Modulating V Brakes Vs. Discs
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Yeh like everyones been saying, i'm NEVER going back to v-brakes from Hydro's. Mine have just worn in (eventually) and they are amazing.
Compaing V-Brakes to Hydraullic Disks:
+1 Hydro's for modulation, you can't get that on v-brakes
+1 for Hydro's for adjustability, they basically dont need adjustment, they partly 'adjust themselves' and if they do need it it is so friggen easy.
+1 for Hydro's you can ride on a buckled wheel.
+1 for Hydro's better in all weather conditions.
Compaing V-Brakes to Hydraullic Disks:
+1 Hydro's for modulation, you can't get that on v-brakes
+1 for Hydro's for adjustability, they basically dont need adjustment, they partly 'adjust themselves' and if they do need it it is so friggen easy.
+1 for Hydro's you can ride on a buckled wheel.
+1 for Hydro's better in all weather conditions.
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Originally Posted by blue_neon
Yeh like everyones been saying, i'm NEVER going back to v-brakes from Hydro's. Mine have just worn in (eventually) and they are amazing.
Compaing V-Brakes to Hydraullic Disks:
+1 Hydro's for modulation, you can't get that on v-brakes
+1 for Hydro's for adjustability, they basically dont need adjustment, they partly 'adjust themselves' and if they do need it it is so friggen easy.
+1 for Hydro's you can ride on a buckled wheel.
+1 for Hydro's better in all weather conditions.
Compaing V-Brakes to Hydraullic Disks:
+1 Hydro's for modulation, you can't get that on v-brakes
+1 for Hydro's for adjustability, they basically dont need adjustment, they partly 'adjust themselves' and if they do need it it is so friggen easy.
+1 for Hydro's you can ride on a buckled wheel.
+1 for Hydro's better in all weather conditions.
+1 the girls are always turning their heads when i go by. i think they are looking at my disc brakes
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Originally Posted by mx_599
+1 adjustability, if this was the only benefit...it would be worth it for me
+1 the girls are always turning their heads when i go by. i think they are looking at my disc brakes
+1 the girls are always turning their heads when i go by. i think they are looking at my disc brakes
So dream on.
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Originally Posted by mx_599
interesting....where is cyccommute's comment on this?
It's a data point...1...through which can be drawn an infinite number of straight lines. It could show a trend but there are a number of factors that need to be considered.
1. A Trek 3900 is a low end bike with low end brakes. I don't know what Hayes system CrashVector is using nor do I know what brakes the Trek is using but are we comparing apples to apples here? I'd like to see a comparison to a high end Avid or Shimano linear brake.
2. Tires could have a large effect on braking ability on pavement as brake style.
2a. I get the impression this may have been a skidding stop. If so, then tire composition comes into play.
3. Placebo effect. Not to question CrashVector ability but is he as willing to haul down the Trek from 25 mph to zero as hard as the Kona. It's his wife's bike after all and may not be set up for himas well as the Kona is. He may not even be thinking of that but he may be biasing the test. That's why scientist do controls and double blinds. It's difficult to do blind tests with brakes
I think CrashVector and I are in far more agreement than many might think. He agrees with me that the fabled modulation of disc is oversold. I agree with him that there are situations where discs are better than linear brakes. If you ride where it is wet a lot, then discs are probably a good choice. I ride in the semiarid west and I seldom ride in rain. If I were upgrading a bike, I would upgrade wheels, transmission and controls before I'd put on discs. They just aren't on my short list of things that are absolutely needed.
That said, if a bike comes with them, it's not a deal breaker. I'd rather not have them because of the extra cost and the extra hassle of having to learn how to deal with a new system so that I can maintain them.
There are also other issues that I don't like dealing with when there are discs on a bike. Since I ride long rides in the Colorado mountains I have to be prepared for conditions that you find at 5000 to 7000 feet up to 14,000 feet. You can start a ride at 90 F and find yourself in the middle of a summer snowstorm with temps around 30F. You need to be prepared for that kind of situation. You can't really carry extra clothes and other gear in a CamelBak. Bikes with discs (and many other bikes as well) aren't meant to be anything other than a racer wannabees so the manufacturers have taken off the niceties like rack mounts because they have to make every moderate to high end bike disc ready. So you end up with band-aid solutions like post mounted racks or other Rube Goldberg devices - none of which works as well as a good old fashioned dropout mounted bike rack!
So mx_599, ask and ye shall receive! ...Especially when I'm in the white room weighing gnat crap!
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
You can start a ride at 90 F and find yourself in the middle of a summer snowstorm with temps around 30F. You need to be prepared for that kind of situation. You can't really carry extra clothes and other gear in a CamelBak.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Bikes with discs (and many other bikes as well) aren't meant to be anything other than a racer wannabees so the manufacturers have taken off the niceties like rack mounts because they have to make every moderate to high end bike disc ready.
"racer wannabees? because they lack eyelets? Wow.
At this point you're so far out in left field that you can't even see the field anymore.
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Well, I don't know if I'm going to help shed light on the question at hand or just add more babble, but let me share my experience with the two styles of brakes in a trail application:
I'm an aggressive trail mountain biker that loves singletrack, jumping, and romantic urban assault by moonlight, and I have two bikes:
Bike 1-Aluminum Hardtail / Pretty decent Shimano V-Brakes / Aftermarket pads
Bike 2-Aluminum Hardtail / Avid Juicy five's / aftermarket pads
I have a section burned into my memory on my local trail that I usually ride at approximately 20-25mph. It is mildly twisty (not too much at that speed) with a few small stumps to hop over and ends on a 35-45 degree descent that is loose, rocky, and short. I usually want to do this short rocky descent (with a switchback at the bottom btw) at a low speed so I don't miss the turn at the bottom. This involves me killing my 25mph momentum before I get there.
I have ridden this section numerous times on both bikes and I never think "Will I be able to slow down in time?" with bike 2. On bike 1 however, I am never riding at my 'peak enjoyment level' if you will, because I have to keep my speed in check so I can slow down in time. This is with one finger on discs versus two fingers on my V's. (yes it took me a while to get used to one finger too, but there's no other way...and I love it)
Obviously this example doesn't apply to a touring bike b/c it's two different styles of riding and enjoyment. I can tell you however that I have had V-Brakes (or linear-pull brakes, depending on your "PC" terminology) from several manufacturers over several years and none of them are as "smooth" at the lever, maintenance friendly, powerful, and confidance building as my Juicy Five's. Comparing modulation of the two in this setting really doesn't matter quite as much because unless you're doing nose wheelies trying to finely balance your bike with a feather touch of the lever, you can modulate either set of my brakes well enough to negotiate the trails w/o skidding out of control. (BTW modulation is better with my discs than my V's)
That said, I have never owned another set of discs and I don't know how they compare to others. I read alot of articles in magazines that praise a few other brands of Hydraulic Disc brakes.
I am kind of a "tech geek" when it comes to my bike being set up right, free of any foreign noises, and smoothness of operation of cable (or fluid) actuated mechanisms. I can't get over how smooth the hydro's are at the lever compared to a very nice set of properly lubed cable actuated brakes.
For my style of aggressive trail / jump / urban riding, I would always choose hydraulic discs over linear pull rim brakes any day of the week given my experiences.
Bottom line I guess is...if you have a buddy that has a nice set of discs that are broken in, see if you can try them out. If you live in Topeka KS, you can try mine out.
One more thing, in the May 2006 issue of MBAction, there is an article called "Make your rim brakes work like discs." It is a "how to" upgrade involving Kool-Stop's Tectonic Interchangeable Compound Technology and Nokon's compressionless brake housing. These are people who are paid to ride, review, and know bikes inside-out and they feel that discs are superior than linear's.
Not that their word is 'Gospel', but it's just another opinion.
Sorry 'bout the length of my post, have a nice day!
I'm an aggressive trail mountain biker that loves singletrack, jumping, and romantic urban assault by moonlight, and I have two bikes:
Bike 1-Aluminum Hardtail / Pretty decent Shimano V-Brakes / Aftermarket pads
Bike 2-Aluminum Hardtail / Avid Juicy five's / aftermarket pads
I have a section burned into my memory on my local trail that I usually ride at approximately 20-25mph. It is mildly twisty (not too much at that speed) with a few small stumps to hop over and ends on a 35-45 degree descent that is loose, rocky, and short. I usually want to do this short rocky descent (with a switchback at the bottom btw) at a low speed so I don't miss the turn at the bottom. This involves me killing my 25mph momentum before I get there.
I have ridden this section numerous times on both bikes and I never think "Will I be able to slow down in time?" with bike 2. On bike 1 however, I am never riding at my 'peak enjoyment level' if you will, because I have to keep my speed in check so I can slow down in time. This is with one finger on discs versus two fingers on my V's. (yes it took me a while to get used to one finger too, but there's no other way...and I love it)
Obviously this example doesn't apply to a touring bike b/c it's two different styles of riding and enjoyment. I can tell you however that I have had V-Brakes (or linear-pull brakes, depending on your "PC" terminology) from several manufacturers over several years and none of them are as "smooth" at the lever, maintenance friendly, powerful, and confidance building as my Juicy Five's. Comparing modulation of the two in this setting really doesn't matter quite as much because unless you're doing nose wheelies trying to finely balance your bike with a feather touch of the lever, you can modulate either set of my brakes well enough to negotiate the trails w/o skidding out of control. (BTW modulation is better with my discs than my V's)
That said, I have never owned another set of discs and I don't know how they compare to others. I read alot of articles in magazines that praise a few other brands of Hydraulic Disc brakes.
I am kind of a "tech geek" when it comes to my bike being set up right, free of any foreign noises, and smoothness of operation of cable (or fluid) actuated mechanisms. I can't get over how smooth the hydro's are at the lever compared to a very nice set of properly lubed cable actuated brakes.
For my style of aggressive trail / jump / urban riding, I would always choose hydraulic discs over linear pull rim brakes any day of the week given my experiences.
Bottom line I guess is...if you have a buddy that has a nice set of discs that are broken in, see if you can try them out. If you live in Topeka KS, you can try mine out.
One more thing, in the May 2006 issue of MBAction, there is an article called "Make your rim brakes work like discs." It is a "how to" upgrade involving Kool-Stop's Tectonic Interchangeable Compound Technology and Nokon's compressionless brake housing. These are people who are paid to ride, review, and know bikes inside-out and they feel that discs are superior than linear's.
Not that their word is 'Gospel', but it's just another opinion.
Sorry 'bout the length of my post, have a nice day!
Last edited by ed; 04-18-06 at 01:10 PM.
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Ya know, after that long friggin' post I just left I re-read the origional poster's question. This thread is about modulation not stopping power. I don't know how so many of us got off on stopping power, I apologize.
Either way, my discs modulate better. You just have to train your fingers to not pull so hard. If you've used linear's or canti's for several years, it's going to be hard to back off and fine-tune your motor skills to use lighter touch versus a two fingered "Vulcan Death Grip".
Either way, my discs modulate better. You just have to train your fingers to not pull so hard. If you've used linear's or canti's for several years, it's going to be hard to back off and fine-tune your motor skills to use lighter touch versus a two fingered "Vulcan Death Grip".
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Originally Posted by chelboed
Ya know, after that long friggin' post I just left I re-read the origional poster's question. This thread is about modulation not stopping power. I don't know how so many of us got off on stopping power, I apologize.
Either way, my discs modulate better. You just have to train your fingers to not pull so hard. If you've used linear's or canti's for several years, it's going to be hard to back off and fine-tune your motor skills to use lighter touch versus a two fingered "Vulcan Death Grip".
Either way, my discs modulate better. You just have to train your fingers to not pull so hard. If you've used linear's or canti's for several years, it's going to be hard to back off and fine-tune your motor skills to use lighter touch versus a two fingered "Vulcan Death Grip".
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Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
What planet do you live on?? I have been carrying extra clothes and other gear in Camelbaks (Deuters, etc.) for years. I have ridden with many other people that do the same thing. To claim that you can't carry clothes/gear ina backpack that is design for just that purpose is ludicrous.
I have no idea where you ride at Mr. Rearden but do your rides have to cover a temperature range of 70 F? Ever had a ride that started on a nice sunny day and ended on a good strong Colorado upslope with driving rain, fog and temperatures hovering around freezing? Where it is nice and sunny and rather mild on one side of a pass and your car is 30 cold, miserable, wet, possibly deadly miles away? In July?! Wanna be caught in shorts and a t-shirt in that? We have a name for those kinds of people in Colorado. We call them corpses.
I have. I've done rides where I ended on the very edge of hypothermia where 15 or 20 minutes of shivering under a blanket was barely enough to get me out of it. Can you carry long gloves, rain gear (pants and jacket), long sleeve jersey, tights, light jacket, tools, food and water for a 60 mile ride in your backpack and still be comfortable? I can't nor do I want to. Let the bike take some of that load.
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
I have absolutely no desire to carry extra clothes/gear on a bike mounted rack when I can carry the same gear on my back while not compromising the bike's handling (like racks do).
"racer wannabees? because they lack eyelets? Wow.
At this point you're so far out in left field that you can't even see the field anymore.
"racer wannabees? because they lack eyelets? Wow.
At this point you're so far out in left field that you can't even see the field anymore.
You may be satified with the way bikes are built but I'm not! Does it hurt your riding if the bike makers were to add things like rack eyelets to bikes? Does it hurt your image if I am freddish enough to put a rack on my bikes? Do you really want to be like roadies where fashion and style outweigh function? Do you really want to be a poser?
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Ouch!!! They should have a "cyberboxing ring" for y'all.
I think if I were a commuter, I would probably have v-brakes as well, but just for cost-effectivness. I'd love to have a bike with a couple of racks and pannier's on it so I could throw a bunch'a crap in it and go. If I could afford that and incorporate hydraulic discs, I would. I wouldn't consider discs a "necessity" on a bike that was targeted for such things. That's just not where my own passion lies. I'm more of an "All Mountain/XC" thrill seaker minus the Bender-jumps. So if money wasn't a factor, I'd still do Hydraulic discs on a commuter bike because of the cruddy weather factor, but I tend to spend my money on bikes that are PC-labeled "All Mountain" and are able to handle small'ish drops, jumps, descents, and still climb fairly well on singletrack.
I think if I were a commuter, I would probably have v-brakes as well, but just for cost-effectivness. I'd love to have a bike with a couple of racks and pannier's on it so I could throw a bunch'a crap in it and go. If I could afford that and incorporate hydraulic discs, I would. I wouldn't consider discs a "necessity" on a bike that was targeted for such things. That's just not where my own passion lies. I'm more of an "All Mountain/XC" thrill seaker minus the Bender-jumps. So if money wasn't a factor, I'd still do Hydraulic discs on a commuter bike because of the cruddy weather factor, but I tend to spend my money on bikes that are PC-labeled "All Mountain" and are able to handle small'ish drops, jumps, descents, and still climb fairly well on singletrack.
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Originally Posted by chelboed
Ouch!!! They should have a "cyberboxing ring" for y'all.
I think if I were a commuter, I would probably have v-brakes as well, but just for cost-effectivness. I'd love to have a bike with a couple of racks and pannier's on it so I could throw a bunch'a crap in it and go. If I could afford that and incorporate hydraulic discs, I would. I wouldn't consider discs a "necessity" on a bike that was targeted for such things. That's just not where my own passion lies. I'm more of an "All Mountain/XC" thrill seaker minus the Bender-jumps. So if money wasn't a factor, I'd still do Hydraulic discs on a commuter bike because of the cruddy weather factor, but I tend to spend my money on bikes that are PC-labeled "All Mountain" and are able to handle small'ish drops, jumps, descents, and still climb fairly well on singletrack.
I think if I were a commuter, I would probably have v-brakes as well, but just for cost-effectivness. I'd love to have a bike with a couple of racks and pannier's on it so I could throw a bunch'a crap in it and go. If I could afford that and incorporate hydraulic discs, I would. I wouldn't consider discs a "necessity" on a bike that was targeted for such things. That's just not where my own passion lies. I'm more of an "All Mountain/XC" thrill seaker minus the Bender-jumps. So if money wasn't a factor, I'd still do Hydraulic discs on a commuter bike because of the cruddy weather factor, but I tend to spend my money on bikes that are PC-labeled "All Mountain" and are able to handle small'ish drops, jumps, descents, and still climb fairly well on singletrack.
I have another ride that starts at around 8000 feet goes to 11,600 then goes before going to a town 30 miles from the start and then you come back... all in one day! That's where I got caught in a nasty summer storm. The road actually splits down the middle of a wilderness area. 100 yards in either direction is wilderness. Not a lot of places to get anything other than water out there, so I end up carrying a lot of stuff. And I'd prefer not having to carry 20 lbs of gear, food and water on my back. It gets old after 6 or 7 hours...and at that point you still have 2 or 3 hours of riding left
Different strokes.
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Originally Posted by chelboed
Ya know, after that long friggin' post I just left I re-read the origional poster's question. This thread is about modulation not stopping power. I don't know how so many of us got off on stopping power, I apologize.
Either way, my discs modulate better. You just have to train your fingers to not pull so hard. If you've used linear's or canti's for several years, it's going to be hard to back off and fine-tune your motor skills to use lighter touch versus a two fingered "Vulcan Death Grip".
Either way, my discs modulate better. You just have to train your fingers to not pull so hard. If you've used linear's or canti's for several years, it's going to be hard to back off and fine-tune your motor skills to use lighter touch versus a two fingered "Vulcan Death Grip".
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I have a life...until I get stuck in the white room weighing gnat crap
It's a data point...1...through which can be drawn an infinite number of straight lines. It could show a trend but there are a number of factors that need to be considered.
1. A Trek 3900 is a low end bike with low end brakes. I don't know what Hayes system CrashVector is using nor do I know what brakes the Trek is using but are we comparing apples to apples here? I'd like to see a comparison to a high end Avid or Shimano linear brake.
2. Tires could have a large effect on braking ability on pavement as brake style.
2a. I get the impression this may have been a skidding stop. If so, then tire composition comes into play.
3. Placebo effect. Not to question CrashVector ability but is he as willing to haul down the Trek from 25 mph to zero as hard as the Kona. It's his wife's bike after all and may not be set up for himas well as the Kona is. He may not even be thinking of that but he may be biasing the test. That's why scientist do controls and double blinds. It's difficult to do blind tests with brakes
So mx_599, ask and ye shall receive! ...Especially when I'm in the white room weighing gnat crap!
It's a data point...1...through which can be drawn an infinite number of straight lines. It could show a trend but there are a number of factors that need to be considered.
1. A Trek 3900 is a low end bike with low end brakes. I don't know what Hayes system CrashVector is using nor do I know what brakes the Trek is using but are we comparing apples to apples here? I'd like to see a comparison to a high end Avid or Shimano linear brake.
2. Tires could have a large effect on braking ability on pavement as brake style.
2a. I get the impression this may have been a skidding stop. If so, then tire composition comes into play.
3. Placebo effect. Not to question CrashVector ability but is he as willing to haul down the Trek from 25 mph to zero as hard as the Kona. It's his wife's bike after all and may not be set up for himas well as the Kona is. He may not even be thinking of that but he may be biasing the test. That's why scientist do controls and double blinds. It's difficult to do blind tests with brakes
So mx_599, ask and ye shall receive! ...Especially when I'm in the white room weighing gnat crap!
i was pulling X's and #'s out of my a$$ when i mentioned the X/2X thing! you took it too literally. however, hammering down a hill and braking at that last possible moment...i'd rather have calipers and rotors-- not silly little rubber forceps haphazardly clamping my rim
i would rather have a perfectly true, clean rim without the hideous markings of rubber pad shoe things that aren't even toed correctly after like 19 feet of riding.
since you ride in such ambiguous conditions, discs might be a boon to you as well. they are far more reliable in a broader range of temperatures and conditions.
...but good luck with your rim brakes
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Last edited by mx_599; 04-18-06 at 03:25 PM.
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Originally Posted by chelboed
I have ridden this section numerous times on both bikes and I never think "Will I be able to slow down in time?" with bike 2. On bike 1 however, I am never riding at my 'peak enjoyment level' if you will, because I have to keep my speed in check so I can slow down in time. This is with one finger on discs versus two fingers on my V's. (yes it took me a while to get used to one finger too, but there's no other way...and I love it)
- (BTW modulation is better with my discs than my V's)
- That said, I have never owned another set of discs and I don't know how they compare to others. I read alot of articles in magazines that praise a few other brands of Hydraulic Disc brakes.
- I can't get over how smooth the hydro's are at the lever compared to a very nice set of properly lubed cable actuated brakes.
- I would always choose hydraulic discs over linear pull rim brakes any day of the week given my experiences.
One more thing, in the May 2006 issue of MBAction, there is an article called "Make your rim brakes work like discs."
disc brakes are the ideal set-up for touring bikes as well. you don't see Goldwings with drums...do you? the problem is the age bracket of those primarily involved with touring are not conducive to change
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Originally Posted by mx_599
since you ride in such ambigous conditions, discs might be a boon to you as well. they are far more reliable in a broader range of temperatures and conditions.
...but good luck with your rim brakes
...but good luck with your rim brakes
I've been riding since before that antique you ride was cutting edge so I have a right to be crotchty! Dang kids! Get off my lawn before I call the cops!
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#41
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Originally Posted by mx_599
disc brakes are the ideal set-up for touring bikes as well. you don't see Goldwings with drums...do you? the problem is the age bracket of those primarily involved with touring are not conducive to change
Touring bikes aready have discs anyway. The rotors are just a little bigger.
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what it boils down to is my heavy motocycle racing back ground, anyway i can make my pedal bike more like the good ol' days i jump at it. whether it be an improvement or not. i am used to slamming on my brakes at the last moment and usually attemt tp ride that way on my weak XC outings
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On the breaking power thing:
If both sets of breaks can raise your rear wheel off the ground, which I hope they can because I know my no name vbreaks that came with my bike that costs less then a hydro set up can, then how can disc breaks have more power? As long as both can lock a wheel, they both are optimal.
Though, I cant say I have tried to lock my front wheel when moving down hill at 25mph in a muddy deluge.
If both sets of breaks can raise your rear wheel off the ground, which I hope they can because I know my no name vbreaks that came with my bike that costs less then a hydro set up can, then how can disc breaks have more power? As long as both can lock a wheel, they both are optimal.
Though, I cant say I have tried to lock my front wheel when moving down hill at 25mph in a muddy deluge.
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Originally Posted by mx_599
some like to stop in X amount of feet rather than 2X amount of feet. no v-brake can stop as fast as a rotor/caliper. save the stopping on dirt/skid argument do a quick test on pavement with quality hydraulic (mech ) and compare to rim brakes. you're experienced...i am sure you already know. rim brakes stop, but not in as short a distance.
Whats more important is that when I apply the brake, I should feel comfortible and in control of what I'm doing.
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I think that's where I was headed with my short story that I posted earlier...with my V-brake bike, I have to conciously think about braking and give it a bit of effort. Sure, I can lock em up if I yank REAL hard, but when I ride the same section on my Hydro bike, I just don't even think about braking...I feel much more comfortable and fluid. I know that I can have a ball bombing through a section knowing I can stop for a walker if need be. When I ride comfortably, my overall riding experience is positive instead of labored.
Really though, I don't think that this thread was started to verify stopping power. (which is where it went) The origional poster asked about modulation...which I still feel is owned by hydraulic disc brakes.
Ya know I think it kinda goes this way:
If you got a V-brake with ample power, it's probably gonna be grabby. If it has ample modulation, it's gonna be kinda weak.
Hydraulic disc brakes have the best of both. Ample modulation with gobs of power.
Really though, I don't think that this thread was started to verify stopping power. (which is where it went) The origional poster asked about modulation...which I still feel is owned by hydraulic disc brakes.
Ya know I think it kinda goes this way:
If you got a V-brake with ample power, it's probably gonna be grabby. If it has ample modulation, it's gonna be kinda weak.
Hydraulic disc brakes have the best of both. Ample modulation with gobs of power.
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Originally Posted by asterisk
Well, not to drag this up after too long, but how often do you really worry about how fast you're stopping? Personally, I tend to ride trails slow and technically. Rarely does it matter if I can come to a complete and full stop over 10 to 20ft.
Whats more important is that when I apply the brake, I should feel comfortible and in control of what I'm doing.
Whats more important is that when I apply the brake, I should feel comfortible and in control of what I'm doing.
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attn:
those who think this thread got off topic should read the OP original questions. everything in this thread is VERY relevant
you cannot go by just the thread title
those who think this thread got off topic should read the OP original questions. everything in this thread is VERY relevant
you cannot go by just the thread title
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#48
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Originally Posted by mx_599
what it boils down to is my heavy motocycle racing back ground, anyway i can make my pedal bike more like the good ol' days i jump at it. whether it be an improvement or not. i am used to slamming on my brakes at the last moment and usually attemt tp ride that way on my weak XC outings
i don't, but i still think discs on a touring bike is a completely ridiculous and stupid idea.
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Originally Posted by ZachS
dude, what the hell does your 'heavy motocycle [sic] racing back ground [sic]" have to do with this? he has a 'heavy' BICYCLE TOURING BACKGROUND.
i don't, but i still think discs on a touring bike is a completely ridiculous and stupid idea.
i don't, but i still think discs on a touring bike is a completely ridiculous and stupid idea.
my point was that i tend to be on and off my brakes hard. rim brakes wouldn't cut it. i also ride with one finger. it would be silly to use all fingers on a rim brake, i just wouldn't feel secure
discs on a touring bike is a wondrous idea, you just do not realize it yet. open your mind....
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Another old timer agrees
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Since someone has to do it, I'll chime in for V-brakes. Do your brakes stop you now? Do you like spending money on something that really isn't necessary in all but a few conditions but is fashionable? (I gonna catch hell for that )
Look, I'm a very large person. I have a touring bike with cantilever brakes and I carry touring loads on it (me plus bike plus touring gear). All told it weights in excess of 300 pounds. The bike also has cantilever brakes and I've never had a problem stopping with them. I've never blown a tire because of excessive heat build up and, when I've broken a spoke, I was able to adjust the brakes so that they would still stop me but not keep me from moving down the road.
I also have a hardtail with V-brakes - more properly, linear brakes - that I ride off-road in some pretty hairy conditions and never had a problem with it stopping either, even in a driving rain storm or snow or mud or sand or just about any other medium you can name except, possibly, jello. But I haven't tired jello, so I can't say.
I also have a dual suspension bike with hydraulic brakes. They are powerful. They will stop you - NOW! But I have yet to experience the so called "superior modulation" that everyone says hydraulics have. They are like an on/off switch. I have to be much more careful in their application or I feel like the bike is going to pitch me on my head! You DO NOT want to grab a fist full of brake lever in a panic with the hydraulics! It's a good way of doing self-inflicted dentistry! I personally find that linear brakes (and cantis) have a smoother, more progressive feel then the hydros. That's what I would call modulation.
Look, I'm a very large person. I have a touring bike with cantilever brakes and I carry touring loads on it (me plus bike plus touring gear). All told it weights in excess of 300 pounds. The bike also has cantilever brakes and I've never had a problem stopping with them. I've never blown a tire because of excessive heat build up and, when I've broken a spoke, I was able to adjust the brakes so that they would still stop me but not keep me from moving down the road.
I also have a hardtail with V-brakes - more properly, linear brakes - that I ride off-road in some pretty hairy conditions and never had a problem with it stopping either, even in a driving rain storm or snow or mud or sand or just about any other medium you can name except, possibly, jello. But I haven't tired jello, so I can't say.
I also have a dual suspension bike with hydraulic brakes. They are powerful. They will stop you - NOW! But I have yet to experience the so called "superior modulation" that everyone says hydraulics have. They are like an on/off switch. I have to be much more careful in their application or I feel like the bike is going to pitch me on my head! You DO NOT want to grab a fist full of brake lever in a panic with the hydraulics! It's a good way of doing self-inflicted dentistry! I personally find that linear brakes (and cantis) have a smoother, more progressive feel then the hydros. That's what I would call modulation.
Modulation to me infers an ability to control the degree of braking. My experience is that the hydraulic guys seem to eat up the trails as they lock up.
I have yet to get out on my new ceramic rims w/linear pulls. My expectation is they should be even better. I will report after I get out on them. (Too many coaching responsiblities currently)
BTW, anyone else using linear pulls w/ceramic rims?