Um - Brompton is only a bike . No reason to get so worked up about it.

On another topic, I have the components to upgrade my Brompton. Watch this subforum!

I would recommend not coming into a thread with your ALL CAPS and telling people ALL YOUR BIG KNOWLEDGE and if only they would listen they would KNOW ALL THE THINGS.

So you think it is better to behave like you do, coming into a thread with no knowledge at all, not only not bothering about gaining some but even refusing to learn or read what is already written there and still claiming to "know all the things", making wrong frivolous judgements and false claims one after the other and constantly to insult other people about your lack of knowlege?

I am sorry if the modern world is too complex for you. You seem not to be able to draw correct conclusions from a shortened statement and are not willing to read a longer one as well as there are "too many numbers in it". Not able to learn, not able to change your mind if you are in error, just insisting on whatever madness your initial judgement has been like a broken record. A pattern not only in this thread but in many others as well. I can't imagine you have many friends if you behave in real life in the same way you do here...

At least nice of you that you deleted your statement of me being a "thug" from your last post. Maybe there's hope.

Yes, I was trying to be nice to the others on this thread by deleting "thug". You're still a thug, and it's still stupid to tell people it'll work to crowd the old M bars with the new shifters. The old setup works, but mixing old and new won't. Even with my small hands I wouldn't be comfortable with less room in the grip area and that's what I explained. But you decided to join this thread with your ALL CAPS BIG KNOWLEDGE of how you know everything about Bromptons and only you should be listened to.

Let’s watch the insults please and respect others opinions. Thanks

Stan

No wonder there are so few women posting here…

The last couple of pages remind me of teaching middle school and I am happy to be retired from doing that. Roger

I am sorry for that but can understand your feelings. In forum posts I always try to provide reliable information for one simple reason: I've learned a lot in the past from posts in forums that were 10 or 15 years old. Forums often can be a gold-mine of information that is long gone in other places and they have been for me. Unfortunately those posts were often not very reliable and contradictory, therefore often being confusing and not as helpful as desirable. This is why I spend considerable time and effort for research before I post and try to be exact regarding any information given: I want it to be unambiguous and reliable.

This time I had a hard time doing so and it clearly went over the top dealing with Joe Remi's attitude. Sorry for that.

Anyone who - for whatever reason - wants the new 2017 shifters on pre 2017 M bars and is in fear of a lack of gripspace may possibly use the M-bars by Joseph Kusoac. I have not seen or used them but they claim to be wider than the orginal while delivering the same height according to the description at SJS:

"Made from 6061 aluminium.
25.4mm clamp.
Ergonomic handlebar with curve in design.
600mm Wide - with cutting markings.
Standard 130mm handlebar grips compatible - Brompton bars use 100mm.
Weight 276g."

Possbily the easiest way if you are in doubt. No guarantee.

Once again you quoted something as a fact in one breath and then say it may not be true. I never quote anything unless I have used it myself and know it works. Those handle bars may or may not work but but your saying they might work has no relevance to this in the discussion and is certainly not reliable. Roger

The last bit was meant as additional hint for those who do believe the original bar will not be sufficient for them and to calm things down a little bit in this thread. I clearly stated that I did not test this bar and it is just a hint. I thought it could still be helpful for someone. But it seems I am really wasting my time here. Find out for yourself what works and what not and come back when you've done so. I'm looking forward to your report. Until now I did not see any useful information from your side in this thread. Same goes for Mr. Remi. I'm over and out.

MOD NOTE To All: The topic of this thread is "Alternative derailleur shifters", NOT arguing with or insulting other members.

Some feedback, for science's sake.

Unsurprisingly — since it's a fork remote lockout lever and not a derailleur shifter, after all —, the Suntour shifter failed after barely 2,000km.

I'm now trying DTSwiss's "Remote Lever Single Stage", ref # FWXXXXXSXXX046197S.

Shifting is harder than with the Suntour, and I don't expect it to last either since it's also a fork lockout lever, but it feels stronger than the Suntour. The good news is that the Suntour kit included a barrel nut that I got to re-use.

At worst, I'll go back to the original Brompton shifter: It's less compact, just as hard on the thumb as the DT Swiss shifter after I filed down its trigger to make room… but it's obviously more reliable being actually designed to manage a derailleur.

Stay tuned.

Thanks for the alert. My concern with aftermarket parts, especially for Brompton, whether adapted or not, is the lack of certainty in their long-term operation. In my mind I go back to an aftermarket bolt and clamp kit for Brompton hinges, also off Ebay, where the profiled alu bolts were plain suicidal.

I was aware that a remote lockout lever wouldn't last as long as the original, but considering the price, I was willing to take the chance.

I'm not sure, but I suspect the original bolts are in steel, which would explain why they last longer. Before shelling out big bucks to buy titanium clamps + bolts from Asia (TWP, NovDesign, Kamoya, etc.), you might want to give SpedDial a try.

I am away from my base, so cannot check directly, but the original bolts were just stock zincked metric - maybe the thread was the next most common or something. We have SpedDial on one bike and are very happy with it - in my opinion the optimal solution. The second bike has Kamoya which is fine, but not as good as SpedDial.

the latest running product change was from an over the bar shifter,
to an under the bar set of shifters,
as stock , in 2018.

Reportedly they only move 1 gear change at a time, 1>2>3.

where the previously from the Steel trigger S-A, used on the Mk2, AW3 hub
and the easier working plastic one with the BSR,

can go from 1st to 3rd, 3rd to first...

[so functions better with my gear box MD cranks,
as I do a double gear, + crank- range shift between 3rd & 4th]




....

Have tried this version, most positive feed back from riders. DT Swiss one more fragile.

No experience with the newer versions, but they are supposed to be easier to install.

It does look neater on handlebar. The shifting can be quite precise too.l

Yes, like I wrote, it's easier on the thumb than the DT Swiss, but the Suntour shifter gave up the ghost after barely 2,000km… which makes sense since they're both remote lockout shifters, not derailleur shifters.

Looks like the original shifter from Brompton is the only realistic solution.

In post #37 OP discusses having tried this very shifter, marketed on Ebay by bikegang, and this very shifter broke in practical use.

Have you Tried Sturmey Archer Sun Race Microshift thumb, or grip shifters?

Grips are narrow on M-bars to start with. Pushing a Gripshift into there leaves intolerably narrow space for hand.

but S bars are also an option many choose.. M bar* you can put thumb shifters
on the vertical part of the bend.

test fitting my Bolt on FD mount kit , thats where it's shift lever fit...
(ended not using it, It's for sale)

*Latest M bar seems a different bend, appears more room, on top..



...

The thumb shifters could workout well on a P bar where they could be operated by the thumb and having bar tape on the P bar makes more sense as well.

The P handlebar is getting a bit busy*, hence my quest for a slimmer derailleur shifter.



* sawed-off bar-ends, double chainring shifter

Mine , M3L , are relatively un cluttered. Schlumpf 2 speed cranks
use the center of the crank arms to shift with your shoe heel.

hub dynamo headlight under the front bag .

hire a fabricator to make you an additional crossbar tube
across the center of your P bar for more space?
.. Have not fitted a bar end shifter in the bar tube open end yet?






..