Is there a company that makes rotors that don't warp?

well, id imagine that any rotor is prone to warping over time due to climate/heat/condition/maintenance.

I have a pair of Hayes, which i dunno much about brands but after 4 good years of riding and a year of sitting in the elements only the back it a tad warped. just enough to be annoying though.

It is my observation and experience that rotors don't actually warp (which implies deformation due to unequal heating) but instead bend (due to external lateral forces like smashing into rocks).

The Hope Moto V2 rotor is the most bend resistant I know of.

^^ that.

You're going to need a bigger boat, or at least a wider caliper, to be able to run a rotor that wide. Check your manufacturer's specs.

1++ on the Hope.

The rotors I have are the ones that came stock on my Rockhopper. The front is just barely warped and I was able to adjust the caliper so that it doesn't rub at all. The back, not so much. I've tried adjusting the caliper but it is still rubbing just enough to annoy the crap outta me. I haven't had any impacts on the rotors so I don't think that'd be an issue. Could improper bolt tightening sequence warp the rotors? They've rubbed since day one.

Those Hope rotors are fantastic but, I don't think they work with my calipers

Have you tried truing the rotor with a couple adjustable end wrenches?

I agree, can't imagine a rotor warping from a bicycle in the same sense that a rotor on a car would do from heat, wear and rapidly being cooled by hitting a puddle of water. The rotor surfaces might have been uneven like you indicate from the factory and improperly machined when manufactured ? Perhaps unevenly torqued when assembled ?

Anyway, maybe your cable is adjusted to clamp down on the rotor too tightly and need to readjusted, unless they are hydraulic ? That seems to be something I do even with the older style brake pads, my adjustments are for minimal travel to squeeze on the rims. Perhaps the sliders need to be greased so they travel more freely and release. Pads might be unevenly worn. Thank God I avoid high maintenance and more complex systems on bicycles. I don't think I'll ever own a shock absorbing fork or full suspension bike, simply because I don't want to ever replace something that I feel should last a lifetime as rigid fork and hardtail.

Not yet. I'm going riding today, after that I'll dig back into the brakes. The rear rotor is just slightly out of whack, maybe .5mm each way. I think I'm just suffering from being stuck inside and not riding enough. I'll try lubing the caliper slides and then give a gentle "tweak" w/ an adjustable. If that doesn't fix it, no big deal. The front is pretty true and there are no vibrations when I brake. Thanks for the input

[QUOTE=cryptid01;12328973]Have you tried truing the rotor with a couple adjustable end wrenches?[/QUOTE

I use my fingers. Hell, half the time rotors come prewarped and they get straightened during the assembly and adjustment process.,,,,BD

Your hands are a clumsy and greasy tool for this job. Use an adjustable wrench (or a rotor-truing tool, if handy) and the job will be a lot easier. Also, a little goes a long way.

If you have Shimano centerloc-compatible hubs, the new XTR would be an option. I have one on my commuter and it is perfectly true.
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Those Hope Moto V2's compatible with BB7s?