Funny story, I actually had my number plate stolen about 10 minutes after the end of my race at Nationals last year. Apparently somebody really needed "26." They just came along and cut the zip ties. I was pretty dumbfounded that anyone would bother :lol: I like to keep my numbers, and I write date/place on the back of them so I kind of wish I still had it, but oh well.

Speaking of which, will you be making the trek to Mt. Snow this summer?

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9707/img9288ts2.jpg

late 80's early 90's gt timberline
setup for daily riding 1x7 exage group
original exage u brake

will post pics of my 92 avalanche team and my 29er soon too

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...9/DSCF1555.jpg

Just took it for a ride today and had a great time! Some trails were closed due to flooding but there were enough open for a fun ride.

I finally have a decent bike to put here.

http://a843.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...20ac8fd162.jpg

Attn:
Cue chain tension on WTP's 20.

Thats from stretch, halflink chains suck. I have a KMC Dropbuster that I still need to install, but I broke my chainbreak.

Oh the irony.

Ah, there we are:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...e/IMG_3130.jpg

Details!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3191/...1ca672afc6.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3238/...b9358ce39b.jpg
my 1992 gt avalanche team edition
full deore group again with the deore u brake with booster plate
gt d3 2x4 forks
gt flip flop stem
mavic 231 to deore hubs from wheelsmith palo alto
cooks brothers cranks with white ti bb

Pedal Force MT XC
http://i25.tinypic.com/314r1i0.jpg
http://i31.tinypic.com/5ueqrt.jpg

Thanks for that -
 

I can´t find "SID´06 SETTING .pdf" all I can find is SERVICE and INSTALL.pdf´s !
CAN you PLEASE -send download link.
(I´ve read that SID´06 don´t use the full 80mm travel ???)
--THANKS - you help´d me a lot --:thumb:
(In Austria not many ride SID,they´re crazy for Fox= cos there more expensive here??(St**d)

Hi bdc88 , Very nice Bike you got !!! :-)
What Wheelset you got there? Are they stiff enough? The tires are good for XC-racing(weight)?
I got 18.25 with Alu-Frame. 100% stiff. I´m not shure upgrade to CARBON-Frame(maybe Simplon-Gravity=Razorblade to expensive). Your Frame is ???

I have a very hard time reading your post, so I dont

English isn't his native language, and he probably does better at English than you or I would do at his native language *laugh*

I just used the SID owners manual from SRAM's service site.
It essentially suggests using half your body weight as a starting pooint for positive pressure, and about 10-20% less for negative pressure, if I recall, and tweaking it from there to your personal preference. Rebound is set using the curb test (one bounce rolling off a normal street curb) and always fill positive chamber before negative. I found flipping the boike upside down to fill or adjust the negative chamber on an SID greatly reduces the oil spraying out of the shock when you check it with a shock pump. otherwise, you get oil everywhere.

The wheelset is off of my 2000 Specialized S-Works FSR-XC. They are Mavic rims with Hugi hubs (re-labeled as Specialized). The wheelset weighs in at 1465g complete so not bad. I have only trued these wheels 2 times since I bought the bike. Very well built and I do not see parting with them any time soon.

The tires are about 460g each and I really like them when paired with the Performance Lunarlites.

The frame is a Pedal Force MT and yes it is very light and very stiff. It climbs like a rocket.

Very nice bdc! That's freakin light!

Few questions:
Why v-brakes?
What seatpost is that? Does it come 31.8x400? Weight?

ZeCanan,

I went with V-brakes because my last build had them and I transferred over the parts. They are still a lot lighter than a disc set up and I can still switch over at any time but for now, v-brakes work just fine.

The seat post is a KCNC 31.6 with a weight of 155g. I can not remember if I cut this down or not but I will take a look when I get a chance and get you the correct length.

The build was a lot of fun especially tuning some of the parts. I am toying with a 12/27 on the rear with a Dura-Ace front and rear derailleur. The front derailleur would work better then the tuned XTR that I am currently running and the rear 12/27 with Dura-Ace would be pretty nice as well. I have really tuned the XTR rear derailleur so it is just as light as a Dura-Ace but I think the Dura-Ace would work just that much better with the 12/27

The 30t front and 27t rear will get me over anything that I ride currently. If I do a race where I need to have a bit more gearing, I have plenty of options with adding stuff on.

The current 44t/30t front and 12/34 rear works amazingly well and I am never in the 32 or 34 so I think a 27 might work.

Still playing around with a few ideas and I should be able to pick up a 9 speed Dura-Ace front and rear derailleur very cheap. I also have most of the parts to tune it down to a ligher weight in stock.

I get as much pleasure building them up and modifying them as I do riding them. Great hobby and a great way to stay in shape.

I don't think a DA front derailleur, even the version for a compact crank, is designed to be able to handle a small ring of 30 teeth, unless you are using a modified Triple version.

Also, I've heard about compatibility issues with Shimano FD/shifter mountain/road combos, but it's usually someone trying to run a mountain bike FD with STI, not the other way around. If you do try it, I'd be very interested to hear if it works or not.

And cool bike!

The only issue with running a Dura-Ace front derailleur is the fact that you are using a bottom pull derailleur where you should be using a top pull. You can get an adaptor to change it over which does not cost very much. There are a lot of guys running a Dura-Ace front derailleur on a 42/29 set up. The main concern is not the 29t or 30t but the jump between the 29/42 or the 30/44 but these fall into the specs that Shimano states. A 13-14t jump is not an issue at all and they state that you can do up to a 16t jump. I have done a 16t just with no issues on compact cranks.

I am also running a 68 X 108 BB on this build so a standard road front derailleur will not be an issue at all.

Supposedly you can run a 10 speed front derailleur with little issues but a 9 speed has just a bit more room in the cage area and since Dura-Ace 9-speed should be cheaper, it will be fine with me.

A couple of mine...

My old school SCSL...
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...KES/scslog.jpg


My New RMB ETSX50...with loads of little changes...
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...KES/ETSX50.jpg

Back to normal.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b2...4/HPIM0469.jpg

Wohnst du in Österreich?
Sprichst du Deutsch?


Ich denke das SID Gebrauch alle 80mm. Entschuldigst du mein Deutsches.

Auch, wir haben chocolate Pfannküchen in Deustchklasse heute gekocht!

I've run the DA before, and I am about to again, with a 42/29 setup. Works great. I use and older 9spd DA.
Don't bother buying an adapter, that just adds weight :) There are lots of instructions out there (check the weightweenies website) for swapping the clamp around to make the derailleur into a top pull. It's pretty easy and works well, provided you have a dremel tool.
I know it's not quite as light, but have you considered a SRAM 11-28 cassette? They have them in 9spd. Still about 60g lighter than xtr but you get that extra tooth. I know I can't ride a 27 with my 29 front here, but a 11-28 I can get away with on some courses.