Saddle to handlebar drop on my Synapse
07-27-15, 01:29 PM
#1
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Saddle to handlebar reach on my Synapse
I just ride my new Synapse for the first time today.
On my old bike i had 56cm saddle to handlebar reach. (53.5cm top tube with 110mm stem)
I know Synapse is an endurance bike but i had a really good deal and bought it as my first ever carbon bike. I already moved spacers up. With Synapse i have 52cm saddle to handlebar reach. When I move saddle as back as i can (to the max mark on rail) it has 54cm saddle to handlebar reach.
So my question is will i have any issues riding with saddle that back? Should i go for like 120mm -17deg stem?
On my old bike i had 56cm saddle to handlebar reach. (53.5cm top tube with 110mm stem)
I know Synapse is an endurance bike but i had a really good deal and bought it as my first ever carbon bike. I already moved spacers up. With Synapse i have 52cm saddle to handlebar reach. When I move saddle as back as i can (to the max mark on rail) it has 54cm saddle to handlebar reach.
So my question is will i have any issues riding with saddle that back? Should i go for like 120mm -17deg stem?
Last edited by Robius; 07-27-15 at 02:37 PM. Reason: changed drop to reach
07-27-15, 01:53 PM
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Not quite sure I understand, but...
DON'T use the saddle position to dial in the effective top tube/reach. Set the saddle where you need it (for/aft, height) based on the relationship to the pedals/BB.
After that is done...then get the reach dialed in. Yes, maybe a longer stem with different angle. Also, that 25mm cone-shaped headset upper bearing cover can be replaced to lower your hands even more.
DON'T use the saddle position to dial in the effective top tube/reach. Set the saddle where you need it (for/aft, height) based on the relationship to the pedals/BB.
After that is done...then get the reach dialed in. Yes, maybe a longer stem with different angle. Also, that 25mm cone-shaped headset upper bearing cover can be replaced to lower your hands even more.
__________________
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
07-27-15, 01:56 PM
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First you are talking about reach, not drop. Drop is vertical, reach is horizontal.
Second saddle position is absolutely independent of anything else. You must set it first and properly, before you consider adjusting the handlebar position either reach or drop. You never move the saddle to effect a desired reach or drop, only to get your legs in the proper position and orientation relative to the pedals. Once you have that right, you don't move the saddle. You only change reach and drop by the length and angle of the stem, the number of spacers below the stem, and the dimensions of the bar (the bar's own reach and drop). Keep in mind there are multiple reaches and drops: to the bar tops, to the hoods, to the hooks, and to the bar drops.
Second saddle position is absolutely independent of anything else. You must set it first and properly, before you consider adjusting the handlebar position either reach or drop. You never move the saddle to effect a desired reach or drop, only to get your legs in the proper position and orientation relative to the pedals. Once you have that right, you don't move the saddle. You only change reach and drop by the length and angle of the stem, the number of spacers below the stem, and the dimensions of the bar (the bar's own reach and drop). Keep in mind there are multiple reaches and drops: to the bar tops, to the hoods, to the hooks, and to the bar drops.
07-27-15, 02:00 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Well i'm talking about this: 
(till the center of stem)
I see thank you. I'm moving back my saddle to it's normal position. Should i replace whole headset or is that cover is replaceable? I read somewhere that 25mm cover can not be replaced because it's a semi integrated headset. But i didn't actually touch it yet.
Not quite sure I understand, but...
DON'T use the saddle position to dial in the effective top tube/reach. Set the saddle where you need it (for/aft, height) based on the relationship to the pedals/BB.
After that is done...then get the reach dialed in. Yes, maybe a longer stem with different angle. Also, that 25mm cone-shaped headset upper bearing cover can be replaced to lower your hands even more.
DON'T use the saddle position to dial in the effective top tube/reach. Set the saddle where you need it (for/aft, height) based on the relationship to the pedals/BB.
After that is done...then get the reach dialed in. Yes, maybe a longer stem with different angle. Also, that 25mm cone-shaped headset upper bearing cover can be replaced to lower your hands even more.
07-27-15, 02:03 PM
#6
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True, it's part of the headset - not just another spacer. My Cannondale dealer ordered a 5mm version of that cover (pretty cheap; like $10 plus shipping).
__________________
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
07-27-15, 02:08 PM
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07-27-15, 02:16 PM
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07-27-15, 02:16 PM
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OP, what you are measuring is too complex to have any significance. It is neither reach nor drop, but a composite of the two. Normally you want to keep the two measurements separate.
Here is how you do that: first place the bike with tires properly inflated and the rear tire perpendicular to a wall and perfectly upright. If you don't have a trainer stand to help you with this, you may need a live assistant. Make sure the front wheel is perfectly aligned with the rear wheels and straight. Now measure six things:
A. Distance horizontally from the wall to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
B. Distance horizontally from the wall to the back of the handlebar center.
C. Distance horizontally from the wall to the front tip of the saddle.
D. Distance vertically from the floor to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
E. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the handlebar center.
F. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the saddle nose.
Then saddle to bar reach is the horizontal difference from the front tip of the saddle to the back of the bar or E-C.
Saddle to bar drop is the vertical difference between the top front of the saddle to the top of the bar or F-B.
The other measurements can be similarly used to define your saddle position for duplicating it on other bikes or in case you make a change that you want to quantify or undo.
Here is how you do that: first place the bike with tires properly inflated and the rear tire perpendicular to a wall and perfectly upright. If you don't have a trainer stand to help you with this, you may need a live assistant. Make sure the front wheel is perfectly aligned with the rear wheels and straight. Now measure six things:
A. Distance horizontally from the wall to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
B. Distance horizontally from the wall to the back of the handlebar center.
C. Distance horizontally from the wall to the front tip of the saddle.
D. Distance vertically from the floor to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
E. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the handlebar center.
F. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the saddle nose.
Then saddle to bar reach is the horizontal difference from the front tip of the saddle to the back of the bar or E-C.
Saddle to bar drop is the vertical difference between the top front of the saddle to the top of the bar or F-B.
The other measurements can be similarly used to define your saddle position for duplicating it on other bikes or in case you make a change that you want to quantify or undo.
07-27-15, 02:19 PM
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Thank you dtrain. I guess you are talking about this? Cannondale Road Headset 5mm Top Bearing Cover, KP253 : CannondaleSpares.com
__________________
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
Last edited by dtrain; 07-27-15 at 02:22 PM.
07-27-15, 02:35 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
OP, what you are measuring is too complex to have any significance. It is neither reach nor drop, but a composite of the two. Normally you want to keep the two measurements separate.
Here is how you do that: first place the bike with tires properly inflated and the rear tire perpendicular to a wall and perfectly upright. If you don't have a trainer stand to help you with this, you may need a live assistant. Make sure the front wheel is perfectly aligned with the rear wheels and straight. Now measure six things:
A. Distance horizontally from the wall to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
B. Distance horizontally from the wall to the back of the handlebar center.
C. Distance horizontally from the wall to the front tip of the saddle.
D. Distance vertically from the floor to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
E. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the handlebar center.
F. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the saddle nose.
Then saddle to bar reach is the horizontal difference from the front tip of the saddle to the back of the bar or E-C.
Saddle to bar drop is the vertical difference between the top front of the saddle to the top of the bar or F-B.
The other measurements can be similarly used to define your saddle position for duplicating it on other bikes or in case you make a change that you want to quantify or undo.
Here is how you do that: first place the bike with tires properly inflated and the rear tire perpendicular to a wall and perfectly upright. If you don't have a trainer stand to help you with this, you may need a live assistant. Make sure the front wheel is perfectly aligned with the rear wheels and straight. Now measure six things:
A. Distance horizontally from the wall to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
B. Distance horizontally from the wall to the back of the handlebar center.
C. Distance horizontally from the wall to the front tip of the saddle.
D. Distance vertically from the floor to the center of the bottom bracket spindle.
E. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the handlebar center.
F. Distance vertically from the floor to the top of the saddle nose.
Then saddle to bar reach is the horizontal difference from the front tip of the saddle to the back of the bar or E-C.
Saddle to bar drop is the vertical difference between the top front of the saddle to the top of the bar or F-B.
The other measurements can be similarly used to define your saddle position for duplicating it on other bikes or in case you make a change that you want to quantify or undo.
07-27-15, 02:42 PM
#12
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Doing it this way uses the wall and the floor to establish vertical and horizontal. You don't need to use any levels to get things right. It is automatic. Actually simpler than it sounds.
07-27-15, 02:49 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
I see what you mean Wilfred. But bike actually fits me it's just that i want a little bit more aero position like my old bike. Maybe i will get used to that upright position as that was just my first ride.
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