Need help!
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Need help!
I'm about to purchase my first "real" bike but I need some help. Are the components on the Giant Seek 2 worth the extra $200 over the Seek 3?
Shifters: Shimano M310 vs SRAM Via Centro
Front Derailleur: Shimano M191 vs SRAM Via Centro
Rear Derailleur: Shimano M280 vs SRAM Via Centro
Brakes: Tektro MD-M300 Mechanical Disc vs Shimano M355 Hydraulic Disc
Cassette: Shimano HG-41, 11-32, 8-Speed vs SRAM PG1030, 11-36, 10-Speed
Crankset: SR Suntour CW13- NEX, 28/38/48 vs SRAM Via Centro, 32/48
Bottom Bracket: Cartridge vs SRAM Power-Spline
I'm not familiar with SRAM and would appreciate any input. I just want to make sure I'm making an informed decision.
P.S. I'll be using this bike for fitness purposes on a established scenic bike path with some light off road stuff.
Shifters: Shimano M310 vs SRAM Via Centro
Front Derailleur: Shimano M191 vs SRAM Via Centro
Rear Derailleur: Shimano M280 vs SRAM Via Centro
Brakes: Tektro MD-M300 Mechanical Disc vs Shimano M355 Hydraulic Disc
Cassette: Shimano HG-41, 11-32, 8-Speed vs SRAM PG1030, 11-36, 10-Speed
Crankset: SR Suntour CW13- NEX, 28/38/48 vs SRAM Via Centro, 32/48
Bottom Bracket: Cartridge vs SRAM Power-Spline
I'm not familiar with SRAM and would appreciate any input. I just want to make sure I'm making an informed decision.
P.S. I'll be using this bike for fitness purposes on a established scenic bike path with some light off road stuff.
#2
Worth it is so subjective... If you look at retail value, I am sure that themore expensive bike is worth it. The real question is whether the difference is worth $200 to us, your respondents...
In my opinion, Either bike would do fine for your purposes (similar to my own).
One significant factor is 8 vs 10 speed... 8 speeds is plenty (that is all I have ridden for thousands of miles)... and you will actually have a wider gear range with the lower end bike because of the triple front.
Hydraulic versus mechanical disks... Everything I have heard is that hydraulic brakes are better, but you can adjust mechanical with standard tools, and never have to bleed them. Either one of them should stop you fine as long as they are maintained properly.
Any drive train components on bike shop level bikes will perform well enough for most casual riders, although higher end will sometimes feel more precise, and possibly be a touch better at shifting, and usually be lighter and/or polished better.
Bottom bracket is largely irrelevant other than the fact that the type needs to match the cranks used... and since it is a prebuilt bike, I am pretty confident that they will be the right type.
The more expensive bike will probably be slightly lighter than the cheaper bike due to component choices. Probably not enough to be noticeable when cruising, but possible a bit detrimental on climbs, or if you need to pick your bike up to put it away, or on a rack.
If I were picking between these two, I would probably save the $200 and put it toward a nice destination ride later in the year.
In my opinion, Either bike would do fine for your purposes (similar to my own).
One significant factor is 8 vs 10 speed... 8 speeds is plenty (that is all I have ridden for thousands of miles)... and you will actually have a wider gear range with the lower end bike because of the triple front.
Hydraulic versus mechanical disks... Everything I have heard is that hydraulic brakes are better, but you can adjust mechanical with standard tools, and never have to bleed them. Either one of them should stop you fine as long as they are maintained properly.
Any drive train components on bike shop level bikes will perform well enough for most casual riders, although higher end will sometimes feel more precise, and possibly be a touch better at shifting, and usually be lighter and/or polished better.
Bottom bracket is largely irrelevant other than the fact that the type needs to match the cranks used... and since it is a prebuilt bike, I am pretty confident that they will be the right type.

The more expensive bike will probably be slightly lighter than the cheaper bike due to component choices. Probably not enough to be noticeable when cruising, but possible a bit detrimental on climbs, or if you need to pick your bike up to put it away, or on a rack.
If I were picking between these two, I would probably save the $200 and put it toward a nice destination ride later in the year.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
#3
I agree with all of this. And, as far as what you gain with the extra speeds, it's likely two very low gears, a 34t and 36t, rather than closer spacing between gears (which could definitely be useful on flat roads). So if you rarely/never climb, you'll rarely/never use those two extra gears. Plus the triple chainring might be more versatile, and it gives you gearing range very close to what you'd get with the double. Everything else is a wash other than hydraulic vs. mech disc, but that's definitely not worth $200, I'd think. Love my hydraulics but mech disc is a nice compromise between wet weather performance and simplicity of operation/maintenance.
#4
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 7,393
Likes: 945
From: Looney Tunes, IL
Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!
8 speed is more robust than 10, and replacement parts cost less. I'd save the money too.
#5
The 2 does have better parts than the 3,and almost identical gearing. 8spd chains and cassettes generally last longer and are cheaper than 10spd,but 10spd prices have been coming down. The 2's hydros will require no adjustments or cable maintenance;you'll just replace worn pads and have them bled every few years. I personally prefer SRAM trigger shifters because both levers are actuated with your thumbs;this makes it easier to shift with heavy winter gloves/mittens,and lets you ride in heavy traffic covering the brakes while still being able to shift.
As to whether it's worth another $200,can you afford it? The 2 will be 'nicer',but the 3 isn't junk.
As to whether it's worth another $200,can you afford it? The 2 will be 'nicer',but the 3 isn't junk.
__________________

C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line


C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line

#6
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I too found the SRAM configuration easier to manipulate. I don't mind spending more (budget of 1K) but being inexperienced I wasn't sure if the difference in components was worth the extra money.
I currently stick to the paved scenic path which is maintained by the city. I ride that path 3-5 times per week (25 km total per ride). I would also like to take this bike on camping trips and ride the national park trails which are fairly tame but not paved at all.
I currently stick to the paved scenic path which is maintained by the city. I ride that path 3-5 times per week (25 km total per ride). I would also like to take this bike on camping trips and ride the national park trails which are fairly tame but not paved at all.
#7
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
If you are going to go "off road", i.e., gravel or mild dirt, you want the wider tires. Pavement - 32 or wider is a definite increase in comfort, and will work well on maintained gravel or maintained dirt. You can never have too many gears, to be able to find the one that is just right.
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,320
Likes: 210
From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
Worth it is so subjective... If you look at retail value, I am sure that themore expensive bike is worth it. The real question is whether the difference is worth $200 to us, your respondents...
In my opinion, Either bike would do fine for your purposes (similar to my own).
One significant factor is 8 vs 10 speed... 8 speeds is plenty (that is all I have ridden for thousands of miles)... and you will actually have a wider gear range with the lower end bike because of the triple front.
Hydraulic versus mechanical disks... Everything I have heard is that hydraulic brakes are better, but you can adjust mechanical with standard tools, and never have to bleed them. Either one of them should stop you fine as long as they are maintained properly.
Any drive train components on bike shop level bikes will perform well enough for most casual riders, although higher end will sometimes feel more precise, and possibly be a touch better at shifting, and usually be lighter and/or polished better.
Bottom bracket is largely irrelevant other than the fact that the type needs to match the cranks used... and since it is a prebuilt bike, I am pretty confident that they will be the right type.
The more expensive bike will probably be slightly lighter than the cheaper bike due to component choices. Probably not enough to be noticeable when cruising, but possible a bit detrimental on climbs, or if you need to pick your bike up to put it away, or on a rack.
If I were picking between these two, I would probably save the $200 and put it toward a nice destination ride later in the year.
In my opinion, Either bike would do fine for your purposes (similar to my own).
One significant factor is 8 vs 10 speed... 8 speeds is plenty (that is all I have ridden for thousands of miles)... and you will actually have a wider gear range with the lower end bike because of the triple front.
Hydraulic versus mechanical disks... Everything I have heard is that hydraulic brakes are better, but you can adjust mechanical with standard tools, and never have to bleed them. Either one of them should stop you fine as long as they are maintained properly.
Any drive train components on bike shop level bikes will perform well enough for most casual riders, although higher end will sometimes feel more precise, and possibly be a touch better at shifting, and usually be lighter and/or polished better.
Bottom bracket is largely irrelevant other than the fact that the type needs to match the cranks used... and since it is a prebuilt bike, I am pretty confident that they will be the right type.

The more expensive bike will probably be slightly lighter than the cheaper bike due to component choices. Probably not enough to be noticeable when cruising, but possible a bit detrimental on climbs, or if you need to pick your bike up to put it away, or on a rack.
If I were picking between these two, I would probably save the $200 and put it toward a nice destination ride later in the year.

As for spending the extra cash, it really depends on how long you own your bikes. I tend to keep my bikes for a long time so an extra $200 up front isn't much if I really liked the more expensive bike better.
#9

My previous primary rider lasted for about 11 years before I bought another used bike to take its place, and it is still in my stable to use in certain conditions (like early spring before the rail trails firm up) and as a loaner, so that was obviously money well spent. Total bike cost (ignoring upgrades and maintenance over the years) was about $40 per year. And I could still sell it easily for $100 and recoup a quarter of that.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Question, what country are you in? I was researching the Giant Seek (USA) and just ordered a 2015 Seek 1. Giant site only shows a 1 and 3 for USA. 1 is IGH. On the Giant site you have to go back to 2011 to get a 2.
Just wondering.
Just wondering.
#11
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 7,393
Likes: 945
From: Looney Tunes, IL
Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!
The nice thing I found with a triple is that the center ring easily handles over 95% of my conditions, so I seldom had to bother shifting the front.
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
#14
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Joined: Aug 2014
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