Modulating V Brakes Vs. Discs
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Did I inadvertantly call you a bad name? Or are you just having a bad day and decided to take it out on someone?
Originally Posted by cyccommute
I have no idea where you ride at Mr. Rearden but do your rides have to cover a temperature range of 70 F? Ever had a ride that started on a nice sunny day and ended on a good strong Colorado upslope with driving rain, fog and temperatures hovering around freezing? Where it is nice and sunny and rather mild on one side of a pass and your car is 30 cold, miserable, wet, possibly deadly miles away? In July?! Wanna be caught in shorts and a t-shirt in that? We have a name for those kinds of people in Colorado. We call them corpses.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Can you carry long gloves, rain gear (pants and jacket), long sleeve jersey, tights, light jacket, tools, food and water for a 60 mile ride in your backpack and still be comfortable?
Originally Posted by cyccommute
So you have no desire to carry extra stuff in a bag on your bike. Well bully for you. And because you don't want to means that I don't need to?
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Just because you might like having your load hit you in the back of the head everytime you go over a drop, I guess I'll just have to make a scrafice because Mr. Rearden says that I have to.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Does it hurt your riding if the bike makers were to add things like rack eyelets to bikes?
The presence or absence of eyelets doesn't neccesarily hurt/help my riding. But that is another one of your goofy tangents. The topic of discussion is your ridiculous claims about Camelbaks not being able to carry clothes/gear.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Does it hurt your image if I am freddish enough to put a rack on my bikes?
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Do you really want to be like roadies where fashion and style outweigh function?
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Do you really want to be a poser?
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I have a life...until I get stuck in the white room weighing gnat crap
1. A Trek 3900 is a low end bike with low end brakes. I don't know what Hayes system CrashVector is using nor do I know what brakes the Trek is using but are we comparing apples to apples here? I'd like to see a comparison to a high end Avid or Shimano linear brake.
1. A Trek 3900 is a low end bike with low end brakes. I don't know what Hayes system CrashVector is using nor do I know what brakes the Trek is using but are we comparing apples to apples here? I'd like to see a comparison to a high end Avid or Shimano linear brake.
Wife's bike is a Trek 3900 with Shimano Acera linear brakes
2. Tires could have a large effect on braking ability on pavement as brake style.
2a. I get the impression this may have been a skidding stop. If so, then tire composition comes into play.
2a. I get the impression this may have been a skidding stop. If so, then tire composition comes into play.
Wife's tires: Bontrager ConnectionTrail B's
3. Placebo effect. Not to question CrashVector ability but is he as willing to haul down the Trek from 25 mph to zero as hard as the Kona. It's his wife's bike after all and may not be set up for himas well as the Kona is. He may not even be thinking of that but he may be biasing the test. That's why scientist do controls and double blinds. It's difficult to do blind tests with brakes
I think CrashVector and I are in far more agreement than many might think. He agrees with me that the fabled modulation of disc is oversold. I agree with him that there are situations where discs are better than linear brakes. If you ride where it is wet a lot, then discs are probably a good choice. I ride in the semiarid west and I seldom ride in rain. If I were upgrading a bike, I would upgrade wheels, transmission and controls before I'd put on discs. They just aren't on my short list of things that are absolutely needed.
That said, if a bike comes with them, it's not a deal breaker. I'd rather not have them because of the extra cost and the extra hassle of having to learn how to deal with a new system so that I can maintain them.
There are also other issues that I don't like dealing with when there are discs on a bike. Since I ride long rides in the Colorado mountains I have to be prepared for conditions that you find at 5000 to 7000 feet up to 14,000 feet. You can start a ride at 90 F and find yourself in the middle of a summer snowstorm with temps around 30F. You need to be prepared for that kind of situation. You can't really carry extra clothes and other gear in a CamelBak. Bikes with discs (and many other bikes as well) aren't meant to be anything other than a racer wannabees so the manufacturers have taken off the niceties like rack mounts because they have to make every moderate to high end bike disc ready. So you end up with band-aid solutions like post mounted racks or other Rube Goldberg devices - none of which works as well as a good old fashioned dropout mounted bike rack!
So mx_599, ask and ye shall receive! ...Especially when I'm in the white room weighing gnat crap!
So mx_599, ask and ye shall receive! ...Especially when I'm in the white room weighing gnat crap!
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Originally Posted by Bedminster
Modulation to me infers an ability to control the degree of braking. My experience is that the hydraulic guys seem to eat up the trails as they lock up.
BTW, the person who earlier said they have to think about stopping with their rim braked bike, that's because you're stepping from one type to the other. If you only rode the rim jobbie, you'd get used to it so you wouldn't have to think about it.
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You just need to have control with hyrdraullic brakes. I havn't yet had a problem with 'skidding' or accidnelty locking up the rear wheel, you just need to back off a bit when braking....
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I know the stopping distance and speed control of v-brake bike. I really have to think about the disc bike or I end up too short and have to pick up speed or too long and have to scrub it off in a hurry. I just don't feel as "fluid" on the disc bike.
If someone was to learn to ride only on a hydraulic brake equipped bike, they would wonder what the hell everyone was complaining about (with respect to hydros).
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Originally Posted by asterisk
Well, not to drag this up after too long, but how often do you really worry about how fast you're stopping? Personally, I tend to ride trails slow and technically. Rarely does it matter if I can come to a complete and full stop over 10 to 20ft.
Whats more important is that when I apply the brake, I should feel comfortible and in control of what I'm doing.
Whats more important is that when I apply the brake, I should feel comfortible and in control of what I'm doing.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Ummm...Huh? Perhaps you should elaborate. Tires bend and flex and "warp" all the time. Not sure what you are trying to say here. Maybe I'm just being dense today
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Originally Posted by badsac
I've got Juicy 5's on my new bike. I started a thread a while back about issues with modulating the rear brake (it's to grabby), and were basically told to "learn how to ride noob".
I'm a total convert to the Juicies now since they've made me lazy and I like the lack of effort they allow me to put in. But in no way is their modulation anywhere near the precision of well setup V's.
I'm a total convert to the Juicies now since they've made me lazy and I like the lack of effort they allow me to put in. But in no way is their modulation anywhere near the precision of well setup V's.
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Originally Posted by ZachS
Hydraulic systems and discs have certain advantages over rim brakes, but power is not one of them - it's dependent on the size of the rim (or disc) to pad contact area and the amount of distance the pads move for any given amount of hand movement. Road racers use caliper brakes to slow down from extremely high speeds, and have for probably a century.
And road bikes do use caliper brakes but riding a road route is nothing like riding a singletrack trail.
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I must say this brings me back to 3 years ago when there was a thread a week about this. V's vs hydros. This has been overdone and I tend to agree partially with everyone.
90% of the people that have hydros don't need them, they do end up being a bling thing imo.
Under the right circumstances hydros are better at power and modulation. There may be some hype to it, but for those of us who fill the 10% who need it, 5% improvement in either makes a big difference.
Good v's are good enough. Heck My gf's tekros are fine for a commuter. They stop...slow down and go through pads once a year or something.
Personally, being used to hydros I would never go back to v's. The way I ride and the decents plus speed I ride at they would not last long. I burn through 2 disc pads (on the front) per day on whistler mountain if I do the full 30 runs possible. I would hate to see that number on rubber.
90% of the people that have hydros don't need them, they do end up being a bling thing imo.
Under the right circumstances hydros are better at power and modulation. There may be some hype to it, but for those of us who fill the 10% who need it, 5% improvement in either makes a big difference.
Good v's are good enough. Heck My gf's tekros are fine for a commuter. They stop...slow down and go through pads once a year or something.
Personally, being used to hydros I would never go back to v's. The way I ride and the decents plus speed I ride at they would not last long. I burn through 2 disc pads (on the front) per day on whistler mountain if I do the full 30 runs possible. I would hate to see that number on rubber.
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Originally Posted by Maelstrom
Unless your brakes are setup wrong, there is tonnes of modulation in juicy's. Especially when I compare it to my 3 different hayes.
I'm not sure why this is a concept that's hard to grasp. All things being equal, if it takes more effort to lock up a wheel with V's then you're going to have a wider range of lever effort available to modulate ***********, hence making it easier to manage the amount of braking force required.
Perhaps it's peoples riding profiles that are dictating their bias. If a V brake wont do the job for a downhiller then it's hard to think of it's ability to modulate braking effort for someone like an XC'er who might have differrent requirements?
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Its not hard to grasp, and you just pulled me in. You obviously can't grasp the fact that the pressure built from a sealed system doesn't require the force to lock up as it would a v brake. The build up of pressure assists in that. And if setup properly you can have tonnes of modulation, which wasn't my point with the statement you quoted.
Further to that point, the speed a dhillers or even a freeriders wheel is moving will generally be faster. (I don't know many xc guys hitting the speeds of dhillers, if I am wrong I am sorry) so the force required is substantially more. So when I say juicy's have more power I speak from that experience. When I say v's don't, I am speaking from my POV. Going 20k to 45k (I have heard peaks higher speeds but don't hit those myself) down a mountain is real proving ground for v's. You will loose almost all modulation as you will burn through rubber at which point you can't stop. So yes this applies to my position which I CLEARLY stated as someone who rides downhill, even my xc trails generally have 3000ft descent so I still need the longevity and stopping power, especially since I am near a temperate rainforest.
So pressure from hand being equal my statement still stands. My point was to the person who claimed to have problems with his juicy's. It was likely a setup problems specific to that issue. My point was to that, I didn't feel like getting pulled into an argument that is 4 years old and beat to death by a bunch of people who want to be right and aren't willing to give in either direction.
Can you grasp that or do I need to spell it out some more?
Further to that point, the speed a dhillers or even a freeriders wheel is moving will generally be faster. (I don't know many xc guys hitting the speeds of dhillers, if I am wrong I am sorry) so the force required is substantially more. So when I say juicy's have more power I speak from that experience. When I say v's don't, I am speaking from my POV. Going 20k to 45k (I have heard peaks higher speeds but don't hit those myself) down a mountain is real proving ground for v's. You will loose almost all modulation as you will burn through rubber at which point you can't stop. So yes this applies to my position which I CLEARLY stated as someone who rides downhill, even my xc trails generally have 3000ft descent so I still need the longevity and stopping power, especially since I am near a temperate rainforest.
So pressure from hand being equal my statement still stands. My point was to the person who claimed to have problems with his juicy's. It was likely a setup problems specific to that issue. My point was to that, I didn't feel like getting pulled into an argument that is 4 years old and beat to death by a bunch of people who want to be right and aren't willing to give in either direction.
Can you grasp that or do I need to spell it out some more?
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Originally Posted by never
When I ride, I like to push myself to the edge of my ability. If you are pushing yourself when you ride, chances are good that will need to stop aggressively on occasion.
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Originally Posted by never
And road bikes do use caliper brakes but riding a road route is nothing like riding a singletrack trail.
I've never run across a singletrack that makes that kind of demand on the braking system and I've ridden in some pretty gnarly places.
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Originally Posted by badsac
BTW, the person who earlier said they have to think about stopping with their rim braked bike, that's because you're stepping from one type to the other. If you only rode the rim jobbie, you'd get used to it so you wouldn't have to think about it.
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Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
No to both. You just posted something that was incredibly ridiculous based upon my experience, and the experience of the folks I ride with.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
Yes to all of the above. I carry the neccessary layers/gear in a Camelbak. Remember that guy (you) who claimed that "You can't really carry extra clothes and other gear in a CamelBak."?
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
Yes. And as an added bonus, I'm not limited to relatively poor brakes and I don't have a bike with compromised handling that's bogged down to the point that I can't have as much fun while logging those miles.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
You need to pay more attention to your own arguments. You're the one who claimed that clothes/gear couldn't be carried in a Camelbak.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
Backpacks have these things called "compression straps." If you tighten them your load won't hit you in the head when riding drops. You should try it sometime...
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
One of my bikes has eyelets. My other two bikes don't have eyelets. They serve different purposes and eyelets wouldn't be work on the bikes that lack them.
The presence or absence of eyelets doesn't neccesarily hurt/help my riding. But that is another one of your goofy tangents. The topic of discussion is your ridiculous claims about Camelbaks not being able to carry clothes/gear.
The presence or absence of eyelets doesn't neccesarily hurt/help my riding. But that is another one of your goofy tangents. The topic of discussion is your ridiculous claims about Camelbaks not being able to carry clothes/gear.
The lack of eyelets was an aside (that you seem to be overly focused on) about a pet peeve of mine. I like having somewhere, other than my back, to put stuff. What's wrong with that?
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
What you do has absolutely nothing to do with my image. That's a red herring. The discussion has been about linear pull brakes vs. disc brakes. You're the one that made the absolutely ******** claim that a disadvantage of a bike with discs was that you can't carry clothing/gear in a Camelbak.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
I'm also a roadie and I think your stereotype is almost a dumb as your Camelbak claim.
Why am I a poser(sic) because you think that clothes/gear can't be carried in a Camelbak?
Why am I a poser(sic) because you think that clothes/gear can't be carried in a Camelbak?
I like options. I like to do things my own way. I don't tell people that they can't do something just because I don't do it that way. I also don't like people telling me that I "have" to do something their way. I may have said "you can't carry everything you need in a Camelbak" but, taken in context, I don't think I said, or meant, that I was going to send the Camelbak police after you. No one else took it that way. I'm pretty sure that most people took it as a personal statement not as a personal affront.
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#67
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
You are a poser (which is the correct spelling by the way) because you think that what is good enough for you is good enough for everyone else. Or at least that is how you have come across.
Webster's prefers "poseur", at least in the manner it appears you're trying to use it.
And to weigh in on the V's v. Discs argument, cyccommute, it's kind of like religion IMHO- it's whatever works for you. But please don't let your admitted closed-minded-retro-grouchiness fool you into thinking that disks are a "fashion statement" or that they are not superior to V's in almost every aspect of braking as it relates to mountain bike control, e.g. power, reliability, modulation, effectiveness in adverse environmental conditions, and perhaps most significantly, required effort at the lever as it relates to rider fatigue.
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I don't know why I am weighing in on this now (and many of you will probably roll their eyes and ask the same thing ). My experience has followed the old motocross axiom: "The faster you can stop, the faster you can go." So, better braking power will (once you hone the art of using it) eventually make you a faster rider. Then modulation is easily achieved by the number of fingers on the lever. If you have REAL powerful brakes, you can afford the luxury of one-fingering them.
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Originally Posted by dminor
I don't know why I am weighing in on this now (and many of you will probably roll their eyes and ask the same thing ). My experience has followed the old motocross axiom: "The faster you can stop, the faster you can go." So, better braking power will (once you hone the art of using it) eventually make you a faster rider. Then modulation is easily achieved by the number of fingers on the lever. If you have REAL powerful brakes, you can afford the luxury of one-fingering them.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Perhaps I should have said "I" can't (and don't what to) carry extra clothes, yada yada. You took it the wrong way.
"You can't really carry extra clothes and other gear in a CamelBak."
Originally Posted by cyccommute
I'd like somewhere else to put it but bike makers don't want to give us that option because it would make their bikes too 'freddish' if they were to add a little tab.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
I'm the one who said I didn't want to carry my stuff in a Camelbak.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Oh thank you for point out what those straps are for. I always wondered but I guess I'm just too stupid to understand.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
And why wouldn't eyelets work on the bikes that don't have them? Is there something unsafe about adding them? Do they compromise the strength of the bike? Or just the image?
This assumes of course that riders would be willing to severely compromise the handling of their mountain bikes. Emphasis on "mountain bikes."
Originally Posted by cyccommute
You are a poser (which is the correct spelling by the way) because you think that what is good enough for you is good enough for everyone else.
Got it.
I think that part of the disconnect here is that you like to tour. Looking at the links in your sig, that riding is about as far from what I call "mountain biking" as one could get. It also explains why you think that linear pull brakes are as good as (or even better than) disc brakes.
The areas that I mountain bike and the trails that I mountain bike on are not places where adding weight to your frame (even if it was possible to add racks to my frames) is desirable. Trail clearance issues, weight distribution problems, hardware durability, poor bike handling etc. are reasons why the mountain bikers that I know wouldn't even consider moving their gear froma Camelbak to a frame rack (again, if it was possible).
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[snip]
I didn't want to respond anymore to this thread because we are getting too far away from the issue at hand but there are some things here than just need to be addressed.
All of the manufacturers have these guys that work for them. They are called engineers. Engineers design stuff. And engineer can easily design any structure to accept any other structure. It's what they do. I'm not an engineer (but I know a lot of them) but show me any bike - any bike - and I could probably tell you where and how to put a rack eyelet on it. It wouldn't cost much, it wouldn't compromise the structural integrity of the bike and it probably wouldn't even look half bad.
How, exactly, does a rack carrying 15 to 20 pounds of load "severely compromise the handling of ... [a] 'mountain bike'"? I've ridden lots and lots of miles with mine and never felt that I was going to lose control of my bike.
From Dictionary.com
pos·er1 n.
One who poses.
A poseur.
You seem to be the one who is telling me that I'm not a "real" mountain biker because I don't do things the way you do. I already said I mistated and should have said that "I" don't want to carry extra gear there. But there again, I guess I'm not a "real" mountain biker.
So? I also like to ride to work, ride on the road, ride a mountain bike - both epically and singletrack, and I like to tour - both on- and off-road. What does that have to do with the price of tea in China? Because I do those other things does that make me not a "real" mountain bike rider? Because you don't tour does that mean you aren't a "real" bicycle rider?
For your information, I have a very long mountain bike pedigree. I have over 80,000 lifetime miles of riding bicycles, over half of it is on mountain bikes. I have owned a Miayata Ridge Runner, a Bianichi Grizzly, a Specialized Rock Combo, a Specialized Hard Rock, a Specialized Rockhopper, a Trek of some kind, a KHS Alite 3000, a Stumpjumper Pro (1998), another Stumpjumper Pro (2003) and a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite. (Eleven mountain bikes if you are counting) Is that enough to make me a "real" mountain biker?
Need more? I've ridden my moutain bike to 13,500 feet; I've done up to, and including, 100 mile off-road rides on a mountain bike; I don't come down hills like some kind of scared newbie (fastest I've ever gone off-road is 45 mph); I know-and have been on- just about every trail- flat, steep, high, low - within a 50 mile radius of Denver; and I've done it all with a rack and trunk bag on my bike. Never noticed that I can't handle my bike because of it.
Now, is that enough for you, Mr. Rearden or do you need a list of broken bones (I can give it to you), bruises (I could probably come up with something), scars (I could provide pictures), broken bike frames and broken parts?
Am I a "real" enough mountain biker for you or can you just dismiss me as only a "tourist"?
I didn't want to respond anymore to this thread because we are getting too far away from the issue at hand but there are some things here than just need to be addressed.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
Please explain how you would suggest that manufacturers would add eyelets to the myriad of full suspension bikes that are available. Once you're done with that, explain how a rack would work with eyelets attached to a full suspension fork.
This assumes of course that riders would be willing to severely compromise the handling of their mountain bikes. Emphasis on "mountain bikes."
This assumes of course that riders would be willing to severely compromise the handling of their mountain bikes. Emphasis on "mountain bikes."
How, exactly, does a rack carrying 15 to 20 pounds of load "severely compromise the handling of ... [a] 'mountain bike'"? I've ridden lots and lots of miles with mine and never felt that I was going to lose control of my bike.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
So I'm a poseur (check Webster) because you made the outrageous claim that ""You can't really carry extra clothes and other gear in a CamelBak" and because I can, and do, carry lots of gear, quite successfully, in a Camelbak.
pos·er1 n.
One who poses.
A poseur.
You seem to be the one who is telling me that I'm not a "real" mountain biker because I don't do things the way you do. I already said I mistated and should have said that "I" don't want to carry extra gear there. But there again, I guess I'm not a "real" mountain biker.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
I think that part of the disconnect here is that you like to tour. Looking at the links in your sig, that riding is about as far from what I call "mountain biking" as one could get. It also explains why you think that linear pull brakes are as good as (or even better than) disc brakes.
The areas that I mountain bike and the trails that I mountain bike on are not places where adding weight to your frame (even if it was possible to add racks to my frames) is desirable. Trail clearance issues, weight distribution problems, hardware durability, poor bike handling etc. are reasons why the mountain bikers that I know wouldn't even consider moving their gear froma Camelbak to a frame rack (again, if it was possible).
The areas that I mountain bike and the trails that I mountain bike on are not places where adding weight to your frame (even if it was possible to add racks to my frames) is desirable. Trail clearance issues, weight distribution problems, hardware durability, poor bike handling etc. are reasons why the mountain bikers that I know wouldn't even consider moving their gear froma Camelbak to a frame rack (again, if it was possible).
For your information, I have a very long mountain bike pedigree. I have over 80,000 lifetime miles of riding bicycles, over half of it is on mountain bikes. I have owned a Miayata Ridge Runner, a Bianichi Grizzly, a Specialized Rock Combo, a Specialized Hard Rock, a Specialized Rockhopper, a Trek of some kind, a KHS Alite 3000, a Stumpjumper Pro (1998), another Stumpjumper Pro (2003) and a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite. (Eleven mountain bikes if you are counting) Is that enough to make me a "real" mountain biker?
Need more? I've ridden my moutain bike to 13,500 feet; I've done up to, and including, 100 mile off-road rides on a mountain bike; I don't come down hills like some kind of scared newbie (fastest I've ever gone off-road is 45 mph); I know-and have been on- just about every trail- flat, steep, high, low - within a 50 mile radius of Denver; and I've done it all with a rack and trunk bag on my bike. Never noticed that I can't handle my bike because of it.
Now, is that enough for you, Mr. Rearden or do you need a list of broken bones (I can give it to you), bruises (I could probably come up with something), scars (I could provide pictures), broken bike frames and broken parts?
Am I a "real" enough mountain biker for you or can you just dismiss me as only a "tourist"?
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Last edited by cyccommute; 04-20-06 at 02:57 PM.
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hey ccyco,
you might just want to look at hank's post history and look at the type of comments he usually gives. That might give you an indication at what you are dealing with.
I wouldn't get too worked up about anything he says or even respond given his standard replies. I find your info to be pretty spot on if that helps
Speaking of which, since this thread has already been jacked to hell, my wife and I are going to be making a trip out to CO soon (our last one got put on hold....we had tickets and everything!). Looking forward to hitting up some of the trails!
Nice pics btw, I really liked the secnd set!
you might just want to look at hank's post history and look at the type of comments he usually gives. That might give you an indication at what you are dealing with.
I wouldn't get too worked up about anything he says or even respond given his standard replies. I find your info to be pretty spot on if that helps
Speaking of which, since this thread has already been jacked to hell, my wife and I are going to be making a trip out to CO soon (our last one got put on hold....we had tickets and everything!). Looking forward to hitting up some of the trails!
Nice pics btw, I really liked the secnd set!
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
All of the manufacturers have these guys that work for them. They are called engineers. Engineers design stuff. And engineer can easily design any structure to accept any other structure. It's what they do. I'm not an engineer (but I know a lot of them) but show me any bike - any bike - and I could probably tell you where and how to put a rack eyelet on it. It wouldn't cost much, it wouldn't compromise the structural integrity of the bike and it probably wouldn't even look half bad.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
How, exactly, does a rack carrying 15 to 20 pounds of load "severely compromise the handling of ... [a] 'mountain bike'"? I've ridden lots and lots of miles with mine and never felt that I was going to lose control of my bike.
The same goes for adding that kind of weight to the chainstays.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
You seem to be the one who is telling me that I'm not a "real" mountain biker because I don't do things the way you do. I already said I mistated and should have said that "I" don't want to carry extra gear there. But there again, I guess I'm not a "real" mountain biker.
It sounds like you've ridden a fair bit. Great. I'm sure you had fun and will continue to have fun. At the same time, arguing that adding that kind of weight to a bicycle and will not compromise it's handling is far fetched. Arguing that manufacturers don't add tabs solely for aesthetic reasons is equally far fetched.
Pretending that there would be an easy engineering and manufacturing solution to adding eyelets that would accept a rack to full suspension bikes is wishful thinking. Add to that the simple fact that it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist (microscopic market demand) and I understand why manufacturers haven't "fixed" the problem that you have with "modern" bikes.
Finally...even if your wish was magically, and miraculously, granted, and based solely upon the trail rash that I see on many mountain bikes that have been ridden on challenging mountain bike trails, the racks wouldn't survive long (assuming of course that people would actually use them as oppossed to the much easier Camelbak solution).
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Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
Pretending that there would be an easy engineering and manufacturing solution to adding eyelets that would accept a rack to full suspension bikes is wishful thinking. Add to that the simple fact that it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist (microscopic market demand) and I understand why manufacturers haven't "fixed" the problem that you have with "modern" bikes.
Finally...even if your wish was magically, and miraculously, granted, and based solely upon the trail rash that I see on many mountain bikes that have been ridden on challenging mountain bike trails, the racks wouldn't survive long (assuming of course that people would actually use them as oppossed to the much easier Camelbak solution).
Finally...even if your wish was magically, and miraculously, granted, and based solely upon the trail rash that I see on many mountain bikes that have been ridden on challenging mountain bike trails, the racks wouldn't survive long (assuming of course that people would actually use them as oppossed to the much easier Camelbak solution).
It would be like buying a f1 car and complaining there is no room for groceries.
That said, there likely is a market, but so small that manufacturers can't see a reason to make mountain bikes into commuters when there already is a commuter sub section of bikes.
Have you ever considered getting into manufacturing. I bet it would not be to difficult to engineer after market attachable eyelets to a bike. I still think there would durability issues but if you could make it work it could have a nice niche market to sell in.
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Originally Posted by Maelstrom
It would be like buying a f1 car and complaining there is no room for groceries.
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