...
A little more involved than I do, but I'm sure it works. By the way, the scuffing with the scraper or sandpaper is to make the patch area rough, not smooth. That gives the adhesive more surface area to bond the patch to the tube.
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Old 08-02-11 | 06:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
A little more involved than I do, but I'm sure it works.
Hey, BD, I want to go riding with a cycling concierge so I can just make him/her sit on the fire ant hill and change my flat.
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Old 08-02-11 | 07:20 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
A little more involved than I do, but I'm sure it works. By the way, the scuffing with the scraper or sandpaper is to make the patch area rough, not smooth. That gives the adhesive more surface area to bond the patch to the tube.
Actually it does both, it smooths off rough areas like the seam of the tube, and gives the tube some "tooth" so the patch will hold better.
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Old 08-02-11 | 07:50 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
I have had some failures with the stick on patches. .
Park, or some other brand/s?
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Old 08-02-11 | 07:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
A little more involved than I do, but I'm sure it works. By the way, the scuffing with the scraper or sandpaper is to make the patch area rough, not smooth. That gives the adhesive more surface area to bond the patch to the tube.
I have found the scuffing step very hard to accomplish with the narrow tube flexing around etc. Even getting the little rib sanded off the tube seems nigh on to impossible to me. The glue on patches seem to work okay without that step so I have mostly given up on it. If there is a trick to successful scuffing anyone please tell me the secret.
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Old 08-02-11 | 08:03 PM
  #34  
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I heard continental has come out, or is coming out with a new tube compound which can handle both summer air and winter air.

From the review I read, they weigh slightly more than season-sensitive tubes, and cost about 30% more. But having been bitten so many times in the past, I don't care if they cost twice as much as regular tubes. I plan to buy a half dozen of them.
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Old 08-02-11 | 08:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by billydonn
I have found the scuffing step very hard to accomplish with the narrow tube flexing around etc. Even getting the little rib sanded off the tube seems nigh on to impossible to me. The glue on patches seem to work okay without that step so I have mostly given up on it. If there is a trick to successful scuffing anyone please tell me the secret.
I bet you would need a good scuffer for starters.
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Old 08-02-11 | 08:24 PM
  #36  
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Over 4000 miles since the last flat, sometime last fall. The flat tire demons have passed me by and forgotten I exist. I will never, ever have another flat. My tires are strong, they are invincible, they are woman. I've decided to save weight on long rides way out into the swamp where there is no cell phone service by leaving my tube, levers, and pump at home.
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Old 08-02-11 | 09:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by JanMM
Park, or some other brand/s?
I think it was Park. Too long ago to remember. My LBS stopped carrying them because they had so many complaints.
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Old 08-02-11 | 09:56 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by billydonn
I have found the scuffing step very hard to accomplish with the narrow tube flexing around etc. Even getting the little rib sanded off the tube seems nigh on to impossible to me. The glue on patches seem to work okay without that step so I have mostly given up on it. If there is a trick to successful scuffing anyone please tell me the secret.
I don't worry about sanding off the rib. You just need to rough it up a little. Smooth surfaces don't bond as well as irregular ones. If the tube won't hold enough air to keep the surface firm, I lay it across something firm, sometimes my knee.
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Old 08-02-11 | 11:37 PM
  #39  
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I still have the same air in the tires that came with the bike when I bought it!

Be sure to check the inside of the tire to remove any shards of glass or you will have a second flat right away - learned this the hard way...
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Old 08-03-11 | 10:58 AM
  #40  
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I have to ask this... Are modern bikes, or at least some types of same, particularly prone to flats? I ask because although I am a new returnee to riding, my youth was spend on a bicycle - indeed one not too different from the `69 Raleigh I ride now. And I NEVER, no NEVER got a flat. Never. Nor to my knowledge did my parents who took my even then old Rudge (and my girlfriend's) down to FL when they retired and rode them and rode them and rode them.

What gives?

And just as I never got a flat I was never particularly fussy about air pressure either. Now I am, measuring and pumping in a few lbs each weekend. (I keep mine at 65lbs rear, 60 lbs front.)

-don
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Old 08-03-11 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnTP
I still have the same air in the tires that came with the bike when I bought it!

Be sure to check the inside of the tire to remove any shards of glass or you will have a second flat right away - learned this the hard way...
I too found this out the hard way. 2 tubes + 2 patches to find 3 shards of embedded glass + 1 hole in my rim tape... my gosh I must have been in the bermuda triangle of cycling that day.
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Old 08-03-11 | 01:10 PM
  #42  
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Mods, please close this thread. I've had two flats since it became active and can only blame BF and Internet Brands.
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Old 08-03-11 | 01:40 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by JohnTP
I still have the same air in the tires that came with the bike when I bought it!
Factory Air? That used to be a real luxury on cars!!
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Old 08-03-11 | 02:47 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by duceditor
I have to ask this... Are modern bikes, or at least some types of same, particularly prone to flats? I ask because although I am a new returnee to riding, my youth was spend on a bicycle - indeed one not too different from the `69 Raleigh I ride now. And I NEVER, no NEVER got a flat. Never. Nor to my knowledge did my parents who took my even then old Rudge (and my girlfriend's) down to FL when they retired and rode them and rode them and rode them.

What gives?

I believe for the most part we are talking about road tyres. These thin tyres just don't have the think rubber carcass ye olde balloon tyres had. And apparently rubber isn't that great holding 100 psi air pressure. You can buy road tyres with a Kevlar belt that should help prevent flats. Sometimes it just seems to be luck. Got almost 3 years on Continental GT4000's without flats. Now trying to wear out the last of my Bontrager Select tyres and have a couple flats with each. Some ride in areas with thorns (goat heads) and those who ride on road also can flat from the fine wires that come out of steel belted radial auto tyres. Something we didn't have a few decades ago, except for those few sport cars with Michelin X tyres.

And just as I never got a flat I was never particularly fussy about air pressure either. Now I am, measuring and pumping in a few lbs each weekend. (I keep mine at 65lbs rear, 60 lbs front.)

-don
If pressure gets to low, one can get a flat from the tube pinching between rim and tyre bead. I don't know what too low is but suspect it varies depending on where you start. 100 psi tyre may pinch flat at 70 psi for example. Your 65 psi may pinch flat at 35 psi. I really don't know how the tube gets pinched with low pressure, but I had a couple.
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Old 08-03-11 | 05:40 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by teachme
3 miles into my ride this morning and I pinched my rear tire on a turn. Still trying to learn to be proficient at changing/repairing a flat in the field. I'm equipped with a patch kit and CO2 cartridges. I bought one of those Topeaka CO2 Cobra triggers. It worked fine and I was able to ride home the 3 miles for a total of 6 miles.

My questions are: Does the tube need to be drained of CO2 and filled with air? And should the repaired tube be discarded in favor of a new one?
What kind of tires are you rolling on? When I went from 23's to bigger 28's, I noticed fewer flats.

As for your questions -
I let out the CO2 and refill the tire from my compressor - after I replace the tube. Im one of those who doesn't like patched tubes.
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