Question
#1
Thread Starter
ME > you
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 239
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From: Hog Heaven
Bikes: Giant VT2 and Kona Shred
I was wondering what, in all your opinions, is a good brake set (Disk) for Dj and Urban, and if 8'' are good for those two things. (I would like 8'' rotors, since they look so friggin' cool). I was looking at the Hayes HFX 9 HD or what ever... maybe the Hayes HFX Mag, but those are allittle pricey. I am looking into the price range from $200-$250. I thought I saw some HFX Mags for $179 for the pair, but that seems alittle cheap...maybe I was day dreaming.
Any way, thanks for your opinions.
EDIT: $200-$250 for both
Any way, thanks for your opinions.
EDIT: $200-$250 for both
Last edited by rios; 10-28-04 at 11:27 PM.
#2
mmm babaghanouj.

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 848
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From: toronto, canada.
Bikes: 2003 norco fluid 3.0, 2016 Intense Tracer 275C Expert
if you can find a pair of hfx-mags then get those over the hfx-nines. less problems...
if you can't find them for cheap though, the nines should be fine with a few little modifications - first of which would be to loc-tite the adjustment screws for the levers so they don't back out on you, causing your brakes to feel really spongy. second would be to put a couple strips of duct tape over the little plastic plug on the master cylinder so that it doesn't come popping out during a run, spilling your brake fluid everywhere. these are the couple of things i've done to my nines and they work just fine.
if you can't find them for cheap though, the nines should be fine with a few little modifications - first of which would be to loc-tite the adjustment screws for the levers so they don't back out on you, causing your brakes to feel really spongy. second would be to put a couple strips of duct tape over the little plastic plug on the master cylinder so that it doesn't come popping out during a run, spilling your brake fluid everywhere. these are the couple of things i've done to my nines and they work just fine.
#3
Time for a change.

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,913
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From: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
Originally Posted by rios
I. (I would like 8'' rotors, since they look so friggin' cool).
EDIT: $200-$250 for both
EDIT: $200-$250 for both
I fitted 8" hope Mono M4's to a Tandem and these are awesome, but for peace of mind, also fitted new forks with the 20mm bolt through axle.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35
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From: Sudbury, Ontario
Bikes: RM Element Race, Kona Stinky, Kona Dawg Primo, Santa Cruz Heckler
If I were you I'd by the HFX Mag from Jensonusa, i think they're 145$ or something. I know it's 40$ over budget, but it's worth it. You should get 8" front and 6" rear. I know it looks cool. But it's not worth it for the rear wheel. How many times have you gone down a hill and said to yourself. Damn this 6" isn't locking enough, I need a 8". That and the 6" is lighter, a little less than a quarter pound.
#7
Thread Starter
ME > you
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 239
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From: Hog Heaven
Bikes: Giant VT2 and Kona Shred
What about 7''. I was just at jenson USA, and saw some Avid Mech's. I don't really want the hassle of hydro's (I heard they can be a pain) so I looked at the avids. I might get 2 7'' or one 8'' and one 6''. I (if I got those) would get the Avid Speed Dial SL ($50 for pair) and the Avid full metal jacket disk cable and housing. (That is all I need right? just levers, the disks and caliber thingy, and the cable and housing?).
All that comes out to about $233 or so.
All that comes out to about $233 or so.
#8
snow
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: Henniker, USA
Bikes: Rootbeer Bullit, stock......soon to be a transgold V10 w/shivers
You dont need the full metal jacket housing, and its a pain to setup anyway. I was going to say, if your running it for urban, id just get the Avid mechs. The Avid Flak jacket are nice, or just the normal Avid housing, dont need anything super. Id recommend the SD7s for levers though....
#10
Campy or bust :p
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,139
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From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey commuter build
I have BB7's with 6" rotors on my bike and it stops like I've hit a brick wall. I'm quite satisfied, I must say. Then again, I'm a lighter rider (130 lbs) and my bike is about average (30 lbs) and probably lighter than some of the DJ bikes around. Still, I'd highly recommend the BB7's. I love mine.
#11
mmm babaghanouj.

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: toronto, canada.
Bikes: 2003 norco fluid 3.0, 2016 Intense Tracer 275C Expert
Originally Posted by rios
What about 7''. I was just at jenson USA, and saw some Avid Mech's. I don't really want the hassle of hydro's (I heard they can be a pain) so I looked at the avids. I might get 2 7'' or one 8'' and one 6''. I (if I got those) would get the Avid Speed Dial SL ($50 for pair) and the Avid full metal jacket disk cable and housing. (That is all I need right? just levers, the disks and caliber thingy, and the cable and housing?).
All that comes out to about $233 or so.
All that comes out to about $233 or so.
i'd take a good set of hydros over mechs any day (although i would like to try out a set of avids just to see what all the hype's about).
#12
snow
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: Henniker, USA
Bikes: Rootbeer Bullit, stock......soon to be a transgold V10 w/shivers
The reason im saying to go with mechs over the hydros for street and DJing is just because of everything that can happen. Also, do you really need hydros for either? My Avids worked better than my friends HFX-9s, had more power too. 45lb bike with a 165lb rider........stopped on a dime, but still had modulation. Ive said this before, but ill say it again. Hydros can kink, or the line can snap......and its expensive for something you dont need. If you DH, or FR where you need precise braking, then I can see it. But, just to have a set of easy mechs that you can repair yourself, dont need a $20 bleed, just a $3 cable, are much easier. DONT get the Hayes mechs though, I had to swap my front Avid for a Hayes, and o my god. I can jam 4 fingers on the break lever, and yank, and barely stop.......takes me about 10 feet. Avids setup right are great brakes.
#13
mmm babaghanouj.

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 848
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From: toronto, canada.
Bikes: 2003 norco fluid 3.0, 2016 Intense Tracer 275C Expert
Originally Posted by DjRider04
DONT get the Hayes mechs though, I had to swap my front Avid for a Hayes, and o my god. I can jam 4 fingers on the break lever, and yank, and barely stop.......takes me about 10 feet. Avids setup right are great brakes.
#15
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Originally Posted by DjRider04
The reason im saying to go with mechs over the hydros for street and DJing is just because of everything that can happen. Also, do you really need hydros for either? My Avids worked better than my friends HFX-9s, had more power too. 45lb bike with a 165lb rider........stopped on a dime, but still had modulation. Ive said this before, but ill say it again. Hydros can kink, or the line can snap......and its expensive for something you dont need. If you DH, or FR where you need precise braking, then I can see it. But, just to have a set of easy mechs that you can repair yourself, dont need a $20 bleed, just a $3 cable, are much easier. DONT get the Hayes mechs though, I had to swap my front Avid for a Hayes, and o my god. I can jam 4 fingers on the break lever, and yank, and barely stop.......takes me about 10 feet. Avids setup right are great brakes.
...Although, if you don't have standard levers you may have to buy them which, at least up here, makes the hfx9's a cheaper purchase.
#16
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Originally Posted by DjRider04
You owe it to yourself to try the Avid mechs.....the only thing Hayes HFX-9s have over them is the hydrolic "feel"
#17
The Man.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 0
From: Sitting
Bikes: Haro Extreme X3 with Hayes Mags and Evil DRS
Mael, still interested in my brakes? Yeah you don't need Hydraulic brakes for DJ/Street. Just overkill. Someone mentioned hopes m4/m6 (don't remember, too lazy to look) Definalty no! Overkill to the third power. I have the Mags and they are much better then the Nines. Get avid mechs. 8" front 6" rear or dual 6". No need for dual 8". I ride DH with 8" front 6" rear. Its enough trust me.
#18
snow
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: Henniker, USA
Bikes: Rootbeer Bullit, stock......soon to be a transgold V10 w/shivers
Coming from somebody that said they wanted to get dual 8''......and the hope mono4s and 6s arent that powerful, they just have really realy really good modulation.
#19
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Originally Posted by FoX Rider
Mael, still interested in my brakes? Yeah you don't need Hydraulic brakes for DJ/Street. Just overkill. Someone mentioned hopes m4/m6 (don't remember, too lazy to look) Definalty no! Overkill to the third power. I have the Mags and they are much better then the Nines. Get avid mechs. 8" front 6" rear or dual 6". No need for dual 8". I ride DH with 8" front 6" rear. Its enough trust me.
#20
For urban/street. Rear rim brakes is a must, along with a brake booster. For street, I guess he may mean something like trials. Disks will rip the tabs off your frame if you back hop. I heard it from trials-online.com. Hell, all the trials pros Ive seen use rear rim brakes with a booster.
Last edited by hooligan; 10-30-04 at 01:00 PM.
#22
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Originally Posted by DjRider04
The reason im saying to go with mechs over the hydros for street and DJing is just because of everything that can happen. Also, do you really need hydros for either? My Avids worked better than my friends HFX-9s, had more power too. 45lb bike with a 165lb rider........stopped on a dime, but still had modulation. Ive said this before, but ill say it again. Hydros can kink, or the line can snap......and its expensive for something you dont need. If you DH, or FR where you need precise braking, then I can see it. But, just to have a set of easy mechs that you can repair yourself, dont need a $20 bleed, just a $3 cable, are much easier. DONT get the Hayes mechs though, I had to swap my front Avid for a Hayes, and o my god. I can jam 4 fingers on the break lever, and yank, and barely stop.......takes me about 10 feet. Avids setup right are great brakes.
#23
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Originally Posted by DjRider04
I dont know why, but in Kranked 5 it looks like Leech is usin discs.
Didn't you know he doesn't do trials...he manifesto's instead
#25
Campy or bust :p
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,139
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From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey commuter build
The original poster never said whether or not he's a heavy rider or not. Chances are, even 6" rotors would do perfectly fine for him as long as he's not 250+. My 6" rotors stop me on a dime, so I'd personally see no reason to go with 8" rotors for myself.






