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Vert to horizontal dropouts

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Vert to horizontal dropouts

Old 01-30-19, 11:48 AM
  #26  
Doug Fattic 
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Do you know how to braze with brass? If you can then further explanation might be useful.
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Old 01-30-19, 12:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by davei1980 View Post
No on the fixie - I have no interest in riding fixed gear.

I have two bikes at the present - a Specialized Langster with track forks and drop bars set up as a SS/Freewheel which I use for everyday commuting and an old Nishiki plain-guage/hi tensile bike which was a 10 speed but is now a SS/Freewheel with CX tires, dual pivot brakes and MTB handlebars. This bike is not fast or terribly efficient but a ton of fun to ride with my kids.

I just got rid of a SS folding bike (my college kid needed more reliable transportation than her car so she got it for free, awesome campus bike, actually) and I just sold my CX frame because I determined it would be too tall (who knew the BB shell on a CX frame rides higher than a track frame??) lol

The bike I wish to build is a SS/CX bike which I can easily put back to geared in case I hate racing it, I can just use it for a touring/weekend bike for longer rides. I plan on running a freehub body with a single cog which would be easy to slip on an 8+ speed cassette in the event I wanted to switch back (no re-dishing, etc)
What size are you looking for? I have a Sycip CX bike with eccentric BB but all the bits needed to run geared. I ride a 56cm road frame personally and it fits well. PM me for more info.
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Old 01-30-19, 02:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cynikal View Post
What size are you looking for? I have a Sycip CX bike with eccentric BB but all the bits needed to run geared. I ride a 56cm road frame personally and it fits well. PM me for more info.
That sounds like exactly the frame I am after except I just got rid of a 55.5cm frame because it was too large.
I ride a 54cm road bike everyday and I am sure I could fit a 56cm road bike but it seems like the BB shell clearance (is that what it's called?) is a lot higher on CX frames so I am in the market for a 51-52cm CX frame (if that makes sense)

I am 5'8" with long legs - 32" inseam (actual, not jeans size)
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Old 01-30-19, 02:48 PM
  #29  
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pedal or portage ?

CycloCross Racing is not always on flat ground, intentionally.. off camber hill ? either dig a pedal into the hillside, or get off, shoulder the bike and run..

The New Niche of Gravel bikes as I understand is a lower BB

I find its not much of an issue,, (High BB Bike Friday Pocket Llama , shift my weight onto 1 pedal get off the saddle , and put the other foot down..)


just use data and for your , desired top tube stand over., less drop , deduct that from seat tube length..
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Old 01-30-19, 02:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by davei1980 View Post
That sounds like exactly the frame I am after except I just got rid of a 55.5cm frame because it was too large.
I ride a 54cm road bike everyday and I am sure I could fit a 56cm road bike but it seems like the BB shell clearance (is that what it's called?) is a lot higher on CX frames so I am in the market for a 51-52cm CX frame (if that makes sense)

I am 5'8" with long legs - 32" inseam (actual, not jeans size)
Let me measure it and send you a PM. I think if I remember correctly, it was a little small for me. Worked for a CX race but not a long ride. I'll report back.
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Old 01-30-19, 03:33 PM
  #31  
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Not an answer to the OPs question but related - I had my custom road fix gear made with horizontal dropouts designed to allow any cog from 12 to 24 to be used without messing with the chain. (I do have to use a 1/2 link with one of my chainrings.) The dropout is cut from 1/4" plate. Think a conventional horizontal dropout lengthened considerably more than the old long Campagnolo dropouts of the early '70s. I think the hub can move around 1 3/4" but I would have to go out and look. It has less incline than a standard dropout so the height of the bike doesn't change much. The final slot, installed, is at an angle of 11 degrees. This allows the brake pads to stay on a Velocity Aero rim. Finally the opening to the dropout is from below at the very front so you slide the wheel forward, then down to remove. Install is just like any vertical drop. You then pull back to set chain slack.

Other touches: it is threaded for a typical fender bolt slightly above the slot. I run a nutted pan head bolt in from the inside to act as a chain peg. Really handy when flipping a fix-fix wheel. And I have the common adjusting screws so I and replace the wheel exactly and fast when I am not chaining cogs. Nice but I have rarely used the feature. (Now I really love the same on my workhorse fix gear.)

These dropouts make riding hills and frequently flipping the wheel easy, fun and fast! Between that and a chain whip I made that straps to the top tube, I can ride monumentally hilly fix gear rides as a 60+ yo and have a blast. When I am in practice, 2 minutes to flip a wheel, 5 to change cogs. (My epic Crater Lake ride - 7 flips, 2 cog changes. 10,000 feet, 98 miles. Couldn't have happened in one gear, Not this body at 59 years old.)

Ben
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Old 01-30-19, 09:03 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Cynikal View Post
Let me measure it and send you a PM. I think if I remember correctly, it was a little small for me. Worked for a CX race but not a long ride. I'll report back.
You are the man thank you
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Old 01-30-19, 09:05 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Cynikal View Post
Let me measure it and send you a PM. I think if I remember correctly, it was a little small for me. Worked for a CX race but not a long ride. I'll report back.
Originally Posted by 79pmooney View Post
Not an answer to the OPs question but related - I had my custom road fix gear made with horizontal dropouts designed to allow any cog from 12 to 24 to be used without messing with the chain. (I do have to use a 1/2 link with one of my chainrings.) The dropout is cut from 1/4" plate. Think a conventional horizontal dropout lengthened considerably more than the old long Campagnolo dropouts of the early '70s. I think the hub can move around 1 3/4" but I would have to go out and look. It has less incline than a standard dropout so the height of the bike doesn't change much. The final slot, installed, is at an angle of 11 degrees. This allows the brake pads to stay on a Velocity Aero rim. Finally the opening to the dropout is from below at the very front so you slide the wheel forward, then down to remove. Install is just like any vertical drop. You then pull back to set chain slack.

Other touches: it is threaded for a typical fender bolt slightly above the slot. I run a nutted pan head bolt in from the inside to act as a chain peg. Really handy when flipping a fix-fix wheel. And I have the common adjusting screws so I and replace the wheel exactly and fast when I am not chaining cogs. Nice but I have rarely used the feature. (Now I really love the same on my workhorse fix gear.)

These dropouts make riding hills and frequently flipping the wheel easy, fun and fast! Between that and a chain whip I made that straps to the top tube, I can ride monumentally hilly fix gear rides as a 60+ yo and have a blast. When I am in practice, 2 minutes to flip a wheel, 5 to change cogs. (My epic Crater Lake ride - 7 flips, 2 cog changes. 10,000 feet, 98 miles. Couldn't have happened in one gear, Not this body at 59 years old.)

Ben
that is nuts ben! Love the ingenuity
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Old 02-01-19, 06:37 PM
  #34  
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What about just installing the threaded adjusters like some of the high end bikes from the 80's and 90's used
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