New bike is here! It's not FG or SS but I'm afraid to leave this thread, so there. Pictures soon...

Thanks to Jet Sanchez for the frame (2 years ago, lawlz), Meghan and Mike at Cycle Therapy for building, and the parts counter folks at Urbane for stem and bars. Honourable mention to Wes who donated some bars that I ended up not using.

Obviously, 10 minutes after leaving the shop I ate it super hard on some streetcar tracks and scratched up my brifters. Balls! Oh well. Newbikenewbikenewbike!

Cool, you still have that frame? I remember you built it up fixed, it will be awesome with gears.

:mad:Streetcars tracks!:mad:

Those 105 caps are replaceable ... actually, Wes might have some if he never replaced the ones on his Lemond ... or I still have them and never gave them to him in the first place. ;)

Glad you like your new bike!

So today was my last day *at* the bike shop ... I'll still be the web guy as needed (I'll announce it when it goes online) and handle customer emails, track down cool parts for jobs, etc. but that'll practically be volunteer work. Now I've got to get a kickass portfolio together for web stuff and pitch that to everyone I know (that includes YOU). Hopefully from that I'll get an interview or two and not be unemployed for too long! Wee-oh-dear-god-I-hope-I-get-hired-somewhere ...

Go team Shapelike!

That's probably a fair guess to replicate the original job with decals for a complete respray.

BTW, I second the idea of having Hugh Black do the repair. He is a metal artist. He converted my titanium MTB frame a few years ago to disc only from the original canti only. The work was superb.

I'm up north in the Ottawa Valley at the moment waiting for my Nagasawa frame to arrive. It should be here tomorrow or Friday at the latest, and buildup should take all of an hour. Lordy, what an awful time trying to find an NJS 27.0mm seatpost in stock in Toronto without having to order and wait a week until I am back there. One shop today as I was leaving the city noticed that Norco supplies the Dura Ace NJS post and had some in stock, so I paid them for the post and drove to Norco on the way out of town. Norco kindly allowed me to pick it up directly from them. What a long day.

Picked up an IRO Angus frame on the way out of town too:p. Scary thing is I have almost enough parts just kicking around my parts bin to build it up too.
I have the coolest integrated flat bar/stem combo (quill type) that was made by someone in Toronto almost 20 years ago. I just remember it cost me a small fortune back then. It looks like it belongs in the IRO. Tarck.

Is the Nagasawa going to be for track racing or street? Either way, Nagasawa == b'dass.

too bad about that Makino, tho...

Yeah... :cry:

I'm gonna give True North a call and get an estimate.

oh man, you nabbed the orange angus up on craigs.. what was with that? it was originally listed at 5 bills firm.. then i saw it relisted in the same day for $350??? nice score.

Ronin, damn, that sucks. Im glad youre looking into saving her though, the soul of a bike is in the frame.

I am almost race ready, but I just ran out of money =(. To offset that, theres an "expensive" mystery road bike coming to me from my bachelor uncle, left over from his health kick days. Depending on drops, its cross time, or track time! (its been stored outside for two winters, ill see what I can salvage)

Yeah, I noticed the relist too and scored it. It's in very nice shape with only a couple of small paint chips, but I'm not fussy on the orange. I'll probably get it powder coated white or something.

The nice thing about steel, though, is that it can always be repaired. The Makino will roll again.

The Nagasawa is going to be mostly for racing, but if I can get a Keirin brake, I will do some street with it. My neighborhood out by the Rouge sees so little traffic that I can easily poke around on it brakeless. Bringing it downtown is another story. I would probably get passed by old ladies on Wal-Mart specials due to my paranoia.

I wouldn't worry about it - just read the OPs comments here http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=456518 and you should be good to go! (lol)

BTW, who are you using for powdercoating? I have a frame which needs a blast and coat, so I called Bush Byers (Jet Kote) and they quoted $75, but 1) they're in the middle of nowhere, and 2) they've messed up people's frames...

igor fest is back on at 35 strachan

I was thinking of Jet Kote, but I hadn't realized they messed some frames up. Having painted frames myself, I can attest to how difficult it is to get even coating without runs or missing spots. Maybe I'll just pick up a litre of PPG Concept and have a go myself in the fall. I think I have primer up here still. As long as you're using a solid colour without metal flake, Concept can be colour sanded and buffed to get rid of mistakes.

That was a funny thread regarding brakes. I think that any extended brakeless riding in the city for me would end with my wife achieving a Zen state with my life insurance settlements.

hey i saw a dude around the core running a 3RENSHI frame which i thought was ultimate badass.

where do peeps find stuff like that in canada? i swear we are infested with.
1. ccm
2. miele
3. bauer

spray + dry + sand 800-1200 grit + clear + wetsand 1800-2200 grit + rubbing compound + polish = win?

If you're using a direct gloss urethane, like Concept, or Imron, the steps are:

-Clean bare metal with degreaser
-Chemically etch the metal with phosphoric acid. This leaves a phosphate coating that the primer loves, giving a chemical bond between metal, primer, and paint instead of relying on a weak mechanical bond that you get from roughing up with sandpaper before spraying.
-Prime with an epoxy primer. PPG's DP series are the best. If you're trying to cover metal imperfections (bad welds, etc.), then urethane sanding primer is used next, followed by more epoxy primer thinned as a sealer
-Spray with colour coat
-Wait a month if no oven available
-Wet sand with 600 or finer, depending on how bad the problem is.
-Wet sand finer and finer until you hit 2000 grit
-compound carefully
-use a polishing compound and then a swirl mark remover
-Wax

If you're a better painter than I and you have a proper booth to paint in, you can usually skip the colour sanding. Urethane sanding primer for filling imperfections, rather than lacquer types are best, as they don't shrink as they dry. Sanding regular high-build primer without letting it sit for several days will result in sanding scratches and surface imperfections that you thought were gone showing right through the colour coat later on as the primer shrinks.

Don't forget forced air breathing apparatus for this stuff, as the hardeners for all urethanes contain isocyanates.

okay i have a problem. dipping into savings to buy camping gear and lights, because i have a race and dont get paid till later... is a problem. im not even on the fast team.

but its like crack, i cant help myself! review of NiteHawk K2 Digital Emitter to come after dark.

(if i cant pay rent, the dude at MEC say its cool to return it if I cry hard enough, hoo-yeah!)

krusty, with that amount of effort, isnt it almost worth paying a pro shop to do it? DIY awesomeness aside.

and there was a sweet whip outside MEC today with speeding tickets as spock cards. who are you, are they real, and if they are, damn son you fast.

I've done 2 DIY bike paint jobs. It's a real PITA if you're not patient. I don't know if I didn't wait enough between coats or the BBQ paint I used was crappy but seriously the paint chipped or spread just by looking at it. I didn't mind since the bike was nothing special.

But for a bike you care more about Marinoni does a decent job for 150$. One week turn around. I can show pics if you want,

Cinelli Vigorelli? If so, that's Zhivago and I'm fairly certain that they are red light infractions which could be taken to mean 'not fast enough' if you catch my drift!

http://www.makergo.com/shutup/images...8/P1030866.jpg

Sweet spoke cards, none the less!

^^ yyep that was the one, its a nice build to boot. and regardless, they do look like speeding tickets, so the cool factor remains ;)

I rigged the NiteHawk to my Bern Baker with relative success, the light seems heavy tho, im not the biggest fan so far, the night test will determine for sure. It may be a buy/race/return deal. Im sketched at renting lights, who knows who used them last or how old they are. Just remind me not to bail into a tree with it on..

Absolutely. It's a horrendous amount of work. The only reason I even contemplate it is that I have the equipment and facilities to do it up north here if necessary, and have done cars, motorcycles, and bikes in the past. I don't have enough experience, however, to be any more than mediocre at it. I never get to skip the colour sanding and compounding.

Paint is also ludicrously expensive to buy. I remember I did my old Honda back before I moved out west in '95. I put over $1000 just in paint products onto it to do it properly. If I didn't already have some of the paints required currently, I wouldn't buy new stock just to do one bike frame.

Keith, the night lap monster, has assured me in the past the light rental is from the light manufacturer and they keep them topped nicely as to make you want to buy them afterwards.

I think a powder coat is the way to go on this frame I have - its an old Miele made out of Tange 900 that I got in rather rusty shape back in December 2007 for $50. I spent a good month getting all the rust off with a Dremel, striping the old paint and re-painting with Rustoleum (which flakes and is crap in general). The only reason I'm considering the powder coat is because the frame fits me and is really comfortable.

I saw this guy in Dukes and around QSW... yeah - not the fastest :P OTOH, no brakes means speed is more likely to kill, so its a toss up...

Naw man , speed thrills, though I do have FISTS FULL OF BRAKES as well. :lol:

They found more bikes?


I have had 4 of frames done at Jet-Kote and haven't had a problem.