Anything else?

The rotor's bolted to the hub. Spoke count or tension doesn't have anything to do with it.

Sorry to bust your bubble.

then what is it????

So you're telling me that my huge dual crown fork flexes? I was told that my front disc rubs in hard corners due to wheel flex.

errr, what happened to my question?

hmmmm, i just riding around with my bike and i realized that there is the screeching sound yeh?

and when i just press down the front brake the slightest bit, the sound goes away. im not a bike mechanic so could someone please explain?

thanks

Chill. Someone who knows the answer to your problem (I don't) will reply.


To Expatriate, yes, your fork flexes.

So my dual crown with the huge stanchions and lowers, and the 20mm thru-axle flexes, not the wheel?

No, your wheel flexes also.

It's just not the cause of the brake rub. Everything outboard of the hub body is irrelevant.

I've got a dual crown, and I've also got a Headshok. I don't think either flexes. Next you're going to tell me a 9mm axle doesn't compress a bit when you tighten the QR.

Gah. 2 rides on my new xtc2 with Juicy 5's and the front brake is squeaking like a mouse on acid already when I'm just riding along and not pulling on them. I swear these new fangled technologies are a pain in the arse. Give me the old canti's on my Trek anyday. Least you could run them for years and not worry about them and they'd still work good as new (which isn't that good but who cares? They always stopped me). I think I'm going to start a thread on why new bikes are bullarseproduct and everyone should be riding around on 80's vintage mountain bikes.

Well my thing's got that. But the other side rubs. Do I take it that it shouldn't be?

correct...there are multiple ways to alleviate your squeals. did you read all of the past brake posts from the past few weeks??

i use auto pad prep.

you need to start by making sure the pads are aligned....isn't this supposed to be easy with Avid**********

Saccy, did you bed them properly? You need to do 20-40 stops to get them to break in.

I'd say they'd be bedded. First ride was a pretty gentle one down a fair sized hill around here. Next ride where they started squeaking was on a hilly xc track.

Manual says loosening a couple of bolts it supposed to be for alignment. I just thought I'd make sure here that there is supposed to be no rub at all, sicne both my front and back brakes rub a bit, and any disks I've had on cars and motorbikes have always rubbed slightly. Thought it might just be a natural thing.

I was just hoping I didn't have to go dousing my disks in metho already since they're only 2 rides old. If I have to clean them every second ride then they'd be more likely getting some kero and a match tan metho.

BTW, you fellas say metho's a good cleaner. But doesn't the rubbish they put in it these days to stop me drinking it leave a residue?

maybe its okay...the pad retractors on my Hopes work just barely enough to get no rub...not sure if the pad retractors are designed to retract 'em all the way on yours.

brake cleaner works good...no residue

Metho should be ok, but I see no need to use it. Check to make sure the brakes aren't glazed. If they seem to work fine and alignment looks good, give them a few more rides. I guess your LBS doesn't offer the same free lifetime service that mine does?

To the constant squeaking problem, you have rotor rub..... get over it, most of the lazy bastards in Australia (me included) have slight rotor rub.

If you want to fix the problem, take off your disc caliper, make sure all the contact surfaces are clean and flush, re attach the caliper loosely, spin the wheel and lock up the brake. Now tighten all bolts (with brake still locked). Release the brake and voila, you have an aligned caliper. Now adjust the inboard pad as already mentioned. This should hopefully fix your problem. Another possible cause to this problem is that the actualt rotor itself is slightly warped (that is what is wrong with mine and it's not bad enough to need replacing). You can tell if this is the problem if the sound is not continual, but goes up and down in the loudness.

Whoever it was that was implying we Aussies only drink Fosters........... HELL NO. Gimme a Coopers or a nic Tasmanian beer over that crap. Fosters is the most famous Australian beer and no one here drinks it!

I have been told on this forum that brakes on mountain bikes don't see the temperatures required to glaze a pad

Also I have no idea how my mate did it, but he saved a pair of pads that he dropped in a bucket of mineral oil after he bled his brakes and went to put down the new pads he got. He put them down in the waste bucket He said he did a quick buzz with the blow torch (like 1 or 2 secs) then boiled them in water then cleaned them with metho. He finally sanded the surface a little bit (just to get a cross pattern) his brakes feel fine and he said he never needed a break in period for them

Let's be careful out there, people.

They offer 6 months on purchases, but they have to charge like a wounded bull after that or they wouldn;t make any money.


So I should get used to riding with ear plugs? But yeah, I'll try the alignment thing although I think they should be pretty good already. I can see that I'll never have a great love of disk brakes on bikes though.

Now I've jsut got to figure out how to back the compression off on my RS Recon 351 fork. Thing is as tiring over small bumps as my old rigid. Hopefully I wont have to spring for a PopLoc Adjust lever or pull the forks apart.

i have said something to this effect. people throw around the glazing term and don't even know truly what they're talking about. (and i am going to cover my a$$ here, but i don't know i could give the exact "definition" of glazing...so don't ask me!! with my auto and motorcycle knowledge, i'd say i have a good idea...but i don't feel like being tested on it after a rough day)

i stand by what i have said. chances are, if you have just been doing cross country riding, your pads aren't glazed!

That's basically the procedure for aligning Juicy 5 calipers. If you don't have the user's manual that came with the brakes, you can download it from Avid (SRAM) here.


There's no separate adjustment for the inboard pad on Juicys. Once you adjust the alignment, you're done.

If you still have a little rub in one spot, you can experiment with aligning the caliper to different places on the rotor. Easiest way to do this is take not if where the valve stem is when you align the caliper, and if it still rubs a bit, see where in the tire rotation the rub occurs and change the spot where you align the caliper to. A slight warp developed in the Polygon rotor that came with my Juicy 7s and by re-aligning the caliper to a different place on the rotor, I got the rub to go away.

For badsac, they're great brakes - don't give up on them yet.

Give me any brake with a rotor smaller than 203mm, and we can glaze them on one run with the tandem. If you like that blue look, we can burn the rotor a bit too.

Brakes are for cats. You'd be much quicker down the hill if you'd leave off 'em.