Hydraulic Disc Brakes vs. Mechanical Disc??
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"fjyang, if you are correct then you're in the wrong business. What you're doing is manufacturing energy out of thin air. You should be manufacturing power with your magic fluid power plant."
The fluid themself don't have magic powers but how you use/applied them might. You pressurized the hydraulic system and purge all the air out so when you pull the lever and that piston forcing all the dense fluid in the line, they have no where to go but forcing all the energy into that little spot in the caliper.
Think of the graden hose as your brake line, the hose is pressurized, and when you pull that sprayer....magic. The water is still water.
The advantage of hydraulic system in mountain biking is not as evident as other applications as the reservior in bikes holds vary little fluid. The problem with hydro's is once you got air in the line, you lose all power.
It might be fun as a experiment to see if someone can invent a pulley system on mech. brakes to increase their power/leverage in a compact size.
The fluid themself don't have magic powers but how you use/applied them might. You pressurized the hydraulic system and purge all the air out so when you pull the lever and that piston forcing all the dense fluid in the line, they have no where to go but forcing all the energy into that little spot in the caliper.
Think of the graden hose as your brake line, the hose is pressurized, and when you pull that sprayer....magic. The water is still water.
The advantage of hydraulic system in mountain biking is not as evident as other applications as the reservior in bikes holds vary little fluid. The problem with hydro's is once you got air in the line, you lose all power.
It might be fun as a experiment to see if someone can invent a pulley system on mech. brakes to increase their power/leverage in a compact size.
Last edited by fjyang; 06-06-07 at 05:38 PM.
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Somebody in a post way back menioned that it's possible to use levers designed for v-brakes with mechanical discs if you use teflon coated cable-housing. Is this true? Would it be annoyingly difficult without teflon coated cable-housing? Anyone tried?
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Originally Posted by fjyang
It might be fun as a experiment to see if someone can invent a pulley system on mech. brakes to increase their power/leverage in a compact size.
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over 1 year without having to bleed and/or adjust the saints in any ways....
how would the mechanicals be doing after a year?
how would the mechanicals be doing after a year?
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I was looking on a thread or info on disc brake primers..
So, I'm to gather, that
mechanical is a little easier to set up and maintain, but perhaps a little more problem prone.
Hydro is harder to set up and maintain, but noticably better on the endurance side.
Repair on the trail is better with a cable vice hydro.
Hydro you can modulate better than cable.
Am I right so far?
So, I'm to gather, that
mechanical is a little easier to set up and maintain, but perhaps a little more problem prone.
Hydro is harder to set up and maintain, but noticably better on the endurance side.
Repair on the trail is better with a cable vice hydro.
Hydro you can modulate better than cable.
Am I right so far?
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um who cares about the brakes as long as they werk
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Originally Posted by dminor
Remember to get mechanical advantage via puleys, you have to pull more cable. There's a physical limit to how much cable a bike brake lever can practically pull.
The levers we use currently actually have far less leverage then those used on the center pull cantilevers. You want more power, put one of those old levers.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
If you do use conventional levers with direct-pull cantilevers [read v-brakes], braking may be too abrupt. The excessive mechanical advantage of this combination will either cause the brake shoes to rub on the rim when they are at rest, or the brake lever will bottom out against the handlebar, depending on the cable adjustment. source: https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Last edited by willtsmith_nwi; 06-07-07 at 12:00 AM.
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The larger the rotor, the more brake swept area (the more material passing through the friction of the pads per rotation). Hydraulics hoses lose effeciency through swelling (since fluids are basically non compressible), cables lose effeciency through stretching and friction. Cables stretch more than hoses swell, therefore the hydraulic has an advantage here. BTW, my power brakes don't use vacuum as a booster, but an electric pump (VW Corrado).
#109
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in the real world...both brakes will stop you just fine...less tinkering with the hydros as they self adjust...more tinkering with the mechs as they do not...alittle more power is needed at the lever for the same stopping power on the mechs...
a good set of v brakes will stop you also
arguing over the difference....is still fun to watch.
*makes popcorn*
a good set of v brakes will stop you also
arguing over the difference....is still fun to watch.
*makes popcorn*
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Originally Posted by mcoine
When are we going to see dual front disc brakes?
A single 9" rotor is also readily available. (but that prob. won't increase stopping power either, eh?)
https://pricepoint.com/detail/14889-115_RDRRT6-3-Parts-158-Brakes/Disc/Red-Raven-9''-Rotor-w_-Adapter-Kit.htm
Last edited by ed; 06-07-07 at 08:42 AM.
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Originally Posted by Minesbroken
in the real world...both brakes will stop you just fine...less tinkering with the hydros as they self adjust...more tinkering with the mechs as they do not...alittle more power is needed at the lever for the same stopping power on the mechs...
a good set of v brakes will stop you also
arguing over the difference....is still fun to watch.
*makes popcorn*
a good set of v brakes will stop you also
arguing over the difference....is still fun to watch.
*makes popcorn*
#113
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Incorrect.
You really should stopping posting this nonsense in case some newb believes you.
You really should stopping posting this nonsense in case some newb believes you.
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#115
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
No, I'm the guy that is warning the newbs about the idiocy that you have been posting.
HTH.
HTH.
#116
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Nope. I've just been correcting the idiocy that you have been posting.
There is no chance that they would, since I have just been pointing out the truth, in contrast to the idiocy that you have been posting.
Thanks, I've done just fine so far sticking to the truth, as opposed to idiocy (like the "information" that you have been posting).
There is no chance that they would, since I have just been pointing out the truth, in contrast to the idiocy that you have been posting.
Thanks, I've done just fine so far sticking to the truth, as opposed to idiocy (like the "information" that you have been posting).
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Since when is the simple truth the same as a "junk response'?
Yes, I know when to stop. That happens right after you stop posting your idiocy. Right now, there's no end in sight.
Why is pointing out the truth "steam rolling"? Especially when your "different opinion" is so very wrong?
Nope, if I'm wrong, I'm wrong and I'll admit it. You, on the other hand, are so confused that you can't even understand why much of the "information" (your "opinion" in other words) that you've posted in this thread is so wrong.
All your base are belong to us!
Yes, I know when to stop. That happens right after you stop posting your idiocy. Right now, there's no end in sight.
Why is pointing out the truth "steam rolling"? Especially when your "different opinion" is so very wrong?
Nope, if I'm wrong, I'm wrong and I'll admit it. You, on the other hand, are so confused that you can't even understand why much of the "information" (your "opinion" in other words) that you've posted in this thread is so wrong.
All your base are belong to us!
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
No, the truth is the truth. What you have written with regards to differences between hydraulic brakes and mechanic brakes is not the truth. It's that simple.
All your base are belong to us!
p.s. Why is it a personal attack when I point out the fact that what you are posting is erroneous?
All your base are belong to us!
p.s. Why is it a personal attack when I point out the fact that what you are posting is erroneous?
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
No, the truth is the truth. What you have written with regards to differences between hydraulic brakes and mechanic brakes is not the truth. It's that simple.
All your base are belong to us!
p.s. Why is it a personal attack when I point out the fact that what you are posting is erroneous?
All your base are belong to us!
p.s. Why is it a personal attack when I point out the fact that what you are posting is erroneous?
Lots of other people have different opnion with you regarding mech. and hydraulic brakes on this thread/forum, why don't you attack all them to? and call all their ideas idiocy too? You got some personal issues with me that I should know about?
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
I prefer mechanicals, specifically the Avid BB7.
I have never been disappointed with the braking power or modulation of these brakes. Smoothness and control are simply functions of lever choice and cable selection.
Pair them up with a decent set of levers (such as the Avid FR-5 which is specifically designed for the Ball Bearing Disc or one of the Speed Dial series for extra tuning options) and a set of Dry Cables and you're golden. However running your stock v-brake levers with teflon lined housing and coated cables will offer adequate performance as well.
In terms of ease of maintenance the Avids are second to NONE. The adjustment knobs give you superior "no tool" tunablilty. As a bonus cable brakes are also easier to work on in terms of "in the field" repairs owing to the fact that you can easily get a replacement cable and / or lever at any Mom and Pop bike shop (heck you could go to K-mart and get parts that would work to get you back on the trail that day.)
Contrary to popular myth, I HAVE seen a hose snagged on a trail. Who wants to mess with brake fluid in the boonies?
I have never been disappointed with the braking power or modulation of these brakes. Smoothness and control are simply functions of lever choice and cable selection.
Pair them up with a decent set of levers (such as the Avid FR-5 which is specifically designed for the Ball Bearing Disc or one of the Speed Dial series for extra tuning options) and a set of Dry Cables and you're golden. However running your stock v-brake levers with teflon lined housing and coated cables will offer adequate performance as well.
In terms of ease of maintenance the Avids are second to NONE. The adjustment knobs give you superior "no tool" tunablilty. As a bonus cable brakes are also easier to work on in terms of "in the field" repairs owing to the fact that you can easily get a replacement cable and / or lever at any Mom and Pop bike shop (heck you could go to K-mart and get parts that would work to get you back on the trail that day.)
Contrary to popular myth, I HAVE seen a hose snagged on a trail. Who wants to mess with brake fluid in the boonies?
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Pete, can you do me a favor and just chill a bit? I haven't read the whole thread, but I've seen enough of these to know what kind of misinformation gets posted. You'll never educate everyone, so maybe it's just best if you give it a rest. If you really need to find something to argue or debate, VC would be a much better place. Thicker skins and all.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#122
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
I have corrected other inaccuracies in this thread.
Why don't you read the thread again?
I don't have any personal issues with you. You're just another confused newbie who doesn't realize how confused he/she is. If you think that this is "attacking" you then you're even more confused than I thought.
Why don't you read the thread again?
I don't have any personal issues with you. You're just another confused newbie who doesn't realize how confused he/she is. If you think that this is "attacking" you then you're even more confused than I thought.
#123
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Yeah, that must be it.
I'm a confused newbie and you have all kinds of riding experience in addition to being well-versed in the differences between hydraulic brake systems and mechanical brake systems.
It's just that most of what you've shared, as corrected above, is wrong.
I'm a confused newbie and you have all kinds of riding experience in addition to being well-versed in the differences between hydraulic brake systems and mechanical brake systems.
It's just that most of what you've shared, as corrected above, is wrong.
I'm not that "low" like you posting threads that have nothing to do with you and just because you join this forum March. 2007 and that make you an expert? People can just see from your pass threads and post that you're just a angry/rude individual looking for fights all over the place.
Please go get laid and lighten up for us would you? That would help a lot in your case.
Last edited by fjyang; 06-07-07 at 11:11 PM.
#124
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Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
No, you have no clue because you made statements like this:
"But to claim that hydrolics and bigger rotors will not provide more braking power and bring you to a complete stop in a shorter distance is simply wrong!"
Do some homework and read the link that I provided to you if you doubt me.
You assume too much.
Then it's obvious that you don't understand "the basic concept" if you think that larger rotors will bring you to a complete stop in a shorter distance.
That is simply not true. Again, do your homework.
Those threads illustrate the fact that you're a newb, and a very confused one at that. They are germane to the discussion.
Join date has nothing to do with expertise and FWIW I have been participating in this forum since 2003.
Grab a tissue already.
Sweet! The ole "you upset me and make me look like a fool so you must need to get laid" fallacy.
What's next? Maybe the ole "you need to go for a ride" fallacy? That's always good for a laugh too.
p.s. TIRES!
"But to claim that hydrolics and bigger rotors will not provide more braking power and bring you to a complete stop in a shorter distance is simply wrong!"
Do some homework and read the link that I provided to you if you doubt me.
You assume too much.
Then it's obvious that you don't understand "the basic concept" if you think that larger rotors will bring you to a complete stop in a shorter distance.
That is simply not true. Again, do your homework.
Those threads illustrate the fact that you're a newb, and a very confused one at that. They are germane to the discussion.
Join date has nothing to do with expertise and FWIW I have been participating in this forum since 2003.
Grab a tissue already.
Sweet! The ole "you upset me and make me look like a fool so you must need to get laid" fallacy.
What's next? Maybe the ole "you need to go for a ride" fallacy? That's always good for a laugh too.
p.s. TIRES!
Wow...you been involved with this forum since 2003....You must be GOD!
I have not ride bikes in 15 years but rode before I stop, then I must be newbie.....that is not fallacy?
What is germane to the discussion is that you're an ass to everyone. When you're ready to drive a car, ride a motorcycle and plane ride, please take a look at whats stopping them. Feel free retrofit your car, motorbike with mechanical brakes...and please put extra extra small rotors on them cause they have nothing to do braking force.
You can live in your mountain bike world.....but the rest of the world have a much bigger physical force to deal with than bicycle. Only in a bicycle forum can this kind of debate exist.
When I told you to get laid, I sincerely mean it. Try it and by tomorrow you'll be writing in much gentler and kinder attitude. Its vary therapeutic.
ps. Please put extra wide tires on your retrofit, the bigger the better
Last edited by fjyang; 06-08-07 at 12:54 AM.
#125
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lol at last 13 posts.. chill out.