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i know none of us exist in north york, but is anyone riding today after 6pm?
i plan to be doing laps around mt pleasant cemetery. or that cemetery around senlac.. sorry there is nothing else scenic where i live.................... at... the.. cemetery.. |
I have a quick question for the mechanics--------how precise does the threading on a fork have to be?
I ask because the threads on my new-to-me Ciocc fork are not far enough down the steer tube for my old frame and I need to extend them by about another inch or so. Can I take the fork in to a shop and have them do it or should I bring the fork and frame? |
I'm going to be running errands and riding around the core after work. First time on my fixed gear since November and it feels fantastic being on 23s after getting used to 38mm Studded Knobbies :)
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Originally Posted by jet sanchEz
(Post 8430039)
I have a quick question for the mechanics--------how precise does the threading on a fork have to be?
I ask because the threads on my new-to-me Ciocc fork are not far enough down the steer tube for my old frame and I need to extend them by about another inch or so. Can I take the fork in to a shop and have them do it or should I bring the fork and frame? if you have the old original fork, take that to the shop and have them match it on your replacement. btw, if they have cut down the steerer, make sure you can install your stem as far in as you need.. cuz sometimes the butting wasn't designed for the shorter steerer and the butting will butt into your stem.. preventing it from being installed at the correct length. |
Great, thanks for the input. I was worried that I would need to not only get the fork thread extended but also get the steerer cut, adding to the cost. But it sounds like I will just have to add some spacers, sweet.
I was wondering why forks are not fully threaded, making them easier to switch around and I never considered that it would weaken the steerer but that makes a lot of sense. |
I would get it cut too. You should be able to get them to cut it to length without bringing the frame in if you provide them with the stack height of the headset and the height of the headtube.
So it's just the top cap, washer and nut ... I had mine setup initially with a spacer between the top cap and the nut and I found that it got loose over time. It also looks a lot better. |
Oh my crash wasnt anything too crazy... I dodged a pot hole (big mofo) and hit the ground before i knew what happened. Got one foot out, but it kinda just bounced off the ground.
I looked at the scene of the bail and there was black ice everywhere. Kinda cool hitting the ground harder then ever before (this includes bailing at ~60km/h on a longboard) and getting up with only a few minor injuries. I still like saying I body slammed the road because it was rude to me... confuses people to no end. |
Originally Posted by shapelike
(Post 8428397)
I officially request the use of a tape measure, possibly even a level and/or plumb bob. ;)
BBH is listed on the Kona site but that figure doesn't help me out too much. Hey Kona, what size tire are you using when taking that measurement? BBD is a lot more useful because then I can figure out saddle height to handlebar drop and get a bit of an idea about the bike's center of gravity. I'm tossing around the idea of a Kona Major Jake instead of a Cannondale. I'm going to be riding with the Cycle Solutions guys this season and if possible I'd like ride one of the shop's brands. |
I believe the phrase is, "fountain of knowledge."
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Any thing I should know/do switching from a mtb casette to a road casette? Both are 8 speed and shimano compatable.
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assuming the teeth are significantly different, you may need to change the length of the chain
and your biggest cog is likely going down so i imagine derailleur capacity isn't an issue |
Originally Posted by pyze-guy
(Post 8433181)
Any thing I should know/do switching from a mtb casette to a road casette? Both are 8 speed and shimano compatable.
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Just be careful you don't activate the flux capacitor and time travel.
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Originally Posted by shapelike
(Post 8432910)
I believe the phrase is, "fountain of knowledge."
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Originally Posted by TRaffic Jammer
(Post 8433396)
Just be careful you don't activate the flux capacitor and time travel.
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Originally Posted by TRaffic Jammer
(Post 8433396)
Just be careful you don't activate the flux capacitor and time travel.
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Originally Posted by cavernmech
(Post 8432703)
2009 54cm Major Jake BB drop is 59 mm. They take all the measurements with the stock tires installed...in this case 35mm Conti Speed King Kevlar.
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alright, i'll start something up: i managed to crack my cross frame at the seat tube. i want to have a cross/touring frame for a commuter. would it be worth it to get it fixed or should i just buy a new frame? anyone have a 58-60 cross frame they want to part with?
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If the frame is aluminum, it will be hard to repair. you can weld aluminum, but not many people can do it well (or so I'm told)
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$120 later I think I have enough bits and pieces (in addition to scavenged parts from the Devinci) to build up the IRO Rob Roy frame I've had sitting around for ages. Tonight: bike building. Hopefully I didn't forget anything!
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No wonder no french guys win the Tour. If I had mountain bike trails like this around I'd never ride on the road
Mountain Biking in the Alps |
Holy crap, that was nuts. And here I thought riding in Toronto traffic took some skill...
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wow
they were really flying -- looks amazing I also wish I could whistle like that guy... |
those guys were fast... anyone up for a trip to france this summer for some DH????
you wanna whistle at that guy? what? |
Originally Posted by ~Stuart~
(Post 8441101)
those guys were fast... anyone up for a trip to france this summer for some DH????
you wanna whistle at that guy? what? |
Originally Posted by iherald
(Post 8437250)
If the frame is aluminum, it will be hard to repair. you can weld aluminum, but not many people can do it well (or so I'm told)
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yo, toronto courier here.
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Pyze can do most anything, he can play and he can sing...
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Originally Posted by jeremywhitehorn
(Post 8443109)
nope, it's steel. 4130 i think. crack just below the seat collar...
Edit: actually, seeing as how the frame is my size it would likely be really hard to fix and really expensive. I'll take it off your hands cheap! :) |
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