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For what it's worth, when I ride in the woods, or anywhere there's underbrush and such, I pull the stand off, and switch to the Crossmax wheels with the Larsen TT tires @ 25psi.. they are much more grabby for uneven groundcover and make for a much softer, plusher ride.
With the Holy Rollers (and the stand) I usually lock out the suspension, and stay on roads. I'd use a road bike, but I have to go some distance to get TO the pavement, and the road I'm on is poorly graded, so you hit rocks the size of a meaty fist every few feet. a superlight road wheel with a 700x19c tire @ 100psi lasts about 30 feet on that stuff before you're lying in the road groaning, or the wheel needs retruing haha I understand the desire to lose the stand though, for XC type riding, which is indeed the bike's intended purpose. I can compromise, too :) |
Originally Posted by GlassWolf
(Post 6671651)
what would that be, since I ride on asphault and hardpack?
If I ride XC, or more to the point, when I ride XC again, I'll remove it and switch wheelsets. For now, I leave the bike outside in front of a friend's house when I'm out, and I don't care to leave it lying around in gravel. There's a reason they sell kickstands, too. have you prepared for it to be stolen ??? WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY to nice of a bike to have all that XTR stuff to not use it off road. Wanna do some trading....:thumb: |
prepared? yes. it's covered under my insurance. I'm working on riding it XC more and more, but it's taking time to rebuild muscle tone that atrophied during years of dialysis prior to the organ transplant, not to mention the massive loss of bone density thanks to the decade plus of steroids as a part of the immune supression therapy. yay prednisone.
already had the bone structure of one foot collapse, and while nothing can be done for that, at least I can still ride :) |
Originally Posted by Zaskar24
(Post 6671567)
liv_rong,
What tires are you running? They look almost like Small Block 8s. Hopefully I'll be able to ride again in the fall and see you at some CAMBr events like the race. Scott I do plan on riding the race for sure, I just need to get my single track skills up to par because right now I suck. |
SID - ~?Up for a few tips?~ :-}
2 Attachment(s)
Hi GlassWolf, ________________________ ;) ""or anybody"" ;)
A beauty of bike,YOU got there! :thumb: What SID is the BLACK-beauty? [I wish i got Black,too] I´m just upgrading from ´04SID-team ->to a:´07SID-WC ,and need some TIPS,if your interested ?? I´m not shure how to check if the 65mm(travel) REDUCER is installed?? My LockOut seem not work proper?? HOW to SETUP "FLOODGATE" ???? what does it exactly??:wtf: HOW often & what SERVICE you´r doing where & when?? How long is your "diving-tube"(travel-tube?) NOTshure english word for tube whats"sinking" in Outertube? On my SID-team I got 120mm, on SID-WC only 100mm ?? Whith 80mm Travel stay only 20mm "clean" above Travel? Does your Fork really works whole 80mm ??? ~~ a LOT of Questions(I know):roflmao2: ~>but ~> if you can ~> PLEASE HELP me ~~~ === THANKS & greetz from AUSTRIA (VIENNA) === DcCore :speedy: :cheers: :speedy: |
Originally Posted by GlassWolf
(Post 6675332)
prepared? yes. it's covered under my insurance. I'm working on riding it XC more and more, but it's taking time to rebuild muscle tone that atrophied during years of dialysis prior to the organ transplant, not to mention the massive loss of bone density thanks to the decade plus of steroids as a part of the immune supression therapy. yay prednisone.
already had the bone structure of one foot collapse, and while nothing can be done for that, at least I can still ride :) :crash:Both Legs pretty f***d up(48%Handicap-lost ancles,BoneFragments,transpl,...), with 33years of age-I have the power to ride 4-6days a week(2-5hours) XC,Singltrail´n & bit downhill´n -as long it doesn´t hurt!!! {BUT: I LOVE IT} lucky I´m only 63kg(183cm),as lightweight its O.K. to ride almost as I want! and after Training,I will participate on XC-RACE on GranCanaria-Islands this Summer !!! {I wish more US-riders would come} --with my bad english,:(I didn´t understand: ""decade plus of steroids as a part of the immune supression therapy."" **********?? :speedy: ------- all the best for FUTURE RIDING and staying HEALTHY ---------- :speedy: ~~ GREETZ from the Alps (Austria/Vienna) >Dali<~~ |
A beauty of bike,YOU got there! :thumb: What SID is the BLACK-beauty? [I wish i got Black,too]
thanks. It's an 07 SID Team. I´m not shure how to check if the 65mm(travel) REDUCER is installed?? you should be able to measure the travel with the shock aired down (both pos and neg) with a tape measure or ruler. My LockOut seem not work proper?? This may be because your shock isn't set up for your body weight, or it may just need adjustment. www.sram.com has a "support" link for RockShox. Go there, download the PDF manuals for your SID shock, and read them for setting up the shock. They also have a video embedded for setting up the poplock remote. HOW to SETUP "FLOODGATE" ???? what does it exactly??:wtf: floodgate is an articulated control for shock damping. It's like a partial lockout. If you set it so it limits shock travel as much as possible, it essentially will lock out your front shock travel for climbing and pavement riding to improve efficiency. HOW often & what SERVICE you´r doing where & when?? all I've done so far is have it checked over once by my LBS, and check the air every few months to make sure it doesn't lose any. Not much service required so far, but SRAM's site also has service and technical manuals for download, along with periodic service charts in those manuals. How long is your "diving-tube"(travel-tube?) NOTshure english word for tube whats"sinking" in Outertube? On my SID-team I got 120mm, on SID-WC only 100mm ?? Whith 80mm Travel stay only 20mm "clean" above Travel? Does your Fork really works whole 80mm ??? I have 80mm of travel, and I have mine set for a pretty plush (soft) ride when it's not locked out, with a quick rebound. my travel indicator is usually sitting around half to three quarters of the tube length after a ride. |
Wow. That is incredible.
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ok, as a newbie I'll post up my turd :)
Was a '99 DBR X2, frame is newer since I cracked that at the rear shock mount on the front triangle. Rear triangle was replaced when I cracked the swingarm in Moab. Nothing original left on the bike due to just using it and wearing things out (or upgrades). Many good years of riding though with the current config and it still works perfect for me. Love the bike. Currently sits with Avid Mech. discs (had Magura hydraulics for a while...after completely going/fading on me on Poison Spider Mesa in Moab, they got ditched that evening for the mechs. Z1 Wedge fork. Float RL rear shock with travel adjust - I think it was off some FSR Enduro. Can switch up travel now without changing the linkage. LX front stuff, XT rear. Rhyno Lite 36 spoke wheels, XT hubs. Here's an old pic I took setup for winter riding. http://www.isaacolson.com/web/x2.jpg |
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ZeCanon- How do you like the ridgeline I was thinking about that doing that tire setup as well. Because the Ridgeline looks fast.
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Gotta love that Canadian made steel... built her up yesterday and am loving the new ride.
http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...millcreek1.jpg Rocky Mountain Blizzard w / Mars Elite fork |
ZeCanon that is pure pr0n.
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XC - actually haven't ridden it yet. I'm about to head out for my pre-work ride, so I'll let you know.
BFG - Thanks :) |
May be a moronic question, ZeCanon, but do you run a double-specific shifter or use the extra position as a trim feature?
Oh, and a freakin' fantastic bike, too. What's it weigh? |
I use a standard left grip shifter and use the limit screws on the derailleur to set it up so the shifter can't go past "2". The trim feature is nice with the gripshift especially since I run a modified Dura Ace front derailleur (not shown in photo) which is skinnier than a standard triple mtb derailleur. I have a 42t big ring I plan on adding soon, and when that goes on the road derailleur can go on. The 42 allows me to spend 90% of my races in the big ring, since I have my chainline set up so that I can run big/big if I have to. I hate shifting my FD, it just isn't efficient, so I'd rather keep it in a 42 for everything but very long or very steep climbs.
If you have the legs, I would highly recommend going to a double provided you want to invest in a double specific crankset. The narrower Q-factor is a godsend for someone who spends most of their time training on a road bike. The difference in Q between the average road bike and mtb is over 10mm, which is enough to do some serious damage to your knees when you're spending hours on both bikes. As shown, a tiny bit over 20lbs. I haven't converted the new tires to tubeless yet, need to find a light 400mm seatpost, and need to swap out the stem which should put it close to 18. The tubeless conversion alone knocks off about 3/4lb. I'm also going to be running a 140mm rear rotor once it comes in, which will knock another 50g or so off. The goal is to have a fully functional and tough 18lb bike. XCracer- Just got back from my first ride on the ridgeline, and I was pleased with it. I was running about 5psi higher than I usually do because I was running tubes, but the tires still hooked up very well on loose gravel and hardpack, and definitely rolled fast. Hooks up better than a crossmark or ranchero on the loose stuff, for sure, but maybe doesn't roll quite as fast. Hard to say, since it rained last night so things were a bit slower than usual. If your races are mostly hardpack/loose over hardpack I'd highly recommend it as a rear tire. The monorail is a far better front tire. I liked the combo today. |
Does the number plate help when in your aero tuck?
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Originally Posted by gastro
(Post 6706932)
Does the number plate help when in your aero tuck?
But really, I just left it on there so I could feel really great about myself when you all think to yourselves "wow, black number plate, he must be fast." I needed a little confidence boost. But really really, the photos weren't taken for you hooligans, I had to send one of my bike out to sponsors. They like to know that I do actually race the thing, so I left the number on. |
Originally Posted by ZeCanon
(Post 6706880)
As shown, a tiny bit over 20lbs. I haven't converted the new tires to tubeless yet, need to find a light 400mm seatpost, and need to swap out the stem which should put it close to 18. The tubeless conversion alone knocks off about 3/4lb. I'm also going to be running a 140mm rear rotor once it comes in, which will knock another 50g or so off. The goal is to have a fully functional and tough 18lb bike.
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Close to 18 meaning 19pointsomething. Not close to 18 flat.
lose tubes: -290g (heavy tubes in there now) add sealant: + 50g Valves: + 25g net loss: 215g seatpost: I think I can lose 80g stem: lose 50g, the thing is a pig rotors: -57g 4" adapter: -6g Total loss: 408g = .89 lbs = bike is a little over 19lbs (19.1something). So any more modifications and its into 18. That's the goal! |
Could have just gotten a Scott Scale limited. Around 19 pounds for a mere 8500 dollars ;)
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The day Scott sends me bikes for free, I'll be sure to get one ;)
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Originally Posted by ZeCanon
(Post 6706962)
They like to know that I do actually race the thing, so I left the number on.
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Originally Posted by gastro
(Post 6706932)
Does the number plate help when in your aero tuck?
Originally Posted by ZeCanon
They like to know that I do actually race the thing, so I left the number on.
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