What is the right hand position on the hoods?
#1
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What is the right hand position on the hoods?
I recently started getting upper neck and upper shoulder pain on my bike but it always only effects my left side. I did become aware that I keep a very tight grip while on the hoods and I'm trying to learn to relax my hand position.
1. How tight or loose should my grip be while in the hoods?
2. Should my hands grip the hood completely leaving no space between my hand and the rubber of the hood or should my hands be tilted outside a bit to kinda abosrb shock more?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
1. How tight or loose should my grip be while in the hoods?
2. Should my hands grip the hood completely leaving no space between my hand and the rubber of the hood or should my hands be tilted outside a bit to kinda abosrb shock more?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
#3
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#4
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Your grip should be firm enough that an unexpected pothole or rock doesn't knock your hand off the brifter. But that should be only the tensing of muscles in your hands, not wrists and forearms. The rest of your arms should be relaxed, even loose (so say another rider bumps your elbow - it would then be no big deal).
There is no magic re: space between your hands and the brifter. Find the best, secure and relaxed positions (plural). And change them often. Also ride the drops. Wind at your back? Sit up and ride the tops. The great thing about dropped handlebars with brifters/brakes on them is that you have so many choices on where to place your hands. The different choices offer more and less secure handholds, elbows in for minimum air resistance, elbows out for maximum breathing and power, etc. Gert to know them all. Observe what other riders do. But above all, find what works for you.
Ben
There is no magic re: space between your hands and the brifter. Find the best, secure and relaxed positions (plural). And change them often. Also ride the drops. Wind at your back? Sit up and ride the tops. The great thing about dropped handlebars with brifters/brakes on them is that you have so many choices on where to place your hands. The different choices offer more and less secure handholds, elbows in for minimum air resistance, elbows out for maximum breathing and power, etc. Gert to know them all. Observe what other riders do. But above all, find what works for you.
Ben
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Your grip should be firm enough that an unexpected pothole or rock doesn't knock your hand off the brifter. But that should be only the tensing of muscles in your hands, not wrists and forearms. The rest of your arms should be relaxed, even loose (so say another rider bumps your elbow - it would then be no big deal).
There is no magic re: space between your hands and the brifter. Find the best, secure and relaxed positions (plural). And change them often. Also ride the drops. Wind at your back? Sit up and ride the tops. The great thing about dropped handlebars with brifters/brakes on them is that you have so many choices on where to place your hands. The different choices offer more and less secure handholds, elbows in for minimum air resistance, elbows out for maximum breathing and power, etc. Gert to know them all. Observe what other riders do. But above all, find what works for you.
Ben
There is no magic re: space between your hands and the brifter. Find the best, secure and relaxed positions (plural). And change them often. Also ride the drops. Wind at your back? Sit up and ride the tops. The great thing about dropped handlebars with brifters/brakes on them is that you have so many choices on where to place your hands. The different choices offer more and less secure handholds, elbows in for minimum air resistance, elbows out for maximum breathing and power, etc. Gert to know them all. Observe what other riders do. But above all, find what works for you.
Ben
#6
I usually position my right hand similarly to the left hand, but not always. 
Overall, it will depend a bit on where, how, and with whom you're riding. In the city, I'm usually close to the brakes. Out of town, a bit less so. And, in a group of cyclists, also on the brakes.
I don't think I've ever had the bars ripped out of my grip. But, I can change grips or grab the brakes as fast as I can react to a situation.
Sometimes I'll just ride with 1 or 2 fingers, or perhaps the finger webs on the tops of the bars. Sometimes I'll use my aero position, grabbing the top of knobs on top of the brake levers, and lightly rest the arms on the top of the bars. This actually seems to be the easiest on the elbows.
Overall, it will depend a bit on where, how, and with whom you're riding. In the city, I'm usually close to the brakes. Out of town, a bit less so. And, in a group of cyclists, also on the brakes.
I don't think I've ever had the bars ripped out of my grip. But, I can change grips or grab the brakes as fast as I can react to a situation.
Sometimes I'll just ride with 1 or 2 fingers, or perhaps the finger webs on the tops of the bars. Sometimes I'll use my aero position, grabbing the top of knobs on top of the brake levers, and lightly rest the arms on the top of the bars. This actually seems to be the easiest on the elbows.
#7
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#8
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Loosey-goosey. We teach our juniors to keep everything bent and loose. Hands, wrists, elbows, shoulders, neck, waist.
#9
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There absolutely is a correct way, and lots of incorrect ways to hold the hoods. Its all in the wrists.
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
#11
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#12
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There absolutely is a correct way, and lots of incorrect ways to hold the hoods. Its all in the wrists.
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
You want your bars positioned so that your wrist isn't bent unnaturally while in the drops. That does look correct in the pic.
#14
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My point is that the wrists should be neutral, that's all.
It's like a bridge or a house. You can't get a level, stable structure if the foundations and supports are not correct.
It's like a bridge or a house. You can't get a level, stable structure if the foundations and supports are not correct.
#15
There absolutely is a correct way, and lots of incorrect ways to hold the hoods. Its all in the wrists.
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
I disagree.
In practice, having the wrists straight like this promotes straight arms, locked shoulders, and pressure on the nerve in the palm.
Better to roll the wrists inward, draping the hands over the bar/hood, which flexes the arms, lowers the torso, drops the shoulders, & puts the bar contact more on the meaty heel of the hand.
Try it both ways & see.
Agree that hoods too low isn't good, although people managed BITD.
Last edited by woodcraft; 12-01-15 at 12:47 AM.
#16
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There absolutely is a correct way, and lots of incorrect ways to hold the hoods. Its all in the wrists.
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
Hoods too low means you have to move your wrists into ulnar deviation which can result in locked elbows/shrugged shoulders and cause neck and shoulder pain.
Your wrist should be neutral - not flexed or extended. Extended wrists (hands bent back) can be caused by bars which are too wide or a frame/stem too long.
The wrist in this picture is correct...

Bike fit can typically fix most issues but sometimes it is a matter of form. I flexed my wrists a lot when I got my first real road bike and had to just work on proper form. Eventually it became second nature.
Bike and Body: Have neck and shoulder pain on the bike?
Wrist Movements
Now that brakes run the cables under the tape, I often drape my forearms over the bars, palms over the tops of the hoods. My wrists are as straight as in your photo. This is the most aero position on my bikes and also quite comfortable. (I fantasized about having between my middle and ring fingers surgically cut so I could get that position with the old brake cables. On my long rides as a racer in the '70s, I had lots of time to think!
) OP, I am not suggesting for a minute you should follow my habits. Find what works for you. But I am NOT a fan of "loosey-goosey" when it comes to grip. Crashes cost way too much. Far better to invest a little effort into holding onto those bars. (On a prepped TT course, that loose grip is fine, but on someone's wheel, behind a car or anytime your attention isn't focused on the pavement ahead, no. The crashes we are talking often involve broken bones. Broken bones mean loss of training. The firm grip is a habit you will not regret.)
Ben
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#18
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It may also help to not that the shape/style of your hoods may dictate adjustments...so while I see some riders take a ball-claw approach covering the whole good, I can't do exactly the same thing because my Sora shift cables come out the side of my shifters, dictating a different finger position.
#19
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Let me offer a bit of practical advice, outside of the discussion of how to position your brakes on the bar.
On any bicycle where you need to lean forward, you should use primarily your stomach and back muscles to hold yourself in place. When you do this, you can take the weight off your wrists. Next time you're in the bike, stay in your normal riding position, but consciously feel what happens when you lift your hands from the hoods. You'll feel your stomach and back muscles go to work. That's what you want to use to keep yourself loose and comfortable.
On any bicycle where you need to lean forward, you should use primarily your stomach and back muscles to hold yourself in place. When you do this, you can take the weight off your wrists. Next time you're in the bike, stay in your normal riding position, but consciously feel what happens when you lift your hands from the hoods. You'll feel your stomach and back muscles go to work. That's what you want to use to keep yourself loose and comfortable.
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#21
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Let me offer a bit of practical advice, outside of the discussion of how to position your brakes on the bar.
On any bicycle where you need to lean forward, you should use primarily your stomach and back muscles to hold yourself in place. When you do this, you can take the weight off your wrists. Next time you're in the bike, stay in your normal riding position, but consciously feel what happens when you lift your hands from the hoods. You'll feel your stomach and back muscles go to work. That's what you want to use to keep yourself loose and comfortable.
On any bicycle where you need to lean forward, you should use primarily your stomach and back muscles to hold yourself in place. When you do this, you can take the weight off your wrists. Next time you're in the bike, stay in your normal riding position, but consciously feel what happens when you lift your hands from the hoods. You'll feel your stomach and back muscles go to work. That's what you want to use to keep yourself loose and comfortable.
Sean
#22
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Hoods too low as in bars set too low? I would think if anything bars have got lower in recent years.
Or do you mean hoods set low on the bars, as with Sean Yates here;

For some reason he always seemed to have his bars pointed down. A lot of riders back then would have the hoods set barely above the midpoint of the curve of the bar. Riding on those hoods for prolonged periods would be uncomfortable, but then, back in those days whenever someone was really hammering, they were on the drops.
Or do you mean hoods set low on the bars, as with Sean Yates here;

For some reason he always seemed to have his bars pointed down. A lot of riders back then would have the hoods set barely above the midpoint of the curve of the bar. Riding on those hoods for prolonged periods would be uncomfortable, but then, back in those days whenever someone was really hammering, they were on the drops.
#24
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Hoods too low as in bars set too low? I would think if anything bars have got lower in recent years.
Or do you mean hoods set low on the bars, as with Sean Yates here;

For some reason he always seemed to have his bars pointed down. A lot of riders back then would have the hoods set barely above the midpoint of the curve of the bar. Riding on those hoods for prolonged periods would be uncomfortable, but then, back in those days whenever someone was really hammering, they were on the drops.
Or do you mean hoods set low on the bars, as with Sean Yates here;

For some reason he always seemed to have his bars pointed down. A lot of riders back then would have the hoods set barely above the midpoint of the curve of the bar. Riding on those hoods for prolonged periods would be uncomfortable, but then, back in those days whenever someone was really hammering, they were on the drops.
and that's is his favorite reach to the brake levers.. Next time you see Him , Ask.






