Considering going electronic
#1
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Considering going electronic
I have an Allez Sprint Disc with a 105 groupset and I’m considering upgrading to ultegra di2. I’ve had di2 on a Venge that I used to own and I loved the smoothness of the shifting, the ability to shift under load, and to shift from one side of the cassette to the other effortlessly.
105 is a perfectly fine group for my level of cycling but di2 and its garmin functionality is something else that I miss. Anyone care to offer insight on if it’s worth upgrading the Allez sprint to an electronic groupset?
105 is a perfectly fine group for my level of cycling but di2 and its garmin functionality is something else that I miss. Anyone care to offer insight on if it’s worth upgrading the Allez sprint to an electronic groupset?
#2
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Another 'should I upgrade do Di2' thread? How do you guys manage to pick out socks in the morning w/o outside assistance? Jesus, you've already owned Di2 and you still have to ask for help?

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There are several very active sock forums on the internet. Most have a stickie devoted to morning sock selection.
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#4
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Nothing wrong with a fellow cyclist looking for 2nd and 3rd opinions. Sometimes the answer is a given, but people would still like some validity for their decision.
Perhaps the OP wants a devil's advocate, to either reinforce their decision or talk them out of it.
One person's trash post is another person's bike saving thread.
Don't judge
#5
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I didn’t mean offense, the question if you read the post is if the Allez Sprint frame is worth the di2 upgrade. Sorry for the trouble of having you read another post on the internet about electronic shifting.
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Seems like you’re already sold on di2, why worry about whether or not the frameset is worthy?
Heck, there’s no rules against putting a 2016 Corvette LS engine into a 1975 Mercury Bobcat- you can put di2 onto a Centurion Ironman or a Surly Cross Check if that’s what boats your goat.
You can even mix di2 with non-carbon wheels, even non-aero wheels!
shucks, now I want to see a GMC Denali frameset with di2 and sun cr-18 wheels.
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personally, I think that if you must have gears and you have enough disposable income, Rohloff on a Riv Roadeo is the only answer. Painted red, of course.
Heck, there’s no rules against putting a 2016 Corvette LS engine into a 1975 Mercury Bobcat- you can put di2 onto a Centurion Ironman or a Surly Cross Check if that’s what boats your goat.
You can even mix di2 with non-carbon wheels, even non-aero wheels!
shucks, now I want to see a GMC Denali frameset with di2 and sun cr-18 wheels.
———
personally, I think that if you must have gears and you have enough disposable income, Rohloff on a Riv Roadeo is the only answer. Painted red, of course.
Last edited by hsuBM; 10-28-20 at 04:59 AM.
#7
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I think both electronic group sets are interesting. However, they are expensive and the longevity of any electronic device that is used outside is going to be limited. Replacement and repair of key parts of these group sets is expensive. I believe a blown motor in the RD is about $1,000.
So when I compare them to something I know will last more than a decade before inexpensive maintenance like Campy Chorus and Record, even Super Record the value proposition is weak for electronic drivetrains. Campy Record slots in between them cost-wise, while Super Record is a few hundred more than SRAM.
Not convinced it is a good way to go.
So when I compare them to something I know will last more than a decade before inexpensive maintenance like Campy Chorus and Record, even Super Record the value proposition is weak for electronic drivetrains. Campy Record slots in between them cost-wise, while Super Record is a few hundred more than SRAM.
Not convinced it is a good way to go.
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I think both electronic group sets are interesting. However, they are expensive and the longevity of any electronic device that is used outside is going to be limited. Replacement and repair of key parts of these group sets is expensive. I believe a blown motor in the RD is about $1,000.
So when I compare them to something I know will last more than a decade before inexpensive maintenance like Campy Chorus and Record, even Super Record the value proposition is weak for electronic drivetrains. Campy Record slots in between them cost-wise, while Super Record is a few hundred more than SRAM.
Not convinced it is a good way to go.
So when I compare them to something I know will last more than a decade before inexpensive maintenance like Campy Chorus and Record, even Super Record the value proposition is weak for electronic drivetrains. Campy Record slots in between them cost-wise, while Super Record is a few hundred more than SRAM.
Not convinced it is a good way to go.
#10
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No just smart, very smart. I have a keen awareness for value, especially long term.
I put electronic shifting basically in the same bucket as disk brakes and tubeless road tires. Nice, interesting but with questionable performance benefits, more headaches and higher cost, especially over the long-term.
As for comparing Record and Super Record, anyone that would pick those two electronic group sets over those is definitely high.
I put electronic shifting basically in the same bucket as disk brakes and tubeless road tires. Nice, interesting but with questionable performance benefits, more headaches and higher cost, especially over the long-term.
As for comparing Record and Super Record, anyone that would pick those two electronic group sets over those is definitely high.
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I think both electronic group sets are interesting. However, they are expensive and the longevity of any electronic device that is used outside is going to be limited. Replacement and repair of key parts of these group sets is expensive. I believe a blown motor in the RD is about $1,000.
So when I compare them to something I know will last more than a decade before inexpensive maintenance like Campy Chorus and Record, even Super Record the value proposition is weak for electronic drivetrains. Campy Record slots in between them cost-wise, while Super Record is a few hundred more than SRAM.
Not convinced it is a good way to go.
So when I compare them to something I know will last more than a decade before inexpensive maintenance like Campy Chorus and Record, even Super Record the value proposition is weak for electronic drivetrains. Campy Record slots in between them cost-wise, while Super Record is a few hundred more than SRAM.
Not convinced it is a good way to go.
No just smart, very smart. I have a keen awareness for value, especially long term.
I put electronic shifting basically the same bucket as disk brakes and tubeless road tires. Nice, interesting but with questionable performance benefits, more headaches and higher cost.
I put electronic shifting basically the same bucket as disk brakes and tubeless road tires. Nice, interesting but with questionable performance benefits, more headaches and higher cost.
You're just making stuff up, with no basis in reality.
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Loving this new direction of the thread.
ultegra di2 rd: ~$250 in 2020C.E.
DA di2 rd: ~$600 in 2020C.E.
regardless of the cost of a motor, it certainly would be a pain to replace. You’d have to be a serious tinkering fetishist to want to undertake that, even if the motor costs only $5, rather than to just buy a new derailer (or since were talking about 8-16 years into the future when compatability becomes a question, just get a new groupset).
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I still vote Rohloff.
———
ultegra di2 rd: ~$250 in 2020C.E.
DA di2 rd: ~$600 in 2020C.E.
regardless of the cost of a motor, it certainly would be a pain to replace. You’d have to be a serious tinkering fetishist to want to undertake that, even if the motor costs only $5, rather than to just buy a new derailer (or since were talking about 8-16 years into the future when compatability becomes a question, just get a new groupset).
———
I still vote Rohloff.
———
#13
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No just smart, very smart. I have a keen awareness for value, especially long term.
I put electronic shifting basically in the same bucket as disk brakes and tubeless road tires. Nice, interesting but with questionable performance benefits, more headaches and higher cost, especially over the long-term.
I put electronic shifting basically in the same bucket as disk brakes and tubeless road tires. Nice, interesting but with questionable performance benefits, more headaches and higher cost, especially over the long-term.
We all value things differently.
My wife had a hard time letting me spend $700 on a complete bike for her. Maybe she's smarter than you?
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What??
I think both electronic group sets are interesting. However, they are expensive and the longevity of any electronic device that is used outside is going to be limited. Replacement and repair of key parts of these group sets is expensive. I believe a blown motor in the RD is about $1,000.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Dura-...3890098&sr=8-2
Are you including the labor to replace just the blown motor in your $1000?

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The Allez Sprint Disc is a really cool and solid frame. An Ultegra Di2 version of this bike sounds awesome to me, but I am wondering if the frame is set up to deal with the wiring and junction boxes, etc? SRAM's wireless system is definitely the way I'd go.
A SRAM Red AXS eTAP rear derailleur is like $700, so I'd probably go with Force. Because... motors 'n stuff.
A SRAM Red AXS eTAP rear derailleur is like $700, so I'd probably go with Force. Because... motors 'n stuff.
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The Allez Sprint Disc is a really cool and solid frame. An Ultegra Di2 version of this bike sounds awesome to me, but I am wondering if the frame is set up to deal with the wiring and junction boxes, etc? SRAM's wireless system is definitely the way I'd go.
A SRAM Red AXS eTAP rear derailleur is like $700, so I'd probably go with Force. Because... motors 'n stuff.
A SRAM Red AXS eTAP rear derailleur is like $700, so I'd probably go with Force. Because... motors 'n stuff.
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Still, even a top-of-the-line electronic RD from SRAM is well under $1,000. Still waiting for Mulberry20 to explain how it's sooo expensive to repair a RD.
#19
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Mulberry20 wrote:
However, they are expensive and the longevity of any electronic device that is used outside is going to be limited..
False. The electronic units likely last longer in crappy conditions than a mechanical as the system is pretty much not affected by rain, mud, etc... Is why they are actually an advantage on mt. bikes.
I believe a blown motor in the RD is about $1,000.
False again. An Ultegra Di2 rear derailer is $285
However, they are expensive and the longevity of any electronic device that is used outside is going to be limited..
False. The electronic units likely last longer in crappy conditions than a mechanical as the system is pretty much not affected by rain, mud, etc... Is why they are actually an advantage on mt. bikes.
I believe a blown motor in the RD is about $1,000.
False again. An Ultegra Di2 rear derailer is $285
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Not to belabor the point, but is it even possible to replace just the motor in a Di2 rear derailleur?
Does Shimano sell parts like this? I assume the whole thing is sold as a complete assembly, and not designed to allow dismantling and replacing of individual internal/electronic parts.
Does Shimano sell parts like this? I assume the whole thing is sold as a complete assembly, and not designed to allow dismantling and replacing of individual internal/electronic parts.
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Not to belabor the point, but is it even possible to replace just the motor in a Di2 rear derailleur?
Does Shimano sell parts like this? I assume the whole thing is sold as a complete assembly, and not designed to allow dismantling and replacing of individual internal/electronic parts.
Does Shimano sell parts like this? I assume the whole thing is sold as a complete assembly, and not designed to allow dismantling and replacing of individual internal/electronic parts.
I swear, I know some people really don't like electronic systems. But if you're gonna lie about them, at least make it slightly plausible.
The funny thing is that Mulberry20 started a thread, just yesterday, asking people for opinions on eTap vs Di2. Seems like trolling to come in, just a day later, and start slamming electronic shifting.
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I second this info. I had to replace my Ultegra Di2 RD last year due to an instant catastrophic failure while JRA. $300 installed at the LBS.
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FYI.. Sram Red eTap RD $399
https://bikecloset.com/product/sram-...m-wifli-black/
Last edited by GlennR; 10-28-20 at 09:42 AM.
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It is worth it if you like the bike, like electronic shifters, and more importantly, have the disposable income to afford it. Only you can decide, but if you like it enough, the value others place on your bike is irrelevant. The shifters may make you enjoy the bike even more. Don't ask what I would do though, I still run friction.

#25
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I have an Allez Sprint Disc with a 105 groupset and I’m considering upgrading to ultegra di2. I’ve had di2 on a Venge that I used to own and I loved the smoothness of the shifting, the ability to shift under load, and to shift from one side of the cassette to the other effortlessly.
105 is a perfectly fine group for my level of cycling but di2 and its garmin functionality is something else that I miss. Anyone care to offer insight on if it’s worth upgrading the Allez sprint to an electronic groupset?
105 is a perfectly fine group for my level of cycling but di2 and its garmin functionality is something else that I miss. Anyone care to offer insight on if it’s worth upgrading the Allez sprint to an electronic groupset?